From Japan to my garage: RHD UZJ100 LC- my first post and first Cruiser

[frawstme]

Hey everyone,

I figured it was time to start a build thread since I just picked up my first Land Cruiser, a 2000 UZJ100, and I’m honestly pretty excited about it. I’ve always respected these trucks and the reputation they have for durability and capability so it feels pretty great to finally own one.

I previously drove a built Tacoma, but I’ve spent quite a bit of time lurking around here trying to learn about the 100 Series. When my daily driver died a few weeks ago, I was already keeping an eye out for a clean 1998–2002 truck, so when this one came up it felt like an amazing opportunity.

This will be a long-term project/build thread where I document maintenance, upgrades, and whatever trips the truck ends up taking me on

The Truck
2000 Toyota Land Cruiser (UZJ100W)
4.7L 2UZ-FE V8
Miles: ~103k
RHD Imported from Japan
Fully stock except 33" tires, wheels, and a Ganador exhaust

Work that's been done (updated 5/24):

Current Condition and things i've noticed so far:
-Transmission pan gasket has a very minor seep
-It has a Japanese radio that needs to be replaced with an after market radio
-Rear rotors look rutted
-It's slow to start up
-Radiator is working normally to keep the temperatures normal, but there's a section of it that looks fairly damaged on the surface of the front
-Front diff is shreded, it will be the first major failure for me to deal with. I'm gonna let it die and deal with it then
-Drivers window master switch is failing intermittently. seems like the panel is loose. Works when I press down on it


Things on my list (updated 5/24):

I'm definitely looking forward to learning from everyone here. The knowledge base in this community is incredible. If there's anything that I should be checking that isn't listed, please let me know- especially about JDM compatibility

I’ll keep updating this thread as the work progresses.

Thanks for having me!

 

[frawstme]

 

[frawstme]

I made that post last night before bed.. i didn't know that you can't edit posts here

Anyways, initially i just wanted to replace the CVs and sway bar links first but then I saw exit offroad had dobinson kits/ the SPC ucas on sale and it felt like it'd save me future labor to knock that out. Then I watched a video on lower ball joints and figured i might as well throw that in..then this video where he starts off by saying he regretting not doing the diff seals when he did his CVs so i bought those.

So for my first project im doing front shocks + ucas + lower ball joint + cv axle + diff seals

So I was wondering.. is there anything else I should do while I'm down there?

 

[excessive]

really nice truck, it looks like a cream puff - very well cared for.
my question is why? if i were going to put up with / live with RHD - there better be a worthwhile trade off, like a diesel engine or something. what made you want to get the V8 ?

 

[hoser]

Really clean cruiser. You're on the right track. New accounts can't edit posts due to spam and such. After some time, you will be able to... or I recommend getting a star and most those ads and restrictions will go away.

 

[frawstme]

really nice truck, it looks like a cream puff - very well cared for.
my question is why? if i were going to put up with / live with RHD - there better be a worthwhile trade off, like a diesel engine or something. what made you want to get the V8 ?

Thanks! Honestly the RHD didn't bother me when I was looking at them, but I am having some issues with finding parts that I wasn't expecting. Also I didn't think about drive throughs lol

I picked a V8 primarily because I'm not an experienced mechanic. I've never touched a diesel before. I'm still learning the ins and outs of gas motors, I wanted something that would be easier for me to work on.

I know that it would be a lot harder getting parts for it too. If I lived in Australia or Europe, I probably would’ve gone diesel. But in the U.S., the V8 is just more practical for my situation.

And thanks @hoser I'm looking forward to that, I made my post before my account was active and left some things in there that I didn't mean to.

Off topic but Toyota called me today and asked if I meant to order two of the same CV axles..he said the truck uses two different sizes and I needed to order 4343060082 and 4341060022. I saw online that they are the same and when I search toyotas website there's like twenty part numbers. Do I need to cancel this order?

 

[hoser]

That is the thing about JDMs.... you have to get really familiar with the parts catalog because the parts are often different. Like the power steering hose you need... if it is the pressure feed hose, you'll likely have to source that from Japan.

Re: CV's... Your current parts person is not correct. One of those PN's is for a FJ Cruiser/150 series. The CV's are the same left and right, JDM and US are the same too. 43430-60040

 

[frawstme]

That is the thing about JDMs.... you have to get really familiar with the parts catalog because the parts are often different. Like the power steering hose you need... if it is the pressure feed hose, you'll likely have to source that from Japan.

Re: CV's... Your current parts person is not correct. One of those PN's is for a FJ Cruiser/150 series. The CV's are the same left and right, JDM and US are the same too. 43430-60040

Yeah..I was anticipating some parts being a bit harder than others, but it's been a little more difficult than I thought. Toyota parts catalogs are kinda chaotic and there's a bunch of part numbers that overlap for the same part. I had to get OEM floor mats too from eBay, because I can't find aftermarket RHD floor mats anywhere. There is a company in Australia that sells them, but they won't shop to US.

I'm also having issues finding a replacement window master switch. Mine has the wood grain and the Japanese catalog lists 3 or 4 different part numbers with no details about the differences in style. I need to replace the actual window motors at some point too and I don't know if they be the same parts that US models use. I'm gonna be in for a trip over these next few months

Thanks for the info on the CV, that's a big relief.

 

[hoser]

I can't really see but it looks like your window switch has an overlay over the original black finish (similar to your center console around the HVAC). A lot of people heat it up and remove the overlay without damage. If you can't remove the overlay on the shifter, the OE all black, non-leather one is relatively cheap.

 

[frawstme]

I can't really see but it looks like your window switch has an overlay over the original black finish (similar to your center console around the HVAC). A lot of people heat it up and remove the overlay without damage. If you can't remove the overlay on the shifter, the OE all black, non-leather one is relatively cheap.

That's good to know, thanks for the info.

When I did the suspension on my Tacoma, I had someone who was very experienced with me walking me through everything. I've watched a bunch of videos of different installs at this point, so I feel fairly confident about doing it on my own.. but I did have a few questions:

For SPC UCA's- I don't know which setting to pick. I'm not doing anything crazy with it for a while. For now it's going to sit on 33's and maybe a 2" torsion lift once I pick a set of rear springs (i also have no idea which to pick). This is a daily driver for me and I want a comfortable ride. Off road use will be trail camping a few times a year, and those trails aren't real serious. I read a lot of conflicting information about the install setting for these UCAs, so any advice would be helpful

I'm also wondering if there's a walkthrough guide or beginner's tips for this somewhere that I'm missing- Like I said, I'm not a very experienced mechanic and this will be a learning experience for me.

The last question is that I've noticed a buzzing/vibration when the car is idling at stop lights and I don't know if it's normal and I'm over thinking or if it's something unusual. It's not a long constant vibration, it happens in 1-2 second intervals and I can feel it in my steering wheel/ chassis. The RPM stays steady, it's not bouncing so it's not the motor itself.

It's basically impossible to describe with text but if I were to attempt it's just this constant rythmatic bbzZ . . . bbzZ . . . bbzZ . . . bbzZ . . . bbzZ . . . bbzZ . . .

 

[hoser]

I'd recommend 4 degrees of caster and try to do most of the adjustments on the SPC. It'll probably be position "B." When dialed, mark the position with a paint pen in case it were to knock out of alignment.

 

[Synaps3]

Glad to see another JDM v8 make it to the states! I don't know why people get so weird about it. They are cheaper to buy from japan, the v8 has better mechanic support in the US, and it's in every way other than seat position a pretty regular land cruiser.

I will tell you that I have had no problems sourcing parts, everything has been land cruiser standard so far. Some shops flip out when they can't search by VIN for parts but I have no trouble at all finding parts and nothing has been japan specific yet.

Tell me, if you take your glovebox down, do you have a space for a cabin air filter? I found mine has a cabin air filter space, but the JDM models never actually had an air filter sold for them. I'm working on making a custom filter and perhaps you would like one. This video shows how to find the cabin air filter slot, except mine (and from a few other posts here, all the other JDM versions, too) is about half the depth necessary to fit a replacement land cruiser filter.

 

[x8o8drifter]

Glad to see another JDM v8 make it to the states! I don't know why people get so weird about it. They are cheaper to buy from japan, the v8 has better mechanic support in the US, and it's in every way other than seat position a pretty regular land cruiser.

I will tell you that I have had no problems sourcing parts, everything has been land cruiser standard so far. Some shops flip out when they can't search by VIN for parts but I have no trouble at all finding parts and nothing has been japan specific yet.

Tell me, if you take your glovebox down, do you have a space for a cabin air filter? I found mine has a cabin air filter space, but the JDM models never actually had an air filter sold for them. I'm working on making a custom filter and perhaps you would like one. This video shows how to find the cabin air filter slot, except mine (and from a few other posts here, all the other JDM versions, too) is about half the depth necessary to fit a replacement land cruiser filter.

Because people who do buy them fail to say WHY they bought them. All of your reasons are damn good ones.

Good quality well taken care of ones can be had for WAY cheaper, even when you factor in the cost of importing it.
What might be a 15-18k 100 here is the USA could be bought and imported from Japan for closer to 10-12k.
But there aren't many who will admit to what they paid for the thing.
Will you?

Every single person I've ever known who has actually gone through the process did it for these things only.
Engine we never had here.
Model or trim we never had here. (Usually a rare trim and they have the car as an investment)
Clean low mileage options can be had for cheap. (It gets more and more expensive to insure an older car than a newer one in Japan. The 100 would easily be over a grand extra per year on the registration)

 

[frawstme]

I'd recommend 4 degrees of caster and try to do most of the adjustments on the SPC. It'll probably be position "B." When dialed, mark the position with a paint pen in case it were to knock out of alignment.

Thanks again, will do!

Glad to see another JDM v8 make it to the states! I don't know why people get so weird about it. They are cheaper to buy from japan, the v8 has better mechanic support in the US, and it's in every way other than seat position a pretty regular land cruiser.

I will tell you that I have had no problems sourcing parts, everything has been land cruiser standard so far. Some shops flip out when they can't search by VIN for parts but I have no trouble at all finding parts and nothing has been japan specific yet.

Tell me, if you take your glovebox down, do you have a space for a cabin air filter? I found mine has a cabin air filter space, but the JDM models never actually had an air filter sold for them. I'm working on making a custom filter and perhaps you would like one. This video shows how to find the cabin air filter slot, except mine (and from a few other posts here, all the other JDM versions, too) is about half the depth necessary to fit a replacement land cruiser filter.

I wouldn't say they are cheaper, not on the east coast at least. I wasn't specifically looking for RHD but I was definitely looking for a low mileage uzj100 with no rust under it, that was stock. Those were basically the only requirements...also I prefer white but I would've taken another color if the right one came along. I found several private party with ~100k miles on them that were less money than this one but in northeast US they are all covered in rust. I definitely paid a premium for this one, and thats with me knowing that the CVs would need to be replaced. I'm ok with it though, it's what I was looking for.

Good to hear about sourcing parts, the stuff I've been looking for has been kind of tough to find affordably, but I've been able to find it. The big next purchase for me is the tire swing, I hate how naked it looks in the back.

I will pull my glove box tomorrow. That's super weird about the cabin filter.. I guess they don't use them in Japan because of the outside air quality? There's still a lot of pollen there though

Because people who do buy them fail to say WHY they bought them. All of your reasons are damn good ones.

Good quality well taken care of ones can be had for WAY cheaper, even when you factor in the cost of importing it.
What might be a 15-18k 100 here is the USA could be bought and imported from Japan for closer to 10-12k.
But there aren't many who will admit to what they paid for the thing.
Will you?

Every single person I've ever known who has actually gone through the process did it for these things only.
Engine we never had here.
Model or trim we never had here. (Usually a rare trim and they have the car as an investment)
Clean low mileage options can be had for cheap. (It gets more and more expensive to insure an older car than a newer one in Japan. The 100 would easily be over a grand extra per year on the registration)

you're gonna laugh at me when I tell you this, but mine was $25k with 100k miles. I wish I could've found one this clean for lower cost but there's just not much within 5 or 6 hours of me. I do really like this one though, and I'm happy with it

 

[frawstme]

The dobinsons IMS, SPC UCAs, sway bar bushings, 555 lower ball joints, diff seals, and new CVs all came in. Almost have everything for my front suspension

 

[x8o8drifter]

you're gonna laugh at me when I tell you this, but mine was $25k with 100k miles. I wish I could've found one this clean for lower cost but there's just not much within 5 or 6 hours of me. I do really like this one though, and I'm happy with it

Not when something comparable would be roughly the same price or more but way harder to find locally or even in the US.
And is it miles or KM? 103 miles is low, but in km that 'd make it 64k miles.

 

[frawstme]

Not when something comparable would be roughly the same price or more but way harder to find locally or even in the US.
And is it miles or KM? 103 miles is low, but in km that 'd make it 64k miles.

That's in miles, I wish it was in km

I started working on my suspension after work today and made good progress, but I'm a little stuck. I got everything off one side except the UCAs, got the new diff seal in then moved onto the other side.

Unfortunately my puller broke on the first lower ball joint and now I'm a little stuck. I thought if I disconnected top ball joint that it would make the bottom one disconnect but that didn't work either..

I've absolutely smashed it with a mallet, wiggled it all over, I can't get it off. Should I disconnect my shocks and sway bar? I honestly don't even understand what's holding it in place right now

Here's the condition of the old parts on the other side. Note where my puller head snapped off on the first lower ball joint lol

 

[frawstme]

Actually, would I have better luck removing the ball joint from the lower control arm? Or would that make things more difficult because I wouldnt have something holding it still (I dont own a vice). I been at this thing for a combined 2 hours. I went and bought a torch, and tried a larger sledge. It feels like it's welded in place. If i could get just a little more space I could fit one of my other pullers in there but it won't budge at all

 

[RemyRunner]

Thanks again, will do!




I wouldn't say they are cheaper, not on the east coast at least. I wasn't specifically looking for RHD but I was definitely looking for a low mileage uzj100 with no rust under it, that was stock. Those were basically the only requirements...also I prefer white but I would've taken another color if the right one came along. I found several private party with ~100k miles on them that were less money than this one but in northeast US they are all covered in rust. I definitely paid a premium for this one, and thats with me knowing that the CVs would need to be replaced. I'm ok with it though, it's what I was looking for.

Good to hear about sourcing parts, the stuff I've been looking for has been kind of tough to find affordably, but I've been able to find it. The big next purchase for me is the tire swing, I hate how naked it looks in the back.

I will pull my glove box tomorrow. That's super weird about the cabin filter.. I guess they don't use them in Japan because of the outside air quality? There's still a lot of pollen there though



you're gonna laugh at me when I tell you this, but mine was $25k with 100k miles. I wish I could've found one this clean for lower cost but there's just not much within 5 or 6 hours of me. I do really like this one though, and I'm happy with it

My 04 VX Limited had a cabin air filters in it when I replaced them 1-2 years ago so it may be trim specific.

And yes, I can get 90% of the parts for the vehicle at a Toyota dealer. The dealers prices are so much higher than what I can order from Partsouq or Impex so I only get things from the dealership when I need them asap. Yes, the VIN causes issues when you have to go to a body shop or take it to a shop to get work done. Hell, I had two shops refuse to do alignments because they don’t have the specs for RHD. But small inconveniences.

In Canada we don’t have the tariffs like that in the USA so that price disparity may not exist as much for you now but don’t know.

Otherwise, enjoy your new ride. Low mileage and no rust on these vehicles just means it will be around a lot longer.

 

[frawstme]

My 04 VX Limited had a cabin air filters in it when I replaced them 1-2 years ago so it may be trim specific.

And yes, I can get 90% of the parts for the vehicle at a Toyota dealer. The dealers prices are so much higher than what I can order from Partsouq or Impex so I only get things from the dealership when I need them asap. Yes, the VIN causes issues when you have to go to a body shop or take it to a shop to get work done. Hell, I had two shops refuse to do alignments because they don’t have the specs for RHD. But small inconveniences.

In Canada we don’t have the tariffs like that in the USA so that price disparity may not exist as much for you now but don’t know.

Otherwise, enjoy your new ride. Low mileage and no rust on these vehicles just means it will be around a lot longer.

Sorry I forgot to check, I will tho!

Currently going through the hell of trying to get my seized up suspension apart. Luckily I work in a shop though so I won't have any issue with alignments lol