Johnvee's 40 Thread (1 Viewer)

[lt1fire]

I still don't prefer the skinny look of the new KM2's over my old wide MTZ's, but I've decided to keep them. They finally got their dirt/rock christening this week and passed with flying colors. Soooooo much easier to manage on the rocks and tight spaces without power steering. That was probably the largest upside by far.

Much better gas mileage, too.

There's still some minor rubbing in the back at full compression but that's expected without a lift.

I guess this post needs a picture...I'll hafta go take one and edit later.

--john

The KM2's are great tires. I'm with you on the look though, I love me a 40 with big fat tires, or any rig for that matter. The majority of this group think the other way though.

To me a big burly 4x4 with skinny tires reminds me of this picture

 

[kulangot]

Weirdness.

I put everything back together before I left the shop on Saturday. No start. I get here just now, Monday, and it fires right up. Same key, same position, same everything as when I left it on Saturday. It was dead for 7 days. Must be the rain. Or maybe that's why Rafael asked me where I was yesterday, maybe he came by and fixed it because he has to be working on something and ran out of his own projects? It's raining too hard to open the hood and check for the touch of another man.


--john

I had a truck once that would not start, the fender had rusted and the ground to frame would not work. Ran a jumper (wire with alligator clips) from ground to the ignitor and it fired right up. Fixed it by removing a bolt to the frame, ran a tap through to clean out the rust, wire wheeled the bolt, reinstalled and w/a on a star fangled washer.

Years later my friend Oogs has his front clip off of his 40 and it would not start. Ran a jumper from ground to the ignitor and it fired right up.

Any electronics mounted to the body needs a ground and the in factory configuration the fender has gets grounded from the frame.

One good start fangled washer would supply an ample grounding.


-Stumbaugh

 

[JohnVee]

Went to URE this week with a few other miscreants. Had a great day of wheeling. Made my front bumper PS look like the DS.

 

[JohnVee]

Flushed the brakes today and changed the oil. Looks like new soft lines are in my near future. No pics. Thanks to Eric for the help.

Putting together a list for winter time repairs:
-Front axle rebuild
-Clutch rebuild
-DS rear leak into brake drum (grease color/oil texture)
-Transfer case boot replacement
-Front bumper replace or mod
-Overhead shelf install

--john

 

[JohnVee]

I've had gas fumes in the cab that have been getting worse as time goes by. I figured there are three things that can do that: 1-tank leak; 2-bad soft lines; 3-carb leak. So I did the following...

1 & 2 - Removed tank. No visible leaks. Started sanding tank to prep for paint and found lots of surface rust and pock marks. Interior of tank looked awesome. Purchased NIB CCOT replica tank with new Gates hoses because it was a great deal. (PO had used coolant hose in some places). Snugged up drain plug. Cleaned, leak tested then installed new tank and all hoses. Installed new vented gas cap.

Here's where it gets good. I let it run for 15+ minutes over a clean, dry section of concrete. No leaks. Drive home 7 miles. Park. Turn around to see gas leaking from the drain plug onto the PS muffler. Probably not good. Grab the hose and cool off the muffler. Place bucket under leak. 24hrs later it's still leaking (only had 5g to start and parked pointing uphill). Loosened gas cap and the damn thing flew off with way more pressure than normal. Leak stopped.

I drained the tank via the fuel line and removed the drain plug. Let dry overnight and applied a good amount of Seal All to the copper gasket and lower threads. Let set up for 36 hours. Drilled 1/16" hole through gas cap.

I drove it about 25 miles today. No more gas smell when it's just sitting. No leaks, but now it's jumping around at idle between 300-600prm. Occasionally shuts off at idle when going into gear. Not sure if this is from the "drill vented cap" or because....

3 - Carb is leaking fuel on the DS. Getting fuel smell in the cab when in motion. Not a very big leak. Can't even see it when I open the hood but fuel slowly collects in a trough above the valve cover. Can't find the damn Holley # on the carb, just patent #'s. I need a big magnifying glass.

So... I'm going to make sure all the throttle linkages are well lubed and retighten the carb mounting bolts. I definitely cut down on the fuel smell with the new lines/tank. Now to chase the rest.

--john

 

[lt1fire]

That things a death trap.... just give it to me


when you want to head to the pull a part this week to look around

 

[jfz80]

John. The Holley number should be on the front of carb, the round section of housing that houses venturis and valve. Visible when you remove air filter and any spacers or adapter. I had to google its location too. I was searching for what they call the list # and it identified the model carb I had and rebuild kit I needed.

 

[JohnVee]

Ahhh, everybody told me it should be right on the front. Nobody said under the filter. I just thought my eyes were bad. I'll check again tomorrow or the next dry day we have. I'd really like to have this sorted out so it can be at the xmas party.

--john

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Excesssive pressure / vacuum in the tank makes me think that the EVAP system (if 40s have one) or the gas tank vent are malfunctioning.

 

[Phares]

You should put a 2F back in it and ditch that rotten SBC.

 

[Roxx]

You should put a 2F back in it and ditch that rotten SBC.

X2!...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You should put a 2F back in it and ditch that rotten SBC.

Disagree.

 

[Phares]

Johnny just wants you to put a Diesel in it...which would be cool too. Sorry about the troubles though.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Johnny just wants you to put a Diesel in it...which would be cool too. Sorry about the troubles though.

Troubles can be had with any motor. If it wasn't this carb thing with the 350, it'd be warped manifolds like what Joanna is dealing with now. Every motor has got its weak points.

 

[Snowdogyyz]

I love my SBC 400! To each their own. John- I have an old quadrajet carb on the shelf if you want it. Needs to be rebuilt, but you can have it if you want it. Just need someone to pick it up for you. I'm in Hillsborough. I have a rebuilt quad on mine and if runs great.

 

[JohnVee]

Excesssive pressure / vacuum in the tank makes me think that the EVAP system (if 40s have one) or the gas tank vent are malfunctioning.

Hmmm...about all that.... Yeah, there's non of that. One of the common "remedies" done over the years to these trucks, if my research is correct. I always had a bit of pressure in the tank with the old cap but nothing like the other day. Now the old cap has mysteriously vanished so I can't go back to it. Not even sure if it was vented or not.

I'm in the process of adding back the fuel separator and charcoal can when I can put my hands on them. Ya know, 'cause I'm all about being factory stock. I've read some posts of people just running one of the three separator lines through the floor to the rear of the truck for a vent line. Not really sure that's a usable fix due to the 3-chambered tank. It seems to me that all three would have to do that. I always figured I'd leave a working system alone so I did.

FYI - my lines running from the tank are the 'fuel outlet to pump' and the 'vent to filler neck'. All other lines (3x fuel separator & 1x return from carb) are either capped or run to each other. This is how it was when I bought the truck.

So, I suppose I need to finally learn about carbs after all these years so I can fix my leak and determine the source of the RPM fluctuating.

--john

 

[JohnVee]

You should put a 2F back in it and ditch that rotten SBC.

If only I had a garage! I'd love to get an original engine and learn how to rebuild it, then just keep it in reserve. Something in the way I'm wired makes me want to have all the parts that I should have even if they're no longer needed. Not just related to automobiles. My wife is VERY concerned that I'm gonna turn into a hoarder.

--john

 

[JohnVee]

I love my SBC 400! To each their own. John- I have an old quadrajet carb on the shelf if you want it. Needs to be rebuilt, but you can have it if you want it. Just need someone to pick it up for you. I'm in Hillsborough. I have a rebuilt quad on mine and if runs great.

Ah, the great Holley vs Q-Jet debate. I got lectured by all my gearhead friends on both sides of this when they found out I had a 350. It got pretty heated at times. I never paid much attention because the thing always ran fine.

I might take you up on it. I'd like to learn to rebuild one but I'm hesitant to start with the one that currently powers my vehicle (so I'm not out a carb if it explodes in my hands).

--john

 

[Snowdogyyz]

Ah, the great Holley vs Q-Jet debate. I got lectured by all my gearhead friends on both sides of this when they found out I had a 350. It got pretty heated at times. I never paid much attention because the thing always ran fine. I might take you up on it. I'd like to learn to rebuild one but I'm hesitant to start with the one that currently powers my vehicle (so I'm not out a carb if it explodes in my hands). --john

Yeah, I've heard the same debate over and over. They both have their merits I guess. If you decide you want it, just let me know. Maybe someone could pick it up for you before the party.

 

[lt1fire]

Excesssive pressure / vacuum in the tank makes me think that the EVAP system (if 40s have one) or the gas tank vent are malfunctioning.

Ding Ding Ding..... I was waiting to see who the first person to say it was.

When I was helping him pull the old tank I asked him where the stuff was. I'll be looking for usable components for him at the junk yard (if I ever make it there)



Go with the Quadrajet