My whole “automotive experience “ has been trial and error. Definitely understandThanks! I think the left side turned out better than the right, with less edge mismatch and much less filler. I think that means I'm improving
Build Harumi the Rusty Rescue JDM HJ60 - Build Thread
- Thread starter BrickRunner
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- diesel jdm rust repair
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BrickRunner
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- #162
I'm running out of things to say. I cut out rust, I welded in new metal, etc...
I will say the Eastwood 2K Epoxy spray paint is the most clog prone rattle can I've ever used. It would be one thing if it was cheap, but its not!
And it's not the nozzle, it's the can. Their other products don't seem to have this issue, including the spray can epoxy primer.
It's temporary anyway, until I'm ready to have it professionally painted, so maybe something cheaper will suffice.
The good news is I can count on my fingers how many holes I have left to patch on the lower half of the cruiser!
I will say the Eastwood 2K Epoxy spray paint is the most clog prone rattle can I've ever used. It would be one thing if it was cheap, but its not!
And it's not the nozzle, it's the can. Their other products don't seem to have this issue, including the spray can epoxy primer.
It's temporary anyway, until I'm ready to have it professionally painted, so maybe something cheaper will suffice.
The good news is I can count on my fingers how many holes I have left to patch on the lower half of the cruiser!
I used Eastwood 2k a few times, but mixed and sprayed through a hvlp. If you got the spray can version and it clogged, I would think it wasnt shook up enough, but I haven't used that product before. Saw a video where someone taped the spray can to a recip saw blade and shook it that way to get it real smooth.
Anyway, that might help, but I love the project. Keep it up, we're watching and encouraging you.
Anyway, that might help, but I love the project. Keep it up, we're watching and encouraging you.
BrickRunner
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- #164
BrickRunner
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- #165
This weekend's camping got cancelled, so we had to settle for a day trip yesterday.
Oh well, more time to work on the cruiser!
Got a bit done today before my shade disappeared.
There were a bunch of rust flakes above where the wheel arch was rusted, way more than possibly could be from the wheel arch (and way more than pictured).
I think the roof rusted first, the moisture and rust chunks fell and seeped down and created moisture traps, or settled in low spots, rusting from the inside out.
This fits with the other rust I've repaired so far on the lower half of the cruiser.
Don't let your roof rust go too far!
Oh well, more time to work on the cruiser!
Got a bit done today before my shade disappeared.
There were a bunch of rust flakes above where the wheel arch was rusted, way more than possibly could be from the wheel arch (and way more than pictured).
I think the roof rusted first, the moisture and rust chunks fell and seeped down and created moisture traps, or settled in low spots, rusting from the inside out.
This fits with the other rust I've repaired so far on the lower half of the cruiser.
Don't let your roof rust go too far!
BrickRunner
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- #166
The eternal battle of the weekend welding warrior and the ravaging rustmonster.
BrickRunner
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- #167
The beatings will continue until fit improves!
Great fight!!! What are the specs on the magnets you use to hold patch panels?
BrickRunner
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BrickRunner
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- #170
More exciting pictures of magnets, patch panels, and paint.
BrickRunner
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- #171
I'm probably getting ahead of myself with all of the rust I still have to repair, buuuuuuuuuut.....
...these door cards from @orikawa are awesome!
Since I have a RHD cruiser with a LHD master switch, Spenser made one large hole instead of two smaller master switch holes for me. However, the master switch connectors weren't sitting correctly in the 'wiring valley' stamped into the door. The wires from the master switch exit it on the opposite end that they would if it was a RHD switch. This puts the connector in the wrong spot and the connector then sits proud of the door card mounting surface, preventing the door card from sitting flat. I finangled the wiring and massaged the door a bit so that they were flush and now the door card fits perfectly!
...these door cards from @orikawa are awesome!
Since I have a RHD cruiser with a LHD master switch, Spenser made one large hole instead of two smaller master switch holes for me. However, the master switch connectors weren't sitting correctly in the 'wiring valley' stamped into the door. The wires from the master switch exit it on the opposite end that they would if it was a RHD switch. This puts the connector in the wrong spot and the connector then sits proud of the door card mounting surface, preventing the door card from sitting flat. I finangled the wiring and massaged the door a bit so that they were flush and now the door card fits perfectly!
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Looks great! Not a huge mod for the panels on my end but it makes all the difference!
BrickRunner
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- #173
Another bondo blob hiding hidden treasure!
BrickRunner
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- #174
The front left door has a hole that I couldn't really get to with the door attached. So off it came. And then I found more rust. And more!.Yay!
BrickRunner
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- #175
Naval Jelly, good for dissolving rust and helping upset stomachs. Also good on toast.
BrickRunner
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- #176
Not too shabby for a ball peen hammer, some punches and a vice.
BrickRunner
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- #177
That wraps it up for the lower exterior! Up next: Floor pans
BrickRunner
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BrickRunner
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- #179
Ok, I know it's not floor pans, but it is still 'bodywork' that needs to get done before I send the cruiser off to paint...
BrickRunner
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- #180
Any glue bonding the hood to the substructure was looooooooooong gone. Bending the flanges down in the intercooler hole added some stiffness back. When I get around to designing the intercooler and mount, I will also build a bolt in funnel/frame thingy to direct air and also add even more stiffness.
