CLCC Trivia -- whose engine does this belong to?
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stumpalama
- Start date
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CrabCake
SILVER Star
Someone with a smoker in their cooking arsenal!
CrabCake
SILVER Star
Got my diff clusters ready for reinstall hopefully tomorrow….and got the Solo Surround now that I have 2 of 3 grandbabies mobile and coming over for dinner tomorrow night.
No modification 2m/70cm Radio install in a 2.5 gen Tundra.
"Compactenna" is a compromise, I have not tested SWR yet. Mounted a on a Rago Ditch light bracket milled out for the NMO mount. Routed the coax through the cabin air intake/windshield washer plenum and back out with the wiring harness.
Ribbon cable for control head fit perfectly in the console trim panel front joint and routed back through the console to the floor carpet seam by the console box. I have not decided what to do with the handmic yet. It attaches to the the main body of the radio and not the faceplate.
Main unit fit nicely on an aftermarket bracket made for fire extinguishers.
"Compactenna" is a compromise, I have not tested SWR yet. Mounted a on a Rago Ditch light bracket milled out for the NMO mount. Routed the coax through the cabin air intake/windshield washer plenum and back out with the wiring harness.
Ribbon cable for control head fit perfectly in the console trim panel front joint and routed back through the console to the floor carpet seam by the console box. I have not decided what to do with the handmic yet. It attaches to the the main body of the radio and not the faceplate.
Main unit fit nicely on an aftermarket bracket made for fire extinguishers.
kevin in okinawa
SILVER Star
Did the rear springs/bumpstops plus AHC fluid and globes with @kouki on Saturday.
Truck made it to 305k miles with no AHC maintenance records, I’m realizing now that it was super bumpy for all the time I’ve had it… drives so much better now, and I still haven’t calibrated it or replaced the bushings yet.
Truck made it to 305k miles with no AHC maintenance records, I’m realizing now that it was super bumpy for all the time I’ve had it… drives so much better now, and I still haven’t calibrated it or replaced the bushings yet.
kevin in okinawa
SILVER Star
Nice job Liam!
For those that ever plan a Windrock trip; I highly recommend considering a combo trip and get a lake house on Norris Lake. It’s about 45 mins from the main Windrock store (main entrance), but there are numerous entrances to the park within 20 mins of Norris. I can give you locations for those entrances, or they’re very easy to find with a little bit of research.
It doesn’t get much better than a long day of wheeling and then jumping right in the lake. The Windrock bath house can also be atrocious when there is a major event going on like ATR or GSMTR. Their open field camping is nothing special (The Cove is much better IMO). We had a luxury house for less than $100 per person, per night. Renting a pontoon and cruising the lake was icing on the cake.
It doesn’t get much better than a long day of wheeling and then jumping right in the lake. The Windrock bath house can also be atrocious when there is a major event going on like ATR or GSMTR. Their open field camping is nothing special (The Cove is much better IMO). We had a luxury house for less than $100 per person, per night. Renting a pontoon and cruising the lake was icing on the cake.
Diff Kraken
SILVER Star
This looks dope.
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1MOA
SILVER Star
I miss my conversations on 2M with other hams. The nets in the Shenandoah valley are nowhere near as active as Warrenton. My days for the last week have been nothing but working on hay harvesting.
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That is a good view.
The 2m and 440m analog ragchew community seems dead or dying just about everywhere. Here in the DC area there are more repeaters per square mile than anywhere I have lived. All pretty much silent aside from the weekly nets.
Went to replace a leaking rear differential drive pinion seal; also found that the rear housing cover had started leaking from the bottom bolt. There was no gasket on the housing cover, only RTV.
I have not closed anything up yet while I:
1- wait on a housing cover gasket to come in
2- second guess what is below the pinion bearing. It should be a shim and washer and I can just torque away, but could be a crush sleeve since this has been apart. I am not confident setting preload.
The old oil seal was in rough shape and the rubber brittle. The old pinion nut is 30mm.
The flange surface where the seal will ride also gives some pause. It is not deep or sharp enough to catch a razor, but you can feel it.
I have not closed anything up yet while I:
1- wait on a housing cover gasket to come in
2- second guess what is below the pinion bearing. It should be a shim and washer and I can just torque away, but could be a crush sleeve since this has been apart. I am not confident setting preload.
The old oil seal was in rough shape and the rubber brittle. The old pinion nut is 30mm.
The flange surface where the seal will ride also gives some pause. It is not deep or sharp enough to catch a razor, but you can feel it.
Chris...hands down.
What gave it away? The pellet grill box?
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
Speedy sleeve will cover that.
It did
Waiting for a block of free time this coming weekend to get it back together.
CrabCake
SILVER Star
Got a set of NLA (closed shop) Shrockworks sliders for the 4Runner on Marketplace for $500. These things are beefy, DOM tubing that bolt to the frame using existing holes with captive nuts on tabs to fish through the frame. No bump out, just a 30% rake....exactly how I would order if I specified myself. PO's wife is short and complained about getting into his truck, so he reverted to some auto drop steps. Never been off road, nor will they most likely on mine either (work DD), but I love the protection that they offer and look awesome too.
Nice. Just like the Slee's on my green 80.
imperium
SILVER Star
Hope to have mine installed by tomorrow before the meetup but we'll see. Those look great!
It did
Waiting for a block of free time this coming weekend to get it back together.
View attachment 3739297
hi ,
did you already complete this repair , the flange above you speedy-sleeved ?
- you discuss the whole leaking rear service cover & just some silly Trac-Auto RTV
- you bring up the all important crush-sleeve too .....
- you never install a new OEM hex nut on any axle flange or gear box , unless its last resort ,,,,,
- you have the original nut in your photo and its perfect to simply re-install and kid-gloves style a bit at a time as it begins to get near the lowest torque value specified in the FSM , you tighten that same Flange nut to exactly the same Stake-Detent mark location it was prior to removal ....
and NOT a single Newton Meter more ......Re-Stake that same spot well using a squared-odd center punch to match that profile and size spec on the pinion gear itself . Send the stake home same location as it was before . Presto ... you have NOT changed the crush sleave 1 bit , your also Not too loose either ....
make sense ...?
if you apply 00295-01281 Oarnge Trans Axle Sealer FIPG liquid sealer to the prepped clean surface of the axle tube , both sides of the new OEM Gasket , and also the prepped clean surface of the service cover too , ALL 4 stand alone locations , then you have what is termed as a " Wet-Tack-Down " use a little natural horse hair Acid Brush w/ metal tube handle , you get at home depot 3pack $1.99
you apply a even tad-bit thicker then a thin skim coat , and once you star-pattern down all the hex-nuts and spring washers .....
don't touch any that squeezes out for like 2-3 days or longer , ...fyi
- see , the OEM Toyota 00295-01281 is a NON-Hardening sealer type , it remains semi-flexible over the long term , after few days , you can peal and feel what i am describing as you will see it will have the consistency much like Play-Dou
- i also coat ALL male splines and female splines , using a more generous amount , using a few common house hold cue-tips , they are idea because you can spread the FIPG in all the female splines like Clock-Work Smurf and achieve the all important Wet Tack factor too , failing to seal up the splines will eventually lead to a seeping factor to a leaking factor you might never really see or notice because like Spider Gear grease and zerk fittings it gets slung off in all 360' degree pattern directions including up under the chassis ....
this is the way ....
.
