Pulsing/droning vibration at highway speeds (3 Viewers)

[RootMeanSqr]

You might look at posts #22 and #26 by Trail Tailor on the Trail Tailor Rear Control Arms Installed thread.
He suggests starting with lower arms before upper. He also sells both the upper and the lower (I haven't purchased, just full disclosure...)

Trail Tailor rear control arms installed

I just got mine today. Can someone explain the adjustment part of the installation? Thank you!

forum.ih8mud.com

To follow up, I purchased the adjustable lower rear control arms from @TRAIL TAILOR. I adjusted them to somewhere around 3/8" longer than stock, pretty minimal. This has removed about 95% of my pulsing/droning at highway speeds (around 70mph). Very pleased with the result. Rear suspension is OEM shocks and OME 865 springs, so a pretty minimal lift, but it definitely had an effect on the pinion angle and appeared to cause the droning for me. YMMV.

 

[krispykritter]

To follow up, I purchased the adjustable lower rear control arms from @TRAIL TAILOR. I adjusted them to somewhere around 3/8" longer than stock, pretty minimal. This has removed about 95% of my pulsing/droning at highway speeds (around 70mph). Very pleased with the result. Rear suspension is OEM shocks and OME 865 springs, so a pretty minimal lift, but it definitely had an effect on the pinion angle and appeared to cause the droning for me. YMMV.

Any chance you can tell me the measurements of the oem links? Bolt center to bolt center? I swear I took a picture but can't find it now.

 

[DanInDenver]

Been having a vibration through the car from 50 to 70 mph.

-Dropped the rear driveshaft and drove on the front diff, Vibes are gone.

-Replaced rear driveshaft with new OEM and vibes are back

Has anyone here done transfer case or diff bearings?

I would again drop the rear drive shaft and verify if the vibration goes away again.

 

[krispykritter]

Ah - found it.

Trail Tailor rear control arms installed

I just got mine today. Can someone explain the adjustment part of the installation? Thank you!

forum.ih8mud.com

27.25" center to center is stock.

 

[shtbrwn86]

I started another thread regarding similar symptoms. Mine is a vibration under my seat/pedal that starts at about 50mph. Gets worse as I accelerate to about 75. Never gone faster than that, but it happens as I accelerate. When I let off the gas it almost gets more severe for half a second and then calms down as i decelerate.

I went under the truck today and tried to wiggle the u-joints and the rear most u joint that connects to the rear diff has a little play in one of the axis. I was able to push up on it with two hands and it definitely moves at the joint. I assume this is not normal? None of the joints seemed to have this issue.

For me, this started after a winter camping trip where we had to drive through 14” of snow. Noticed the vibration on the freeway coming home. That was back in February

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I started another thread regarding similar symptoms. Mine is a vibration under my seat/pedal that starts at about 50mph. Gets worse as I accelerate to about 75. Never gone faster than that, but it happens as I accelerate. When I let off the gas it almost gets more severe for half a second and then calms down as i decelerate.

I went under the truck today and tried to wiggle the u-joints and the rear most u joint that connects to the rear diff has a little play in one of the axis. I was able to push up on it with two hands and it definitely moves at the joint. I assume this is not normal? None of the joints seemed to have this issue.

For me, this started after a winter camping trip where we had to drive through 14” of snow. Noticed the vibration on the freeway coming home. That was back in February

Take the rear drive shaft off, lock the center diff and go for a drive. You will know immediately if it was the rear!

 

[shtbrwn86]

Take the rear drive shaft off, lock the center diff and go for a drive. You will know immediately if it was the rear!

Is it really that simple? Do I need to do anything else?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Is it really that simple? Do I need to do anything else?

Nope, dead simple. All 8 bolts and nuts (4 on each side) are 14mm.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Nope, dead simple. All 8 bolts and nuts (4 on each side) are 14mm.

I will be doing that today! I just didn’t want to take it off and have it leak diff fluid or something. I will put match marks on there so it’s connected back the same way.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Also, if the u joint is the issue, how much harm does that do driving like that? I’ve put about 500 miles on it with this vibration issue and likely need to put about another 500 before I can get it replaced, unless it’s really bad to drive like this?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Also, if the u joint is the issue, how much harm does that do driving like that? I’ve put about 500 miles on it with this vibration issue and likely need to put about another 500 before I can get it replaced, unless it’s really bad to drive like this?

The worst it's doing is probably just annoying you .

 

[shtbrwn86]

So things move VERY SLOWLY in my world right now (two little kids, a commute and just moved) but I plan to pull the rear shaft in the next few days to try and isolate the vibration....

Just to clarify I can remove the shaft and drive at freeway speeds without issue? I don't need 4WD right now, so I am fine driving around in 2WD as long as it doesn't mess anything up.


Also I started another thread similar to this before I found this one so I just wanted to link it here in case anyone else came across it.
Front end vibration 60+ mph

 

[ClassyJalopy]

When you remove the rear drive shaft and lock the center diff, you will be essentially in a front wheel drive (think Corolla)! Theoretically it should be safe to drive like that indefinitely regardless of speed. In practice I wouldn't drive more than a few miles, just to isolate the vibration issue.

 

[Juice Berry]

I had more of pulsing at 60 mph noticeable with a mild incline. It turned out to be a bad fuel pump. I have seen this on other forums. It isn't constant like a drive shaft or a tire. I had cleaned the MAF, changed the FUEL filter as well.

 

[Yeti80]

I have a noticeable vibration/wheel hop feeling coming from my passenger front wheel area at specifically 45 mph. My LC is lifted with the Iron Man Pro Cell lift with 35s, diff drop and Nitro UCAs. The knuckle has had its wheel bearings replaced last year along with steering end links and LCA bushings replaced. Recently I have greased the u-joints and driveshafts. I do have a torn axle boot which I am planning on replacing soon.

For now I have rotated the wheels to see if the vibration is transferred to the rear, but it still stays the same. Would a torn axle boot for the past couple of months be the cause of this? Or a castor issue?

 

[fussychicken]

Wanted to bump back up this master thread as I can’t seem to track down my issue here. I’ve read through this whole thread and it seems like while some people have issues on the front end, most of them have rear driveline issues like I do. It seems like for many of those folks, a new rear driveshaft can fix the issue, but for just as many people it doesn't seem to work. I seem to be in that boat.

First off, big thanks to @LJE for his deep exploration here. His thread is really great and you should probably also read it if you are having this problem. I still haven’t solved my issue and I didn’t want to keep clogging his thread so I wanted to post here.

I’ve changed a bunch of items with OEM parts to solve other things like the clunk. But I still have major driveline noise and vibration from 50+ mph.

Things I've changed (all OEM parts):

• Front CVs
• Front Flanges
• All new Front UCAs
• All new Front LCAs
• New No2 LCA Bushing
• All three front diff housing bushings
• New Motor Mounts
• New Trans Mount
• New Mobil 1 Syn 75-90 in front, center, and rear diff
• Repacked front bearings
• Repacked front needle carrier bearings
• Front End Alignment to OEM spec
• Rear Driveshaft
• And yes, I still have my frame weight

Things I haven’t done (yet?):

• Front driveshaft (front transfer to front diff)
• Rear Axle Bearings
• Transfer Case Bearings
• Rear Suspension Arms
• 7 Year old Michelin LTX (but still look good)
• Rear Diff?!?!?

Before I put in the new rear drive shaft, I had vibration and booming around 50-60mph. And it mostly phased out above that. Before installing the new rear driveshaft I did a test run with it out and the CDL engaged, and man was it smooth. This makes me think it is related to the rear part of the drivetrain.

With the new rear driveshaft I didn’t fix the problem. The “pitch” is higher, (maybe around 100Hz or so?) and the noise and vibration carries on across an even wider range from 50-80+mph. The whole underfloor seems to vibrate and it is especially unbearable on smooth pavement. It is not a cyclical or a "womp womp" sound. It is a constant vibration that seems to somewhat increase in frequency directly with speed. Doesn't really change much when I'm on or off throttle or if I'm in neutral.


Things I’m going to try next:

• New Rear Suspension Arms: I’ve read that the diff angle is important for pinion alignment and old suspension arms can throw this off. Given the amount of vibration here I find this hard to believe, but still going to try it.
• Take the brand new rear driveshaft to a driveline shop: Has anyone had a bad OEM driveshaft? Maybe they could check the balance for me?
• 90 deg rotation on the slip yoke. Who knows, maybe this might help?
• Change direction and put slip yoke up by transfer case. Maybe this might help?
• Transfer case rear bearing: As @LJE found, his bearing was toast. But when I move around my rear driveshaft I don’t get the bearing movement like he does here.

Any other ideas here? Given all the other baselining I have been doing the truck is running great except for this issue. Driving me crazy here….

 

[krispykritter]

I had multiple problems with mine, all related to the rear shaft and me screwing things up. The tell-tale there is the higher-pitched (still low, but not tire speed type low) vibration you get at speed, plus, I had the same diag process of driving in FWD mode and the truck was smooth as butter.

First - I didn't make sure that the two u-joints were "in phase" when I installed the rear shaft. This will cause exactly the sort of driveline vibration you describe. I fixed this by resetting the yoke to the correct orientation. I feel like, based on your description, that this is the most likely issue. I assume you've check this already? If not - start there. It's also possible that the slip yoke was inserted into the shaft 180 degrees out of where it was balanced as well.

First and a half - Have you verified the u-joints are "loose" aka able to move around easily by hand? If they are "tight" as in take a fair bit of force to move, that can cause issues as well. USUALLY a smack with a mallet on the side of the u-joint yoke is how you free them up if they're tight. Just one smack at a time then try to move them. It's quite noticeable when they break free.

Second - I got new lower links and didn't adjust them properly to ensure the front and rear pinion angles are complementary. This was complicated by a slightly leaking AHC strut that would slowly lose fluid and change the height of the front of the truck while driving, leading to bad driveline vibes only occasionally. A good level/angle finder is required here and it's a massive pain in the ass unless you have lower links you can adjust while they're mounted on the truck. I don't think you have adjustable lower links, and (I would imagine) your bushings would have to be non-existent to have enough movement to ALWAYS exhibit this sort of vibration.

Third - I'm on my third rear driveshaft in the last five years because I seem to be really good at finding rocks with them. But, even when I've done some pretty gnarly damage to the shafts, I've been able to drive home vibration-free up to about 60-65 mph (fortunately!). Even with the damage below, I didn't feel any vibes until that speed - it wasn't a banana but it definitely took some damage.

Fourth - I had pretty worn bushings in other places in the rear end, which was letting the axle move around, which led to the occasional vibration on the highway when I'd floor it, or when towing, or when loading up the rear axle in a major way at speed. Something else to consider. This doesn't seem all that likely given you have a constant vibration that sounds rather drastic, as opposed to an somewhat minor, intermittent one.

 

[abuck99]

Wanted to bump back up this master thread as I can’t seem to track down my issue here. I’ve read through this whole thread and it seems like while some people have issues on the front end, most of them have rear driveline issues like I do. It seems like for many of those folks, a new rear driveshaft can fix the issue, but for just as many people it doesn't seem to work. I seem to be in that boat.

First off, big thanks to @LJE for his deep exploration here. His thread is really great and you should probably also read it if you are having this problem. I still haven’t solved my issue and I didn’t want to keep clogging his thread so I wanted to post here.

I’ve changed a bunch of items with OEM parts to solve other things like the clunk. But I still have major driveline noise and vibration from 50+ mph.

Things I've changed (all OEM parts):

• Front CVs
• Front Flanges
• All new Front UCAs
• All new Front LCAs
• New No2 LCA Bushing
• All three front diff housing bushings
• New Motor Mounts
• New Trans Mount
• New Mobil 1 Syn 75-90 in front, center, and rear diff
• Repacked front bearings
• Repacked front needle carrier bearings
• Front End Alignment to OEM spec
• Rear Driveshaft
• And yes, I still have my frame weight

Things I haven’t done (yet?):

• Front driveshaft (front transfer to front diff)
• Rear Axle Bearings
• Transfer Case Bearings
• Rear Suspension Arms
• 7 Year old Michelin LTX (but still look good)
• Rear Diff?!?!?

Before I put in the new rear drive shaft, I had vibration and booming around 50-60mph. And it mostly phased out above that. Before installing the new rear driveshaft I did a test run with it out and the CDL engaged, and man was it smooth. This makes me think it is related to the rear part of the drivetrain.

With the new rear driveshaft I didn’t fix the problem. The “pitch” is higher, (maybe around 100Hz or so?) and the noise and vibration carries on across an even wider range from 50-80+mph. The whole underfloor seems to vibrate and it is especially unbearable on smooth pavement. It is not a cyclical or a "womp womp" sound. It is a constant vibration that seems to somewhat increase in frequency directly with speed. Doesn't really change much when I'm on or off throttle or if I'm in neutral.


Things I’m going to try next:

• New Rear Suspension Arms: I’ve read that the diff angle is important for pinion alignment and old suspension arms can throw this off. Given the amount of vibration here I find this hard to believe, but still going to try it.
• Take the brand new rear driveshaft to a driveline shop: Has anyone had a bad OEM driveshaft? Maybe they could check the balance for me?
• 90 deg rotation on the slip yoke. Who knows, maybe this might help?
• Change direction and put slip yoke up by transfer case. Maybe this might help?
• Transfer case rear bearing: As @LJE found, his bearing was toast. But when I move around my rear driveshaft I don’t get the bearing movement like he does here.

Any other ideas here? Given all the other baselining I have been doing the truck is running great except for this issue. Driving me crazy here….

I find that subtle vibrations resonate throughout the entire chassis- mostly from transfer case to rear driveline. It’s why the engineers installed the frame weight to help mitigate that effect. If you have access to one - install it and see what if any improvement you get.

Worn control arm bushings will eventually affect pinion angle- and and subtle misalignment can cause some speed related resonance. So checking your driveline angles and making sure they are as close to 1degree variance and no more than 3degrees. Anything more or less creates driveline resonance.

Checking runout of your rear tires, wheels, rear brake discs and axle hubs would be another next step. PITA process for sure.

Or buy some K03’s to drown out the noise

 

[LJE]

Wanted to bump back up this master thread as I can’t seem to track down my issue here. I’ve read through this whole thread and it seems like while some people have issues on the front end, most of them have rear driveline issues like I do. It seems like for many of those folks, a new rear driveshaft can fix the issue, but for just as many people it doesn't seem to work. I seem to be in that boat.

First off, big thanks to @LJE for his deep exploration here. His thread is really great and you should probably also read it if you are having this problem. I still haven’t solved my issue and I didn’t want to keep clogging his thread so I wanted to post here.

I’ve changed a bunch of items with OEM parts to solve other things like the clunk. But I still have major driveline noise and vibration from 50+ mph.

Things I've changed (all OEM parts):

• Front CVs
• Front Flanges
• All new Front UCAs
• All new Front LCAs
• New No2 LCA Bushing
• All three front diff housing bushings
• New Motor Mounts
• New Trans Mount
• New Mobil 1 Syn 75-90 in front, center, and rear diff
• Repacked front bearings
• Repacked front needle carrier bearings
• Front End Alignment to OEM spec
• Rear Driveshaft
• And yes, I still have my frame weight

Things I haven’t done (yet?):

• Front driveshaft (front transfer to front diff)
• Rear Axle Bearings
• Transfer Case Bearings
• Rear Suspension Arms
• 7 Year old Michelin LTX (but still look good)
• Rear Diff?!?!?

Before I put in the new rear drive shaft, I had vibration and booming around 50-60mph. And it mostly phased out above that. Before installing the new rear driveshaft I did a test run with it out and the CDL engaged, and man was it smooth. This makes me think it is related to the rear part of the drivetrain.

With the new rear driveshaft I didn’t fix the problem. The “pitch” is higher, (maybe around 100Hz or so?) and the noise and vibration carries on across an even wider range from 50-80+mph. The whole underfloor seems to vibrate and it is especially unbearable on smooth pavement. It is not a cyclical or a "womp womp" sound. It is a constant vibration that seems to somewhat increase in frequency directly with speed. Doesn't really change much when I'm on or off throttle or if I'm in neutral.


Things I’m going to try next:

• New Rear Suspension Arms: I’ve read that the diff angle is important for pinion alignment and old suspension arms can throw this off. Given the amount of vibration here I find this hard to believe, but still going to try it.
• Take the brand new rear driveshaft to a driveline shop: Has anyone had a bad OEM driveshaft? Maybe they could check the balance for me?
• 90 deg rotation on the slip yoke. Who knows, maybe this might help?
• Change direction and put slip yoke up by transfer case. Maybe this might help?
• Transfer case rear bearing: As @LJE found, his bearing was toast. But when I move around my rear driveshaft I don’t get the bearing movement like he does here.

Any other ideas here? Given all the other baselining I have been doing the truck is running great except for this issue. Driving me crazy here….

I'm going to start a support group, hahahaha.

I'd recommend you grab an audio spectrum analyzer app for your phone (Sound Analyzer Pro is great if you're an Android guy).

It's worthwhile to look and see if:
1) can you see the resonance peak? If so, find a computer (or TV) with some decent speakers and find a YouTube video that has the same freq (like, for example, search '60hz tone') to see if it sounds the same. That's how I originally confirmed that I had identified the resonance peak from my crappy T-case output bearing. The frequency is probably low enough a cell phone won't reproduce the tone, so you need something with decent speakers.

2) assuming the above is successful, do you see this peak shift according to speed?

 

[fussychicken]

Thanks for all the comments guys! Very helpful! A few responses:

First - I didn't make sure that the two u-joints were "in phase" when I installed the rear shaft. This will cause exactly the sort of driveline vibration you describe. I fixed this by resetting the yoke to the correct orientation. I feel like, based on your description, that this is the most likely issue. I assume you've check this already? If not - start there. It's also possible that the slip yoke was inserted into the shaft 180 degrees out of where it was balanced as well.

Yes, this is a great call out. I did take apart the slip yoke in the new axle to hand grease the splines. To the best I can tell I aligned them back like they were supposed to be. To your point though, I might try a 180deg swap just to see. In the old shaft I took out, all three grease zerks were pointed in the same direction. But maybe that was wrong too? Maybe the slip yoke zerks are supposed to be opposite from the main shaft?

First and a half - Have you verified the u-joints are "loose" aka able to move around easily by hand? If they are "tight" as in take a fair bit of force to move, that can cause issues as well. USUALLY a smack with a mallet on the side of the u-joint yoke is how you free them up if they're tight. Just one smack at a time then try to move them. It's quite noticeable when they break free.

They seemed pretty smooth when I checked them, but this is a good call out. I will also give this a shot.

I don't think you have adjustable lower links, and (I would imagine) your bushings would have to be non-existent to have enough movement to ALWAYS exhibit this sort of vibration.

Yeah, that was my thinking. I would be shocked if this was just from rear sus bushings. But I'm willing to try new ones.

It’s why the engineers installed the frame weight to help mitigate that effect. If you have access to one - install it and see what if any improvement you get.

Worn control arm bushings will eventually affect pinion angle- and and subtle misalignment can cause some speed related resonance. So checking your driveline angles and making sure they are as close to 1degree variance and no more than 3degrees. Anything more or less creates driveline resonance.

I thankfully do have the frame weight and it has been on there the whole time. And yeah, going to try and check the angles even though I'm all stock here.

I'm going to start a support group, hahahaha.

I would like to be your first member! It took me nearly 2 years to solve "the clunk" so I'm going to stay dedicated to fix this as well.

I'd recommend you grab an audio spectrum analyzer app for your phone (Sound Analyzer Pro is great if you're an Android guy).

Yeah, this is also a good call out. I was also tempted to look into those vibration monitors that you install on parts to get some readings.