I don't know if there was a PTO bumper or not. I do know that when it came time to put the PTO winch on and the front bumper it was like building a puzzle. Many items had to be started, loosely, so that everything could ultimately. It was a PITA!
Build SLOW 71
- Thread starter scrapdaddy
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3rd and 4th picture here have good display of the mounting holes for bumper I used with PTO winch: POTM - March, 2014 - Javelina By Pablo Cruise
Here are the pictures I managed to take when putting winch on. It started owning me, so I did not take as many as I usually do...
POTM - March, 2014 - Javelina By Pablo Cruise
- Thread starter
- #1,745
Thanks Pablo,
Pictures helped. I figured the bumpers might be the same. My bolts for the two rollers are too long and will need to be trimmed. I don't have all those holes in the front like yours. Wonder what all that was.
Pictures helped. I figured the bumpers might be the same. My bolts for the two rollers are too long and will need to be trimmed. I don't have all those holes in the front like yours. Wonder what all that was.
lighter 
- Thread starter
- #1,747
Alright, now I get it, speed holes!
- Thread starter
- #1,748
Still playing around with the bumper and making some recovery points. Here's what I came up with. 3/4" material was on the metal rack, so it was picked. When everything is made, I'll weld them to the bumper. Am I missing anything or any ideas on why not to do this. I'm also going to reinforce the back of the bumper, so it doesn't kink so easy.
Thanks Guys,
Thanks Guys,
Will it be removable after you weld everything together? If for some unforeseen reason you need to remove the bumper for a repair a welded to the frame bumper will often times transfer damage to the frame making an easy repair a nightmare.
- Thread starter
- #1,750
Yes bolted to the frame with those 4 grade 8 bolts. Just welded to the bumper.
Good deal!!
My pig is slowly turning me into the undisputed king of unforeseeable repairs, so much so that I’m now considering using Velcro instead of welding or bolts..
My pig is slowly turning me into the undisputed king of unforeseeable repairs, so much so that I’m now considering using Velcro instead of welding or bolts..
- Thread starter
- #1,752
Damn, that's funny, but it's got me thinking. I haven't been off the farm yet. I might take a run for the title.
The stock bumper isn't all that stout. I'd be afraid the first tow job would deform the bumper. I'd try to tie into the frame so there isn't any force on the bumper itself.
I'd probably consider running through the bumper to connect to the frame rails.
I'd probably consider running through the bumper to connect to the frame rails.
- Thread starter
- #1,754
NikP,
Take a look at the pictures, I have a 3/4 x 3 inch plate going through the bumper and bolting to the frame with four 1/2" grade 8 bolts. All I want to do is weld the plate to the bumper so it doesn't flex, move, etc. around. All the strength will come from the frame attachment ( I hope ).
Edit... Those plates are @ 8 1/2 inches long.
Take a look at the pictures, I have a 3/4 x 3 inch plate going through the bumper and bolting to the frame with four 1/2" grade 8 bolts. All I want to do is weld the plate to the bumper so it doesn't flex, move, etc. around. All the strength will come from the frame attachment ( I hope ).
Edit... Those plates are @ 8 1/2 inches long.
I still wouldn't weld to the bumper, if you're concerned about flexing then over size the holes slightly and add some edging back around the holes to give it a clean look.
Sheet Metal Edging: Customized Edge Trims | Edge Trim Product Builder | Trim Lok
Sheet Metal Edging: Customized Edge Trims | Edge Trim Product Builder | Trim Lok
- Thread starter
- #1,756
I always thought it was common practice to weld the mounts to the bumper, along with bolting to frame. Unbolting the bumper and recovery plates and take off as one unit.
I am uncommon and don’t like the idea of seen recovery points to begin with so take my opinion with a grain of salt, if you drive anything like I do then at some point you will be working on the long sides of that front bumper to get them back into position, you have 12 plus unsupported inches of thin sheet steel hanging out in the breeze just waiting to bump something and bend back. If you’re able to remove the bumper skin and lay it flat your chances of straightening go up, if you need to replace then retrofitting a skin alone would be easier than fabbing all the recovery points again.
Either way hurry up and finish the pig so we can go on a camping trip before I wear mine out..
Either way hurry up and finish the pig so we can go on a camping trip before I wear mine out..
- Thread starter
- #1,758
What I want to do is reinforce the bumper with 1/4 plate welded in behind and then another horizontal piece welded at a right angle, midway, but you're right I smack something she's going to fold up.
I'm trying to get done, first trip is the Cruise Moab @ the first week in May.
I'm trying to get done, first trip is the Cruise Moab @ the first week in May.
I will always sacrifice a bumper skin to not bend a frame, this is why the bumper you see on my pig is 14 gauge steel and is easily removable with 4 each 3/8” bolts, I’m not a huge fan of over built bumpers attached to frames with thick plates, straightening frames sucks and if those long wings on the ends of your bumper don’t bend your frame will.
- Thread starter
- #1,760
No match for a shopping cart! I'm not expecting to be ramming into trees with it. If I hit something so hard as to bend up my plated frame, then I'll have more than a frame to worry about.