Build The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota

Member Build Threads

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Finally tore into the 40’s busted brake and steering knuckle. Not far, took ages for my new hire to get the truck up on jackstands.

6777C610-1AF7-418B-829C-AB0AF48F2F96.jpeg


The damage is pretty substantial. The caliper is cracked right at a bolt hole, and you can see where the rotor was machining it’s way through the bottom.

CD256823-8E12-4C98-9FFC-450925CB3D4E.jpeg


EBF0D18B-FA9F-4297-AEB7-79131685191C.jpeg


So that will need to be replaced.

The rotor has a nice groove around the outer edge. In all likelihood it Is probably fine but since I need to pull the hub to fix the stripped knuckle it’s a relatively minor lift to just press the wheel studs out and replace it.

Naturally, the cost of the same (matching) rotor has gone from $44 4-5 years ago to $70 today…


32229B70-E03D-4731-8241-18E16B1C0010.jpeg
 
Rick that Rotor looks pretty good. I would check the specs and probably just get a shop to turn it a little. I can't remember what the minimum thickness is. It should have the number on it. Too much snow for me to go check one of my spares right now. 5 inches and climbing.
 
i'd keep it for a spare, but if you are pulling the hub for bearings anyway, it's not that much more of a thing to just replace it then.
 
i'd keep it for a spare, but if you are pulling the hub for bearings anyway, it's not that much more of a thing to just replace it then.

Sort of what I’m thinking. I’m sure I could run it without issue it’s like 2% of the contact surface but if I’ve gotta tear the whole thing down anyway, and I’ve got a press to knock out the studs it isn’t a huge hill to climb. I should probably throw a new hub seal in it too while I’m in there… I honestly don’t even know of a shop that turns rotors so I’d have to do some hunting around.
 
NAPA has those rotors for a decent price. I was happy with the quality… my only complaint is someone decided there’s no difference between the ‘76 rotors I needed and the 78+ rotor they sell. Wouldn’t matter to you since yours is secured by the studs. For mine, I had to drill 4 new holes through the flange so I’d have the six holes to mount it to my +/- 76 hub.

19 mm is spec for minimum thickness. The pads likely don’t even touch the worn away part… my first/current set of rear rotors have several grooves as deep as that across their width. It hasn’t made a significant difference and has done great on several skid pad tests.

I get the 10,000 house projects, and other commitments getting in the way. My P/S conversion is 99% finished after collecting parts for 10 years and working on it for more than a year in my nonexistent spare time.
 
Last edited:
NAPA has those rotors for a decent price. I was happy with the quality… my only complaint is someone decided there’s no difference between the ‘76 rotors I needed and the 78+ rotor they sell. Wouldn’t matter to you since yours is secured by the studs. For mine, I had to drill 4 new holes through the flange so I’d have the six holes to mount it to my +/- 76 hub.

19 mm is spec for minimum thickness. The pads likely don’t even touch the worn away part… my first/current set of rear rotors have several grooves as deep as that across their width. It hasn’t made a significant difference and has done great on several skid pad tests.

I get the 10,000 house projects, and other commitments getting in the way. My P/S conversion is 99% finished after collecting parts for 10 years and working on it for more than a year in my nonexistent spare time.
Several years ago those rotors were $44 (I think total, for the pair) at NAPA - same part number is now $70 a piece. I’ve heard there are supply chain issues around brake rotors currently. Rock Auto has similar for $23… but then I’d be running potentially mismatched(quality) rotors and even if that’s not a big deal I would mess with my OCD.

I agree, the pad may not even contact the rotor at that point (need to look at the other side) and I may wind up just running it if it doesn’t turn out to be badly warped.

It has been especially troublesome getting anything done lately. Two kids (7months and 3 years) makes it challenging, but we’ve also had the kids home from daycare for 42 straight days (I caught covid, gave Covid to the 7 month old, then right when we were cleared to send them back to daycare, the daycare had a Covid outbreak, and shut down through the holidays. We were sending the kids back today, and had our first snow of the year and they closed due to weather… so any spare moment I have had has been spent trying to play catch up with my job. Super frustrating!
 
Last edited:
Not sure - these are 60 series rotors so I know they match early mini trucks. Not sure about 4Runner.
I'm thinking that I read somewhere here that the 4runner calipers and discs work and are an upgrade over the 60 series brakes.

FWIW, I run the 60 series stuff and have no complaints.

Just wondering if a different option might be more cost effective or easier to find.
 
Several years ago those rotors were $44 (I think total, for the pair) at NAPA - same part number is now $70 a piece. I’ve heard there are supply chain issues around brake rotors currently. Rock Auto has similar for $23… but then I’d be running potentially mismatched(quality) rotors and even if that’s not a big deal I would mess with my OCD.

I agree, the pad may not even contact the rotor at that point (need to look at the other side) and I may wind up just running it if it doesn’t turn out to be badly warped.

It has been especially troublesome getting anything done lately. Two kids (7months and 3 years) makes it challenging, but we’ve also had the kids home from daycare for 42 straight days (I caught covid, gave Covid to the 7 month old, then right when we were cleared to send them back to daycare, the daycare had a Covid outbreak, and shut down through the holidays. We were sending the kids back today, and had our first snow of the year and they closed due to weather… so any spare moment I have had has been spent trying to play catch up with my job. Super frustrating!
Hang in there, you are going to blink and the babies will be 14 and 11. Even 10 minutes of wrenching puts you ahead.
 
I'm thinking that I read somewhere here that the 4runner calipers and discs work and are an upgrade over the 60 series brakes.

FWIW, I run the 60 series stuff and have no complaints.

Just wondering if a different option might be more cost effective or easier to find.

This is true... I upgraded to the 4Runner calipers and rotors on my FJ75.
 
Early had solid rotors. Later vented with 4 pistons of even size I believe. Considered an upgrade over 40 callipers if the master will handle them.

That said, at 30 mph I can stab the brake pedal with two fingers and lock all 4 wheels on dry pavement… I need an upgrade? Why?
 
I'm thinking that I read somewhere here that the 4runner calipers and discs work and are an upgrade over the 60 series brakes.

FWIW, I run the 60 series stuff and have no complaints.

Just wondering if a different option might be more cost effective or easier to find.
Yeah, just moving to 60 series discs (over my original drums) was a huge upgrade. I didn’t even bother with the 80 series master cylinder - just stuck to a 60 series master, caliper, and vented rotors. I have Monte Carlo discs in the rear as well. I can basically stand the truck on its nose if I need to.
Hang in there, you are going to blink and the babies will be 14 and 11. Even 10 minutes of wrenching puts you ahead.
I love every minute of having the kids around but with the wife and I juggling full time jobs and keeping the kiddos entertained (while also trying to keep the house from falling down) it has been pretty stressful. I don’t want to miss a minute with the kids but I sure miss doing stuff I (personally) enjoy. I know the day will come around again when I can.
 
Didn’t get as much snow as anticipated today but the kids still had some fun. At least Avery did, poor Connor couldn’t move in his snow suit and was not a fan.


Back to cruisers shortly but just needed to reiterate I really do like having these kids around!
FBD78CF6-F097-4292-AC6A-98C06E4E36AD.jpeg


B19F6C5A-FD12-4707-BA5F-B309F0E55744.jpeg
 
Yeah, just moving to 60 series discs (over my original drums) was a huge upgrade. I didn’t even bother with the 80 series master cylinder - just stuck to a 60 series master, caliper, and vented rotors. I have Monte Carlo discs in the rear as well. I can basically stand the truck on its nose if I need to.

I love every minute of having the kids around but with the wife and I juggling full time jobs and keeping the kiddos entertained (while also trying to keep the house from falling down) it has been pretty stressful. I don’t want to miss a minute with the kids but I sure miss doing stuff I (personally) enjoy. I know the day will come around again when I can.
It will become more of a mental game and less physical, you definitely need to carve out some time that’s just for you and just you and the wife together. I have been full time with the kids for the last 13 years, I now part time with our resto shop and some times with a consulting startup. I like the resto work because i can see what i’ve accomplished. We are to the point that we can grab dinner alone and not worry too much about the kids burning the house down. My oldest is Avery as well.
 
What are everyone's thoughts on replacing the hub seals "while I'm in there?" Since they largely just hold thick bearing grease, it feels like overkill but I know lots of folks say they can only be slid on and off the birfield so many times...
 
Realistically 5-6 years, but probably 3000 mile tops
Depends on how long it’ll be before you’re on there again. Id probably leave them.

Mine however, have been about 30 years and 100k miles… they are probably due. ;)
 
Back
Top Bottom