Build Project Patina-November 1968 FJ-40
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #482
It's a balancing act of me going all in pretending like I know what I am doing to this horrid tech thing you speak of.
I am likely going to wait for someone that knows what a lifter and a top dead center look like before I go there.
Meanwhile I've got a fuel system to plumb. Fluids to fill. Lights to mount. All this high tech stuff.
Go back and read Rob's last post. If you have the valve cover off, it's cake. You may have to rotate the engine two revolutions to feel good about where you are, but the two valves on #1 and the timing marks will confirm you're "within range." Then, like Rob said, you can fine tune from there......
On a related issue (vehicle-wise): Toyota Land Cruiser Touchup Paint Codes, Image Galleries, Brochure and TV Commercial Archives Like JTTMFT said, Spring Green is listed as a '70 color only, but we all know reference documents can be wrong. The Spring Green "sample" certainly looks like your color. Click on the Spring Green name (not the color itself) on the color chart, and it will pull up photos of trucks in that color
- Thread starter
- #485
Thanks DNP. I am 90% sure I got it right. I rotated it 180* like Bossman said and it dropped right in and the dizzy pointed exactly where the other one was.
Small win.
I left it alone and decided to do something easy to get a sense of accomplishment to end the weekend.
I tried to install the tail lights. They are listed as 1965-74 but they are really 1969-74. Mine were smaller. And the brackets don't line up and the PO welded some s*** here so I had to grind and worse......had to drill 2 holes in the frame. One each side. These frames are a bitch to drill.
Of course once I got them installed after WAY too much effort, I did not have the 8 5mm nuts needed to "finish" the job...this lead to me digging through 21 years of OEM nut and bolt containers looking for one. Just one 5mm nut.
I will tell you. I have at least 1000 OEM bolts. At least 200 OEM nuts but I have zero. None. Nada 5mm nuts.
1/2 win reduced to 1/4 win due to 90 minutes wasted looking for nuts.
Small win.
I left it alone and decided to do something easy to get a sense of accomplishment to end the weekend.
I tried to install the tail lights. They are listed as 1965-74 but they are really 1969-74. Mine were smaller. And the brackets don't line up and the PO welded some s*** here so I had to grind and worse......had to drill 2 holes in the frame. One each side. These frames are a bitch to drill.
Of course once I got them installed after WAY too much effort, I did not have the 8 5mm nuts needed to "finish" the job...this lead to me digging through 21 years of OEM nut and bolt containers looking for one. Just one 5mm nut.
I will tell you. I have at least 1000 OEM bolts. At least 200 OEM nuts but I have zero. None. Nada 5mm nuts.
1/2 win reduced to 1/4 win due to 90 minutes wasted looking for nuts.
- Thread starter
- #486
Another win. Found the correct lower radiator hose in my stash.
Reduced to 3/4 win because of my 2 bling OEM hose clamps, one was correct OD one was not.
Lastly, I got the brakes tied together over on the passenger frame. I need to trim this tab off but rear is going through a Wilwood proportion valve and the front through 1/2 of the connector Lash gave me.
Need to tidy up but this is a win to end up a negative weekend with.
Reduced to 3/4 win because of my 2 bling OEM hose clamps, one was correct OD one was not.
Lastly, I got the brakes tied together over on the passenger frame. I need to trim this tab off but rear is going through a Wilwood proportion valve and the front through 1/2 of the connector Lash gave me.
Need to tidy up but this is a win to end up a negative weekend with.
- Thread starter
- #488
Yours is looking good Lou.......
Can someone help me with the Part Number for the stock steering stabilizer. I went to NAPA and they looked at me like I had a hole in my head.
It is universal replacement. NOT the OEM not the OME......the former is $125 the latter is $75......the Napa cheapo is $35ish......I just need a P/N please.
Can someone help me with the Part Number for the stock steering stabilizer. I went to NAPA and they looked at me like I had a hole in my head.
It is universal replacement. NOT the OEM not the OME......the former is $125 the latter is $75......the Napa cheapo is $35ish......I just need a P/N please.
thanks. in for the part number of EL Cheap-o as well....
SC2916
- Thread starter
- #492
The hubs.
Sigh. The hubs.
So. @beno sent Lou some hubs. I figured I'd give brand new ones a whirl.
Nope.
The birfield shafts are too long.
After a consult with Fc187 I got it to work with just a 8mm nut on the end. No washer though. That was too much.
Brand new Aisin hubs are pimp. I could not get the one spring right so I got one new hub one old hub.
So.....what is the deal with this longer birfield? I've heard talk of a longer birf in Pigs that had the fabled deep Aisin hubs that the locking hub 80 crowd pay big money for. @Bossman referred to them.
I think I have the longer birfs with the standard 40 hubs.
If that ever happens to you which it NEVER will. Use a 8mm nut to keep the Birf from walking and bolt that s*** up.
Win. Done. Works.
Lose. Hours lost dicking with this s*** and another $150 to Beno for a hub.
Of course he sells them in pairs so now I have a new hub. For sale. Lol
Sigh. The hubs.
So. @beno sent Lou some hubs. I figured I'd give brand new ones a whirl.
Nope.
The birfield shafts are too long.
After a consult with Fc187 I got it to work with just a 8mm nut on the end. No washer though. That was too much.
Brand new Aisin hubs are pimp. I could not get the one spring right so I got one new hub one old hub.
So.....what is the deal with this longer birfield? I've heard talk of a longer birf in Pigs that had the fabled deep Aisin hubs that the locking hub 80 crowd pay big money for. @Bossman referred to them.
I think I have the longer birfs with the standard 40 hubs.
If that ever happens to you which it NEVER will. Use a 8mm nut to keep the Birf from walking and bolt that s*** up.
Win. Done. Works.
Lose. Hours lost dicking with this s*** and another $150 to Beno for a hub.
Of course he sells them in pairs so now I have a new hub. For sale. Lol
- Thread starter
- #494
The old hub and the new hub are identical. If I have the mythical long birfield, I don't have the mythical long hub to match it. This thing is not going anywhere under its own power for a while so if you want these birfs, I will rip this front apart and get them out for you, just need the correct one......I will gladly use the small 75-77 ones, I don't need the "big" ones or as it seems, the long ones LOL
For the record, it works as is. Nut or no nut. I locked and unlocked and spun the pinion. If these magic birfs are useless I am calling it good.
For the record, it works as is. Nut or no nut. I locked and unlocked and spun the pinion. If these magic birfs are useless I am calling it good.
You are confusing some old school methods for controlling the movement of the birf. The objective is to keep the birf from going too far in not out so that bolt in the end of the shaft is doing nothing for you. IF your birf was too short for the hub it is common to use a bolt and a fender washer slightly larger than the diameter of the shaft to keep the birf spaced our WHEN the snap ring can't be used. You need the snap ring on there and do not need the bolt in the end. If the cap of the old hub will go on without interference we can get them working as they should.
- Thread starter
- #496
The cap on the old hub and the new hub are the same.
I screwed up the spring and the internal on one of the old hubs, got tired of dicking with it and used one new hub. Cap only, the base from the old hub (which was identical) was already cone washered on and I did not remove it.
One side has the hub that came with the axle, one has the hub body from the old axle and a new cap on it.
The birfield shafts are longer than normal.
Not sure why.
Pig axle? Yes. The pads on the axle tell that tale.
As I said, it works as is.
If I put the snap ring on the cap will go on but it is forced on and the hub will not turn. The base is about 1/16" too shallow.
Pull the snap rings and they work.
Fot the record, it did not have snap rings when we took it apart.
I screwed up the spring and the internal on one of the old hubs, got tired of dicking with it and used one new hub. Cap only, the base from the old hub (which was identical) was already cone washered on and I did not remove it.
One side has the hub that came with the axle, one has the hub body from the old axle and a new cap on it.
The birfield shafts are longer than normal.
Not sure why.
Pig axle? Yes. The pads on the axle tell that tale.
As I said, it works as is.
If I put the snap ring on the cap will go on but it is forced on and the hub will not turn. The base is about 1/16" too shallow.
Pull the snap rings and they work.
Fot the record, it did not have snap rings when we took it apart.
You planning on cutting a new snap ring groove?
- Joined
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If it is a pig axle, then it most likely has the long birf. The new hubs are short. They will not work, as you have discovered.
Do not attempt to run them without the outer snap ring installed. The outer CV needs to be pulled completely out against the spindle so the virtual center will line up with steering axis of the knuckle. If the birf falls back in (or is pushed in by the short hub) then steering jammage ensues because the trunnnion bearings are not aligned with the CV center. It's like having a door where the top & bottom hinges are in alignment but the middle hinge is off an inch. OK as long as the door is never actually swung.
Do not attempt to run them without the outer snap ring installed. The outer CV needs to be pulled completely out against the spindle so the virtual center will line up with steering axis of the knuckle. If the birf falls back in (or is pushed in by the short hub) then steering jammage ensues because the trunnnion bearings are not aligned with the CV center. It's like having a door where the top & bottom hinges are in alignment but the middle hinge is off an inch. OK as long as the door is never actually swung.
- Thread starter
- #499
Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu this fuuuuuuuuuuuu of a fuuuuuuuuuuu of a fuuuu.
I'm pulling it all out and making it a 2wd.
So. I see two fixes.
Long mythical hubs or pull ALL this s*** apart and put in new birfields.
Can I take fuuuuuuuuuuuuuu for $1000 Pat?
I'm pulling it all out and making it a 2wd.
So. I see two fixes.
Long mythical hubs or pull ALL this s*** apart and put in new birfields.
Can I take fuuuuuuuuuuuuuu for $1000 Pat?
