Long Travel AHC

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Yeah, I assume the length of studs is the same on the LC & LX but it would surprise me if Westcott thought this was sufficient. I’m not aware of any way we could have installed them incorrectly causing less thread engagement.
 
It's possible that trading out the factory flange nuts for normal nuts will get back some thread engagement. At a trade for spreading the load across less surface area of the mounting bucket. With 4 nuts, I think that's an okay trade.
 
Hey @TeCKis300 from you parts list (post #2) when you replaced with the longer side-by-side studs you also used a standard nut on your set up?

So, you’ve already sort of traveled this road by using the standard instead of a flange nut, Is that correct?

Does it look like you have any unexpected stress on those mounting points?

I’m no engineer, so I wouldn’t know what to look for, but curious.
 
eXpLoreLX said:
Hey @TeCKis300 from you parts list (post #2) when you replaced with the longer side-by-side studs you also used a standard nut on your set up?

So, you’ve already sort of traveled this road by using the standard instead of a flange nut, Is that correct?

Does it look like you have any unexpected stress on those mounting points?

I’m no engineer, so I wouldn’t know what to look for, but curious.
Click to expand...

Yes. On my setup with the longer studs, there's plenty of thread to put back washers. As for need, probably not critical in this spot. With the dynamic loads, I'd probably be more concerned with vibration backing off the nuts. Thrust loads probably aren't as high as the coilover is likely mostly pushing against the bucket in normal use.
 
Expoguy said:
About double the standard sensor lift. I think max sensor lift is about 1.5" so it would be about 3". I will still use high mode in 4 low and this shouldn't be a problem as the entire shock/strut is moving down and ahc is only being adjusted to maintain the new ride height. Essentially the shock shaft should be close to its original position once sensor is adjusted. The only concern was angle on axle and cv's but doesn't sound like it a problem or require a diff drop.
Click to expand...

That may be on the aggressive side and you'll likely be exceeding CV angles in droop and compromising the utility of AHC high. I think we've seen that with another build already. Separately, what tire size are you intending to run. Part of the challenge that LC guys run into is that tall static 3" lifts, create compromises in tire clearance, bump steer, and alignment issues. I'd recommend closer to a 2" sensor lift if only going down the path of only adding coilover extension.

If you do want to push the boundaries with more lift, there's probably other ingredients to add mix in. As I'm always scheming about what I'd do for the next level... If you're not already targeting 35s for more lift, I'd highly recommend that as tire lift is ultimately better than suspension lift. Beyond that, adding tundra arms for long travel to maintain better geometries with more lift. Then into 37s with mild body lift.
 
TeCKis300 said:
That may be on the aggressive side and you'll likely be exceeding CV angles in droop and compromising the utility of AHC high. I think we've seen that with another build already. Separately, what tire size are you intending to run. Part of the challenge that LC guys run into is that tall static 3" lifts, create compromises in tire clearance, bump steer, and alignment issues. I'd recommend closer to a 2" sensor lift if only going down the path of only adding coilover extension.

If you do want to push the boundaries with more lift, there's probably other ingredients to add mix in. As I'm always scheming about what I'd do for the next level... If you're not already targeting 35s for more lift, I'd highly recommend that as tire lift is ultimately better than suspension lift. Beyond that, adding tundra arms for long travel to maintain better geometries with more lift. Then into 37s with mild body lift.
Click to expand...
What does the stock max sensor adjustment create in lift ? I may be a bit off on my numbers.
 
tbisaacs said:
is it just me or is the front setting high? And are you sure the stiffness isn't due to running out of down travel up front?
Click to expand...
I am riding high in the front as I haven't yet done the adjustment in the rear. I assume the front is riding a bit stiff from ahc pressure and should come back after spacer or pre load collar installation.
 
AnyMal said:
Basically, makes the coil effective into the range we are hydraulic lifting up, and the spacer restores the down travel lost on a normal system.
That being said, our shocks have a lot of range.

This is hyptothetically gonna give me a 2" lift, with normal ahc pressures. However, the real lift amount and pressures is still trial and error.
Since im not weighed down, i may have to lift even more to further load the ram shock and get ahc to rebound correctly.

We are all stacking spacers because we are lifting more and dynamically, so the shock is not overextended, then the bump stops to prevent overcompression.
Theres spacers in the kit for the top (7.5mm aluminum) and washers for the bump stops. But im gonna be doubling up with my existing spacer.

But, you already know all this. You are grinchy, driveway king.
Click to expand...
What is your opinion on max spacer thickness without having issue with cv/axle angle ?
 
Expoguy said:
What is your opinion on max spacer thickness without having issue with cv/axle angle ?
Click to expand...
There is some conversation with pictures about this earlier in the thread. Without going back and looking, i believe it was decided that about 18-20mm would be the ideal max.


Edit: I went back and looked, starts about right here.
 
Expoguy said:
What is your opinion on max spacer thickness without having issue with cv/axle angle ?
Click to expand...
24mm of space without a sway bar. And 18 with a sway bar is where you want to be.

Your feeling stiff because you lost all your droop travel. If you do any sort of wheeling you will quickly notice it’s not sustainable especially in H mode.

Even if you decide to remove your sway bar and max out your spacers. You will still be lacking in overall droop needed to compensate for the bracket adjustment.

Stock adjustment gives you about 1-1.25 in of lift.

The system has its limitations. If you want 2-3 inches of lift your best bet is to max out the stock limitations (Sensor lift and tech stream). Add a top hat spacer to get some droop back and relieve some of your ahc pressure and the do a 1.25-1.5 in body lift.
 
Killacaviar said:
Both should have the same effect on preload/augmentation.

I prefer using top hat spacers because it increases droop travel. I’m running 24mm on top of the coil over with no sway bar.

Also keep in mind, if your running a sway bar, adding more spacer for droop will have no effect, because the sway king are the limiting factor.

@TeCKis300 correct me if I am wrong
Click to expand...
I am looking at stacking spacers for a total of about 22-23 mm. I can modify or remove sway bar but others have expressed concern about cv/axle angle and clearance on upper control arm. Any opinion or suggestions??
 
Expoguy said:
I am looking at stacking spacers for a total of about 22-23 mm. I can modify or remove sway bar but others have expressed concern about cv/axle angle and clearance on upper control arm. Any opinion or suggestions??
Click to expand...
I have not run a sway bar for 12k miles on 35mt’s and 24mm of spacer.

I have blown one cv which I think was unrelated. I keep a spare in the drawer.

The truck is magical in N 4low. When H is needed there is still a bit left on the table. I still peg out my coilovers when driving fast (30-50mph) offroad.

37s/body lift is my answer.
 
Killacaviar said:
24mm of space without a sway bar. And 18 with a sway bar is where you want to be.

Your feeling stiff because you lost all your droop travel. If you do any sort of wheeling you will quickly notice it’s not sustainable especially in H mode.

Even if you decide to remove your sway bar and max out your spacers. You will still be lacking in overall droop needed to compensate for the bracket adjustment.

Stock adjustment gives you about 1-1.25 in of lift.

The system has its limitations. If you want 2-3 inches of lift your best bet is to max out the stock limitations (Sensor lift and tech stream). Add a top hat spacer to get some droop back and relieve some of your ahc pressure and the do a 1.25-1.5 in body lift.
Click to expand...
Thank you !
My plan is to stack spacers , max sensor and tech stream and nothing more. I just wanted to make sure I won't have issues with upper control arm and cv's.
 
Expoguy said:
Thank you !
My plan is to stack spacers , max sensor and tech stream and nothing more. I just wanted to make sure I won't have issues with upper control arm and cv's.
Click to expand...
I ran a 30mm spacer for a year. It was perfect except my upper control arm interfered with the coil over at full droop.

I may go back to this and mess with the coil spring orientation so it doesn’t hit.

Just know if your runner OEM sway bar and links anything over 18mm will do nothing for you. The sway bar will limit droop beyond that.
 
Killacaviar said:
I have not run a sway bar for 12k miles on 35mt’s and 24mm of spacer.

I have blown one cv which I think was unrelated. I keep a spare in the drawer.

The truck is magical in N 4low. When H is needed there is still a bit left on the table. I still peg out my coilovers when driving fast (30-50mph) offroad.

37s/body lift is my answer.
Click to expand...
Have you ever checked cv/axle angle at full droop ? I tend to drive a bit fast myself and use to racing shocks and some with multiple by passes. I know AHC will never be that but it works very well for most things.
 
eXpLoreLX said:
View attachment 3314963View attachment 3314964

Well I’m new at this and not as creative with the solutions yet!

But I did the max AHC sensor lift without tech stream adjustment and next up is the Westcott spacer and preload kit with a passenger side rear spring on the driver side (USA).
Click to expand...
These the 318's with 40mm offset? If so, what size tire did you go with?
 
TeCKis300 said:
I looked long and hard for a Tundra spacer but couldn't find anything readily available under 24mm. Doesn't help that most ads quote suspension lift rather than spacer size.

I think we're learning that 20mm may be a reasonable limit where sway and CVs all max out, so perhaps easy button at the moment is 2x OEM spacers? 17mm may be a good trade from a longer term durability perspective?
Click to expand...
Has anyone checked CV/Axle angle at full droop after stacking spacers ? What is considered max ?
 
Cruiserhead05 said:
These the 318's with 40mm offset? If so, what size tire did you go with?
Click to expand...
No, I WANTED them, but there was no way to confirm if 40mm offset would clear the Upper Control arm unless I actally bought one. So with the tire size I wanted: 285/70r18 (so 34"ish, with weighted height with 35psi is just a hair over 33") I ended up going with Method 707 with 25mm offset.

The tires poke out a bit more than I prefer, so now I think I need some paint protection film down the side of the truck to protect of dirt and gravel kicking up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom