rear body mounts (4 Viewers)

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Rust collector or rididty component. And don’t say any of that silver metal stuff, cause that’s gonna stay!
 
Think I’m sold on the early NV4500+38mm split case with the 3:1 gearset.

6.34 x 3 x 4.1 = 77.9:1

As crawly as you’ll ever need to be in a full bodied FJ55.
Advance Adapters NV4500/split case adapter is $685
No adapter necessary to a GM engine (5.3), just the correct bellhousing/flywheel/clutch components.
GM engine and trans - LC transfer case and axles, not bad really. I mean, at least it’s not Ford.
 
Well!
I have this rather extensive backlog of memory related to this topic which involves my dealing with “death wobble” shortly after converting to Scout PS. Before the PS I’d done the Man-A-Fre shackle reversal. Made a thread on Mud in the 40/55 section. Went through EVERYTHING. Replaced all TRE’s, replaced wheel bearings, knuckle bearings (set proper preload), set toe-in, checked caster (+2 degrees or something like that, not optimal, but not enough to cause this issue) got new tires, etc.. etc... death wobble would not go away. Last resort installed a stabilizer similar to what @xtiaan2000 has here and, poof, it’s gone.
Fast forward 15 years or so and I’m reading this post by Dave G. (4+Plus) about optimal suspension geometry and how your ideal (ideal) front leaf spring setup has both eyes level, or at the same height from the ground. For several reasons he goes into depth, interestingly enough some instances of unequal heights behaving in death wobble characteristics. So out of curiosity, I measure all the solid axle leaf-sprung front ends at my place of employment, and find a few discrepancies. Pretty much every Ford had the front (hanger) higher than the rear (shackle) from the late 70’s to 2000’s.
Late 70’s Blazer, same thing. The only thing I found that had equal spring eye heights was a 4wd 1955 Chevy (NAPCO), with shackles in the front.
So I go home and check my setup. The front hangers place the front spring eye like 1-1/2” lower than the rear, totally opposite of what everything else is, and I understand why. They tried to build this kit to satisfy several things - keep axle centralized in the wheel well, maintain acceptable driveline angle, get caster, as close as possible, prevent rear hangers from having to be cut off and moved. Or maybe this was all afterthought for future versions. Either way, they failed at satisfying most of these, an my thinking is that the springs laying in a downward direction contribute more to the death wobble than almost anything else. Longer shackles in the front cause the same problem.
JMack’s Target Carrier was brought up, but remember all the work he did to his front suspension? Front shackles through the frame. His spring eyes appear to be either level, or higher in the front.

Sorry about the long winded hijack 😄😓

Somehow I missed this post. I have goten way behind in my reading - too much work.
This is very interesting b/c my 40 has some DW, while the 55 has none. Neither one is running a steering stabilizer. Both are running 33s (x12.5 on the 40, x10.5 on the 55). The 40 is lifted - 4", but shackles still out front.
I think I will do some measuring!
Thanks @RUSH55
 
Rear is 20 3/4"
Front is 21 1/2"
So yes higher in the front, but I believe trying to get these numbers without major modifications would be impossible and not have inverted shackles driving over parking lot speed bumps.

It’s not rocket surgery longer lift springs need longer shackles so it’s the nature of the beast and our options are limited. In my opinion unless you go to something like the Liquid Iron Industries Slider Box Kit then the best option is run the stiffest shackle bushing’s you can find and cut and turn with 6° plus of caster and drive on.

Hmm...
Now I have ideas for the spare front housing sitting in the garage!
 
Somehow I missed this post. I have goten way behind in my reading - too much work.
This is very interesting b/c my 40 has some DW, while the 55 has none. Neither one is running a steering stabilizer. Both are running 33s (x12.5 on the 40, x10.5 on the 55). The 40 is lifted - 4", but shackles still out front.
I think I will do some measuring!
Thanks @RUSH55

My money is on something being loose or worn out in the knuckle or spring bushings. . 12.50’s exacerbate everything
 
My money is on something being loose or worn out in the knuckle or spring bushings. . 12.50’s exacerbate everything

I need to give her some attention.
The poor 40 has been somewhat neglected. I have an exhaust leak at the manifolds (2F) and after all the everyday things get taken care I run out of time for the 40...
 
I started this thread originally to do the rear body mounts and just kept going from there.
Did those again and more. Figured
I just keep going.
 
I started this thread originally to do the rear body mounts and just kept going from there.
Did those again and more. Figured
I just keep going.
Everything old is new again...
 
I have been trying to come up with something witty to say to that! Wish I was funnier :)

Boy I’ll tell ya I have not been looking foward to all the grinding in the wheel wells. Finally put my big boy gloves on and got after it!

Just trying to move forward.
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Wow what a day!
Got a trip planned for Friday and still really didn’t have a good feel on my steering. The death wobble would start but the stabilizer shock would settle it down. So I had this impending doom kinda feeling when I would hit a bump. As I got under to look at my setup I realized that the shims to correct my caster were moving around. That’s no good. Had a chat with Kurt at SOR and he set me up.
When I had put a larger shackle on I put the shims in and they ended up making my leaf pack center pin too short or at least the head which is supposed to seat in the hole of the axle perch. So the whole axle was moving forward and aft!
The shims I had were 6mm at the high end. I did not know if they would be wrecked as I took them out so I decided to buy new ones. I asked for the 6degree shims. Turns out that they were at least twice the thickness! I cut some tubing to make the head longer by at least twice so it would stick up through the shim and would seat in the perch hole.
All back together now. The head of the center pin is well seated in the perch and the I have not felt the death wobble at all!!! Almost feels as though I could drive without my stabilizer shock.
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Didn’t have much choice. I think pro comp was the brand.

I took it for a drive tonight and I can’t remember when it drove better. Not squirrelly on the freeway, no hint of nightmare death woobles, and generally more stable. Almost feel like I could roll without a stabilizer. Won’t but feels like o could.
Gaining in confidence- stoked!
 

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