Builds Let's build a 79 Series from parts...
- Thread starter c2dfj45
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c2dfj45
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- Thread starter
- #282
There are all kinds of custom radiator guys out there but then you get into shrouds, fans(electric conversions), etc. Probably a good setup for your build with the LS in an 80 frame with a 75 body. I think you've got it easy! Ha. I was too obsessed with sticking with Toyota on #1.
My biggest mistake on it was adding the supercharger after we had everything in place. I never really factored in how the motor was placed. It sits a little too far forward in the frame(it is on the stock mounts)..no big deal when not running a supercharger but that supercharger setup puts the fan too close to the rad....the fan is IN the shroud when it should be partially outside of it. Temps get too hot on that truck.
But I've got a bunch of new stuff to put in and try to change things around. The last change we made worked pretty well. If I still can't get it to work like I want it to, I will pull the blower and put in a turbo. Last resort though. Not looking to re-do #1 anytime soon.
I won't have room for a mechanic fan or a shroud. Only slim electric puller fans. I don't have heating issues in the 80 with the Cummins this way. Hoping for the same luck in the 75. I think I am working with 7" to put drive belt, rad, and fans.
Hopefully, considering the 1HZ is longer than the LS and uses a mechanical I might be ok. We'll see.
Less (no) wires, much more cfms (generally), usually a bit more reliable and less prone to failure. If they do fail, it's usually just the clutch seizing up which isn't the end of the world.
Looks like those flares will cover up my 315/75 just fine.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 200
- Messages
- 12,482
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
If you need another option for a radiator. I got one made by PWR Australia, aluminum. They have all the dimensions for I think all of the models for the 70 series, or at least Australian ones. You can customize the radiator any way you want and tell them to make it fit your specific application. You can lengthen it, shorten it, move the inlet/outlet, maybe thicker/thinner? Just be sure to include a drain cock. I thought a drain cock would be standard but it isn't so mine did not come with one since I didn't order one. When you first contact them they will probably put you in contact with the US office who will then put you in contact with their Australian office 
They make a very nice aluminum radiator. A bit spendy, oh well
They make a very nice aluminum radiator. A bit spendy, oh well
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 200
- Messages
- 12,482
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
If you need another option for a radiator. I got one made by PWR Australia, aluminum. They have all the dimensions for I think all of the models for the 70 series, or at least Australian ones. You can customize the radiator any way you want and tell them to make it fit your specific application. You can lengthen it, shorten it, move the inlet/outlet, maybe thicker/thinner? Just be sure to include a drain cock. I thought a drain cock would be standard but it isn't so mine did not come with one since I didn't order one. When you first contact them they will probably put you in contact with the US office who will then put you in contact with their Australian office
I have had a custom built PWR as well. It was an excellent radiator and was built to bolt in just like a stock rad.
Cheers
c2dfj45
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- Thread starter
- #295
Got some good time in today to spray our sound deadener/thermal coating. Really liked the way the Second Skin Spectrum went down. Thinking next time I might just slop it in with a brush. Took a number of coats to build up 1mm . Probably could have gone thicker with it but I'll have the undersides of the cab done in this too so not overly worried about thickness.
Every time a cab goes from white to black with coating it kind of bums me out for some reason. I love seeing them all new and clean inside.
Next step will be to probably pop the cab off the frame so we can start to do the coatings on the underside of the floors and the front and rear cab walls.
Every time a cab goes from white to black with coating it kind of bums me out for some reason. I love seeing them all new and clean inside.
Next step will be to probably pop the cab off the frame so we can start to do the coatings on the underside of the floors and the front and rear cab walls.
bjowett
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Low on room? Hydraulic fan.
c2dfj45
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- Thread starter
- #298
Made a decision to pull off the front end today...I'd like to work on the front crossmember that we need to move. Lots of dissecting to get that forward a few inches. I was going to spray the firewall of the cab(engine side) with Spectrum but I think I'm going to leave it. The firewall really seems really well insulated. Not sure I want to go thru all the hassle of it. I don't think that 1HDT is going to run very hot in the firewall area......I think focusing on the floorboards and trans tunnel is way more important. So that's where we will spend our time.
The 76's jute/sound insulator works great in the cab of the 79. Only off by 2 holes.
The 76's jute/sound insulator works great in the cab of the 79. Only off by 2 holes.
I’m stuck at the crossmember as well. I really don’t want to move it. Right now I would need another inch up on the body with the HZJ75 rad spaced up 3/4” off the crossmember. Then hood closes but the rad cap is touching. The 80 rad fits but is wide. I’m going to try a 60 rad before making the call.
Also waiting to watch you move it to see how much work it would be. Good luck.
Also waiting to watch you move it to see how much work it would be. Good luck.
c2dfj45
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- Thread starter
- #300
It's some work to move but no biggie. Might make new top and bottom gusset pieces instead of trying to carefully cut the OEM gussets out and reuse. We thought we might slice it off with a sawzal....cut right thru the gussets along the frame. We'll see how we feel once we get going.
I need to try and crawl around under # 1 to see where I moved it. I will do this one exactly the same.
I think we do the cross member relocation....then we get the motor in the truck and see how things look.
This truck had a 1HDT(maybe a 1HZ turbo?) already mounted at some point......I don't expect any issues. Which usually means we will have issues.
