LC100 headers install and tcase regear

[frawstme]

I wrote the DT install thread. FWIW, I didn't use an extension. I only rerouted the harness away.

I'm hoping that's the case and I'll give it my best shot but I wonder if the DT headers are as long as the rhino headers, there's a significant difference between these and OEM

It's about another ~13 inches of length

 

[Scotty UZJ100]

I'm hoping that's the case and I'll give it my best shot but I wonder if the DT headers are as long as the rhino headers, there's a significant difference between these and OEM

View attachment 4153009

It's about another ~13 inches of length

Rhinos are longer. The DT headers mount up to the factory cat mid pipe

 

[frawstme]

Rhinos are longer. The DT headers mount up to the factory cat mid pipe

i just finished looking at some pics of the dt headers and didn't really realize that until now to be honest. I listened to some videos of people running DT headers and they were a little louder than stock but not in a very noticable way, that's kind of what I was aiming for when going aftermarket over OEM. hopefully these don't change the sound significantly

 

[Scotty UZJ100]

i just finished looking at some pics of the dt headers and didn't really realize that until now to be honest. I listened to some videos of people running DT headers and they were a little louder than stock but not in a very noticable way, that's kind of what I was aiming for when going aftermarket over OEM. hopefully these don't change the sound significantly

Oh buddy you're in for a surprise then

 

[frawstme]

Only had about an hour this evening but started on the passenger side. Removed mount for oil dip stick then the headers themselves, which I didn't have any issues with

unlike the driver's side, these buldge out alot. I could tell that there was going to be space issues. Half of the studs came out with the nuts

Cleaned it up and decided to remove the rest of them. It was really easy, I wish I had tried the other side but I was too anxious about snapping a stud

I wanted them all out because in my head it wouldve been easier to install the headers then put the studs in place while holding the headers

Hard to get pics

well anyways it turns out I was wrong. It's nearly impossible to hand tighten the studs into the motor. I don't know what type of tool grabs the end of the headers, but I don't have anything other than pliers (and they're too big).

Gonna think on this while I'm at work tomorrow and revisit it tomorrow evening

 

[GTV]

hopefully these don't change the sound significantly

Oh buddy you're in for a surprise then

When I installed headers on my old Tundra I noticed no difference in volume. The tick was gone though.

 

[Scotty UZJ100]

Removing a cat and replacing the other with a high flow will definitely make a sound difference.

 

[frawstme]

some of the snap rings came in today. They were all ordered from Toyota and had Toyota parts number labels on them, but two of them do not look OEM. There's no A/B/C/D marking and they're black instead of silver

 

[frawstme]

I spent about four hours after work today attempting to install the passenger side header. Lots of trial and error, a few lessons learned and in the end my job has just gotten bigger.

I knew already that I couldn't install them with the studs all in so I took one out at a time and tried a few combinations of studs til I could get them to fit.

The only combination of studs that allows the header to fit is the front most top stud, and the front most two bottom studs. One I got it fitted I spent a great deal of time trying to hand thread the remaining studs in, but it was wasted effort

The passenger side header is the same as the driver's side, it doesn't fit perfectly. You have to drill the four corner holes to be wider- drill them on the outer most side. That allows fitment.

So I took it off and did that, then remounted and tried to rethread but it was impossible. At this point three hours had passed and I resigned to lifting the motor and removing the motor mount

It doesn't need to be completely removed, but this much allowed the header to mount with all the studs in the motor

The unfortunate side is that I was being very conscious of my fan blade and the shroud when I was lifting the motor, I didn't pay attention to much else. Coolant started to pour out from above my motor while I was under it trying to mount the header.

It looks like it came from here. I was a bit frustrated though and didn't investigate much, called it a night. Hopefully that's a generic coolant hose that I can just find a replacement at AutoZone.

Tomorrow I'll finish up the headers and see where exactly the coolant came from. If there's any remaining time I should be able to assemble my transfer case, depending on if I need new shims or not

 

[Dirt J]

Oh man. The first thing any respectable 100 owner does before the first fill-up even is replace those heater tees!!!

Here's the bees knees brass ones. Patch has the hoses too if needed/desired.

(Mine let go while pumping gas one day. I had the replacements at home but had been procrastinating. )

 

[frawstme]

Oh man. The first thing any respectable 100 owner does before the first fill-up even is replace those heater tees!!!

Here's the bees knees brass ones. Patch has the hoses too if needed/desired.

oh no I haven't read anything about heater tees, but i thought that looked like a hose that stretched and snapped. I really didn't get a close look, Ill look at it tomorrow morning.

That page says 'sold individually' and you said 'tees', how many are there?

edit;
looking at the picture more closely now i see that it's definitely a tee, my bad

 

[Dirt J]

Yes, two tees. Return and supply for rear heater under left side front seat. Details here.

EDIT: it's like a running punch line around here whenever anyone new shows up with a new truck to ask if they've replaced them yet. The original ones are plastic and get super brittle. After years of searching, proper OE brass replacements (correct OD) were sourced.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Should have bought the c-clip kit from Cruiser Outfitters, all of them in one bag, easy. That's not a hose, it's a plastic T, you'll want to replace it and be careful about not getting plastic down the hose. There's two, there's another right behind the one in your pic. Thread in the FAQ on them.

 

[frawstme]

Yes, two tees. Return and supply for rear heater under left side front seat. Details here.

EDIT: it's like a running punch line around here whenever anyone new shows up with a new truck to ask if they've replaced them yet. The original ones are plastic and get super brittle. After years of searching, proper OE brass replacements (correct OD) were sourced.

Should have bought the c-clip kit from Cruiser Outfitters, all of them in one bag, easy. That's not a hose, it's a plastic T, you'll want to replace it and be careful about not getting plastic down the hose. There's two, there's another right behind the one in your pic. Thread in the FAQ on them.

ok thanks- I ordered new tees. Good looking out on getting plastic down in the hoses, hopefully that's not an issue. At first glance it looks like that might be difficult with how it's broken flush. I wish that didnt happen, i dont feel like dealing with it. I still have to get the headers on, fix+seal my speedo sensor, assemble my tcase, hope i dont need new shims, put my tcase on, fix my drive shafts, figure out how to mount them correctly without matchmarks..

as for the c-clip kit from outfitters, I didn't see that. Their new website is kind of difficult to search for specific things. I have been trying to find a shim kit everywhere and I thought they might have one, spent a long time searching but had no luck. The way the filters reset when you select a second filter drives me crazy and when you search by vehicle it doesn't show 90% of the results. I like the company and staff but the new website's search feature is no good

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Clamp the hose below the plastic. I used OEM plastic to replace mine, they made it 250k and I could have them next day at the dealer. I searched for "snap ring" on Cruiserteq, the kit was in the top row of results. Anyway, good luck with the headers.

 

[Dirt J]

I'd just bank on having the driveshafts balanced. No need to sweat the assembly that way.

 

[frawstme]

Clamp the hose below the plastic. I used OEM plastic to replace mine, they made it 250k and I could have them next day at the dealer. I searched for "snap ring" on Cruiserteq, the kit was in the top row of results. Anyway, good luck with the headers.

Cruiser Teq

Cruiser Teq is the premier provider of high quality OEM, Japanese, and aftermarket Toyota Land Cruiser parts and accessories.

cruiserteq.com

crazy, it doesn't for me. the only snap ring kit that comes up is the front wheel one, and that's what I already have (mentioned it in a earlier post)- none of those rings fit

I'd just bank on having the driveshafts balanced. No need to sweat the assembly that way.

Yeah you're right, i'm just a bit impatient. Haven't had a car of my own for about two weeks now

 

[frawstme]

I got passenger side completely installed.

Now the issue that I'm having is that the header is too close to the motor mount to tighten the bolt

i will be glad when this project is done

Edit,
I got it from below with a small flexhead wrench. It's probably not torqued as much as it should be but I don't have any other options with such limited leverage

The headers are done. I'll post a write up once I finish the tcase and link it in the main post so that people don't have to read through all the pages

 

[frawstme]

Back to the tcase. I started reassembly, did a dry fit and the gears wouldn't budge. For some reason the fork is dragging on the big gear at the rear end and nearly dragging at the side

had to cut it a bit per @Dirt J s thread

Second dry fit there was some issues with everything spinning evenly but I figured out it was because of the big race wasn't seated quite right.

After that I deep cleaned all parts of the case to be sure there were no remaining metal shavings or particles.

Then I started actually assembling it, but the third assembly my input gear got wedged somehow and I can't get it out now

Between finishing the headers and this it has been a really long day so I decided to pick back up tomorrow. My O2 sensor extensions came in too, so I went ahead and installed the passenger side's

 

[frawstme]

Rip guess I won't be finishing this today

edit:
since this is the outer seal on the front half of the case, couldn't I just assemble the rest of the case and press it from the rear with the input shaft installed? or would there be an issue with that