Question about 40 Series Hunt

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I appreciate the correction. I'm always learning something on this site.

You were correct on this, it is 24v :) but they could be 12 or 24 depending on market. I had BJ70's on the brain.

More info I found.
All Canadian market BJ40/42's are 24v, BJ60's 12v, HJ60's 24v, BJ70's are a mix depending on the year some 12v and some 24v.

Remember, this is for Canadian market trucks ONLY. Trucks from other markets have other systems. Some items on the BJ40/42's are 12v like the headlights (one from each battery).

Interesting stuff.
 
Diesels are going to be 24 volts. The compression in a diesel engine is extremely high compared to gas engines, and it requires more voltage to turn the engine over.
You can see 2 batteries in the pic of the engine compartment.

As lazylfarm mentioned, not all diesels are 24 volts. You are correct, the compression of diesel engines is very high. But they need more cranking amps to turn the engine over, not necessarily just volts.

Also, dual batteries is not necessarily an indicator of whether the truck is 24 volts. Some of the diesel BJ42s had dual batteries and were 12 volts. And almost all modern HD diesels have dual batteries.


That should be a 12v if it's a Canadian market vehicle. Mine diesel is 12v Australian market so I'm glad about that, but it's not a deal breaker overall to have 24v. Although with 2 batteries and everything else looking stock, it very well may be 24v

this is the specs on it according to the VIN.
EDIT: Looking at parts on toyodiy.com with this VIN it's showing 24V for replacement. Probably is 24v.

Market
N. America
Year
02/1983
Make
TOYOTA
Model
LAND CRUISER
Frame
BJ42

Vehicle characteristics
DESTINATION:CND:CANADA
BODY:VAN:VAN
ENGINE:3B:3400CC DIESEL
GEAR SHIFT TYPE:5F:MTM, 5-SPEED FLOOR SHIFT
BACK DOOR:VKC:VAN (HARDTOP), WITH SWING OUT BACK DOOR
ROLL BAR:RB:WITH ROLL BAR (WITH SAFETY BAR)


12v vs 24v was market dependent.



@Will Van not sure if there are any diesel shops close, the main thing with these old school diesels is just make sure the compression is good and in spec. Hard to tell injector quality or IP quality unless it's not running really good, and then at that point you are rebuilding them anyways. Possible it's due for them.

I would make sure the vehicle isn't bondo/rust (don't think it is) then maybe see if they can do a compression check?

Thank you, this is very helpful!
 
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I am an owner of both models, drove a 40 as a DD for 6 years in the 90s (restoring now) and currently drive a 92 as a DD with a family. I agree with those who have said dont sell the 80 series. I love my 40, but there is something undeniable about the all-around usefullness of the 80-it is a true cruiser cadillac built for traveling the world over. The 40 is an iconic classic rig but the 80 series embodies a much better equipped vehicle for what we use them for: everything. More room, more options, more capabilities; an evolution of the original masterpiece.

If you like working on cruisers then dont be picky, get a 40 to restore while you still have the 80 as your utility vehicle. I painted my 80 (and did minor body work) as a complete newbie and it turned out awesome. The 40 on the other hand was $8k in body/paint and not sure what Dad paid for metal work on floor boards, running boards, back panels etc., probably upwards of $3k including aftre market panels. The professional job was needed because of the extent and nature of building a classic show truck-so if thats what your going for expect to have it done professionally for minimum 10k.

FJ40: louder, smaller, less comfortable, much worse handling "performance" (though with the top off its pretty sporty when freed of the weight and COG goes way down), less safe. still holds a ton in back without passengers crammed in the jump seats, more iconic, possibly funner to drive, removeable top, head turner, shorter wheel base better for trail; but are you really going to push the 40 which is going to be super ^$$ and probably has just had body work done on it already?
 
They uploaded new pictures...not sure if you saw them and a cold start video. Rust isn't as bad as I thought, but it's still there.
Looks like leaking all over, plus leaking rear main.


Cold start has me a little worried. Not like it's that cold in Georgia. Could be bad/no glow plugs...or compression. Could be batteries cranking too slow.
Compression numbers would answer a lot of questions.
My guess is it's going to need some mechanical work to injectors, IP and seals sooner rather than later.




EDIT: The more I look, the more overspray I see. It's definitely been repainted at some point with overspray on the grill, door strikers, bib hinge, rear sill. Personally, I wouldn't pay high for this one, but thats just me. There aren't a lot out there. This one looks solid, but has been repainted, leaking, some rust (could be more covered up) and I would for sure get compression numbers.
 
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They uploaded new pictures...not sure if you saw them and a cold start video. Rust isn't as bad as I thought, but it's still there.
Looks like leaking all over, plus leaking rear main.


Cold start has me a little worried. Not like it's that cold in Georgia. Could be bad/no glow plugs...or compression. Could be batteries cranking too slow.
Compression numbers would answer a lot of questions.
My guess is it's going to need some mechanical work to injectors, IP and seals sooner rather than later.




EDIT: The more I look, the more overspray I see. It's definitely been repainted at some point with overspray on the grill, door strikers, bib hinge, rear sill. Personally, I wouldn't pay high for this one, but thats just me. There aren't a lot out there. This one looks solid, but has been repainted, leaking, some rust (could be more covered up) and I would for sure get compression numbers.


Roger that. Thank you so much for the analysis. I'm going to steal some of your diagnosis and post on BaT. Thank you!
 
I am an owner of both models, drove a 40 as a DD for 6 years in the 90s (restoring now) and currently drive a 92 as a DD with a family. I agree with those who have said dont sell the 80 series. I love my 40, but there is something undeniable about the all-around usefullness of the 80-it is a true cruiser cadillac built for traveling the world over. The 40 is an iconic classic rig but the 80 series embodies a much better equipped vehicle for what we use them for: everything. More room, more options, more capabilities; an evolution of the original masterpiece.

If you like working on cruisers then dont be picky, get a 40 to restore while you still have the 80 as your utility vehicle. I painted my 80 (and did minor body work) as a complete newbie and it turned out awesome. The 40 on the other hand was $8k in body/paint and not sure what Dad paid for metal work on floor boards, running boards, back panels etc., probably upwards of $3k including aftre market panels. The professional job was needed because of the extent and nature of building a classic show truck-so if thats what your going for expect to have it done professionally for minimum 10k.

FJ40: louder, smaller, less comfortable, much worse handling "performance" (though with the top off its pretty sporty when freed of the weight and COG goes way down), less safe. still holds a ton in back without passengers crammed in the jump seats, more iconic, possibly funner to drive, removeable top, head turner, shorter wheel base better for trail; but are you really going to push the 40 which is going to be super ^$$ and probably has just had body work done on it already?

I really appreciate what you're saying about the 80. But I have my daily driver - a 2019 Tacoma Off Road 4x4. The Land Cruiser parking spot is supposed to fulfill a specific purpose for me. It's a weekend truck that goes to the lake, grabs coffee, and is my general "fun" vehicle. I initially purchased the 80 as a compromise. No, its not as iconic as the 40, but it's probably more capable and more comfortable. After owning it for a year I realized, it's not fulfilling the niche driving experience that I want. I want a classic truck that doesn't necessarily have all the amenities, but is a head-turner. Something strictly for indulgence. Maybe I'll still take it on road trips and on the highway. But its primary function is fun, not practicality.

Besides, this isn't the end of the road. I can always buy another 80 series later. Can you ever have too many Toyota 4x4s?!
 
Love my 69’ 40FST— with factory bows and no soft top, it looks like it just came back from safari— fun to drive. My 14’ 4Runner is my DD and am currently having a 72’ K10 Cheyenne original shortbed with granny low 4 speed restored— same category as my 40– fun vehicle but in the Chevy’s case very rare with rare RPO options. Here is the 40

BE0282D1-462F-4972-81BC-90C40FD85DE8.webp
 
Well then, you are set. Wait, what about two head turners? yes the 80 is an Icon too IMHO;)

Why no interest in a 2f? Pretty solid, you'd have no issues in a non-smog state too. Once you get the carb dialed it runs forever. Mine used to have headers and we'd scream up to Tahoe in it with Four of us and all the gear. Just have to go outside and pull the choke out in the morning then go finish your coffee...

est. 1996. White top removed was a good road trip option, less wind on the highway
IMG_0675.webp
 
Well then, you are set. Wait, what about two head turners? yes the 80 is an Icon too IMHO;)

Why no interest in a 2f? Pretty solid, you'd have no issues in a non-smog state too. Once you get the carb dialed it runs forever. Mine used to have headers and we'd scream up to Tahoe in it with Four of us and all the gear. Just have to go outside and pull the choke out in the morning then go finish your coffee...

est. 1996. White top removed was a good road trip option, less wind on the highway
View attachment 2002408

I'm still considering a 2F. There is a Freeborn Red one local to me that is really clean and in my price range. Plus, no 24-volt issues.

But 40 series diesel 5-speed would just be the ultimate! So freakin' cool! It's an iconic tractor!!!
 
The 2F had a five speed option the same years as the 3B. The five speed has a lower first gear and overdrive fifth gear. Basically a H41 with a overdrive. H42 imported to the US market is a friendly street transmission. H55F five speed was only available on the 40 series 83/84 models. All other H55F five speeds the top cover is different and moves shifters further back than stock. Not a big deal to some deal killer to me. Search a long time to find one from a 40 series. Took help from a member in Australia to get one.
 
Next question - How difficult is it to convert a 24 volt truck to a 12 volt? :rofl:
I just converted a 24V starter to 12v last week. Just get a cheap 12V Cummins starter and swap the motor over. Took about 10 minutes. Alternator I used one from an NPR truck and made a new bracket. You could use a pull cable in place of the EDIC to shut it down. Then swapping all the bulbs, glow plugs, regulators and such. I’m sure there is a bit more. My 12v Costa Rican BJ40 had no troubles starting in our winters in Texas.
 
I’m thinking about bidding on the BaT truck.

Is anyone in Atlanta that can do a compression test and rust inspection on it for me this weekend? I'd happily compensate you.

Also, what do you think the truck is worth if the compression/inspection is good?


1983 Toyota Land Cruiser BJ42

1983-toyota-land-cruiser-bj42-1558131633f66e7dff9f98764da-DSC-0942-e1559762442432-940x625.jpg
 
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I realize the Canadian imported BJ42 trucks are all 24 volt. What about Costa Rica? Are BJ42s imported from Costa Rica 24-volt or 12-volt?
South America are mostly 12V but they won’t be near the condition you want. They also have no heaters.
 
Another update from the BaT seller. I copied and pasted below:

Hi friends – I took the BJ42 to Peter Merriam today with Merriam Automotive in Duluth, GA for a very quick inspection of the items mentioned. Peter has been working on Land Cruisers since 1975, and you’ll see his name pop up at ih8mud.com from time to time.

Although he didn’t have availability for a full inspection, he did comment on the following items that you all asked about:

1. Fluid on oil pan – small leak from oil pan gasket, and oil is being blown around the oil pan and front driveshaft from air out of the blowby tube. He said the rear main seal looks fine.
2. Transfer case – yes, seals are leaking, but far from uncommon and certainly repairable.
3. Long cold start – the batteries are from 2011 and are due for a replacement. New batteries will likely correct the cold start issue.
4. General rust – the most significant rust is in the driver’s footwell, and rust in other areas is generally minor. (additional pictures of requested areas are being uploaded).

Other general comments – don’t forget that all J40 trucks are at least 35 years old! With that in perspective, this truck is in good condition. The vast majority of the truck has been spared from major rust, the 3B engine is still running like its normal bulletproof self, and the 5 speed transmission still feels great and shifts smoothly. This is an original BJ42 (rather than a converted FJ), and it will really be worth something to a true Cruiser-enthusiast who can appreciate how rare and unique it is to have a true BJ around here!


@handcar yes, the rear seats do have the support bars (shown in new picture being uploaded).

Seller mentions "air" coming out the blowby tube. Couldn't that be an indication of compression getting past the rings and pushing oil out the blowby tube?
 
Well then, you are set. Wait, what about two head turners? yes the 80 is an Icon too IMHO;)

Why no interest in a 2f? Pretty solid, you'd have no issues in a non-smog state too. Once you get the carb dialed it runs forever. Mine used to have headers and we'd scream up to Tahoe in it with Four of us and all the gear. Just have to go outside and pull the choke out in the morning then go finish your coffee...

est. 1996. White top removed was a good road trip option, less wind on the highway
View attachment 2002408
I have two 40’s and love them both BUT mark my words: The 80 IS a future classic as well. Nice pic BTW!
 
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