Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (4 Viewers)

Has your 100 series LC experienced total -or near total- brake failure?

  • No.

    Votes: 1,262 73.0%
  • Yes. My truck had between 0 and 50k miles at the time.

    Votes: 1 0.1%
  • Yes. My truck had between 50k and 100K at the time.

    Votes: 14 0.8%
  • Yes. My truck had between 100K and 150k at the time.

    Votes: 72 4.2%
  • Yes. My truck had between 150k and 200k at the time.

    Votes: 145 8.4%
  • Yes. My truck had between 200k and 250K at the time.

    Votes: 138 8.0%
  • Yes. My truck had between 250k and 300k at the time.

    Votes: 75 4.3%
  • Yes, My truck had over 300k at the time.

    Votes: 41 2.4%

  • Total voters
    1,728

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My truck is a southeastern truck. The usage since I bought it has been lots of city driving.

Has your truck experienced a failure? Mine has not (at least yet). It has 210K miles on it and has been a Texas truck all its life. Best I can tell...the PO put a mixture of highway and city driving on it. (Houston area).
 
Has your truck experienced a failure? Mine has not (at least yet). It has 210K miles on it and has been a Texas truck all its life. Best I can tell...the PO put a mixture of highway and city driving on it. (Houston area).

Yes, booster pump failure at 290k. ABS code 56 which indicated high/low pressure sensors, brake booster pump. Replaced the master cylinder and booster pump with a used master cylinder with rebuilt pump from EBAY. Cost me $805 then received a $300 core refund so I ended up at $505.
 
I have not had total failure yet, but I just bought a 2006LX with just over 200k on it, wish I would of found this thread first. My brake pedal slowly falls to the floor while I am at a stop. Brakes normally in all other scenarios, but this has got me worried. No codes or buzzers.

The whole reason I sold my 80 to buy a 100 was to have a safer cruiser for my new baby. Between the new baby and my 2 jobs there is no way ill have the time to tackle a rebuild, it will be a Slee or dealer fix.
You may have a leak. Bring it by and I'll take a look if you like.
 
updating time.
You should be able to change your earlier vote if you experienced failure since.
 
Just finished my repair of the master cylinder. Within 2 weeks of ownership, no less. My lights came on....I didn't have any catastrophic failure of the system, but I parked it and got it fixed before that. On teardown, the only thing I noticed was massively corroded terminals (in fact I destroyed my master cylinder trying to get the motor terminals apart on the cylinder side).

At this point I'm assuming it was the corrosion causing the pump to get less voltage and take too long to pump the accumulator, so it flashed the code, and luckily the system was repaired BEFORE losing the brakes on the freeway........or black bear pass...

2003 LX470 125k.
 
I had 1 total brake failure in a 00LX w/270K miles. It actually happen to PO, I just repaired. PO drove past the early warning squeal of ware pad indicator. Kept driving and braking right though remain pad and it's ~1/2" thick steel backing plate. They continued driving right though caliper steel piston until seal was out of caliper. All fluid dump out and as they continue driving and pumping brakes until emptied reservoir.
00LX 270k (2).JPG

Brake line failure is issue with aging fleet. But even having a brake line leak we still have some brake as long as reservoir has fluid. Each lines comes off master independently. Here we lose some pressure in master from lack of back pressure of ruptured line. Fluid will just run out a rupture in back brake line with key on and foot on brake pedal, fronts leak on each press of pedal. Just sitting parked it will leak out a rupture draining reservoir over time. No Fluid no brakes!

Booster pump, motor or accumulator failure. So many think they have no brakes when booster pump, motor or accumulator fails. They press on brake pedal and feel no back pressure. But actually there is limit braking at bottom of pedal. Just not very good and one must press very hard, as no booster assistance pressure. Additional some pressure maybe lost back into accumulator.

Inspecting fluid, brakes pads, calipers and lines annually is so important.;) Being vigilant to lights & sounds is key:eek:!
 
Just finished my repair of the master cylinder. Within 2 weeks of ownership, no less. My lights came on....I didn't have any catastrophic failure of the system, but I parked it and got it fixed before that. On teardown, the only thing I noticed was massively corroded terminals (in fact I destroyed my master cylinder trying to get the motor terminals apart on the cylinder side).

At this point I'm assuming it was the corrosion causing the pump to get less voltage and take too long to pump the accumulator, so it flashed the code, and luckily the system was repaired BEFORE losing the brakes on the freeway........or black bear pass...

2003 LX470 125k.

I also had very corroded terminals, but ended up replacing the entire brake mechanism: master cylinder & electric motor.
 
^ needs to be done several times per year...if you expect it to even sorta, kinda work :bang:

Just picked up a 2002 LX470 from a relative they owned since 2003. Working the rear brakes now (rotors. Caliper bracket & ceramic pads. Plus splicing a cut/broken right rear abs sensor wire).

Is the e brake that weak? Thanks
Plus I’ll check again on brake failure and vote in the poll?
 
^ yes.
 
Not sure how to vote on this one. I've had two brake booster failures in a period of 10 years and about 300k but never lost brakes entirely. One time long ago shortly after 100k, brake light came on, no alarm. Took to dealer, they replaced booster pump only, less than 300 miles later, I noticed a brake fluid leak near the master cylinder so the closest dealer replaced the entire master cylinder assembly. Problem solved.

Then earlier this year, around 370k I got the brake light and alarm. Lost power brakes after 3 or 4 stops, but had manual brakes until I could get another complete master assembly delivered and installed.

Both times, I could hear the electric booster pump getting noticeably louder before it activated the brake light.
 
No. '03 w/ 140k and change
 
No.
Not yet... just got it last month.
99 LC. 141,500 miles.
Had the fluid exchanged with new brake pads all around and new front rotors. Now it time to drive it!
 
No. 1999 with 150k.

For those that have gone through this, can you explain what you did to stop? Engine brake? Pumping the pedal?

See post #168, now three years ago, knock on wood -"So #justayin what happened in my rig. The lights and buzz went off once and the brakes still worked. I parked, turned it off, filled up with gas, turned it on and started driving toward the exit onto the main road. No lights or buzz after it started. As I approached the road and pressed the brakes, nothing. With the brakes all the way to the floor. Had to immediately pull the e-brake and turn onto the shoulder of the road in order to avoid crashing into vehicles already passing on the road. My guess is the system is designed this way - once the lights and buzz start you may only get one chance to address it before failure. But that's just a guess."
 
See post #168, now three years ago, knock on wood -"So #justayin what happened in my rig. The lights and buzz went off once and the brakes still worked. I parked, turned it off, filled up with gas, turned it on and started driving toward the exit onto the main road. No lights or buzz after it started. As I approached the road and pressed the brakes, nothing. With the brakes all the way to the floor. Had to immediately pull the e-brake and turn onto the shoulder of the road in order to avoid crashing into vehicles already passing on the road. My guess is the system is designed this way - once the lights and buzz start you may only get one chance to address it before failure. But that's just a guess."

Good to know. Just double-checked my parking brake and, of course, that ain't working. Haven't really needed to use it yet, but definitely going to get that working again pronto. Thanks for the beta!
 

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