Project LandROC

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Day 66

I wanted to get rid of all the body seams I could. So I welded them up and then grinded them smooth. Hopefully with a little bondo I’ll never know they were there.
 
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Day 67

I found some body damage; it might have been done by the factory because I can seem to tell that it has been repainted before. And it really dose seem like this is all factory original paint. Anyways it wasn’t that bad and I straighten most of it out already. Not bad for my first attempt at auto body work.

There is one small section (the red circle in the picture below) that I can not get straight for the life of me. Its one of those dents that either pops in or out. I can’t seem to get it to flatten out. It pops in and out about ¼ of an inch. I wanted to get everything at least straight by 1/8 of an inch. I didn’t want to use that much bondo.

Anybody have any ideas? Do I need to heat it up maybe? Please help….
 
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Heat is your friend on those types of dents. Oxy with a pick and work around the edge. It will shrink down nicely.
 
Could you post up a couple of pics of what you did do shrink this up and of what a pick is? Not familiar with the terminology...:confused:

Keep up the good work!
 
@ twoturtlesracing, all I did was popped the dent outwards and heated the edges of the dent (where the dent starts to stick out). Once the dent was hot, I hit it down with a pick / hammer with a dolly behind it. I use an inexpensive auto body hammer kit from Harbor Fright (one of the 3 hammers has a pick side to it and it also comes with 3 dollies). See link below. If you still want some more information please let me know. I will try to help you out the best I can.

7 Piece Body and Fender Set - Auto Body - Automotive & Motorcycle
 
Makes sense to me! Thanks for posting up a response to my question.

I am ignorant about body work though, so I do have one more question: doesn't the pick side of your body hammer leave a tiny concave dent in your metal? If so, how do you deal with that? Is it just par for the course and you fill it with bondo? How come you don't use a broader hammer face?

Sorry if I'm asking a dumb question, but I'm getting ready to start bodywork on my 'Cruiser and am trying to learn all that I can!
Thanks again!:cheers:
 
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Days 68 & 69

I started working my way around the back; patching and filling in all the unnecessary holes that I was not going to use. I even filled in the ones under the wheel wells. After awhile I kind of got a little board doing that so I started on my half doors project. I went with the standard 50/50 zigzag split at 150 degrees. I bought some angle iron and some rectangular tub and plan on trying something a little different buy adding a pocket / grab handle up top. Well see how it turns out.
 
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What are you planning to do with the rear wheel well openings - leave em alone or cut?
 
@ twoturtlesracing, yes the pick side leaves little concave dents. You use the pick side to hammer down the small dents. Then I used the other side of the hammer after to help clean everything up. And then bondo should take care of the rest. All this is new to me I have never done any hammer work ever. Its not that hard, it just takes patients. Good luck with your build!

@ miker, I going to leave the rear wheel openings alone. I hope to squeeze 36” tires in there if I can.
 
I had a major setback today. One of the extra doors a bought for my half door project is unfixable to my standards. Anybody know a good lead on a set of door(s)? All I really need is the passenger side lower skin only (old style). But I might consider a complete set (new or old style). Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Days 70 - 72

I almost finished up all the body work on the tub. I have patched all the hole that I am not going to use, cut any cancer spots out and replaced them and filled in all the body seems that are going visible. I’m still waiting for a donor rear quarter panel to show up to complete the job. Then it’s off to the media blasters.
 
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I am ignorant about body work though, so I do have one more question: doesn't the pick side of your body hammer leave a tiny concave dent in your metal? If so, how do you deal with that? Is it just par for the course and you fill it with bondo? How come you don't use a broader hammer face?

Sorry if I'm asking a dumb question, but I'm getting ready to start bodywork on my 'Cruiser and am trying to learn all that I can!
Thanks again!:cheers:

You can also use a "slapper" instead. Its easier to work with and more foregiving, the pick is old school but still effective at simple dents. You can Google auto body slapper and get some good ideas as to how to use etc.
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I know VolcanicIceberg has a '66 that he is parting out. Pretty sure the doors are still for sale. They are solid.
 
You can also use a "slapper" instead. Its easier to work with and more foregiving, the pick is old school but still effective at simple dents. You can Google auto body slapper and get some good ideas as to how to use etc.

Thanks for the info, I'll check it out!
 
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Answer questions

@ 2fpower, thanks for the link. They came out great! I kind of wanted to keep the door as stock looking as possible so I am going to try adding a pocket / handle up top if I can. Will see how it turns out but thanks you for the ideas.

@ apeterson, I filled the body lines because I wanted everything to be smooth. Plus I didn’t want anything to crack in the future.

@ thecrazygreek, I never heard of a slapper. Looks pretty cool. Thanks for the information, I definitely try that out next time.

@ miker, the back passenger side rear panel has a little cancer right on top were the top meets the tub. Its right where the bend / curve is. It really isn’t that bad and I most likely could have fixed it but I decided just to cut and replace. I didn’t want to deal with cancer popping up under a fresh paint job in a year or so. Check out the picture in below.

@ misterpepper, thanks for the heads up on the door. I sent Volcanic Iceberg a post.
 
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Days 73-77

I finally put some hours back into it in the between holidays. I finished all the body prep work on the tub; cut and replaced the right rear corner panel, relocated the gas tank filler cap and patched all the unused holes on the entire tub, fenders, aprons and transmission cover.
 
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