LC100 headers install and tcase regear

[frawstme]

I notched the web of the shift fork too bc it was just knicking the edge.

mine is an issue, i think im going to have to buy a new one. the slide ring catches on it now.

debating grinding the two teeth down a bit but not 100% sure thats the smartest idea

..by any chance, any idea on the orientation of those two rings? its not an easy thing to find

edit;
its not even in the FSM

DISASSEMBLY | Repair Manual | TRANSFER (Full-Time 4WD Type) | CENTE...

Comprehensive information on DISASSEMBLY in the Repair Manual TRANSFER (Full-Time 4WD Type) CENTER DIFFERENTIAL section for the LC100 service manual.

lc100e.github.io

 

[frawstme]

It took a decade but I finally got it separated. Now I'm stuck on something different, having a hard time finding it. I accidentally popped these rings out but I don't know what orientation there's supposed to go back in

View attachment 4149817

@hoser hi good morning, any input on this? Its not in FSM, and out of all the videos this was the clearest frame that I could find of them:

I took a closer look and fiddled around some

It seems like the small ring is too small for the wider chamber, it loosely sits in there. So I'm thinking it goes in the narrow area bottomed out on the rear of this picture

The wide ring might just get pressed partially in. The total height of the two rings is less than the total height of the hole. That silver line is probably where the bottom of the wider bushing sits

as to orientation I have no idea. There's channels on both of the bushings

 

[hoser]

Here's another video.... they are both snug...

 

[Dirt J]

A shot of those pieces inside that ring is in this pic I took

 

[Dirt J]

Another from the 80 section

 

[frawstme]

Here's another video.... they are both snug...

That's the video that I took that screenshot from, you can't see the inside of it for the orientation or the positioning. he shows the section thats attached to the shaft pretty clearly but not the section that I'm trying to figure out

A shot of those pieces inside that ring is in this pic I took

View attachment 4150088

thanks man, i wish the oil channels were visible

i think im going to flush the big one to the inside surface and the small one to the outside surface, and just guess at the oil channels.

 

[frawstme]

ehh this can't be right, the wear mark is lower

 

[frawstme]

I got both input/output shafts pressed in and all clusters fully assembled. The one side of the case is fully cut and the other is partially

What is keeping me from finishing up is that I didn't realize the rebuild kit didn't come with C rings. One of them I was able to use a c ring from my wheel bearing kit, but this one is too big

I thought the "B" was an identifier but it's not, I have a 'B' c ring that is much smaller. Trying to figure out where to find this

 

[Dirt J]

B is the width of the ring. I don't recall if they get larger or smaller as they go up in alpha.

 

[frawstme]

Finished cutting and assembling as far as I could

I just need to press a bearing onto the bottom of the large cluster and start to test fitment and make sure all the gears mesh well

I intended on working on my headers tonight but spent a lot of time on cleaning the case parts to make sure all metal shavings were out. I'm pretty much stuck here on the tcase until the snap rings come in that I ordered, which is probably gonna be a week

The issue with working on the headers in the meantime is that I need to be able to start my motor to heat it, so I tried that and ATF rocketed out of the transmission clear across my garage

 

[Weetabix]

I keep just soaking more with PB blaster while I work on the tcase

I've read that Kroil works better than PB blaster and that a half and half mixture of acetone and ATF works better than Kroil.

You're a braver man than I tackling a job like this.

 

[frawstme]

Formally started my headers today. Honestly until this part it has been relatively painless. I started on the driver's side, I had issues with the frontmost bottom bolt and the rearmost top bolt but it wasn't too bad

Size comparison

The surface was dirty but no pitting

Cleaned it up with scotchbright and plastic razors, brake clean. Ran a thread chaser on each stud because I don't like the idea of trying to remove them and potentially breaking one. These aren't really in bad shape anyways

The problem currently is just fitting the new headers on. It's like they are slightly too small, even if i press them on evenly

I'm thinking of filing down the left side of two of the mounting holes.. gonna play around and try to make it fit again first though

I don't know if it is because i have the cats and driveshafts off but I didn't have to lift the motor at all and the headers slid right out and in with no problems

edit, just noticed that there is practically no clearance on the steering rack. thats a bit concerning

 

[jaewastooshort]

edit, just noticed that there is practically no clearance on the steering rack. thats a bit concerning

talking about the steering shaft coming from the firewall? that should gain more clearance as you get the header flange actually mounted up to the block.

 

[frawstme]

talking about the steering shaft coming from the firewall? that should gain more clearance as you get the header flange actually mounted up to the block.

Yeah, you're right, looks a lot better now that it's mostly bolted in

I'm realizing now that the difficulty in doing your headers is not getting the old ones off, but putting the new ones in. The shape is so significantly different that it's extremely hard to tighten the bolts. There's no chance that I'll get a torque wrench in there either

This job would be impossible without these little mini wrenches

The bottom bolts are tough. One of them the only access was from a tiny passage under the car. Used an extension and swivel tool, had to tape the swivel tool just to make it stay in place and hold the bolt

what I'm really stuck on right now is this last stud. I can barely even fit the bolt there, much less a socket or wrench. My finger tips can't really reach it. I don't know how people do this one, the space is super tight

I've tried reaching around from the rear side bottom, and the front side top, I just can't get the nut to fit on. It's driving me nuts

 

[frawstme]

So to get that bolt on, it had to be the first bolt to go on. That allowed it the space to fit in. So I took them all off them started that one then put them all back on, it was no fun. If anyone else installs rhino headers, that's the bottom bolt second from the front.

Everything's on and tightened now on the driver's side

I made another mistake too. The description states that you have to remove the O2 sensor wiring brackets to allow it to reach, I didn't think of that til I had everything installed. It was a massive hassle, should've done it when the headers were off.

Even then though, I cut three mounts and the wire just barely reaches.

It's touching the pipe in two places which obviously isn't going to work out. Anyone know where to get extensions for the O2 cord?

Edit;
Also to even get the headers on I had to drill the holes wider. The fit was too tight no matter how I wiggled them or what angle of pressure I used

 

[ChroniclerCruiser]

5. Route the passenger side O2 sensor harness ABOVE the header. I did mine below initially and found that it rubbed the header and would melt due to heat. I rerouted it above and have no issues and plenty of clearance. There may be other ways to do this but I found this to be the best way. I released the 2 harness clips and ran the wiring up towards the top of the engine bay and then back down above the collector to the O2 sensor.

I found this on the Doug Thorley header install thread, hopefully this helps and you don't have to buy extensions of some kind!

 

[ben322]

As a precaution, I used some aluminized header wrap on the wire. It comes in many different sizes and some designed for things like the AC line with a velcro closure.

 

[jaewastooshort]

So to get that bolt on, it had to be the first bolt to go on.

I had the same issue with one of the DT headers when I did the install, and at least it was only my next-to-last nut on that side. I had to get all the nuts started on the studs before I could start tightening any of them, as it seems like there were at least a couple that had just a hair too little clearance with the header flange against the block, I just missed one my first time.

Looking good though, I'm interested to hear a review on how these sound

 

[frawstme]

I found this on the Doug Thorley header install thread, hopefully this helps and you don't have to buy extensions of some kind!

That is useful, I'll give it a shot when I get off tonight. I had considered it but it seems like a longer path. I looked at extensions last night but it's kind of hard to find them for these connectors.

As a precaution, I used some aluminized header wrap on the wire. It comes in many different sizes and some designed for things like the AC line with a velcro closure.

Ahh good thinking I will look into that too

 

[Hokie LX]

I found this on the Doug Thorley header install thread, hopefully this helps and you don't have to buy extensions of some kind!

That is useful, I'll give it a shot when I get off tonight. I had considered it but it seems like a longer path. I looked at extensions last night but it's kind of hard to find them for these connectors.


Ahh good thinking I will look into that too

I wrote the DT install thread. FWIW, I didn't use an extension. I only rerouted the harness away.