Builds Live in Texas, drive a pickup: HDJ79 single cab build

SNLC

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Cruiser hunting
 
 
 
So the FT dipstick tube is truly NLA. I believe you got an FTE tube, it looks a little longer above the mount than the FT.

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The FTE is still available and it looks to me like it is simply a bit taller. So I think I am going to give that a go, you can see the one we got simply can’t go back on this pretty engine in it’s current condition.

Cheers
 

bottombracket

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Dipsticks and variations:

@SNLC you are totally right. The dipstick tube 11452-17011 that I got is too long (45cm). The FT tube is shorter by about 10cm (35cm in overall length).

There are also two dipstick variations, short and long. The 15301-17030 is identical to the dipstick out of the FT. It is 51cm from cap to tip. It sits about 7cm deep into the oil pan sump.

The longer variation is the 15301-17010 that is in my 1HDT and 1HZ. The 17010 is about 6cm longer than the 17030 - 57cm total length. When using the FTE tube and the longer 17010 dipstick, the dipstick only sits 2-3cm into the oil pan.

Guess I’m cleaning up the FT tube, unless there is another longer dipstick that sits at the same relative depth in the oil pan. I am at the barn without a laptop, and it’s hard to do part number research on my phone.
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bottombracket

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So I called up the Oracle of the Catskills and @Onur recommended I try 11452-17040 and 15301-17050. If there’s anyone out there in Cruiserland who has these two part numbers in hand, and can measure that dipstick tube and dipstick for me, that would be much appreciated.
 

SNLC

OCD
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Sep 9, 2004
Messages
5,703
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Cruiser hunting
 
 
 
Dipsticks and variations:

@SNLC you are totally right. The dipstick tube 11452-17011 that I got is too long (45cm). The FT tube is shorter by about 10cm (35cm in overall length).

There are also two dipstick variations, short and long. The 15301-17030 is identical to the dipstick out of the FT. It is 51cm from cap to tip. It sits about 7cm deep into the oil pan sump.

The longer variation is the 15301-17010 that is in my 1HDT and 1HZ. The 17010 is about 6cm longer than the 17030 - 57cm total length. When using the FTE tube and the longer 17010 dipstick, the dipstick only sits 2-3cm into the oil pan.

Guess I’m cleaning up the FT tube, unless there is another longer dipstick that sits at the same relative depth in the oil pan. I am at the barn without a laptop, and it’s hard to do part number research on my phone.View attachment 2255666View attachment 2255667View attachment 2255668View attachment 2255669View attachment 2255670
I don't imagine the pans are different depths? I need to sit down and cross reference a bit more perhaps before ordering. It's got to be just getting the right dipstick.

Cheers
 

bottombracket

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Or just cut the new FTE dipstick tube down 10cm.

Or wire wheel and chassis saver the original FT dipstick tube!
 

bottombracket

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I scoured the known parts sites and every site but one had the FT dipstick tube discontinued - Megazip. So I tossed an order in for 11452-17011. I bet I had ordered the 1HDFTE superseded part number 11452-17041... which does indeed need the @Onur-specified 15301-17050 dipstick. We shall see.
 

bottombracket

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@Onur ...every Thursday.

Pulled the correct master cylinder part number for my cab: 47201-60A00. This is a 2 bolt master. As it is disc front/drum rear, and I'm going to run 4 wheel 80 discs, I will need a proportioning valve. Looks like @Racer65 no longer carries his adjustable metric threaded 40 series proportioning valve. Crap.

Master cylinder to brake booster gasket: 47275-12020.

Clevis: 47264-26030
Clevis nut: 90179-10065

Brake booster: 44610-6A280. Mine is an Advics 131010-15400. This is the correct brake booster from 1/2007-onwards for most 70 series trucks, it seems.

Brake booster gasket #1: 44785-35020
Brake booster spacer: 44731-60020
Brake booster gasket #2: 44785-35030

And a booster bracket stopper ring, which is unavailable and I don't know what it does: 44735-30010.

On the brake pedal side:

Cross pin for clevis: 90249-10017
Cross pin cotter pin: 90468-16142
Brake pedal cushion pad: 90541-06036
Brake pedal return spring: 90507-14053
 

Mr Cimarron

DRIVE, BREAK, FIX, REPEAT
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Cedar Valley, Texas
 
Just don’t decide to make your own, like me, and stab it through your oil pan. It would have worked if I hadn’t left the tip sharp and a hair long.
 

bottombracket

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23 spot welds later...

I bought three spot weld cutters at Harbor Freight...and used two of them getting through this. I’ve seen homeless drug users with more teeth than those cheap spot cutters by the time I got done wrecking them.

A good center punch and a 1/16” drill bit for a pilot hole are good recommendations here.

It took me about a dozen spot welds before I got decent at this, as evidenced by the massive amount of skids and snail trails all over the shifter plate and cab floor. I only cut through 3 welds entirely. I’d consider that a success.

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Now: on to locating the engine and transmission.
 

bottombracket

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I started by putting the transmission insulator on the crossmember, and bolting it up to the stock location on the 80 frame. This put the right frame to motor mount in its original location, in the rear-most slot. The left frame to motor mount will need to be moved back. I have an extra frame cut with mount from @cruiserjunktion and will likely just cut this motor mount off, and weld in a new one 1.5-3” back.

I know that @c2dfj45 found middle ground by making a third slot 1.5” back on the right frame to motor mount. I’m worried because the full manual HF1A 3 position shifter has a long arc of travel for full actuation. Because that shifter is so rare and I can’t seem to find a duplicate on Partsouq or other places yet, I’m loath to cut it or bend it. I need to mount the transfer case and hook up the shifter before committing to a mount location. I also need to put the front clip back on to make sure it all fits up front.

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H151 shift tower with rear crossmember in stock location.

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Shift tower with correct shifter plate. Hits in the rear, but shifter plate position could easily be changed. Scooting the shifter plate back would just mean cementing it in back 1.5”. There is plenty of overlap.

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Right frame to motor mount in stock (rear slot) position.

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Left frame to motor mount hanging in space, as expected.
 

bottombracket

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The HF1A manual shifter also has two steel support gussets/bushings that do not fit up against the H151. I will either have to space it out with washers or something else- maybe they are removable. Pics for posterity.
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bottombracket

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Here are the 4 positions:
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H2

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H4

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LIFT (it’s spring loaded to drop back down if you let go)...then cross N into...

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L4

Pretty cool, actually.
 
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