Knock sensor wire cut, what do I do HELP

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Hope you wore a mask! Nasty little critters!:poop:

Looks like rear water by-pass joint leaking from hose and/or pipe!

I was going to say may as well rebuild the Denso starter, but it's not a Denso is it?
 
^ yes I will address the seeping hose connection. Supposedly it was a brand new Nippon-Denso starter I installed, after a bad experience with a remanufactured starter from Toyota that didn't make it 2-years, in 2010. Knock on wood its been a great starter ...

The big issue we all face: How to keep the critters out of there! I don't really want to breathe napthalene ...
 
Jebus ... the little fawkers can't even wait until I'm done with the job! They set up shop during the night. And I have peanut butter'd traps 5' away :bang:

I can only hope they drank some of the coolant sitting in atop the V.
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Oh-man those are some aggressive little devils! A bull snake will make friends with the little devils.:poof:

Was it you that put screens at fresh air intake vent atop fire wall in corners. If not you may want to consider!
 
^ not me/here. When I get it back together ... which might be never at the rate I'm progressing :D ... its going to get stored in my storage unit. One hassle begets another :mad:.
 
I've had really good success using a combo of WD-40 sprayed around the engine bay, with chewing tobacco sprinkled around on top of it, and anywhere they seem to be nesting.
After trying a ton of different things, this combo has worked the best to keep the mice away.
 
I finally got everything back together, racing to beat the most aggressive mice I have ever dealt with: ANYWHERE! Every morning I'd go out to the truck to discover yet another pile of turds and urine stains all over the top of the radiator, etc. Even within 12" of a big bag of new obnoxiously smelly moth balls.

I'm glad I sent the injectors in for cleaning & testing. The difference is night and day especially at idle and increased lower rpm torque.

Hoping keeping the hood up will discourage the nasty little critters from going back in. Strange thing: Plenty of neighbors leave their vehicles in their driveways just like mine, but without incident. Guess these mice just have a taste for the flavor of Landcruiser.
 
spressomon said:
I finally got everything back together, racing to beat the most aggressive mice I have ever dealt with: ANYWHERE! Every morning I'd go out to the truck to discover yet another pile of turds and urine stains all over the top of the radiator, etc. Even within 12" of a big bag of new obnoxiously smelly moth balls.

I'm glad I sent the injectors in for cleaning & testing. The difference is night and day especially at idle and increased lower rpm torque.

Hoping keeping the hood up will discourage the nasty little critters from going back in. Strange thing: Plenty of neighbors leave their vehicles in their driveways just like mine, but without incident. Guess these mice just have a taste for the flavor of Landcruiser.
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"Bull snakes" are friend of man, they keep rodents and rattle snakes away. I catch and release in my yard when the voles (short tailed mice that don't climb) come around, it's natural and works great.:deadhorse:

Did you feel the fuel Pressure Regulator replacement that Chuck of Fuel Injector Specialists - Home - Wheat Ridge, CO and you spoke about helped out much? I'm thinking of at least testing if not just replacing fuel PR as PM.

BTW: Did Chuck give you a MUD discount?
 
Old thread revival! Camped over the holiday weekend and woke up to find my bank one sensor chewed through in two places. If you remove the plastic top cover, you can actually see the sensors and confirm this without any further disassembly. Total time to get to the sensors isn’t bad at all, it’s all the other stuff you find that OCD tells you to deal with. Decided to do a deep clean on the intakes, do the starter, and the injectors since I’m all the way in.

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Nice job on cleaning the top of engine before starting the job. So many don't and drop sand down the intake ports. ;)
 
For some reason, Japanese auto manufacturers decided to use a bio-degradable wiring harness sheath made from soybeans. Rodents love it. I've had to deal with this on Honda and Nissan engines. I've found that Honda makes a rodent repellant tape. I tried to use it and didn't like it because it doesn't stick. I found F4 silicone tape to be an effective solution.


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On under intake plenum intake KS harness, I will remove any original wiring harness sheath or wrap that contains soybean products, rewrap the wires using DEI cool tape, cover it with an automotive high temp flexible conduit, and wrap that again with F4 silicone tape. For the cars I've wrapped with conduit and F4 silicone tape, I've not had a rodent return.

A Honda can be parked next to this vehicle and they will attack parts of the Honda wiring harness and not touch the vehicle with silicone tape The last problem came with rodents chewed up the fuel injector harness on our 04 Civic.

Here's a picture of a knock sensor harness that I rewrapped over 10 years ago. It is parked next to the Honda where the rodents like to attack.


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I used the same technique for the Tacoma's knock sensor harness.

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It looks like the grey sheath covering the KS wiring is the part that uses soy. This is a KS harness from a VH45DE.


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Here's a frustrated Honda owner complaining about soy wiring.

 
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Salty Sailor said:
My 1998 LX470 check engine light is on and OBD II scan says knock sensor issue. Can an endo scope be used to check wiring without removing the intake manifold? Thanks!
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Yes!.

Also in non VVT engine, you can just use a flashlight.

Every time I've seen the code. I find a rodent nest under the intake manifold.
 
OilHammer said:
Old thread revival! Camped over the holiday weekend and woke up to find my bank one sensor chewed through in two places. If you remove the plastic top cover, you can actually see the sensors and confirm this without any further disassembly. Total time to get to the sensors isn’t bad at all, it’s all the other stuff you find that OCD tells you to deal with. Decided to do a deep clean on the intakes, do the starter, and the injectors since I’m all the way in.

View attachment 2434118
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What is involved with "deep clean on the intakes, do the starter, and the injectors since"? New starter or rebuild. If rebuild just brushes? What to do on injectors? Thanks very much.
 
I have 1998 LX470 with 315,000kms. I need to pull the intake to fix my knock sensor issue. What else should I do while the manifold is off? Starter? Whole starter or just brushes? Other stuff? Thanks very much to the community.
 
For sure service the starter. Toyota Denso remain is top shelve. Denso reman a close second. Difference according to Denso Tech support. Toyota requires certain parts replaced. Denso, it's up to rebuilder. 98 starter, is very rebuildable, which is also good option. But the parts in remains (Toy Denso or Denso) other than contact and plunger can be extensive, so hard to compete with even DIY. At 315Km 23yr, it's very likely been done. You may find aftermarket in yours now, which then for sure get a reman.
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Best starter for the money today?

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Fuel inject service is done by third party. Unless you've a sonic cleaner, test equipment and know how!.
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Replace all gaskets, O-rings and seal you disturb.

It's a good time to replace all 4 water bypass joints front & rear gaskets.

Tips:
Clean top of engine concentrating on area where intake manifold and heads connect together. Be very careful not to get any dust, sand, crud, etc. into intake ports of heads. Check each port with flashlight and vacuum each speck of dust out, before assemble.

With any remanufactured starter. It is best to reseat contacts by the book (FSM), before installing starter.
 
Very excellent write up.

I am going to assess if these sensors have been chewed up by the pack rats that were lounging in the v8 hammock. If everything appears to be well, can simply vacuuming as much of their nest out be enough to just move forward? I would prefer not to remove the manifold if all electrical components are intact.

Ciao.
 
Sure, vacuum away.

But if you a knock sensor code. You'll more than likely pull the intake soon anyway.

I'm getting ready to pull an intake manifold now, from a VVT. This same one, I pulled about 2K miles ago. So it's clean. I'll just need hit with compressed air, as opposed to pressure washing first. I'm after an A.I. switch sensor only found in the VVT. So I've in my parts ben, both hoses for A.I. switch, 2 intake manifold gaskets (VVT has 2) and a throttle body gasket.

Any more, I pull bolts/nuts from throttle body, and let it hang there. It does require replacing it's gasket. But helps in 2 ways. 1) no need to disconnect coolant lines. 2) Intake manifold is lighter.

Tip:
Bend the engine hoist hooks outward. They tend to be bent inward, and cause excessive binding while pull manifold.
Non VVT 98-05 intake manifold gasket are directional. White paint up and out.
Z 01 LX470 day Starter, wire splice & intake installed 3-22-16 028.JPG
 
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