Killing rust on body panels

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May 20, 2007
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So I just bought a ‘77 FJ55 and I want to do what I can to stop further rust propagation until I have the time to do a full blown frame off. I'm leaning toward using Eastwood or Black Star or similar rust converter followed by some Cruiser Corps, rattle-can Freeborn Red and Cygnus White. Frame is in good shape so we’re only talking a few areas on the body.

I have read about 20 threads that mention rust converters but there was only a little experience with the Eastwood and almost nothing on the Black Star. Here is a pic so you can see what I’m working with.

Just looking for first hand experience with those products or similar in a similar application. Thanks

36060D1B-E68E-4612-957D-488AF1C7F36F.jpeg
 

Splangy

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They’re pretty much all the same. Phosphoric acid and a few additives. It doesn’t really matter which one you use. All they do is create a conversion coating that paint can stick to better than rust.
 
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After more research there are some differences and I think a water based converter is probably better as they will dry on non-rust areas so there are less issues with overlapping onto bare metal and/or existing paint. Looking at ordering a gallon of Corroseal. Again, not looking for perfection at this point. Probably just hit the spots with a wire brush or wheel, rust converter, and then some rattle can red or white.

Pig will be stored indoors. Hopefully that will help slow things down as well.
 

RUSH55

 
 
 
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Cottonwood, Az.
Oil stops iron oxidation. Hose it down with lubricating penetrants like PR Blaster, Zep, Fluid Film, or whatever, periodically until you’re ready to do the real work.
 
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Grande Prairie, Alberta
Yes, soak everything that isn't painted, in oil, otherwise it'll corrode. You'll have to remove all that oil later, and sandblast/media blast out your original corrosion. Bolt off frame off at a later date, no shortcuts.

There's layup procedures from Caterpillar that you can find online for adding VCI oil to internal axles, engine, anything well sealed. This stinky VCI oil gas will prevent corrosion if sealed in for up to a few years.
 
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Thanks everyone. I will certainly do what I can to keep it from getting worse.

I continue to do research on how to ultimately address corrosion once I get around to the frame off. I've become very intrigued with the idea of chemical or otherwise stripping and applying an e-coating like new cars. Would be great to know that the frame and the body panels were coated inside and out prior to final painting.

Here's an example: Automotive Chemical Stripping and E-Coating - Select Motors
 
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Joined
Dec 27, 2017
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Grande Prairie, Alberta
Steel vehicle bodies from Volvo have been galvanized for years. I wouldn't hot-dip them at a metal shop though, like a fence post. It would warp. There is likely an automotive-grade process for that job.

There are a few shops in the US that will acid-dip a sand blasted, removed car body. I'm not sure how they neutralize that afterward though.

Go with the oil, you'll need lots of it. I keep uncontaminated used engine oil around for that purpose on small jobs. In central Canada there were several shops you could take your running vehicle to for an underbody oil spray.
 
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