Build OL'BETSY ZX: 1991 HZJ77

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Hello,

The newer model snorkel's inner curvature is something to consider.

I suppose that placement suits the curvature better than in line with the seam, or below.

A little more airflow is always welcome.

Thank you for the explanation.





Juan
 
Overall all systems worked well except my Renogy mppt controller that internally shorted on day 2 and is now in the process of warranty validation.
My buddy experienced the same thing with 3 MPPT's from Renogy recently. He sent them a detailed video of his wiring- they couldn't see anything wrong with it so they sent out 2 replacements in a span of two months. He doesn't understand why they kept blowing. He is on his third unit now and it seems to be working well for a little bit more than a month

The 77 is looking great!
I'm considering a future snorkel as well, I'll watch your install to see which brand I choose. Make sure if you haven't already is apply a good bead of silicone sealant between the two pieces to mitigate any water ingress if you happen to need the full height of the snorkel.
 
My buddy experienced the same thing with 3 MPPT's from Renogy recently. He sent them a detailed video of his wiring- they couldn't see anything wrong with it so they sent out 2 replacements in a span of two months. He doesn't understand why they kept blowing. He is on his third unit now and it seems to be working well for a little bit more than a month

The 77 is looking great!
I'm considering a future snorkel as well, I'll watch your install to see which brand I choose. Make sure if you haven't already is apply a good bead of silicone sealant between the two pieces to mitigate any water ingress if you happen to need the full height of the snorkel.
Oh no! Hopefully they just went through a bad batch? I bought mine last Sept but didn't put it in use till this May. Did his act the same way: Simply blew a fuse everytime it saw battery?

Thanks! It's all about the stripes. She's on a 5 year plan methinks? Needs to last for until a 2014 or 15 JDM GRJ76 in 2029? (That's the latest long term plan LOL).

For sure those two snork pieces need to be sealed! From the factory there appears to be simply foam tape in the union. It certainly made it easier to mount though compared to the one piece models I've done in the past. Once I had it lined up, I removed the top half and then bolted down the bottom half. It also gives you a little wiggle room in terms of the angle. I haven't taken it for a drive yet but my slipstream is such that I'm guessing one more obstruction flapping in the breeze ain't gonna matter none. 🤣
 
Successful trip to Banff with my wife, dog, and watercraft. All systems were working as I'd hoped, despite the expected slow progress on hills.

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Tried the 270 awning walls. Awesome!

Getting the kayak up and down was challenging but the Thule Hullavator ($!) is on the other truck so... Thule Hullaport it is.

But having the RTT ladder helped a lot!
 
Oh also... And this is 70 series related in that she'll get a break from DD duties...

I bought a subcompact to save some miles and more importantly fuel in olBetsy.

She's a 2005 Honda Fit sport with 1.5 VTec (lol) and manual trans. It's also a JDM and is in excellent shape: 4B at auction in the spring of this year. So Betsy will get to do Fridays and snowy days.
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despite the expected slow progress on hills.
save some miles and more importantly fuel in olBetsy.
That Fit will run forever, at 120kph, with 40l of fuel!!!

Last summer, in downtown Winnipeg, I pulled up beside a nice HZJ77 from Europe. I said “Nice rig! How’s your drive been?”.

His response … “Slow and thirsty!”.

Yup!

He then said “What’s with this place? What’s an 8 hour drive? How far is that? It’s crazy!!!”. Then the light changed and he drove away. LOL
 
That Fit will run forever, at 120kph, with 40l of fuel!!!

Last summer, in downtown Winnipeg, I pulled up beside a nice HZJ77 from Europe. I said “Nice rig! How’s your drive been?”.

His response … “Slow and thirsty!”.

Yup!

He then said “What’s with this place? What’s an 8 hour drive? How far is that? It’s crazy!!!”. Then the light changed and he drove away. LOL
I love when people ask "where are you from", and I answer "Calgary", and they say "oh I've been to Vancouver". "Oh, that's not too far away, just 1000 km" and their eyes go wide. :oops: (Mainly in Europe, FWIW).
 
Had a great time at the BCOR. Camped with my Rover friends and listened to their tales of woe around the campfire each night. Lol. Saw a couple of 70 series pickups and got to lean over the hood of a pop top vdj78 troopy driven by a German who bought it in Australia. Drool...

Taught a few classes (tire repair in the field and pretrip inspection). Met some cool folks with cool rigs, like @kim and his awesome 60 series. Also got to run the off-road course a few times as well. Overall all systems worked well except my Renogy mppt controller that internally shorted on day 2 and is now in the process of warranty validation.

A buddy got a few vids that I'll post when I get a chance to edit.

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Good to meet you Phil.
 
Well, Mr Toyota may cancel me for this, but I live at altitude and frequently go higher. HAC reduced the smoke but I am missing some jam. And I've been sitting on these parts for almost three years so... It's time?

Forgive me Mr. Toyota for I have sinned.

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Well, Mr Toyota may cancel me for this, but I live at altitude and frequently go higher. HAC reduced the smoke but I am missing some jam. And I've been sitting on these parts for almost three years so... It's time?

Forgive me Mr. Toyota for I have sinned.

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Both, my 77 and 79 Series had turbos (plus Intercooler) installed. They are both still “zooming” up and down the road. 😊
 
So @mitch199 of Simpson off-road fame makes a couple of trick kits to enable the OEM CT26 off the 1HDT to bolt right up. (Yes buddy, I've been sitting on this kit for a LONG time)

The first one I'll be using is the oil supply/return kit with water blanking (I'm not worried about coking the turbo but I am worried about adding even more heat to the coolant so this CT26 will not be water cooled.)

Here is the oil supply/return fitting. The kit also comes with the bung for the sump (already installed if you've been following along), as well as the tee piece for the oil pressure sender, and braided lines with AN fittings.

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Finally, I opted for this to blank the water supply although he can spec it with water lines too if you'd prefer.

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I've already pulled the heat shields, and the exhaust (as far as the straight section under the RHS rocker panel), as well as the plenum, and air cleaner top assembly.
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The next job (and I'm not looking forward it) is getting those manifold studs out. I'm only pulling the three on the end (where the exhaust attaches) in order to bolt up Mitch's party piece: a 1hz -> 1hdt bolt on manifold adapter, so I don't have to source a 1hdt manifold. Some double nut action on its way! 😉

Link to Mitch's product here on 'mud:
Thread '1HZ - Turbo CT26 Manifold Adaptor Kit - Made in Aus' 1HZ - Turbo CT26 Manifold Adaptor Kit - Made in Aus - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1hz-turbo-ct26-manifold-adaptor-kit-made-in-aus.1227312/
 
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Well that was not the most fun I've ever had. Didn't help that the garage was 29°C but the end result is this:

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None of them snapped although I wondered about the one at 10:00 ... but it finally started turning. Even double nutted, they didn't want to move without serious pursuasion. Now I have all this space!

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A little tidying up to do with some high heat paint, but then...? Time to start putting things together!f So after too long on the shelf, this work of art is finally going to fulfill it's mission..

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So, shocker: I'm an idiot. Again.

This time around, I decided to demonstrate to you smart folks who need no demonstration, why you should chase your manifold threads before attempting to crank titanium bolts into your thirty something year old cast iron manifold...

Simpson's adapter came with very fancy titanium bolts: countersunk Allen head 140ksi Ti in 10-1.25x30mm . Since it seemed I had every metric tap EXCEPT 1.25… I decided that titanium bolts would have no problem ploughing their way through, right? Well you already know the answer. I am now waiting on (four just in case) titanium bolts from Texas, so this afternoon I very thoroughly tapped and cleaned the manifold threads with my new 10-1.25 tap.

Also took some time to paint my turbo, heat shields and made the crossover plenum a little fancier too.
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The turbo is in!

Sounds so much easier than it actually was in practice. Such little room to actually shoehorn it in and now that it's in I can attest it's really really close quarters. And by no means done yet.

But let's back up. Titanium bolts came and after chasing the threads thoroughly, they went in easy peasy. Then I threaded in the studs.

Then I moved to the left side to plumb the oil feed. Very tight over there too. Eventually I arrived at an orientation that allowed the pressure sender, the elbow, and the AN fitting to all just get along. Hard to see but here is a pic:
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Picture the T lying flat with the top of the T towards the front. One side of the T threads into the block, and the opposite end serves the pressure sender, while the bottom of the T faces the back and has the AN fitting leading to the braided line.

This was quite tight. I used loctite on all but the AN fitting which I I lubed with WD40 before installing the line.

Okay. Back to the business side.

I drilled a hole AFTER the turbo and (as I said to my buddy this afternoon) all the preturbo EGT gauge preachers can suck it. :rofl: I've run a post turbo EGT since 2006 and no puppies or unicorns ever got harmed. No nasty bits going through your turbo and lower temps to boot! 😉

Tapped a hole and my bung threaded in perfectly.
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More to come...
 
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So I began to maneuver the turbo into place but then realized there wasn't room to get it back out. Or back in. So I unbolted the vacuum can and pulled the brake line heat shield (around the turbo) and finally managed to rotate it into place.
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Still need to put the manifold heat shield back. And the turbo heat shields.

It appears I will have to cut the inner wheel well to allow sufficient exhaust clearance since my plan is three inch. And it is really close to the steering rod but hopefully I can still get an exhaust on there?

Still need to hook up the turbo side of the oil feed/return. Planning for that tomorrow. Also need to run a hose from the valve cover to the air box, and a few other things I'm sure...
 
Today was one step forward - three steps back. My AN line from oil drain to sump is too short. I had a hair brained idea to rotate the housing a little bit and pulled the whole thing back out again. It was harder to get it out than the first time.
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But then I realized that I'd have to clock it too much (at the exhaust housing) and still might not have enough slack. So now my plan is to get an extension or a longer line for the drain.

But this means the turbo has to go back in again now. Sigh.
 
Bolted the turbo back in.

Made a new (slightly longer) drain line with barbed AN10 fittings. My boost gauge didn't arrive yet but I have all the piping finally figured out for the intake. Using the manifold adapter means that none of the factory 1hdt rubber hoses work so I had to get creative with silicone hoses. But I did use the 1hdt airbox cover with the elbow built in. It's 3 inches instead of the 1hz's 2¾ inch diameter output.

Pics coming...
 
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