How to get gasket material off intake/exhaust ports (1 Viewer)

[Beehanger]

Hi all,
Removed my Remflex gasket to try to reseal it (was leaking). But am trying to figure out how I can get the old stuff off without spilling into the ports.

Ideas? I have some fine steel wool. And was just gunna jam paper towels on there then pull em out after..


Dan

 

[relaxedcruiser]

I'm always using new wide stanley knive blades without a holder. They work perfect on machined faces as they are dead straight and don't scratch the surface where the gasket is baked on.
You need to get the right angle and force, take a new blade if it has been damaged during operation.
It makes absolute sense to put rags or the like into the holes first.
The steel wool will only take material of the egdes and you'll have a hard time getting it all off nice and even.

 

[roadstr6]

I stuff paper towels in the ports and use a 3M Roloc Bristle disc to remove the old gasket material. Pull the towels out and shop-vac the ports when you're done.

 

[BurntToast]

I use a gasket scraper carefully. GM released this note on using abrasive discs FYI

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10082814-5448.pdf

 

[Stickgunner]

Another vote for paper towels, a vacuum cleaner, and utility knife blades. It’s what we always used. Another option would be bronze scraper blades, they are more commonly used on glass windows to scrape decals and things because they won’t scratch or gouge the surface. Then again, a utility knife blade is crazy sharp and never marked up the steel while shaving off old gaskets either.

 

[mdw83fj60]

Carbide Scraper, worked on mine. Was awesome at getting those last little pieces that seemed impossible.
Titan 17016 2-Piece Carbide Scraper Set https://a.co/d/dbIhbBo

 

[Beehanger]

Thanks for the responses. Did you guys use the razer knife blade free hand or attached to a knife handle/boxcutter?

 

[relaxedcruiser]

I'm using them freehand, but they have to be at least the mid sized ones. I find a handle often in the way, also you are more likely to apply lots of force and edge the knive. There might be good handles around though. The advantage of the utility knive blade is its length. When the going gets really tough you can scrape with one end while using the other end as a pivot point. A bonus is that they are cheap and you can have a new one all the time if you need to.
If the get damaged and are not longer good for this 'precise' job you can still use them in the traditional holder to cut down cardboard boxes or the like.

 

[mattressking]

Wire wheel the surface clean, vacuum mess, brake clean, blow out and chase threads of all threaded holes.

Blades are fine, but with the available space, it is much quicker and gives a nicer surface.

 

[Sirlosealot]

I use a gasket scraper carefully. GM released this note on using abrasive discs FYI

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10082814-5448.pdf

Thanks for sharing this. I have thought this for years and use the razor blade method myself.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

I hammer a length of copper pipe flat and put a straight edge on it with a stone for aluminium surfaces, but it works well on cast iron too with no chance of rounding off edges or digging in. That gasket looks pretty new (not like 1980s paper gaskets which have somehow turned into Kevlar). I would not use any power tool or abrasive. There should be minimal entry of debris into the ports. If it's really tough then paint on some methylene chloride (paint stripper) which will soften it, but make sure all painted and plastic surfaces are well covered as the debris will still lift off paint!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Hi all,
Removed my Remflex gasket to try to reseal it (was leaking). But am trying to figure out how I can get the old stuff off without spilling into the ports.

Ideas? I have some fine steel wool. And was just gunna jam paper towels on there then pull em out after..


Dan

View attachment 3499156

First things first Dan

Ball up some Brawny paper towels , like death grip tight ballz and stuff 1 in each port just shy of the surface …

Next the .COM of the liquid sealer should list a dry clean and removal method ?

If not ?

Use scotch bright by hand the green color stuff is in the bleach and soap soap isle at Giant and Safe way

Have that one on hand and a shop VAC in another …

This way no chance of internal engine contamination from removal …

Rem-flex is one time crush use and NO sealer …..fyi


All REM-Flex is made up of is #1 yellow school pencil lead …

It’s soft but works well

 

[Beehanger]

First things first Dan

Ball up some Brawny paper towels , like death grip tight ballz and stuff 1 in each port just shy of the surface …

Next the .COM of the liquid sealer should list a dry clean and removal method ?

If not ?

Use scotch bright by hand the green color stuff is in the bleach and soap soap isle at Giant and Safe way

Have that one on hand and a shop VAC in another …

This way no chance of internal engine contamination from removal …

Rem-flex is one time crush use and NO sealer …..fyi


All REM-Flex is made up of is #1 yellow school pencil lead …

It’s soft but works well

Not sure I understand the formula here. Bleach and what else? And spray bottle applies it?

 

[BlackCat]

Not sure I understand the formula here. Bleach and what else? And spray bottle applies it?

hes saying the green scotchbrite pads are located in the soap and bleach isle at whatever store hes referring to. I also think thats the shortest post I've ever seen Matt post.

also, on my truck I only have studs in the 2 center spots. The 2 outer spots where you have studs are bolts on mine (near your power steering pump and then near the firewall side) I wonder which is correct, studs or bolts.

 

[Beehanger]

hes saying the green scotchbrite pads are located in the soap and bleach isle at whatever store hes referring to. I also think thats the shortest post I've ever seen Matt post.

also, on my truck I only have studs in the 2 center spots. The 2 outer spots where you have studs are bolts on mine (near your power steering pump and then near the firewall side) I wonder which is correct, studs or bolts.

All I know is I had bolts for the edges from a kit I bought. Then Matt told me it’s necessary to have studs with a special coating he had, so I got those. Need to install. Not sure but rolling with Matt’s recommendation

 

[Beehanger]

First things first Dan

Ball up some Brawny paper towels , like death grip tight ballz and stuff 1 in each port just shy of the surface …

Next the .COM of the liquid sealer should list a dry clean and removal method ?

If not ?

Use scotch bright by hand the green color stuff is in the bleach and soap soap isle at Giant and Safe way

Have that one on hand and a shop VAC in another …

This way no chance of internal engine contamination from removal …

Rem-flex is one time crush use and NO sealer …..fyi


All REM-Flex is made up of is #1 yellow school pencil lead …

It’s soft but works well

Hey Matt,

What respirator or precautions do you take when removing the remflex cause of the lead content?

Dan

 

[BlackCat]

Hey Matt,

What respirator or precautions do you take when removing the remflex cause of the lead content?

Dan

They're graphite, I don't think theres any lead in them.

 

[Beehanger]

They're graphite, I don't think theres any lead in them.

Matt gave me cause for concern for no reason….dammit Matt

 

[Beehanger]

Matt gave me cause for concern for no reason….dammit Matt

Just finished up getting most of the material off and was thinking how I was going to get the lead dust out lol

 

[BlackCat]

Just finished up getting most of the material off and was thinking how I was going to get the lead dust out lol

well truth be told I'm not sure you want to really breathe a ton of graphite dust either.