- Thread starter
- #401
What is this thing on the IP?
Why does the vacuum reservoir have a sensor?
Why does the vacuum reservoir have a sensor?
Build Live in Texas, drive a pickup: HDJ79 single cab build
- Thread starter bottombracket
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Idle up for AC maybe on the IP?
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I can’t really tell what that is on the IP but yes 70-series have a low vacuum warning light. There is also a check valve in the system.
Cheers
Cheers
@bottombracket that is the throttle position sensor used for emissions systems, don't need it for anything but that. The vacuum sensor is used on my more "luxury" models for a dummy light on the dash, in case it stops keeping vacuum or possible emission also.
- Thread starter
- #405
Nice! File that under “never hookin’ those things up!”
- Thread starter
- #406
All right, time to align this body.
@c2dfj45 was kind enough to measure his cab to frame distance at the rear of the cab. He is sitting at 7 3/4”. I’m about 7 7/16” - close enough to be called 7 1/2” in my book.
I am going to try to line this up keeping the OEM rear cab mounts @joekatana used and using some Energy Suspension poly bushings. I bought a couple of sets of varying durometer and thicknesses.
Let’s see where this all balances out.
@c2dfj45 was kind enough to measure his cab to frame distance at the rear of the cab. He is sitting at 7 3/4”. I’m about 7 7/16” - close enough to be called 7 1/2” in my book.
I am going to try to line this up keeping the OEM rear cab mounts @joekatana used and using some Energy Suspension poly bushings. I bought a couple of sets of varying durometer and thicknesses.
Let’s see where this all balances out.
- Thread starter
- #408
Joe, I think it’s exactly the opposite. The body is too high in the front but sits at the correct height in the rear. @c2dfj45 and my frame mounts sit within 1/4” of the same measurement at the rear of the cab.
The front mount is 8” from the frame on my truck whereas @c2dfj45’s is 5 1/2”. His inner fenders sit at least 1 inch below the top of the shock tower. My inner fenders sit an inch above the top of the shock tower. My fan hits the bottom of the radiator shroud. His is centered.
That is telling me that I have to drop the front fenders (and front of the cab) approximately 2 inches at the front while keeping the rear the same height.
To test this theory I loosened the rear mounts and took out the front and middle mounts. I replaced the middle cab mount with a 9/16” thick medium durometer poly mount. This bottomed out the front fenders on the front mount, which seemed promising.
By modifying the crossmember, I had previously gotten the shift tower to line up in the center of the shifter played in the cab. I hacked a third slot in the middle of the right frame to motor mount and bolted the drivetrain back in. As the left side frame to motor mount was no longer in contact, I temporarily stuck a 2 x 4 in place just to get it close.
Even taking 1.5 inches off the front, the fan still skimmed the bottom of the radiator shroud. Front to back placement of the drivetrain was good, but it was still too high in the front. I will have to come back and cut 2 inches out of the front mount.
The front mount is 8” from the frame on my truck whereas @c2dfj45’s is 5 1/2”. His inner fenders sit at least 1 inch below the top of the shock tower. My inner fenders sit an inch above the top of the shock tower. My fan hits the bottom of the radiator shroud. His is centered.
That is telling me that I have to drop the front fenders (and front of the cab) approximately 2 inches at the front while keeping the rear the same height.
To test this theory I loosened the rear mounts and took out the front and middle mounts. I replaced the middle cab mount with a 9/16” thick medium durometer poly mount. This bottomed out the front fenders on the front mount, which seemed promising.
By modifying the crossmember, I had previously gotten the shift tower to line up in the center of the shifter played in the cab. I hacked a third slot in the middle of the right frame to motor mount and bolted the drivetrain back in. As the left side frame to motor mount was no longer in contact, I temporarily stuck a 2 x 4 in place just to get it close.
Even taking 1.5 inches off the front, the fan still skimmed the bottom of the radiator shroud. Front to back placement of the drivetrain was good, but it was still too high in the front. I will have to come back and cut 2 inches out of the front mount.
- Thread starter
- #409
OEM 80 frame to body mount and rear cab mount using stock 80 mounts. This is lined up appropriately.
9/16” poly spacer in place at the front frame to cab mount. Note the difference in thickness.
Front fender now sitting 1.5 inches lower, directly on the top of the front fender mount.
9/16” poly spacer in place at the front frame to cab mount. Note the difference in thickness.
Front fender now sitting 1.5 inches lower, directly on the top of the front fender mount.
- Thread starter
- #411
Man, I wish I was too. So much fidgeting.
With a third slot cut into the right frame to motor mount, the right side of the motor seems supported in the correct location.
The left frame to motor mount will need to be moved back 2-3”. Here, I just wedged a 2 x 4 in place to get a rough estimate of fitment.
Motor position looks decently centered in the engine bay left to right, even in the absence of a real left motor mount.
Front to back, I like the depth of the fan in the shroud, but the fan still hits the bottom of the shroud. I need to drop another 2 inches out of the front mount to center the fan on the shroud.
With a third slot cut into the right frame to motor mount, the right side of the motor seems supported in the correct location.
The left frame to motor mount will need to be moved back 2-3”. Here, I just wedged a 2 x 4 in place to get a rough estimate of fitment.
Motor position looks decently centered in the engine bay left to right, even in the absence of a real left motor mount.
Front to back, I like the depth of the fan in the shroud, but the fan still hits the bottom of the shroud. I need to drop another 2 inches out of the front mount to center the fan on the shroud.
- Thread starter
- #412
Next problem: the turbo oil return line back to the block sits pretty close to the right frame to motor mount. The wide stock right fender motor mount look like it was going to cause some trouble.
And the skinny left mount needs to be widened posteriorly...hmmm...
I have frame cuts with an extra set of stock 80 mounts sitting in the barn from axles that @cruserjunktion had sent me. I hacked one of them out and it looks like if I swap left for right and vice versa, it’ll clear the oil line on the right and give me the posterior extension I need on the left.
Skinny left mount swapped to the right gives good clearance for both the turbo oil line and the water inlet. Of note, I had to take the water inlet off of the 1HZ while I trial fit it because it was hitting the wider right side of mount.
Let’s see where that gets us. I’ll try to get the other mount cut out Thursday or Friday, the next time I’ll be able to work on the truck.
And the skinny left mount needs to be widened posteriorly...hmmm...
I have frame cuts with an extra set of stock 80 mounts sitting in the barn from axles that @cruserjunktion had sent me. I hacked one of them out and it looks like if I swap left for right and vice versa, it’ll clear the oil line on the right and give me the posterior extension I need on the left.
Skinny left mount swapped to the right gives good clearance for both the turbo oil line and the water inlet. Of note, I had to take the water inlet off of the 1HZ while I trial fit it because it was hitting the wider right side of mount.
Let’s see where that gets us. I’ll try to get the other mount cut out Thursday or Friday, the next time I’ll be able to work on the truck.
I’m only half way. I still need to do the bed mounts after I shorten the bed. Never ending.
- Thread starter
- #414
Yeah, Cim. It’s always one thing after another, isn’t it?
At least I finally bought a Sawzall. I’ve wanted one for like 20 years. Did not disappoint. Also, I didn’t cut off any appendages, so I’m feeling good about that, too.
At least I finally bought a Sawzall. I’ve wanted one for like 20 years. Did not disappoint. Also, I didn’t cut off any appendages, so I’m feeling good about that, too.
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Custom fan shroud solve your probs?
Cheers
Cheers
- Joined
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- Thread starter
- #418
@coldtaco no, US domestic 1FZ frame to motor mounts. They don’t line up with the 79 cab/80 frame/diesel combo.
If I remember correctly I used 80 series engine and frame mounts on the one I put in a LJ-78, that was before I knew there was a HDJ79/78.
- Joined
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So I got the dipstick and tube in. Looks good to go to me, depth of the dipstick is the same even if the new one is taller.
Still need to test fit.
Cheers
Still need to test fit.
Cheers