Now THAT'S seized!--HELP! (1 Viewer)

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Air check valve? My drivers side fender by the marker light is hot after the truck has been running. Could this be the "air check valve" and I have desmoged but still have my smog pump. Can I get rid of this thing? I don't need the emissions stuff when I am and I want to get rid of that mess of stuff leading into the SP.
Thanks
Chris
 
[QUOTE
Just when I was cursing those Toyota engineers for putting the water pump and smog pump on the same belt, along come this elegant solution.
[/QUOTE]

You can also use, I believe the alternater belt, for an F40 to buypass the smog pump.
 
Run without the smog pump... emergency procedure

(Thanks Al Romero)

Well, take a look at your truck this afternoon.
Hypothetically, WHEN your airpump siezes, you will loose every accessory on that belt (airpump/belt tensioner AND WATERPUMP!)
because you loose the waterpump, you are s*** out of luck if you loose the airpump.
The other circuit is alternator/tensioner, and power steering..

Now, you can recover. But, now you have effectivly only one circuit you can make because you lost one of your tensioners (the airpump). This means you must choose wisely :)
You have only one choice. You must include the waterpump and the alternator (and the crank of course ) This way you have a circuit and you maintain a belt tensioner (the alt). If you wanted to have the power steering too, you woul dhave to figure out a way to mak e the power steering pump a tensioner, or put an idler pulley in there..

So, When your airpump goes you have to have a spare belt which is (nonstock) long/short enough to go around crank/alt/waterpump. This will get you off the trail. Its a 20 min fix, but without it you are STUCK.

I used Napa belt number 25- 22517
Its a 17mm x 1335mm
aka
11/16inch x 52.5 inch

Which translates to a Gates TR22517 at my local NAPA...
from the "Truck & Bus Series"...

the guy said: "That's a BIG belt, what's it for?"
He sure gave me a funny look when I said: "Toyota Land Cruiser"... nice!
 
Last edited:
well since this post has been resurrected, I'll add my 2c.

I had the same thing happen to my SP about 2 years ago. I went to start the motor and I got this gawd awful belt squeeling and smoke from under the hood. I shut it off real quick, checked it out a bit, then tried turning her over again. I think I turned her on and off a few times but after a several tries she started up, this time with no squeel. The SP had "un-seized" I guess. I have had no problems since then, although I am now getting a bit of light squeel from one of the belts (could be related). And I've passed smog once since then.

What the hells that all about?
 
Yea I'd say my SP just died on me (7 miles from home:eek:) and I decided to read up on what it could be, saw this thread, it's helped me a lot, hopefully I'll pull it out this weekend and get it taken care of, until then I will have to resort to the old junker for transportation. before mine went out though there was a loud clicking noise from that area, it gradually got louder and louder until the SP squealed and I had to get a tow. Did anyone happen to have that happen to them?
 
And we continue to use the search feature!!!! This thread is 4 years old and I used it well.

I love the search feature!!
 
My SP seized, but I was in my driveway. (Luckily) I ran the AC belt around the water pump and alternator so I could move it, but I had no power steering. I've since been desmogging so i never have to deal with a SP again!
 
Also

I am also dealing with a SP seizure....

Many folks here have discussed not touching the PS so my question is this...
Isn't this a perfect time to replace the PS pump as well? Most SP issues are due to the PS leaking all over it.

I figure i'll delete the SP, and add an idler, and replace the PS pump while I'm busting knuckles anyway...
 
Has anyone tried de-vaining the smog pumps?
Prior to the California 1974 and older (smog) law I used to de-vain all my GM smog pumps and plug the air lines, cars passed emissions without a problem.
It was a visual then to see that in fact there was a smog pump and that it was turning.

Not sure how the FJ is set up though, if there is a vaccum line they put in the emissions computer to register?
 
If you're already in there working on things it seems a natural to makes sure that everything is working proper while you'r ethere.

If smog is an issue then de-vaning will only bite you in the butt. They use a sniffer to test the actual emissions and that can easily tell that the SP is not doing it's job.
 
"Rise old, dead, thread, rise!" - just when I thought the expensive head work had somehow made my water pump and/or clutch fan seize up... I thought... What if the smog pump seized...

It started in a friend's driveway after a 30 mile drive... all of a sudden, I had the banshee squeal from hell coming from under the hood, so I open it up to see the fan struggling to turn.. Luckily just a few minutes from my house, so I get back to the house and walk away while we both cool down.

Next day, I pop the hood and notice the Waterpump/Smog pump belt has cooked almost all the way through and is very loose. The water pump spins freely now, with that belt chewed up, but the smog pump is difficult turn. ...

Can I assume it's the smog pump?
 
Yes.
 
lcwizard said:
you can keep one of these around

manafrelv.com

FJ40 FJ60 Idler Pulley Air Pump Eliminator for 2F Engines 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987 - Landcruiser Parts

If you are running a 2F built between 8/1980-8/1987 the air pump is used to provide tension for the main engine fan belt. The air pump is an expensive item, and in some situations you may want to replace it with a less expensive alternative. For this purpose we have made an “Idler Pulley” that...
manafrelv.com manafrelv.com
Click to expand...
If I recall, the manafree requires some tweaking due to how it fits on the existing hardware? @CaptClose can say as he’s the one that found the issue. Maybe Manafree fixed it at this time. I used the idler from JimC and had zero issues w/ install. He was gracious in explaining how to tighten the belt to snug and then as the new belt stretches it will squeal so to tighten the adjusting but one full turn until no more squealing occurs. May take a week or two of adjustments.
 
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