Part Time 4WD Conversion Owners

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Do the vibes go away when you grease the u-joints?

Do you have any play in the rear output flange? Side to side, up/down, forward/aft?
Ujoint's were replaced with the drive shaft balance on Tuesday and Installed yesterday. Ive driven the truck maybe 4 miles. Everything was greased.

no noticeable movement from the output flange. I'm thinking its the bearing on the case differential spool.
 
maybe a pinion alignment issue in the rear.

i've got a 4" lift with ext rear lowers with no vibrations at all.
I should of mentioned that it started as soon as I finished the install. Ive been back through the case twice looking for something off. I used the same bearing. Also should mention I'm running this on a non VC in a 98 100series.

Just curious if anyone has vibs after the install.
 
that makes sense. vibrations can happen when the load degreases on the shaft and is less constrained by it. uncoupling the front shaft probable exposed a situation that was already there just masked.

go bavk to basics and read the drive angles at each joint of the drive shaft
 
that makes sense. vibrations can happen when the load degreases on the shaft and is less constrained by it. uncoupling the front shaft probable exposed a situation that was already there just masked.

go bavk to basics and read the drive angles at each joint of the drive shaft
Might be on to something...
I remembering trying to remove the shaft and it was so tight I had to remove the grease zerk to get it to compress so I could lower it down.

I'll grease and report back.
 
Greased the shaft really good. No change in the vibration.

Im going to remove the spool and reassemble to see if the vibe is in the spool.

Edit: Update. Replaced the rebuilt shaft with a take off from another 100. Problem solved
 
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I should of mentioned that it started as soon as I finished the install. Ive been back through the case twice looking for something off. I used the same bearing. Also should mention I'm running this on a non VC in a 98 100series.

Just curious if anyone has vibs after the install.

Yes, after having a shop install a C.O. part time kit, as well as a 6" lift and redo the ring and pinions and rebuild the axles, I have a terrible vibration. I drove it home with the potentially drivetrain damaging vibration and haven't wanted to take it back to those jerks... PM me for a short list of shops NOT to give business to in southern Oregon....
 
What's the consensus on start to finish time on installation of the Mark's Part time 4WD kit?

I think I got overcharged at 8hrs labor @ $82.50/hr.
 
I did this install many years ago, it involves pulling out the birfields to get snap ring groove cut in, so while it's all apart it only makes sense to go through the knuckles, rebuild, repack and replace as needed. This is more time consuming and labor intensive than putting the spool in the tcase. All that said, it definitely takes some time.
 
I did this install many years ago, it involves pulling out the birfields to get snap ring groove cut in, so while it's all apart it only makes sense to go through the knuckles, rebuild, repack and replace as needed. This is more time consuming and labor intensive than putting the spool in the tcase. All that said, it definitely takes some time.

That depends on the year of the 8x Series. Not all require birf mods, some are a simple bolt-on AISIN hub.
 
What's the consensus on start to finish time on installation of the Mark's Part time 4WD kit?

I think I got overcharged at 8hrs labor @ $82.50/hr.
Yeah you got hosed. I paid Valley Hybrids in Stockton, CA (best around) $1075 and that included labor to remove the case completely and set it aside to use a case preferred by me in which they installed the low range gears, part time kit, two new out put bearings and seals, speed sensor seals, assemble with fpig, install and filled with oil. I provided all parts.

To anyone who lives within a days drive of Stockton,CA; it’s worty the drive to let Georg and his crew at Valley Hybrids do the work that you can’t or don’t want to do. They know cruisers.....
 
What's the consensus on start to finish time on installation of the Mark's Part time 4WD kit?

I think I got overcharged at 8hrs labor @ $82.50/hr.

What front hubs? Bolt-on AVM's or did those 8hrs include some birf work on the front axle?

For the t-case side of things we would be ~$250 in labor. A full overhaul labor on a t-case is $450-750 (loose vs on the vehicle)
 
What front hubs? Bolt-on AVM's or did those 8hrs include some birf work on the front axle?

For the t-case side of things we would be ~$250 in labor. A full overhaul labor on a t-case is $450-750 (loose vs on the vehicle)

It was a Mark's 4WD kit, with the AVM hubs.

I asked 4WD Shed in AUS who made the video on youtube, how long for the install and they quoted me 4 hours...which sounds about right after you've got about 2.75 hour into the t-case and another 1.25 for the hubs.

I talked to the shop that I went to and they declared that they put their blood, sweat, and tears into my rig, attempting to make it absolutely perfect in every way, as clean as a whistle( used 5 cans of Brake Kleen) and blobbitty, blah, blah... luckily they do do good work, and stand by it, but I did try other shops for the last five years after I had this kind of experience with them in the past... billing me 3 hours for a 45 minute intake pipe install that I could've done myself... at this shop, it's not the techs in question, it's the management. So, I really need to get back into wrenching for myself...the results were almost always better than the rest.
 
Unfortunately for me, the same shop billed me 8.8 hours for the Transgo kit install that @lilevo said took 5 hours and @scottryana said took 4 hours. Sucks for me.

I've talked to George @Valley Hybrids and they've quoted me timeframes of six months or more out for scheduling and recommended Tor Fab up in Sea/Tac area of Washington...
 
And they billed me 13.5 hours for overhauling my diffs, with parts I supplied from @cruiseroutfit... not including R&R

I really got shafted... they did show me how they cleaned every housing out REALLY WELL though! :bang:
 
I had another shop, a Toyota specialty shop in Grants Pass, Oregon, this last summer do a @cruiseroutfit part time kit install, overhaul both diffs and axles w/ @cruiseroutfit kits, install the Transgo kit, and a 6" lift with 37's and they returned it to me with such a bad vibration that:

  1. kept me from driving the rig, beyond back to my house
  2. made me lose all faith in that business, even to fix the issue at hand.
  3. inspired me to find a new shop to do future work and repair the newly created issues
So, if you can refer an honest shop that can schedule within a few weeks time and are within a 8 hour drive from Medford, OR. Please do! Really, please. I'm so tired of being taken advantage of.
 
What front hubs? Bolt-on AVM's or did those 8hrs include some birf work on the front axle?

For the t-case side of things we would be ~$250 in labor. A full overhaul labor on a t-case is $450-750 (loose vs on the vehicle)
Sounds about right. ACC here in Atlanta I wants about 500 to rebuild my case and install high and low gears if I bring them all the parts and a case out of the truck. They do fantastic work but are not the cheapest. But if I am going to have someone other than myself work on the truck it has to be someone I trust. That is a short list and ACC is the top of that list. Paying a little extra is well worth that to me.
 
Unfortunately for me, the same shop billed me 8.8 hours for the Transgo kit install that @lilevo said took 5 hours and @scottryana said took 4 hours. Sucks for me.

I've talked to George @Valley Hybrids and they've quoted me timeframes of six months or more out for scheduling and recommended Tor Fab up in Sea/Tac area of Washington...
I guy I know in the local TLC chapter has a 60 with a diesel swap done by torfab. Looks like top rate work. I here good stuff about them.
 
Dropped the AT last year and went to an h55f with twin sticks, and manual locks. The loss of approx 500 lbs changed the dynamics of the front end entirely. Much lighter steering requires more focus in highway diving, snow and heavy rain. (although the added 3-5 MPG lightens the burden on the wallet) The 3FE is more responsive with manual, but the straight gearing of the h55f doesn't lend towards race car get up and go. It was, however, a rush to do donuts in the snow in a rig I'd never previously let the ass end out of.
 
I hashed it out with the shop and they do guarantee their work. I've had great luck with their work and builds they've helped with in the past, so I'm content paying the extra. One of the techs said he'd gladly help me at home on the weekends, if I want to go that route.
 
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