For Sale ***SOLD***1993 Toyota 75 series project for sale Ebay $8,000 no reserve

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Don't listen to that. If you sell that for $8k you're either nuts or very desperate.

OTRAMM is top notch. They'll get you setup right.
Sometimes building vehicles isn't about the numbers working out. This isn't real estate, it's a hobby (for the most part).
Build what you want, and enjoy it. You can't put a pricetag on that. Life's short. Live it up.

You're alright, TonyP 🤟

I wasn't put off by the 8k comment. I just figured it was someone unfamiliar with the 75 series values. No biggie :)
 
Trust me: when you get an estimate......and its $8k in labor.......you can basically double that to $16k cuz i guarantee when you start to dive into things like an axle - your shop will be calling you with- "well we have some bad news- we thought we could just tighten things up everything but your pinion is shot/ axle is bent slightly and its easier to just source a replacement axle in the front.-$800+ labor to weld on perches to match leafs width etc etc.- its gonna be $2500 just for axle and labor". then move around the cruiser to each thing wrong.......and double the estimate cost........cuz u will be getting weekly phone calls with...."we thought it was just this- but once we got in there it turns out its gonna be cheaper to grab a used 1fz and labor is gonna kill youl"

At some point- the shop will just get a recorded message direct to you saying " well- we got this apart- and its not looking so simple - looks like the p.o. just tossed on the wrong this or that and we really cant source these in the U.S. cuz theres no U.S. models or parts sourcing on this." then 2 years later......after waiting for junkyard Aussie or south american parts.......you will be suicidal.

if you get an $8k offer jump on it.......or get out your wallet and be prepared to drop another $15-20k mainly due to the fact that $8k-13k will be labor costs.
 
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Trust me: when you get an estimate......and its $8k in labor.......you can basically double that to $16k cuz i guarantee when you start to dive into things like an axle - your shop will be calling you with- "well we have some bad news- we thought we could just tighten things up everything but your pinion is shot/ axle is bent slightly and its easier to just source a replacement axle in the front.-$800+ labor to weld on perches to match leafs width etc etc.- its gonna be $2500 just for axle and labor". then move around the cruiser to each thing wrong.......and double the estimate cost........cuz u will be getting weekly phone calls with...."we thought it was just this- but once we got in there it turns out its gonna be cheaper to grab a used 1fz and labor is gonna kill youl"

if you get an $8k offer jump on it.......or get out your wallet and be prepared to drop another $15-20k mainly due to the fact that $8k-13k will be labor costs.

ah.....no
 
Well I looked through the photos again and I see all sorts of little issues that lead more to the slapped it all together.

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Looks like rust coming through behind the battery where the hinge is. There is probably a crap ton more hidden behind that. The fuel lines painted over is just sloppy work on paint. Rusted seatbelt, rusted bolts.
I can't tell on all of the pictures but are those rust bubbles being pointed out?
Is that one seatbelt zip tied on lol?
300,000 miles on this, I wonder what it looked like before the "clean up" My guess is those were hard miles.
Loose wires everywhere, unhooks cables, stretched brake lines, look d-shafts...yikers.


The more I look at this I do feel bad. You are in a hard place with this rig. On one hand, since you got it and have been made aware of all the crap that is wrong with it, If you are like me you would have a really hard time selling without fully explaining all the issues you know of and have to take a huge hit.
Unless the body is just bondo'd trash, $8k is too low. I get his premise though. On the other hand, fixing it will cost thousands more as there is a lot wrong from just what we can see from pics/video and it all adds up quickly.

Good call on taking it to Ottram, prepare for the worst lol.

Get it safe (axles/brakes, lights etc) and running without blowing oil everywhere. My guess is you are easily a few thousand in parts and labor here from a shop.
You will have a much better chance selling if mechanically it's much more sound. The body I wouldn't worry about unless it's about to rust through or fall off.

I took a gamble on mine from a friend in another state. It needed engine rebuilt and the price reflected it. That said it pretty much has ZERO of the other issues yours has and was much more taken care of having 300k miles as well.
 
Only someone from CA would see a "crap ton" of rust. Are you drinking a latte at the internet cafe by chance?

*i'm sorry. I am a child.
 
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You asked about someone in NE able to work on it. Don't know anything about these guys but they seem quite experienced.

 
Only someone from CA would see a "crap ton" of rust. Are you drinking a latte at the internet cafe by chance? I mean some of the sh!T coming out of your pie holes is just too funny.

Look you can be as snarky as you want, I was just giving some advice. I'm not from California, Colorado actually (which coincidently is turning into California but I digress) I don't drink coffee or any Latte whatever.

/Forrest Gump advice
Rust is like mice. There's never just 1. You can be sure if you find a mouse, there's a whole lot more of them hiding out that you can't see. Rust is just like that. That isn't surface rust under the hood....and those bubbling usually spots have a whole lot more going on. Rusted over bolt heads and rust on the seatbelt (thats new to me) means there is a whole like more hiding out you can't see. Where the hood hinge is in the above photo, you can see right behind the wiper motor, that metal is mangled. That comes from a wreck or something dropped on it. Compared to a rig from pennsylvania, this probably looks rust free....but as I said, just because they slapped a paint job on it, doesn't make it rust free. It's your rig, if it's rust free to you, then more power to you.

Now I could be wrong, and they could have sanded, welded in new metal, lightly skim coated any irregularities and fixed it correctly and those spots are coming from rock dents or chips...but judging from the other quality work they were passing off, I'd be prepared for the worst.

I never told you to sell it for cheap. I told you to be prepared as there is a long list of things that need repair.
 
Everyone is going to have a different perspective.

Seller thinks people are soft because they are pointing out rust and the potential for exponential repairs, while some might think the seller is soft (in the head) for buying a sight-unseen SA truck from a shady AF seller on ebay.

Diff'rent strokes.

EDIT: Not trying to pile on. Just pointing out that there are three sides to every story. I think sending it to Ryan is a smart move. I'm sure he will do his best to give as thorough of a look-around the rig as the seller is willing to fund. I wouldn't want to be on the receiving end of the estimate, but what's done is done.

I actually exchanged ebay messages with the original seller of that 75. I couldn't seem to get a direct answer on whether the truck was in Miami or Dallas, so I dropped off knowing what it would be like to get any meaningful details on the vehicle's condition.
 
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i still like the "I will sell it for exactly what i paid" Idea. Lets see if that has some traction. :hmm:

-BaT would pull $19-20k most likely....freeze plug or no freeze plug.
 
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It’s a pretty simple formula, guy down south see’s a nice clean honest 7 series on eBay sell for 35k. He looks over at his beat down, rusty used up on the farm 75 truck and a light bulb go’s off! I could slap a quick paint job on to hide all the bondo and rust and sell it it to someone thinking they could really get a great 75 series for half off! It’s happening everyday, the old saying, you get what you pay for, rings true with any cruiser really.
 
Grab that clutch over there and knock off the sand....im pretty sure thst will fit this once we knock off some surface rust ! we can just say " recent clutch work" on ebay.

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There's no hiding, it is what it is. But since we don't know what it is, I'm shipping down to someone who can tell me what it is. Then, I'll report back with a what it is report. Then you'll know what it is.

But, if you don't want to buy it or trade me something for it, get a life and spend your time doing something more meaningful.

This is the classified section.
 
I hope it is not as bad as everyone thinks!! This will be a really neat fun truck for someone and I look forward to it being on the road.
 
Just want to add...

I appreciate the hell out of the fact that @gomotomoto isn't just trying to flip this and dump the rig on some unsuspecting sap. Way too much of that in all used car circles. I hope OTRAMM comes back with good news but I too fear it's not going to be worth what was paid after issues are found. I do think it's worth well north of $8k though. I REALLY wish I could figure out a way to convert this to dual cab without spending 2x what it should cost. I could care less about all the currently known issues. I only give a damn about the body/rust.
 
There's no hiding, it is what it is. But since we don't know what it is, I'm shipping down to someone who can tell me what it is. Then, I'll report back with a what it is report. Then you'll know what it is.

But, if you don't want to buy it or trade me something for it, get a life and spend your time doing something more meaningful.

This is the classified section.

If you decide to "dump" it and or part it out, I would be interested in the tray. I will have two, maybe three coming in from Oz in May and the one I want to keep has a steel tray with canvas canopy. I prefer the "stock" tray.
 
popcorn I need more popcorn🍿
 
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