Build Project Patina-November 1968 FJ-40
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #462
Oh no. Not a drop. Just wondering.
Looks like it should be Spring Green (T1028), but the reference shows that as a 1970 option only.
What happens when we find out Project Patina is actually a respray from the 80's and not the original paint?
- Thread starter
- #467
Today was positively maddening.
I jumped back on the Aisin hubs and spent way way way too much time dicking with the springs. The PO of this axle had the springs in backwards. I got them all back in right and installed them and the passenger side still won't lock.
Beno sent Lou a new set he's not going to use. I'll see if they work tomorrow and if so, that's another $300 pissed into this project.
I spent an hour trying to make my cross member work with angle iron and it is just too ghetto so I punted. It's going to have to be welded and fabricated. Beyond me. I sold my welder. I need to consult @jrob on it.
So then after 3 hours wasted on hubs and crossmember I decided to install the radiator hose Beno sent me to try to get the angles right on the lower hose.
Fail. Not even close.
However.......
By moving and cutting and jiving the hose that was there and the 60 series down pipe I was able to make it right.
Of course I had to remove the alternator, bracket and fuel line to do this. Ugh.
This is good. This was my one win of the day Project Patina wise. It will use a stock FJ40 lower hose now.
I jumped back on the Aisin hubs and spent way way way too much time dicking with the springs. The PO of this axle had the springs in backwards. I got them all back in right and installed them and the passenger side still won't lock.
Beno sent Lou a new set he's not going to use. I'll see if they work tomorrow and if so, that's another $300 pissed into this project.
I spent an hour trying to make my cross member work with angle iron and it is just too ghetto so I punted. It's going to have to be welded and fabricated. Beyond me. I sold my welder. I need to consult @jrob on it.
So then after 3 hours wasted on hubs and crossmember I decided to install the radiator hose Beno sent me to try to get the angles right on the lower hose.
Fail. Not even close.
However.......
By moving and cutting and jiving the hose that was there and the 60 series down pipe I was able to make it right.
Of course I had to remove the alternator, bracket and fuel line to do this. Ugh.
This is good. This was my one win of the day Project Patina wise. It will use a stock FJ40 lower hose now.
- Thread starter
- #469
While every damn thing on the passenger side was undone, I decided to install the DUI distributor.
Here is where the OEM guys will howl. This is my first ever DUI/Trollhole combo but the guy that will tune this thing in the end @offr0adlim0 is a big fan and knows how to make the combo purr so here I am.
I read the instructions. None of it made sense. Supposedly @MScruiser amd crew set the motor at top dead center. Whatever that means. I truly have no clue.
I removed the Cruiser distrib noting the position of the Dizzy and rhe slot inside the motor.
Then I got the new one in and the slot is right in the motor but when I got it seated the dizzy rotated here.
Problem?
If so, should I just not worry about it until someone who knows what's what looks at it?
Not a problem? Cool. I'll gap the plugs and install the wires and be one step closer.
Here is where the OEM guys will howl. This is my first ever DUI/Trollhole combo but the guy that will tune this thing in the end @offr0adlim0 is a big fan and knows how to make the combo purr so here I am.
I read the instructions. None of it made sense. Supposedly @MScruiser amd crew set the motor at top dead center. Whatever that means. I truly have no clue.
I removed the Cruiser distrib noting the position of the Dizzy and rhe slot inside the motor.
Then I got the new one in and the slot is right in the motor but when I got it seated the dizzy rotated here.
Problem?
If so, should I just not worry about it until someone who knows what's what looks at it?
Not a problem? Cool. I'll gap the plugs and install the wires and be one step closer.
Dizzy should be pointed to roughly the #5 cylinder (aka: spark plug) when inserted and seated at the correct position. At least with the OEM units.
I assume the DUI is the same.
The most important thing obviously is making sure the dizzy shaft is engaged with the oil pump.
I assume the DUI is the same.
The most important thing obviously is making sure the dizzy shaft is engaged with the oil pump.
- Thread starter
- #471
I'm in the doldrums. No progress. Maddening.
Looks like it is just 180 degrees out. Can you just spin the shaft 180 and put it in?
Pick the right tooth on the gear that gets the rotor pointed the right way. The slot in the motor (oil pump) will just spin freely.
Pick the right tooth on the gear that gets the rotor pointed the right way. The slot in the motor (oil pump) will just spin freely.
- Thread starter
- #474
Well, it's not pointed at that by its obvious when it seats. It goes ally
I should be able to. I was focused on it pointing the way it was when out not at a #5
You will need to start inserting the dizzy with the rotor pointed roughly toward the vacuum ports in that first pic or, in other words, just past the 6:00 position. As the gears start to mesh the rotor will turn slightly clockwise until it fully seats. Then compare the rotor position to the position it was in with the first dizzy. You could easily be off by a tooth in either direction so be prepared to rinse and repeat till it lands in the right spot. As The Turk warned... It is MOST important that the slot at the bottom of the hole lines up with the blade on the new dizzy. That's what drives your oil pump so ruination will ensue if you get it wrong.
Looks like dizzy was removed on the exhaust stroke 180* out. Leave dizzy out and set engine to top dead center. You can pull the valve cover to verify both intake and exhaust valves are closed on cylinder #1. Drop the dizzy in making sure it enguages fully with the oil pump drive. Then look at where the rotor is pointing and install plug wire for #1 there. Then follow the firing order for the remaining 5 plug wires. That should get you close enough to run and fine tuning can be done later.
- Thread starter
- #478
Greek. Holy s***.
Seriously. It's likely going to end up in your bay for the first fire.
I think I'm going to move on to s*** I can do.
I'm getting close to the end of the above which is a good and a bad thing.
Seriously. It's likely going to end up in your bay for the first fire.
I think I'm going to move on to s*** I can do.
I'm getting close to the end of the above which is a good and a bad thing.
Man you can do it after all the stuff you have already done. I had reinstall a DUI in my old 78 after getting it rebuilt by performance. It wasn't too bad after figuring out what you are looking for with top dead center. Granted I also had the help of cruiser maestro Greg. I think I found some directions with pics and we used a chiltons to figure out firing order etc but you have Rob's straightforward description above.