Splangy's 1981 FJ40 Restoration Thread

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Finally done with painting the rest of this stuff! Thank god! Here's a shot of the homemade tailgate and an amby door:

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Splangy said:
I lost the little fuel door lock catch thing! Anybody have one from a 1979-1984 40 series? It's the little part that the fuel door lock catches onto.

Thanks!
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if you get stuck, ring my wrecker friends here. They have 5 or 6 of them in the rigs and they could chuck it in an envelope to get to you in no time (they are the same LHD and RHD). their number is +61 8 8359 4499 and ask for Rodney.

Cheers,

Josh
 
Pot O' Gold!

Was busy the last few nights plating some bolts for the hardtop, amby doors, and other little stuff. It's amazing how many beers you can go through plating this many parts! :D

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duffontap said:
Good grief! Any idea how many hours that represents?
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I was only counting beers, not hours. :D

The plating takes about 15 minutes per batch of about 15 or so bolts, but you don't have to stand there and watch it the whole time. I was sandblasting and painting some other parts while those were plating.
 
everytime I run to the cad guys and spend alots driving
where do you get the prosses and machine!!
Splangy said:
I was only counting beers, not hours. :D

The plating takes about 15 minutes per batch of about 15 or so bolts, but you don't have to stand there and watch it the whole time. I was sandblasting and painting some other parts while those were plating.
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Hey Splangy, is it neccessary to use the Copy-Cad zinc phosphate procedure prior to the Yellow Dichromate process?

I've been studying this Caswell system and a little unclear.

What about simply treating blasted bolts with Ospho then the Yellow Dichromate process?

I would guess plating the metal with Zinc is better, but is it really neccessary?

The Copy-Cad system is expensive especially if you have to buy a power supply unit they sell.
 
Yeah, you need to plate them in zinc first. The zinc acts as a sacrificial coating that will eventually corrode away, leaving bare steel and then rust. The yellow dichromate will react with the zinc and slow down that sacrificial corrosion reaction, making it last much longer.

So, you need both to make a proper coating. The dichromate solution will do nothing to bare steel, and bare zinc plating will react very quickly. They also make a clear dichromate solution for plating parts with that bright shiny silver zinc look.



KY Longhunter said:
Hey Splangy, is it neccessary to use the Copy-Cad zinc phosphate procedure prior to the Yellow Dichromate process?

I've been studying this Caswell system and a little unclear.

What about simply treating blasted bolts with Ospho then the Yellow Dichromate process?

I would guess plating the metal with Zinc is better, but is it really neccessary?

The Copy-Cad system is expensive especially if you have to buy a power supply unit they sell.
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So I got a great deal on a 3B and H55f last summer. One of the perks of living in NH is that it's only a couple hours from our neighbors to the north. Our neighbors with diesels and 5 speeds! I've spent the last year collecting parts, rebuilding the h55f and split case, and freshening up the engine. The engine had great compression when I did a cold test on it and every bearing cap I pulled revealed mint bearings. I replaced just about every external gasket and seal, replated a bunch of stuff, and gave it a fresh coat of paint.


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Some of you may notice something special about the H55f. I found that cover from a fellow mud member on a recent trip to Nova Scotia. I also scored a split-case PTO box and will be exploring ways to mount a factory PTO winch on here. Now I just need to find a winch and driveshaft. I have one from one of the 1962's but the 1962 resto is getting that one.



The last piece I need is a BJ42 fan shroud! Who's got one? I should be starting the swap in the next week or two and will need one soon.

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Very nice. Where do you source the 3B parts and gaskets?
 
thetoyotaman said:
Very nice. Where do you source the 3B parts and gaskets?
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I'm only a couple hours from Canada, so parts are t hard to find around here. I get new parts from the usual sources: dealership, eBay, mud, etc...


Dropped off my driveshaft with the local shop on Wednesday and got them back last night. Had the front shortened and the rear retubed longer.

But wait, Jeff, you need a longer front driveshaft and a shorter rear. Aha, I do now! The rear shafts on these late mod 40's have a bottleneck tube on them, making it necessary to retube or build up the end and turn down on a lathe to shorten it. So, since I needed one retubed longer anyways, I decided to stretch the rear and shorten he front and swap them out. The yoke from he old front shaft is probably in better condition, anyways.


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Now I just need to get someone over here to help me pull out the 2F, find the right spot for the 3B mounts, and drop it in. The 2F is all unbolted and ready to pull.
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