My new 1990 HDJ81 (2 Viewers)

[mudgudgeon]

Agreed with Ian.

Turbo diesel works quite differently to a turbo'd gas engine.

I have done two exhausts on my diesel cruisers now using 4" bends and pipe to make a dump pipe as long as possible, then tapering to 3" at the transfer case.
4" may be overkill, but my logic is that I want zero back pressure behind the turbo so hot gases can pass through the turbine as fast as possible.
The quicker you get gas out of the engine and through the turbine, the faster the turbo will spool up, the more responsive the turbo is to a bit of right foot input. Particularly as you come off idle.
If anyone tells you you need back pressure, walk away.

Gases cool and contract as they travel down the system, so 3" is plenty big enough, but in saying that, for the dollars you will spend, I wouldnt settle for crushed bends, mandrel bends give the smoothest gas flow possible.

Putting a 4"-3" system on my 1HD-T made a huge difference to how responsive it was.
4" dumpdanecdotally anecdotally works, honestly don't know if it makes a difference over 3". 3" would be the minimum I would settle for, and has to be from the turbo flange back IMO

 

[TuffMudder]

Now the only trouble is finding someone who can do my exhaust. I'll make some calls tomorrow and hope for the best.

One update. I have now driven the LC for 2 days with the ac delco back in. No smoke, no problems, and there is a distinct difference in acceleration. Before, accelerating using the first 1/2 to 1" of gas pedal travel was slow and rough. I could push past that and it smoothed out but it gave a more aggressive acceleration. Now acceleration is smoother and more responsive from the very start. More subjectively, the ride seems smoother at all speeds, but that could be me seeing what i want to see.

 

[Lumpskie]

For exhaust, I just went to a local "Lou's Exhaust" in my small town. I let the guys there geek out on a diesel LC, then told them what I wanted. I wanted something really cheap that would be a decent improvement over what I had. They did the dump inside the frame and straight back to my magnaflow for ...$200 I think? My setup is only 2.5" but made a noticeable difference:

 

[TuffMudder]

That was easier than i thought. Talked to someone today who is glad to do the exhaust the way i want. If i supply the turbo flange, the muffler and the resonator, he will provide the pipe including the mandrel bends and install it for $275.

Started PBBlasting all of the bolts tonight, particularly those near the engine, now i just need to order my parts

The plan is:
Take the flange pdf file attached below (courtesy of a 2013 post from @syche) to a local cnc shop and get a price for cutting it in 10mm 304
If that doesn't work out, i'll buy the Turbo outlet flange from BicPerformance for $40

I think I'll also need the ct26 gasket kit from ebay

And i'm going with JT3030xl muffler and jt30 resonator which appear to be the cheapest on ebay

That should have me with a complete 3" turbo back exhaust installed for about $500

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions. Nothings been bought yet, so i'm open for opinions.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I used much bigger mufflers on mine.

You'll also want a double layer braided flex pipe to put in the engine exhaust after the bell housing, and before the exhaust is hung from the chassis.
Without the flex, the exhaust will shudder on engine shut down. Because some of the clearances are tight, I used a long flex join with about 10" of braid

 

[IanB]

I'm using an Aeroturbine 3030XL muffler, looks to be very similar to what you've spec'd out here. Works great, no drone, quiet unless you're on it, no complaints. X2 on using a flex joint up front, otherwise looks good.

 

[TuffMudder]

I'm using an Aeroturbine 3030XL muffler, looks to be very similar to what you've spec'd out here. Works great, no drone, quiet unless you're on it, no complaints. X2 on using a flex joint up front, otherwise looks good.

It's apparently the exact same muffler. Someone bought someone out but apparently both are still making the mufflers. Same model numbers even except aeros start with ar and Jones start with JT

I'll be sure to get a long flex tube between the dump and chassis and I'll specify 10 inched

 

[TuffMudder]

getting that flange locally would be $80 in mild steel, so looks like i'll be going with Bicperformance

 

[TuffMudder]

@mudgudgeon what muffler and resonator did you go with?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Muffler was a Magnaflow 6x9x16" x 3" full flow, resonator was a 6" round x 14" muffler (not specifically a resonator, cant remember the brand)

 

[TuffMudder]

I had ordered a phone mount and cup holders from @bhicks site BH3D Printing, and this weekend I was finally able to install them.

The phone mount works great and you can swap out the included head for a wireless charging head as long as you have a wireless head that has the ball mounted to the back of the head and not on the base.

I decided i wanted to lessen the wiring, so i took my dremel and made a slot a little larger than my usb plug. Apparently I wasn't paying close enough attention because my dremel got into the body of the mount a couple of times, but that's my fault and not reflective of the product i recieved.

I then widened the back side to to accept the usb female plug from the radio. It wasn't rectangular and the sides flared, so both holes had to take on this atypical shape (plus ive never been good making things nice and neat with a dremel).

I mounted it on the dash but over tightened the right bottom screw creating a crack.

I then dremeled the dash behind the mount to allow for the plug to fit through. I epoxied the plug into place and let it cure. I'm very happy with the end result

 

[bhicks]

I had ordered a phone mount and cup holders from @bhicks site BH3D Printing, and this weekend I was finally able to install them.

The phone mount works great and you can swap out the included head for a wireless charging head as long as you have a wireless head that has the ball mounted to the back of the head and not on the base.

I decided i wanted to lessen the wiring, so i took my dremel and made a slot a little larger than my usb plug. Apparently I wasn't paying close enough attention because my dremel got into the body of the mount a couple of times, but that's my fault and not reflective of the product i recieved.

I then widened the back side to to accept the usb female plug from the radio. It wasn't rectangular and the sides flared, so both holes had to take on this atypical shape (plus ive never been good making things nice and neat with a dremel).

I mounted it on the dash but over tightened the right bottom screw creating a crack.

I then dremeled the dash behind the mount to allow for the plug to fit through. I epoxied the plug into place and let it cure. I'm very happy with the end result

Looks great. I love when folks get creative and modify my products to meet their own needs.

 

[TuffMudder]

Went to an outdoor event and signed up for the time creek run (lots of side by side so I was just in it to complete it)
Was a lot of fun and the land cruiser performed remarkably. I do wish Id had the rock sliders on it, but I've got another week to wait on them. Also, glad I'm about to.get a new exhaust!

Sorry about the door @Crab Sack

 

[TuffMudder]

After the mudpit today, i drove back to behind the tape and got out of the truck to watch. Truck was running fine. Came back to it and it wouldn't start. Trying to start i would get a click from the starter but no movement. Tried this a dozen or more times without success. grabbed a ride to the next event and came back to the truck 2-3 hours later and it started right up. However now the dash warning lights stay on.

I thought it was just a bad starter that finally gave up the ghost but that doesn't account for it starting after sitting long enough to dry, and I have no idea why the sudden dash warning lights. My 12 v start arrived this week, so i'm going to go ahead and do the conversion, but I'd love to know what's actually going on

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[TuffMudder]

The 12V starter finally came in this week, which is fortunate. I'll spend some time tomorrow trying to work out the conversion and see if that helps.

I plan to use this guide for the conversion
12 volt starting conversion on a 1997 24 valve manual 80 series LandCruiser

 

[mudgudgeon]

Dash lights suggest an alternator problem.
Mud in the brushes, poor connection at the back, or bad ground somewhere.
Given you've just taken it swimming in mud, fair bet is mud in the brushes.

If the starter was clicking, there's not enough current getting to it to engage the solenoid. Again, could be a bad ground, or because of a loose cconnection, or bad ground at the alternator

 

[TuffMudder]

Does that require disassembling the alternator to fix? Sounding like i have a long day ahead of me

 

[TuffMudder]

Better still, once i get this fixed, how to i keep it happening again, given staying out of the mud isn't a viable option

 

[TuffMudder]

I was able to find info on cleaning the alternator.
Alternator clean and rebuild
Alternator brush change

Is there a way to protect the alternator while mudding?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Better still, once i get this fixed, how to i keep it happening again, given staying out of the mud isn't a viable option

Simple fix, stay out of the mud