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Rust collector or rididty component. And don’t say any of that silver metal stuff, cause that’s gonna stay!
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Rust collector or rididty component. And don’t say any of that silver metal stuff, cause that’s gonna stay!
Well!
I have this rather extensive backlog of memory related to this topic which involves my dealing with “death wobble” shortly after converting to Scout PS. Before the PS I’d done the Man-A-Fre shackle reversal. Made a thread on Mud in the 40/55 section. Went through EVERYTHING. Replaced all TRE’s, replaced wheel bearings, knuckle bearings (set proper preload), set toe-in, checked caster (+2 degrees or something like that, not optimal, but not enough to cause this issue) got new tires, etc.. etc... death wobble would not go away. Last resort installed a stabilizer similar to what @xtiaan2000 has here and, poof, it’s gone.
Fast forward 15 years or so and I’m reading this post by Dave G. (4+Plus) about optimal suspension geometry and how your ideal (ideal) front leaf spring setup has both eyes level, or at the same height from the ground. For several reasons he goes into depth, interestingly enough some instances of unequal heights behaving in death wobble characteristics. So out of curiosity, I measure all the solid axle leaf-sprung front ends at my place of employment, and find a few discrepancies. Pretty much every Ford had the front (hanger) higher than the rear (shackle) from the late 70’s to 2000’s.
Late 70’s Blazer, same thing. The only thing I found that had equal spring eye heights was a 4wd 1955 Chevy (NAPCO), with shackles in the front.
So I go home and check my setup. The front hangers place the front spring eye like 1-1/2” lower than the rear, totally opposite of what everything else is, and I understand why. They tried to build this kit to satisfy several things - keep axle centralized in the wheel well, maintain acceptable driveline angle, get caster, as close as possible, prevent rear hangers from having to be cut off and moved. Or maybe this was all afterthought for future versions. Either way, they failed at satisfying most of these, an my thinking is that the springs laying in a downward direction contribute more to the death wobble than almost anything else. Longer shackles in the front cause the same problem.
JMack’s Target Carrier was brought up, but remember all the work he did to his front suspension? Front shackles through the frame. His spring eyes appear to be either level, or higher in the front.
Sorry about the long winded hijack
Rear is 20 3/4"
Front is 21 1/2"
So yes higher in the front, but I believe trying to get these numbers without major modifications would be impossible and not have inverted shackles driving over parking lot speed bumps.
It’s not rocket surgery longer lift springs need longer shackles so it’s the nature of the beast and our options are limited. In my opinion unless you go to something like the Liquid Iron Industries Slider Box Kit then the best option is run the stiffest shackle bushing’s you can find and cut and turn with 6° plus of caster and drive on.
Somehow I missed this post. I have goten way behind in my reading - too much work.
This is very interesting b/c my 40 has some DW, while the 55 has none. Neither one is running a steering stabilizer. Both are running 33s (x12.5 on the 40, x10.5 on the 55). The 40 is lifted - 4", but shackles still out front.
I think I will do some measuring!
Thanks @RUSH55
By the way am stoked on all this discussion. It helps a lot. I have a lot to learn.
My money is on something being loose or worn out in the knuckle or spring bushings. . 12.50’s exacerbate everything
Everything old is new again...I started this thread originally to do the rear body mounts and just kept going from there.
Did those again and more. Figured
I just keep going.
Everything old is new again...
Everything old is new again...