Need help/direction with top and door fitment problem

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 20, 2003
Threads
2,291
Messages
7,894
Location
NE PA coal region
Well, getting near the end of nephew Zach's 40 project: Project FJ By 16 year old and Schmukster and have run into a few problems that have me stumped. Looking for help/advice, someone telling me that I did something dumb and how to re-do it, etc. Any input helpful.

The truck started as a 77- still has the original frame and engine that came with the project that had been completely disassembled when we got it. I had found a rebuilt tub in Alabama at a good price and Jim and Zach went down to pick it up. The tub is from a 72 or 73. The tub fit just fine onto the 77 frame. The rear of the tub at the door openings were modified by welding in the inserts to make the ambulance doors fit properly. Yes the truck uses Amby doors and newer style front doors. Windshield frame is from a 73. The hardtop sides are from the 77 as is the fiberglass top.

Got the hardtop sides mounted, rear door opening header bar installed and amby doors mounted and fitting just fine, used OEM weatherstripping. When i went to install the front doors I found that they didn't want to fit well at all. The top rear corners of both doors were leaning backwards subsrtantially. The passenger side was closer in fit than the driver side, we got it to fit pretty well by elongating the slots in the upper door hing (the side of the hinge that bolts to the door itself). To get a good fit at the upper front corner we had to recline the windshield back further than it normally would be- that is the original spacers that the WS locking knobs go through are now too long to fit in their original location.

The driver door is out of whack further than the passenger side and elongating the slots in that door hinge don't give ius enoughh room. Even with the front edge of the driver side door butting up against the half of the door hinge that attaches to the cowl the door is still way out of adjustment. Yes we have looked at some ideas to make this door fit but then we found the problem that really has me stumped.

When we set the already painted top onto the truck there is a gap almost 1" between the bottom of the top (the attaching lip) and the front of the hardtop side. See the pics to underside just what the heck I am talking about. These two photos show a black straightedge laid along the top from the rear corner of the hardtop side to the WS area where the front door header mounts

Top 1.webp
Top 2.webp


The second photo also illustrates how far out of adjustment the door is. This photo shows how far forward I have already moved the door in it's upper hinge- the front edge of the door hits the half of the hinge that is attached to the cowl.

We tried a lot of different fixes- replaced these hardtop sides with another set I have, same result. tried an older style front door- same misalgnment. I compared the dimensions of the older style windshield frame we're using to a newer style WS frame i have and the height looks to be the same.

What the hell am I missing here? Looking for a workable answer and am hoping the tub wasn't welded together incorrectly when the previous owner re-did it. Help! I'm sick about this- so close to the end and now this. Agaian any input is appreciated. Thanks in advance. Gary S
 
All is not lost... if the body is tweaked I think you should be able to unbolt the body mounts Jack up the body and strategically use thick rubber spacers in areas you need the body to rise. Then use the bolts to pull the body back down hopefully into shape. If the body is indeed bent, how does the line look along the fender where it meets the cowl?
 
Yep, I agree with everyone saying that the tub is bowed.

Was it stored someplace on supports fore and aft? Doing that and then using it as a convenient place to put stuff as people will tend to do can change the lines, and a little at the bottom could result in fairly big gaps at the top.

No amount of messing with the attaching pieces is likely to help much but a good body shop, a unibody rack can make for an easy fix maybe even without chipping the paint.
 
Last edited:
1" inch is a lot to tweak up with spacers. Something has to give and in this case the rocker area will want to ripple. I would also think that the upper door supports would be very tight getting in with the windshield holds tightened all the way in its current state.
 
I know this 'sickening feeling'.

If you find the tub is bowed or mis-welded, you may be able to strategically cut it (weakening it), then straighten it, and then re-weld and touch-up the affected area. All this depends on how the tub is out of whack. I would go slowly and study all the things that may be wrong and how to fix them (before you do anything). It's all interrelated. You may want to leave the tub on the truck for these mods, so you can study the effects of your mods in real time. There is a solution to this - you just have to carefully figure it out and implement it.

I learned the agony of this trying to fit a full Pacol rear fender to my '80 FJ40. Things were off by 1/2" in places, which requires a lot of creative effort to fix.
 
did I miss this question?

are both sides aprox. the same? as in same issue on both sides.
 
Last edited:
Mark has brought this problem up before. The cowl has likely been pushed backwards. I had to use a highlift and some carefully positioned blocks to push mine back where it belonged.

Other tweaking may be present.
 
Guys- thanks for the input. After really looking into it yesterday it appears the left (driver) side of the cowl leans backwards. Holding a level along the lip in front of the door hinges on the passenger side shows plumb- right on. Doing the same on the driver side shows it to be leaning backward. That goes along with what we have been seeing as far as fitment problems with the door goes. Yes it would appear that the cowl should be pulled forward on the driver side. Not sure yet what we will do to accomplish this, the truck is not in my garage at present and we won't get back to it until Tuesday. Stay tuned and please keep the input coming. Thanks, Gary
 
Well the 40 is fixed. I took it to my personal cruiser guru John Merkey and he did some surgery on the tub. John cut through both rockers at the rear of the door openings and the front of the opening on the driver side. once thaose areas were weakened he was able to level out the body by adjusting body mounts. Looks like when the previous owner rebuilt the tub he redid the roackers and got the soor openings pinched in at the top. Can't explain the cowl leaning backward slightly on the driver side but all is good now. John got everythign back in position and welded up the cuts. my body guy didn't have a lot of massaging to do to John's fixes but he did repaint the entire tub. Looks better now than before we did the surgery but a lot of extra work went into it, for the repaint we basically stripped the entire top and doors, and had to pull the seats and gas tank and cover. lotsa work. Attached here is a picture of the passenger side door opening where the "adjustment" was made. All doors fit nicely now, and top also bolted on with little trouble. What a shame to have to cut this thing after having such a nice paint job laid on it! We did have to make new strikers for the door posts- we are using newer doors with the an older tub and the newer strikers don't just bolt up to the older tub screw plates. Will get some pictures tomorrow when I get down there to hopefully get this thing completely back together.
Merkey surgery 1.webp
 
40 reassembled Jan 2016 1.webp
Phil repaint Jan 2016 2.webp
And here's a few pics of what she looked like when I left her last Thursday. Tomorrow I have to hook up the wiper wires (yes we removed the windshield to repaint and re-clearcoat the tub?), install the inside door handles and panels, add some gas, reconnect the stereo wires and see what else she needs. Won't be long now!
 
And thanks a million to John Merkey- nothing fazes him when it comes to cruisers he's been around them a long long time. I was scared s***less to attack this problem myself and I am extremely grateful that John was willing and able to remedy the situation for us! Sure helps to have friends in the land cruiser community!
 
Just look at your other thread on the build....looks like when it was transported it was strapped to the tailer via the rockers perhaps this caused the damage
image-3098633442-jpg.870378
 
Back
Top Bottom