Johnvee's 40 Thread (1 Viewer)

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See post #16 for my LED reasonings. Here's the list:

This list should work for 1975+ 40's. I compiled it using Trollhole's list as a starting reference. Please let me know if you find any errors.
www.superbrightleds.com

headlight switch
1x- BA7S-W Cool White
parking
2x- 67-W15 Cool White
rear side marker
2x- 67-R15 Red
front & rear turn signal
4x- 1156-A45-T Amber
tail/brake 2-way
2x- 1157-R18-T Red
reverse
2x- 67-CW2W Cool White
dashboard & heater control
2x- 3022-WWHP4 Warm White (some people buy green)EDIT: :bang:I don't think these are correct. I haven't installed them yet but they appear to be the wrong style. Will update when I can.
front side marker
2x- 67-A2W Amber
interior dome
1x- 3710-WWHP6 Warm White
turn signal indicator
2x- WLED-G-120 Green (I like these but -G-90 will be brighter)
hi beam indicator
1x- WLED-B6 Blue
flasher
1x- CF12ANL-01 (you'll need to make 2 simple adapter wires)

I left off the Gauge Cluster bulbs because I don't need them. Many people say that brighter bulbs won't help in the cluster unless you break off the tabs that surround the bulbs. I also hear that just removing the tabs and keeping the original bulbs works well. Some folks have used the hi-powered incandescents from CCOT or others and reported fogging and condensation problems because the bulbs get so hot. I'm swapping in a gauge kit that uses a mini LED rope light to replace all the cluster bulbs.
 
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I had an incident yesterday that almost required a change of pants, and the new tires (see post #1) are the reason I remained unsoiled.

I'll keep it short, but what happened was I had to turn SHARP right into a business on a 4-lane road to avoid an accident. There was a school bus running even with me trying to get in my right lane from the left. I couldn't speed up because of the car that had just turned into my lane from the business (right-turn-only out of it). My only option was to turn into the lot, with too much speed, that he was leaving but some idiot was speeding out of the lot in the center of the lot exit as I was turning into it. This placed her square in my sights and I figured I was going to sideswipe the crap out of her red Expedition at a rather damage-inducing angle. The narrow width of the KM2's (33x10.5) allowed me to turn sharply and quickly enough to just miss her by what had to have been a hair. I could never have moved the wide MTZ's (33x12.5) enough to miss her.

The best part was being able to hear her scream even with her windows up. Of course, she was screaming every name in the book at me since it was most obviously my fault that she doesn't obey the rules of common sense.

It was really just a circus of errors on the bus driver and the Expedition. Neither was paying enough attention to those around them. The car that turned out in front of me probably shouldn't have done that, either, but I would've been able to slow enough in a normal situation to let him go.

And I suspect that if the Expedition hadn't paused to yell at me that she would have turned right out into that school bus that was now in the right lane as it passed.

--john
 
I had one of those on my Spyder in Sylva about 18 months ago ... makes you glad you have a spare pair of shorts in the glovebox don't it :D

Glad you were OK
 
Glad things turned out okay!

Sent from my EVO using IH8MUD
 
So I gave the keys to an unnamed person and told them to back the 40 out of the way. A few minutes later there was still no engine noise. Hmmm. Dead in its tracks. No click, no grunt, no nothing. Lights all work. Battery checks out at 12.6v. I had time today to pull and test the fuses and clean the fuse box contacts. No luck. I arc'd across the solenoid and got it to try to turn over, then I had to leave. Oh, and my multimeter bit the dust in the process - completely unrelated.

I'm quite new to the troubleshooting of an engine so this will take me awhile unless one of you holds the magic key.

Probably 2 or 3 out of 5 times that this person drives the 40 there are consequences and repercussions.

--john
 
So I gave the keys to an unnamed person and told them to back the 40 out of the way. A few minutes later there was still no engine noise. Hmmm. Dead in its tracks. No click, no grunt, no nothing. Lights all work. Battery checks out at 12.6v. I had time today to pull and test the fuses and clean the fuse box contacts. No luck. I arc'd across the solenoid and got it to try to turn over, then I had to leave. Oh, and my multimeter bit the dust in the process - completely unrelated.

I'm quite new to the troubleshooting of an engine so this will take me awhile unless one of you holds the magic key.

Probably 2 or 3 out of 5 times that this person drives the 40 there are consequences and repercussions.

--john

Is the battery hooked up :flipoff2:


Do the 40 have any fusable links anywhere near the battery or starter??? I know nothing about 40's but i've seen other old vehicles with that problem.
 
Yes, battery is hooked up. I unhooked it, cleaned it and rehooked it. I get power to all accessories and the starter solenoid. Perhaps the ignition switch is the next thing to check (The harness for it was replaced via Autozone in 2011). They key often needs a jiggle to turn it. I'll look into the fusible links today. And, Al, don't forget that it's not a 2F - it's old school V8.

BONUS: It was much easier to push and steer with the 33x10.50's!

--john
 
Okay, braintrust. Here's where I am - I have a remote starter solenoid and a GM 350. My Optima Red Top is fully charged (12.6v). I get full voltage to the battery side of the solenoid. I get 12.15v at the ignition/starter wire connection when the key is turned to start (probably due to voltage drop because I was alone and had to extend the wire to the cab). All electrics work. All fuses replaced and terminals cleaned for good measure. The only fusible links are at the alternator and main power distribution bar (not stock - it feeds the fuse box), and they both work. All grounds are now cleaned and dielectric'd.

I get all electric accessories and signals working in the ACC position.

I jumped the solenoid B+ side to the starter side and everything turns as normal.

The ignition switch (key switch) is sometimes hard to turn and the only key I got with the truck is pretty smooth.

Bad ignition harness? Bad key switch? Both? The ignition harness is new as of 2011 and was either Autozone or CCOT.

Whaddya got for me?

--john
 
Take the starter out and have it checked at autozone..then you could at least narrow the field.

Sent from my EVO using IH8MUD
 
Take the starter out and have it checked at autozone..then you could at least narrow the field.

Sent from my EVO using IH8MUD

I would have done that before I garnered all my MUD knowledge. The fact that I can bump start it by jumping the solenoid terminals rules out the starter. If the starter was bad then I'd hear the solenoid turning when trying to crank.

And one of the starter bolts is in a place where a ratcheting wrench can only move 2 clicks at a time. What a pain in the ass that was :mad:. But that was last years project so I'm in a better place now.

BTW - I hit $100 in Autozone rewards money this week! Spend = or > $20 for 1 point. Get 5 points for $20 cash reward. The game is to see how close to $20 you can spend each visit. Sucks to hafta buy a $$$ item. This is the benefit to changing your own oil and wipers in 5 vehicles.

--john
 
What does your starter solenoid look like? I may have one here at the house for you that I didn't end up using for my 4BT swap.

Check to see if the solenoid is getting +12v from the body harness when the key is in the 'START' position. If so, then it's likely the solenoid.

Starter circuits are super simple. Think of it as a regular relay. It needs +12v on the switch side to close the power circuit and once the circuit is closed, power flows to the starter motor.
 
Weirdness.

I put everything back together before I left the shop on Saturday. No start. I get here just now, Monday, and it fires right up. Same key, same position, same everything as when I left it on Saturday. It was dead for 7 days. Must be the rain. Or maybe that's why Rafael asked me where I was yesterday, maybe he came by and fixed it because he has to be working on something and ran out of his own projects? It's raining too hard to open the hood and check for the touch of another man.

I still think I'll pass on taking it to Columbia tonight.

--john
 
That could happen with bad battery terminals but you said you checked so .... hmm
 
What do you get at the solenoid activation terminal when the switch is at the start position (best to check with the terminal disconnected from the solenoid, but away from any other ground)? A bad switch can lead to less than adequate voltage at the solenoid terminal.
 
What do you get at the solenoid activation terminal when the switch is at the start position (best to check with the terminal disconnected from the solenoid, but away from any other ground)? A bad switch can lead to less than adequate voltage at the solenoid terminal.

To answer all: I've unhooked both ends of both battery cables, cleaned, coated in dielectric many times while doing this. Cleaned terminals with a brush, also. Battery always showed 12.6v. Unhooked ignition start wire from solenoid and got 12.15v (see earlier post about is) when the key was turned. All connections have been cleaned and coated. Even removed the solenoid and did it too. Yes, grounds also.

I'm gonna go with bad solenoid. If adequate power to open it is getting there from the ignition, then it's gotta be a bum solenoid. I'll pick one up soon.

Johnny, I'll send you a pic. I should be in apex Wednesday, even if only for a minute, if they match up and you can send one with somebody. No worries if not.

--john
 
Spent a few minutes with it today. Installed a new solenoid. A fancy blue one. Still didn't start. I had a helper at the shop today so it was easier to test things that required the key being turned. Ignition wire to starter was just dandy. Then I realized I'm missing a few apron/bib/fender bolts. Then I got to checking ground across those junctions. Hmmm. A few nuts and bolts later (and some other grounding love) and it seems to be running just fine. I forgot rule #1: It's probably a ground problem. And rule #2: Ground is carried in places other than wired connections. Stupid, stupid, stupid me.

I also figured I'd solve a few other problems while I had the soldering iron out. Installed an electric fan cut-off switch that I've been wanting. Rewired one new-to-me front turn signal (thanks S4Cruiser) and installed it, too. The other will have to wait until more dry, warm weather.

Next up will probably be axle breather extensions and driving lights. Maybe a fancy switch plate to cover the PO's radio hack into the dash. Gotta keep things cheap for a while.

--john
 
Tire Update

I still don't prefer the skinny look of the new KM2's over my old wide MTZ's, but I've decided to keep them. They finally got their dirt/rock christening this week and passed with flying colors. Soooooo much easier to manage on the rocks and tight spaces without power steering. :clap: That was probably the largest upside by far.

Much better gas mileage, too.

There's still some minor rubbing in the back at full compression but that's expected without a lift.



--john

IMG_0870.jpg
 
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Yeah. Pics or you don't even have them... Haha
 

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