Long Travel AHC

[TeCKis300]

Has anyone checked CV/Axle angle at full droop after stacking spacers ? What is considered max ?

Here's a thread that discusses it a bit. Anecdotally something like 28 degrees CV angle or less than 24mm stack. But those limits would also be subject to alignment so I'd give them a bit more margin as the CVs aren't as durable working at their maximums.

Same for me.... barley any throttle at full droop and ....Exploded inner and sheared mid shaft. I didn't have a grinder so I strapped it down. I think I was getting 28 degrees on factory cv at full droop...(guess that the just over the threshold)... according to rcv engineers I can run 32 degrees now... but I think I'll limit strap it at 28 degrees to be on the safe side

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[TeCKis300]

No, I WANTED them, but there was no way to confirm if 40mm offset would clear the Upper Control arm unless I actally bought one. So with the tire size I wanted: 285/70r18 (so 34"ish, with weighted height with 35psi is just a hair over 33") I ended up going with Method 707 with 25mm offset.

The tires poke out a bit more than I prefer, so now I think I need some paint protection film down the side of the truck to protect of dirt and gravel kicking up.

98% sure 285/70r18 would with OEM UCAs with a 40mm offset.

 

[eXpLoreLX]

98% sure 285/70r18 would with OEM UCAs with a 40mm offset.

The shop was telling me no way, and I was thinking back to everything I'd read on here and I thought they would work. But, Method was having a sale so to try them I would have had to buy them... and if they didn't work then I'd have to return and buy the others (at risk that the sale was now over).

So, what the hell, I went with the 707's, they ARE lighter by 1lbs each according to Methods website. But yeah, I would have slightly preferred (and still do) the 318's.

 

[AnyMal]

What is your opinion on max spacer thickness without having issue with cv/axle angle ?

I would say 20mm from my trial and error before AHC hose clamp and shock over compression become a concern.

 

[Expoguy]

What does the sensor lift provide in lift a

24mm of space without a sway bar. And 18 with a sway bar is where you want to be.

Your feeling stiff because you lost all your droop travel. If you do any sort of wheeling you will quickly notice it’s not sustainable especially in H mode.

Even if you decide to remove your sway bar and max out your spacers. You will still be lacking in overall droop needed to compensate for the bracket adjustment.

Stock adjustment gives you about 1-1.25 in of lift.

The system has its limitations. If you want 2-3 inches of lift your best bet is to max out the stock limitations (Sensor lift and tech stream). Add a top hat spacer to get some droop back and relieve some of your ahc pressure and the do a 1.25-1.5 in body lift.

24mm of space without a sway bar. And 18 with a sway bar is where you want to be.

Your feeling stiff because you lost all your droop travel. If you do any sort of wheeling you will quickly notice it’s not sustainable especially in H mode.

Even if you decide to remove your sway bar and max out your spacers. You will still be lacking in overall droop needed to compensate for the bracket adjustment.

Stock adjustment gives you about 1-1.25 in of lift.

The system has its limitations. If you want 2-3 inches of lift your best bet is to max out the stock limitations (Sensor lift and tech stream). Add a top hat spacer to get some droop back and relieve some of your ahc pressure and the do a 1.25-1.5 in body lift.

What does the max sensor adjustment give you in lift and same question for tech stream?

 

[lx200inAR]

What does the sensor lift provide in lift a



What does the max sensor adjustment give you in lift and same question for tech stream?

With simple modifications to the sensor brackets you can get as much lift as the system is physically capable of.

1.5" is probably the max you can get out of stock bracket.

There is a height offset utility (HOU) in Techstream that can afford you another .8" assuming your current offset number is currently 0. It goes from -.8 to +.8. The HOU isn't super strait forward but can certainly be used to get there.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Wonder if a non-KDSS Dobinsons stiffer swaybar in the rear with the rear shock drop from @turbo8 would help increase front flex after removing the front swaybar. I’ll consider putting more flex under “long travel” lol

 

[Killacaviar]

Wonder if a non-KDSS Dobinsons stiffer swaybar in the rear with the rear shock drop from @turbo8 would help increase front flex after removing the front swaybar. I’ll consider putting more flex under “long travel” lol

Physics says it would. I’m running a rear shock mount relocation and no front sway.

The truck stays good and level through and amount of articulation. Fully Stuffed to fully stuffed.

I just order the 33mm rear sway to bolt up and see what it does for articulation and road manners

 

[RHIN0]

Yea I'd stay clear of 28 degrees on factory joints... since then I have reduced spacer size to limit droop.... now that I'm running rcv's I want that droop back... it would have come in handy a few times

 

[AnyMal]

Physics says it would. I’m running a rear shock mount relocation and no front sway.

The truck stays good and level through and amount of articulation. Fully Stuffed to fully stuffed.

I just order the 33mm rear sway to bolt up and see what it does for articulation and road manners

I thought you liked to keep it with no bars? Still bar less upfront?

 

[Expoguy]

Probably no surprise, but I've been a big proponent oh AHC. Damping always dialed in regardless of load. Large fluid volumes and remote accumulator damper that stays cool with extended off-road travels. Actively pressurized for long term performance and durability. Combined with unique traits of adjustable height, load handling, and multi-rate springs for anti-brake dive and handling, there's a lot going for it.

But where does it come up short? Suspension travel due to shock length. Because length dictates maximum suspension droop of the suspension, it has until now limited travel to the stock 9" front and 10" rear. An area where aftermarket suspensions has a clear advantage.

This thread is about keeping all the goodness of AHC, while extending travel (droop) to 10.5" (+1.5") front and 11" (+1") rear.

Before anyone gets too excited, know that this is not an easy job and does require a certain amount patience, fabrication, and tools. It's also a great time to refresh the shocks, fluid, and maybe accumulators. I'm $1400 in parts all between the sales and sourcing OEM accumulators from Japan. A comparative steal.

It may be hard to see just how much more droop is added by looking at fender gaps, but pics are with 35s.

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Thanks for all your hard work and information ! I am getting started on things and so far so good.

Here's a thread that discusses it a bit. Anecdotally something like 28 degrees CV angle or less than 24mm stack. But those limits would also be subject to alignment so I'd give them a bit more margin as the CVs aren't as durable working at their maximums.

I definitely don't want to do that ! It's been a long time since I have to deal with cv's and axles when i raced and don't remember much. I do recall race prepped cv's had been clearanced to run more extreme angles and we ran huge outboard hubs and cv's to gain even more travel. I just had the 20mm spacer stack in front done, need to finish rear and check cv's at full droop.

 

[Expoguy]

That may be on the aggressive side and you'll likely be exceeding CV angles in droop and compromising the utility of AHC high. I think we've seen that with another build already. Separately, what tire size are you intending to run. Part of the challenge that LC guys run into is that tall static 3" lifts, create compromises in tire clearance, bump steer, and alignment issues. I'd recommend closer to a 2" sensor lift if only going down the path of only adding coilover extension.

If you do want to push the boundaries with more lift, there's probably other ingredients to add mix in. As I'm always scheming about what I'd do for the next level... If you're not already targeting 35s for more lift, I'd highly recommend that as tire lift is ultimately better than suspension lift. Beyond that, adding tundra arms for long travel to maintain better geometries with more lift. Then into 37s with mild body lift.

We just completed 20mm stack on the front, need complete rear and check cv/axle angle at full droop. After that I will be wanting to check AHC pressure and fine tune ride height.

 

[AnyMal]

We just completed 20mm stack on the front, need complete rear and check cv/axle angle at full droop. After that I will be wanting to check AHS pressure and fine tune ride height.

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What did the stud situation turn out to look like? Post a photo. Your ahc hose clamp should be just on the cusp if my eyeball estimations were correct.

 

[Expoguy]

What did the stud situation turn out to look like? Post a photo. Your ahc hose clamp should be just on the cusp if my eyeball estimations were correct.

What did the stud situation turn out to look like? Post a photo. Your ahc hose clamp should be just on the cusp if my eyeball estimations were correct.

 

[teejnut]

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Did you swap out the studs? What studs did you use?

BTW looks like Steve @ RPM did the work from that pic? Or am I mistaken?

 

[AnyMal]

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My mans sent an un-cropped screenshot! Now thats fast service!

Thanks champ!

 

[Expoguy]

Did you swap out the studs? What studs did you use?

BTW looks like Steve @ RPM did the work from that pic? Or am I mistaken?

Yes I did have the studs swapped for the longer ones mentioned in Long Travel AHC post for a sxs. STEVE at RPM did the installation of everything for me as well.

 

[TeCKis300]

Yea I'd stay clear of 28 degrees on factory joints... since then I have reduced spacer size to limit droop.... now that I'm running rcv's I want that droop back... it would have come in handy a few times

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I like the fender flares. Something different and works well for your rig. Are you going to add the rears too?

 

[nwfl4runner]

Getting around to installing the rear shock spacers - any concern about binding the rear sway bar end links? Think I’ll need to sleeve them?

 

[RHIN0]

I like the fender flares. Something different and works well for your rig. Are you going to add the rears too?

Yes... problem 1 is its a pinch seam and I'm reluctant to cut it in fear of inner and outer qtr schaffing due to loosing rigidity in qtr panal... a friend suggested rolling the opening which I am leaning towards... problem 2 is that the fuel fler door has a cut out in the flare which sets its location into one position... so I very well may have to install it in its factory location...just looks kinda silly having a huge opening in the front and not the rear