Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Is it really necessary to remove all the factory sound deadening on the floor before putting down new sound deadening like Kilmat or similar?
Sound insulation ??? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Box Rocket
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No
If it's sound, not loose you can leave it.
The more layers you add to the floor etc though, the more of an impact it will have on fit and finish of carpets, trim panels, seats etc
If it's sound, not loose you can leave it.
The more layers you add to the floor etc though, the more of an impact it will have on fit and finish of carpets, trim panels, seats etc
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #3
Thats kinda what I figured, but I see many people that use dry ice to remove the original sound deadening material and wasn't sure how necessary that was. Like if the seat bolts were no longer long enough to bolt seats down if there was a layer on top of the old stuff.
bpenn1980
SILVER Star
Last year I put the sound deadener, some adhesive foam, and then covered it all with some reflective heat shield stuff. Seats still fit (though it was a little tight) and I left the factory deadener in place. And my wife doesnt get the heat from the cats nearly as bad anymore.
Unrelated to your question but from all my research on this topic the best bang for your buck in regards to sound deadening is in the doors and wheels wells. There is a massive thread on it, sorry I'm on my phone otherwise I would link it for you..
brettk
SILVER Star
You can leave the jute attached to the carpet, but you want a good clean surface for the butyl to stick to on the metal.
True, but floor is low hanging fruit. And it makes a big difference to heat and sound transmission by itself.
The floor has a lot of shape and structure to it so you get less resonance from the panels vibrating.
But, a lot of heat, noise, vibration originates under the floor.
If you're sound insulating other areas, it makes no sense to leave the floor.
The thing that stops noise is heavy mass, but not a solid. (factory deadener, dynamat etc) and something to absorb and disrupt sound waves. (Wavebar (layered vinyl mat), high density EVA foam etc)
To stop heat you want layers and reflective material, and something that captures layers of air. I used 1/4 thick foil backed EVA foam previously with good result.
Foil side to the heat.
Doing the roof makes a big difference too, but it's a big commitment.
This looks very similar to what I've done in the past.
Taping every joint and eliminating gaps is worth the investment in time.
I've had to sounds proof rooms and studios on construction projects. Sealing and taping every possible gap is critical.
2KCruiser
Everything 2KRacing, practically live here
I laid down very thick insulation that's been amazingly silent and fit, barely.
Post in thread 'IH8MUD??? more like IH8CASH, new rig, new addiction, my build, let's Begin!' Builds - IH8MUD??? more like IH8CASH, new rig, new addiction, my build, let's Begin! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ih8mud-more-like-ih8cash-new-rig-new-addiction-my-build-lets-begin.912593/post-10387894
Post in thread 'IH8MUD??? more like IH8CASH, new rig, new addiction, my build, let's Begin!' Builds - IH8MUD??? more like IH8CASH, new rig, new addiction, my build, let's Begin! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ih8mud-more-like-ih8cash-new-rig-new-addiction-my-build-lets-begin.912593/post-10387894
i have the usual sound deadener with foam on top. then vinyl instead of carpet on top. i cut around everywhere a bolt goes, to ensure a solid clamp....seats, seatbelts, rear anchors, etc. it is pretty thick in spots but never had an issue w/ a bolt not being long enough.
I used DynaMat on an 80s Rx7 a few years back and the end result was miraculous. This is a butyl-rubber compound mated to thin metal sheet, with a sticky adhesive on the butyl-rubber side. You peel off the sticker side and press it down onto your clean surface. Once you roll it down with pressure, it's effectively permanent.
I did the work in stages and found that while the floor, trans tunnel, and firewall made a big difference (*this is a sports car, 4" off the pavement...), the biggest difference was lining the inside of the doors, along with the rear cargo area, spare tire depression, and surrounding structures. For panel resonance abatement, you only need 80% coverage, and I went with that mostly but some stuff got 100% because I wanted the best effect.
It adds some weight, though. I put in about 35lbs worth of DynaMat, and in a 2300lb car with 150hp, that can make a difference, but its the lowestwest point to the ground and probably dropped my CG. I have more than 35lbs of junk rattling around in my 80LC,...
Well worth the effort and time, but the metal backing is SHARP. Wear gloves if you use DynaMat, and buy a rubber roller tool.
I did the work in stages and found that while the floor, trans tunnel, and firewall made a big difference (*this is a sports car, 4" off the pavement...), the biggest difference was lining the inside of the doors, along with the rear cargo area, spare tire depression, and surrounding structures. For panel resonance abatement, you only need 80% coverage, and I went with that mostly but some stuff got 100% because I wanted the best effect.
It adds some weight, though. I put in about 35lbs worth of DynaMat, and in a 2300lb car with 150hp, that can make a difference, but its the lowestwest point to the ground and probably dropped my CG. I have more than 35lbs of junk rattling around in my 80LC,...
Well worth the effort and time, but the metal backing is SHARP. Wear gloves if you use DynaMat, and buy a rubber roller tool.
I added the foil backed rubber tiles along the floor and topped it with a MLV. Also did the same treatment in the doors and rear fenders. Going around and tapping on the doors give a solid dense sound and feel. I also added a reflective MLV on the passenger side front seat area and around the transmission area. That made a huge difference in temps.
All of the other MLV and foil backed rubber tiles may have made some slight difference in noise but it’s all hard to hear past any wind noise and just the general brick shape of an 80.
All of the other MLV and foil backed rubber tiles may have made some slight difference in noise but it’s all hard to hear past any wind noise and just the general brick shape of an 80.
