Build HJ61 Cruiser build
- Thread starter TLC Norway
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- Thread starter
- #142
Yeah, last box was delayed a bit in the customs, but it all got here in time
Are you talking about the locking hubs?
Had them both apart, and when i put everything back in (the first time), i only put the drive gear in the hub without the cover, to make sure i could see the action. All good in the hub.
And i have good drive on both sides with the open diff.
Any ideas about the lack of brakes? i have a few old masters laying aroud, but i guess the seals are gone in those too...
- Thread starter
- #143
Has anyone seen a good split drawing of the locker equipped diff? can find it in my manuals. Maybe @beno has some intel?
The leftovers from the metal that came out of the housing are all the same thikness, about 1mm. I'm guessing thust washer or something.
Either way, i'm stuck without the brakes, so i can read up on the diff issue.
The leftovers from the metal that came out of the housing are all the same thikness, about 1mm. I'm guessing thust washer or something.
Either way, i'm stuck without the brakes, so i can read up on the diff issue.
Man all that work in a storm is crazy. I love working on my truck in the winter. But i use a heated garage.
I would never try and get a job done before a storm rolls in.
The thing about car repairs, estimate the time it will take, then double it.
You're a trooper
I would never try and get a job done before a storm rolls in.
The thing about car repairs, estimate the time it will take, then double it.
You're a trooper
The brakes will feel lose in the beginning. will get better after some use, but it dose brake.
At least that how my brakes acted after I did the 4Runner caliper swap
At least that how my brakes acted after I did the 4Runner caliper swap
You upgraded to 4runner calipers. What do you mean by "lack of brakes"? Do you have to push the pedal further to get the brakes to be effective?
Have any pics of the metal that came out of the diff? Here's the exploded diagram:
Have any pics of the metal that came out of the diff? Here's the exploded diagram:
- Thread starter
- #147
Thanks, mate! I know about the time double factor. it is x10 when outside in blizzard.
But after the garage and shop burnt to the ground, outside work is what it is.
This is porbably knuckle rebuild no. twenty, so i knew what i was getting into, it just bothers me about the brakes and the 'downgrade' to open diff.
That does not make sense either.
I can feel that there is no pressure, just a tad a full pedal.
Same feeling like if the bleeder was open.
Not uncommon that the seals in the old master gets a tear when bleeding, even when beein careful.
- Thread starter
- #148
Do you have a link to that? my toyodiy does not work.
Well, the 'lack of brakes' can be described as 'no brakes'...
When pushing in, i only get a slight resistance at the bottom.
Slight braking happens.
If i push rapidly, i get more resistance, but only the bottom 1/3, and no real brake effect.
The pedal also runs slightly in when holding pressure. (witch leads me to belive the master is torn, pushing fluid trough)
There are no brakefulid leaks, i even checked the rear wheel cylinders.
I bled it all several times, there is no air in the system, nor in the LSPV.
- Thread starter
- #149
I packed it away for further diagnosis, but i'll put on some goggles and go out for a picture later.
Wrenching outside has its moments. I remember a time at a beach house on a perfect sunny day with the waves crashing in the back ground and I was doing a simple performance mod. Loved it. Then there are moments out in pissing down rain in the mud trying to fix whatever. One thing I hate doing inside is cutting metal with a grinder and I always prefer to do that outside.
to you for not letting the weather stop you.
My brakes was the same as you describe, after a little driving and braking on a closed area it kind of settled and got back to somewhat normal feeling and braked well. I can't explain why, it just did ...
If you are 100% positive that there is no air in the system, then think about what else you've changed. You increased the caliper piston surface area, which means that the master cylinder will need to move farther to move those larger pistons the same distance, to exert force on the rotor.
Have you thought about upgrading the master cylinder to something larger?
- Thread starter
- #154
Wrenching outside has its moments. I remember a time at a beach house on a perfect sunny day with the waves crashing in the back ground and I was doing a simple performance mod. Loved it. Then there are moments out in pissing down rain in the mud trying to fix whatever. One thing I hate doing inside is cutting metal with a grinder and I always prefer to do that outside.
Yeah, if the weather is good, outside wrenching is niiiice!
I guess everything was normal with your brake swap (4runner calipers?) and then the pads just had to break in to grip.
Yeah, as mentioned before, i bled the LSPV. Everything is bled numerous times.
Doesn't feel like air anymore, when there's a little bit of air in the system, the pedal tends to feel spongy/springy, but it isnt.
I had plans for a bigger master, but i havent decided on witch one.
About the size of the master vs size of caliper piston size, shoudnt the rear brakes work as normal then, since the volume at that curquit is separate from the master and all the way back?
What other masters should i be able to use from the junkyard?
That's the only partsource i could get within a few days.
what year 80 series? Runner? Newer hilux? a hundy?
I'll also have to stay away from rigs that have sat for a while, and o-rings dries fast.
I wont bother to get a 60 series replacement, was planning to upgrade anyway.
maybe i'll have to rebuild the one old caliper that was leaking, and put them back in.
(if the issue is volume, not broken master)
I had plans for a bigger master, but i havent decided on witch one.
About the size of the master vs size of caliper piston size, shoudnt the rear brakes work as normal then, since the volume at that curquit is separate from the master and all the way back?
What other masters should i be able to use from the junkyard?
That's the only partsource i could get within a few days.
what year 80 series? Runner? Newer hilux? a hundy?
I'll also have to stay away from rigs that have sat for a while, and o-rings dries fast.
I wont bother to get a 60 series replacement, was planning to upgrade anyway.
maybe i'll have to rebuild the one old caliper that was leaking, and put them back in.
(if the issue is volume, not broken master)
Yes, the rears should work the same, but the pedal feel will reflect the entire system, not front or back individually.
The vast majority of your braking power comes from the front. If there's not enough hydraulic pressure/volume to make those work properly, then that may be the cause of your issue.
Examples:
(not sure if these are the model names in your region, but they are here)
Non-ABS (maybe ABS, not positive on that) equipped 80 series
t100
SR5 4Runner
- Thread starter
- #156
yeah... I'll call around for a 4Runner master, shoud be some in a couple hours distance.
But after reading others experiences around mud, they actually have good stopping power with the 60 master.
Lots of good tech from @ntsqd in this thread:
Brake problems, 4runner calipers and standard master problems?
But after reading others experiences around mud, they actually have good stopping power with the 60 master.
Lots of good tech from @ntsqd in this thread:
Brake problems, 4runner calipers and standard master problems?
In my experience, "stopping power" and "pedal feel" are highly subjective. For example, I think I have awesome stopping power and great pedal feel in Moonshine, with one ton brakes all around, hydroboost and a MC off of a corvette. Others who have driven my truck agree, while others think that my pedal is mushy, or engages too close to the floor.
Definitely read up on that thread. @ntsqd taught us a bunch in there.
Definitely read up on that thread. @ntsqd taught us a bunch in there.
- Thread starter
- #158
Yes, it is very subjective. Now im comparing it to the brakes I had before the leaks, with oem brakes in good condition.
On 35's it was very similar to my previous 60, when the drums are in top shape.
I just wanted a bit more beef in the front brakes, in came the 4rnr calipers.
There's soo many threads on this, that i dont wanna start another.
On 35's it was very similar to my previous 60, when the drums are in top shape.
I just wanted a bit more beef in the front brakes, in came the 4rnr calipers.
There's soo many threads on this, that i dont wanna start another.
- Thread starter
- #159
Hey, @orangefj4 what exact calipers did you ship me? (for reference) i cant check any stamps now...
i only see from the pictures is says HOKK, H6 or 9H. recognize that?
Would it matter if it's the S13WB calipers with 4 X 45mm pistons or the 4 X 43mm, S12 casting?
The S13 caliper is probably the one for the 25mm disc, and S12 for the 20mm disc. (i have 20mm discs.)
Is it bad to run the s13 on a 20mm disc? would the pistons be too far out?
i only see from the pictures is says HOKK, H6 or 9H. recognize that?
Would it matter if it's the S13WB calipers with 4 X 45mm pistons or the 4 X 43mm, S12 casting?
The S13 caliper is probably the one for the 25mm disc, and S12 for the 20mm disc. (i have 20mm discs.)
Is it bad to run the s13 on a 20mm disc? would the pistons be too far out?