Ordering timing chain now, questions

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beatdown83fj60

beatdown83fj60

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Threads
57
Messages
615
Location
Evergreen, Colorado
I've been looking all over ebay, engnbldr.com, lc engineering, etc. and Im a little confused. I see kits for 85-95 22r or 22re but why wouldn't it fit my 84 22r? Or would it? I looked at it and it's a single row and I plan on keeping it that way but getting the metal guides as I don't want to deal with this for a long time. Ebay has a few kits for a good price right now but they don't mention fitting an 84 and if theres anything I hate more than my truck being down, its my truck being down and the wrong parts in my hands needing to be sent back to wherever I ordered them.
 
I suggest you email or phone Ted at Engnbldr (or one of the other vendors) to discuss. I'm no expert but I was under the impression that the 84 and earlier 22R engines had the dual row timing chain. If yours is single row then I would have thought that it would be the 85 and up kit. Therfore, I would phone or email to clarify first.
 
You might want to make sure that is actually an 84 motor as I was also under the impression that the 84 and earlier were dual row. I'd bet that if you called engnbldr he would be able to get you the right stuff.
 
I will give him a call, I called my local napa this morning and asked them if they had a kit for an 84 4runner for giggles and they did so I asked them if it was a dual row or a single row and they said single???? Wierd to me, Ive read a lot of conflicting posts between here, pirate, and 4x4 wire as to whether or not 84's were dual timing chains. This vehicle has only been owned by two people besides me, one of which didnt drive it more than 5000 miles and only owned it for a year and I contacted the guy who owned it from new and he said it had the original motor. The guy I bought it from couldn't even figure out how to take the bumper off so I know he didnt put a new motor in it, and if he did it probably wouldn't need a timing chain. I pulled the valve cover yesterday and that chain had a TON of slack on the right side. The toyota specialist that told me I had some time didn't seem to be much of a specialist at all because I've never looked at a timing chain before and it was OBVIOUSLY in need of replacement. The guy also quoted me $900 labor to do the chain and that wasn't pulling the pan, I think he had one of his kids birthdays coming up or something because that seems rediculous to me. Im a little nervous as I havent done much engine work but Im giving myself a three day weekend to get it done so I can take my time and quadruple check myself. I hope I do it right!

I also got my FJ60 rotors in today so I'll be doing a photo write-up on the swap to help some others out. Thanks for your help guys, Im sure Ill be asking questions over the weekend.
 
My 83 with a 22R (original engine) has the single row chain.
 
Well I bought the NAPA kit 9-4141s and I'm going to order metal guides from another company. It was hard to pass up because the guy gave me a slamming deal for $60 because he said it's been on his shelf for a while. I have a question. When torqueing the cam sprocket, how should I keep it from moving? I know a lot of kits have holes in that sprocket and people use an extension to hold it in place, but mines solid. Can I drill a hole in it to use this technique or would that cause me balance problems in some form and make something bad happen?
 
I remember a while back reading that only 20r's came with dual chains but I don't know if that's a fact. It's hard to say how many of them have been converted over the years. People have always loved their toyotas after all. Im thinking about calling a dealer and asking. It would be a good solid fact to have nailed down for the FAQ. I don't think I've found a truly definite answer on this subject even on Pirate.
 
81 and 82 22r's had dual row chain,late 82 -84 had single row chain,85 up lazer block had single row chain but different length.the late 82 up single row chain blocks can use the dual row chain parts but you need to switch out the oil pump drive spline to an earlier one(it is thinner to make room for the extra width of the double crank gear,lc engineering sells it for about 30 bucks).Highly recomended as it will last twice as long.The dual row kit also comes with metal guides stock and it isnt much more I have seen them go for 60 bucks on ebay
 
Well, I just swabbed my finger in the thermostat housing and saw what "looked like" milkshake. I think I'm going to pull the head too, this sucks. This is a little nerve racking I've never done this before without a coach and never on a 22r. Seems wierd to me, there never was any on the dipstick, none in the oil I drained out and it didn't run hot at all.
 
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Ok, I determined it wasnt milkshake so Im leaving the head on. This motor has 189k so Im not into going crazy on it, I just want it to run for another 6 months or so until I can afford a rebuilt engine.

Right now I have all the accessories off but I have a few questions

1. When I pulled the dist. the rotor was at 11 oclock, the timing mark on the crank pulley was at 0 and the dot on the cam sprocket was just to the left of 12 oclock. Is the tdc on cylinder 1? Is this where I want it to be? I think it may have skipped a tooth but Im not sure. One day out of the blue it just started running crappy and making noise and that's what led me to check the timing chain.

2. I removed the air pump, but do I need to remove the bracket as well? One of the bolts goes into the motor mount.

3. Do I need to remove the water pump, or can I just pull the bolt that goes through it and remove the whole assembly. This is as far as I've gotten and I won't be going any further until I feel a little more comfortable with where I am.
 
Yes, the timing mark just left of top center on the cam is where it should be. Doesn't sound like a skipped tooth....

As long as the air pump braket isn't held on through the timing cover that should be fine.

I forget which bolts go through the water pump into the timing cover, but yes, you can leave the water pump on the cover.
 
Ok, well I got the cover off, one of the airpump brackets did go through the timing cover and it was one of the middle bolts that went through the water pump that held the cover on, the one thats on the left side but not the outside circumfrance.

Now, my kit didn't come with gaskets, can I use fipk, or should i get the gaskets? This is a lot easier than I thought it was going to be just time consuming.
 
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