Question about 40 Series Hunt

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I hunted for my 40 (in the Middle East region) for 3 years. It took that long because I was a foreigner; I could find one in a week now that I know people. I focused on three things... had to be original paint (no respray), had to be running and drivable, had to have a straight chassis.
 
I'm sorta coming around on the 1983 diesel 5-speed on BaT. If the sale of my '93 works out today, I may go look at it in Atlanta in person. Blue is my second favorite 40 color. Plus - diesel, 5 speed, 2.5" OME lift, and rear-axle parking brake.

1983 Toyota Land Cruiser BJ42

1983-toyota-land-cruiser-bj42-1558131633f66e7dff9f98764da-DSC-0942-e1559762442432-940x625.jpg
 
Agreed. I think the lynch-pin issue is the paint and body work. I can do everything else myself.



What engine code is your diesel BJ74? 13BT?



Agree 100%. Every time I tell someone that I own a Land Cruiser, there first question is, "Oh cool! The old 40 series???" Even if they don't know anything about Land Cruisers or 4x4s, they know about the 40 series. It is the epitome of Land Cruiser. I just don't want to compromise. Maybe I'll own another 80 series one day (potentially for my 6BT/NV4500 diesel swap).

But for now, I want a 40 series.

Correct 13BT. It's a great peppy little engine that can handle more boost/power. As I said, I wouldn't really want any less power. My FJ55 2F, stock gears on 35's in Colorado passes was terrible. The drivetrain on this BJ74 is excellent and would be awesome in a 40.

There are some options for putting a Toyota diesel in a 40, depending on your $$$. Unless the rig you buy already has a diesel, you will want to get a 1HZ or newer and turbo it if NA. 13BT, 12HT are awesome, but parts are getting harder to find with some being N/A. 3B is decent albeit slow without a turbo.
A 1HZ or better engine will be in $5K plus range used.

Definitely check that BJ40 out. "Looks" solid to me and a good starting point. The engine compression numbers and overall health would be a concern.
 
Correct 13BT. It's a great peppy little engine that can handle more boost/power. As I said, I wouldn't really want any less power. My FJ55 2F, stock gears on 35's in Colorado passes was terrible. The drivetrain on this BJ74 is excellent and would be awesome in a 40.

There are some options for putting a Toyota diesel in a 40, depending on your $$$. Unless the rig you buy already has a diesel, you will want to get a 1HZ or newer and turbo it if NA. 13BT, 12HT are awesome, but parts are getting harder to find with some being N/A. 3B is decent albeit slow without a turbo.
A 1HZ or better engine will be in $5K plus range used.

Definitely check that BJ40 out. "Looks" solid to me and a good starting point. The engine compression numbers and overall health would be a concern.

Great intel. Thank you.

Anyone know a good Cruiser shop or Cruiser-head in Atlanta that could do an inspection for me on the BaT truck? I would compensate them, obviously.
 
Isn't ACC Garage (Atlanta Custom Creations) in Atlanta? They're a sponsoring vendor (bronze level), too. And they have a forum in the vendor's area.


 
Isn't ACC Garage (Atlanta Custom Creations) in Atlanta? They're a sponsoring vendor (bronze level), too. And they have a forum in the vendor's area.




Great intel! Anyone have personal experience with them? Are they any good?
 
I've had 6 80 series from stock to really built. They are fantastic all over. But they are not a 40 series. I completely get wanting a 40 over an 80. IMO, it is THE land cruiser. I have a sweet BJ74, but I would trade it for the right, nice 40 series.

...want mine? :cautious:

Thank you for your insight!

I agree with most of your analysis. But the reality is, I didn't really drive my 80 like I thought I would. I would take day and weekend trips in the truck, but would mostly just drive it out to the lake (an hour away). I never took it camping or on a long road trip. It was truly a weekend truck for coffee runs or short drives. If I had to take a long road-trip, I would probably take my new Tacoma.

So, if I'm not using the 80 series as a "highway" truck and taking long road trips or going camping with it, then what am I doing?

So if you’re not going to use it on long trips or the highway why do you need the 5 speed?
 
Ok, so maybe paint isn't the easiest thing to change. But to do a diesel conversion with a 5sp (done correctly) may cost as much as proper repaint to change color.
 
Color really shouldn't be the determining factor. Take a look at all the ugly wives, husbands and children out there. Doesn't seem to matter to spouses or parents. You can get use to looking at most anything. After looking at me, wife of 45 years just said, "Maybe not mustard!"
 
A minimal rust factory diesel 40 series are very hard to find, and/or very pricey.

If you can do all the mechanical work, then 100% yes go for the best body you can find...and if you aren't afraid that might be a non-runner no engine. Which could be OK if you want to swap to diesel.

LHD diesel will mainly be Canada...big rust issues, but there are other places to look.
Are you set on diesel?
Would you consider a swap?
There aren't many (no factory I"m aware of) 5 Spd US Market FJ40's

Toyota Diesels are great, but they can be pricey. Ask me...I just rebuilt my 13BT, new turbo, rebuild Injection pump, injectors everything. Injection Pump and Injectors alone you are looking $1,500+ on the low side. The non-turbo 4 cylinder Toyota diesels are quite slow and usually by this age are in need of some maintenance.

This all depends on what exactly you HAVE to have. diesel? 5 Spd?
Me, I would start with the cleanest, least rust FJ40 body I could find. Then at that point decide if I"m going 2F, hi-po 2f fuel injection, diesel swap, V8 swap whatever. The h55F 5 Spd is a great transmission from Toyota.

Depending on drive train combo, h55 in a 40 can result in a very short rear drive shaft which has caused issues for some.
 
i wanted green or blue... bought white... been driving it for 28+ years white

Had the opportunity to change it several times... never did... you will love the truck for what it is ... any color

IF you do not like the truck for what it is ... you will most likely sell it :meh:

Like my ‘blank slate’ white truck also! ;)
 
Depending on drive train combo, h55 in a 40 can result in a very short rear drive shaft which has caused issues for some.


Toyota installed the H55F in the FJ40 and BJ42. Rear driveshaft isn't that short. I have the driveshafts from a US 1982 FJ40 and AU 1983 BJ42. Not a huge difference in length. Guess if you doing enough of a lift that would cause a sharp angle should be fine. Steve @Poser did a H55F into a 79 FJ40 including a hand brake a number of years ago. There is a thread on it here.
 
Also, is anyone in the Atlanta area familiar with 40 series diesels that can do an inspection for me?

I called ACC garage and they did not instill a great deal of confidence in their ability to thoroughly inspect the truck:

“Uhhh, well...we don’t work on diesels, so yeah. But we could inspect it.”
 
Diesels are going to be 24 volts. The compression in a diesel engine is extremely high compared to gas engines, and it requires more voltage to turn the engine over.
You can see 2 batteries in the pic of the engine compartment.
 
That should be a 12v if it's a Canadian market vehicle. Mine diesel is 12v Australian market so I'm glad about that, but it's not a deal breaker overall to have 24v. Although with 2 batteries and everything else looking stock, it very well may be 24v

this is the specs on it according to the VIN.
EDIT: Looking at parts on toyodiy.com with this VIN it's showing 24V for replacement. Probably is 24v.

Market
N. America
Year
02/1983
Make
TOYOTA
Model
LAND CRUISER
Frame
BJ42

Vehicle characteristics
DESTINATION:CND:CANADA
BODY:VAN:VAN
ENGINE:3B:3400CC DIESEL
GEAR SHIFT TYPE:5F:MTM, 5-SPEED FLOOR SHIFT
BACK DOOR:VKC:VAN (HARDTOP), WITH SWING OUT BACK DOOR
ROLL BAR:RB:WITH ROLL BAR (WITH SAFETY BAR)


12v vs 24v was market dependent.



@Will Van not sure if there are any diesel shops close, the main thing with these old school diesels is just make sure the compression is good and in spec. Hard to tell injector quality or IP quality unless it's not running really good, and then at that point you are rebuilding them anyways. Possible it's due for them.

I would make sure the vehicle isn't bondo/rust (don't think it is) then maybe see if they can do a compression check?
 
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