Yes, barely! My friends were laughing at me at the thought of being stuck in the garage.
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stumpalama
- Start date
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I think I made another bad life choice...
I'll need a steady reliable source for puppies!
Actually, its currently running on 4/5 cylinders. My guess is a bad injector toasted piston. I'll know more when I get around to pulling the head.
Anyone know a good machine shop in the area, preferably with mercedes diesel experience?
Anyone know a good machine shop in the area, preferably with mercedes diesel experience?
DustyFJ
SILVER Star
False, looks like a good rig for long distance trips.
1MOA
SILVER Star
Change both the fuel filters first and see what happens. the sprinters get amazing mileage because they atomize the fuel much finer than other diesels but to do that the filters are very fine and clog quickly ( like every 15K miles.)
They also rust worse than a toyota so be prepared. I looked at them for my company vans and they are mechanically awesome but expensive to fix when they break because of that Mercedes emblem. There is a excellent mechanic in Manassas that works on them at Hartman Fleet services.
B!tches. Lots of b!tches.
Sort of plus some brick. I can’t wait to move and have a bigger garage!
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
Park it on the street next to their driveway so when it marks it's territory, your section of street/driveway isn't fouled.
This is why my requirements for my next house were 1. No HOA and 2. Plenty of parking. Once I close on the house, I'll probably start snatching up every reasonably priced 80 in the area.
Braking was decent but was pretty sure I had a blown internal seal on the cheapie the PO has installed. Booster seems fine and has new silicone vacuum hose.
Today I endeavored on my first brake work. Bench bleeding and installing a new Advics/Aisin master cylinder.....I failed. It’s the 85-90 60 series master from fjparts.com.
I build what seems like good pressure when the car is off but the brakes can’t even hold the vehicle with the engine running.
•clean and prepped mounting area on booster
•ghetto kitchen bench bleed but seemed effective
•had the wifey pump the brakes while I bled the master cylinder
•with not enough pressure I adjusted the booster rod (albeit by trial and error/by feel since I don’t have the special tool)
•no improvement so adjusted the pedal travel (which always seemed out of spec). It now moves 3-6 mm before engaging per the manual.
I haven’t dug into the FSM further but the only thing I can think is I accidentally let in a ton of air. I think I accidentally had my wife let off the pedal before snugging the fittings.
I was planning to do a full flush and bleed anyway so will tackle that tomorrow.
However, I’m concerned because it builds pressure with the engine off which I would think means minimal air in the system.
Beyond the main issue I noticed two other things...might mean nothing. When bleeding the master on the truck the fluid didn’t shoot out like on the best YouTube video I found. also, the pedal travel feels short but I think that it’s just because it’s so soft. Car was on a very slight incline (nose down).
what did I eff up?
props to @JohnVee for pointing out I posted my full name and address *facepalm*
Today I endeavored on my first brake work. Bench bleeding and installing a new Advics/Aisin master cylinder.....I failed. It’s the 85-90 60 series master from fjparts.com.
I build what seems like good pressure when the car is off but the brakes can’t even hold the vehicle with the engine running.
•clean and prepped mounting area on booster
•ghetto kitchen bench bleed but seemed effective
•had the wifey pump the brakes while I bled the master cylinder
•with not enough pressure I adjusted the booster rod (albeit by trial and error/by feel since I don’t have the special tool)
•no improvement so adjusted the pedal travel (which always seemed out of spec). It now moves 3-6 mm before engaging per the manual.
I haven’t dug into the FSM further but the only thing I can think is I accidentally let in a ton of air. I think I accidentally had my wife let off the pedal before snugging the fittings.
I was planning to do a full flush and bleed anyway so will tackle that tomorrow.
However, I’m concerned because it builds pressure with the engine off which I would think means minimal air in the system.
Beyond the main issue I noticed two other things...might mean nothing. When bleeding the master on the truck the fluid didn’t shoot out like on the best YouTube video I found. also, the pedal travel feels short but I think that it’s just because it’s so soft. Car was on a very slight incline (nose down).
what did I eff up?
props to @JohnVee for pointing out I posted my full name and address *facepalm*
Last edited:
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
- Thread starter
- #2,717
I see your set up, but I don't see hoses going back into the reservoir. I trust you did that when bench bleeding.Braking was decent but was pretty sure I had a blown internal seal on the cheapie the PO has installed. Booster seems fine and has new silicone vacuum hose.
Today I endeavored on my first brake work. Bench bleeding and installing a new Advics/Aisin master cylinder.....I failed. It’s the 85-90 60 series master from fjparts.com.
I build what seems like good pressure when the car is off but the brakes can’t even hold the vehicle with the engine running.
•clean and prepped mounting area on booster
•ghetto kitchen bench bleed but seemed effective
•had the wifey pump the brakes while I bled the master cylinder
•with not enough pressure I adjusted the booster rod (albeit by trial and error/by feel since I don’t have the special tool)
•no improvement so adjusted the pedal travel (which always seemed out of spec). It now moves 3-6 mm before engaging per the manual.
I haven’t dug into the FSM further but the only thing I can think is I accidentally let in a ton of air. I think I accidentally had my wife let off the pedal before snugging the fittings.
I was planning to do a full flush and bleed anyway so will tackle that tomorrow.
However, I’m concerned because it builds pressure with the engine off which I would think means minimal air in the system.
Beyond the main issue I noticed two other things...might mean nothing. When bleeding the master on the truck the fluid didn’t shoot out like on the best YouTube video I found. also, the pedal travel feels short but I think that it’s just because it’s so soft. Car was on a very slight incline (nose down).
what did I eff up?
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props to @JohnVee for pointing out I posted my full name and address *facepalm*
Also, I suspect that you did not properly measure the booster rod and so you are not getting full travel of the master cylinder.
Also, clean off the areas around your bleeders and master and check for leakage. On more thing, you might want to check your rear brake cylinders, inside the drums, to make sure they are not leaking.
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
- Thread starter
- #2,718
Lift and sliders installed on the 4Runner.
Huge thanks to @Jakes40, @NoVaSteve, and @TRFCSUX for their indispensable help in tackling this job.
Started around 10AM and finished by 4:30PM (the same day) with a lunch break added in.
We installed the Toytec Boss 3" lift and White Knuckle Off Road sliders.
Truck has a solid 3" lift and an even stance. It rides much better than the 171k suspension we pulled out. The old rear shocks were extremely soft and one didn't even extend for a solid 2 minutes after compressing.
Huge thanks to @Jakes40, @NoVaSteve, and @TRFCSUX for their indispensable help in tackling this job.
Started around 10AM and finished by 4:30PM (the same day) with a lunch break added in.
We installed the Toytec Boss 3" lift and White Knuckle Off Road sliders.
Truck has a solid 3" lift and an even stance. It rides much better than the 171k suspension we pulled out. The old rear shocks were extremely soft and one didn't even extend for a solid 2 minutes after compressing.
How do you connect the tubes to the front and rear ports? I some where people just pressed their fingers over the port.
I found a method for measure the pushrod with calipers and a straight edge so will be re-doing that. I think the pushrod might actually be contacting a bit. Will check the wheel cylinders tomorrow as well.
Any tips on bleeding the LSPV? I feel like I heard somewhere to zip tie it up to help with bleeding.
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
Cruisers seem to take a ton of fluid to bleed. When you think you've bled a ton, double that. We usually run several Liters through. When you did the master did you rebleed all of the wheel bleeders afterwards?
