GX460 P2714 P0761 Ultimate Summary and Hope For A Fix Thread

[Rednexus]

I’ve had my ramps for 20+ years. I’ll always trust them before stands. Used them all the time with my Duramax (heavy front end). I have stands. I use them a lot. But I prefer ramps when I’m completely under trying to wrestle a 200+ lb trans out. It wasnt really a problem as the cheap jack I bought couldn’t handle the load with the transfer case. The jack lift worked just fine but the frame for the wheels bent (see pic). I really just needed it to raise and lower. The trans was slid out on its side with help from my floor jack. I’ll weld on larger gussets for reinstall. Bellhousing came out just behind the ramp. I may reinstall the bellhousing after I get it under when going back in.

The chocks are on the drivers side

The last pair of ramps I had cracked! Too bad as I actually liked using them for changing the oil on a Mazda 3 hatchback I had at that time, which was super-low to the ground and difficult to get a floorjack under. Luckily all of our current rigs have better jacking points, so it's NBD to lift them up with a 6,000# floorjacks.

Your trans actually looks quite clean on the inside, although the fluid is a bit brown-ish. Any smoking guns so far?

 

[Rednexus]

I would totally put in a lift if my garage could accommodate it but I think I will finally pick up some Quick Jacks instead. Still not the same but IMO.. better than ramps and jack stands and greater lift height.

https://www.quickjack.com/

I designed my shop to accommodate a lift (footings in the floor, 12' walls with a cathedral ceiling, and it's wired for one) but I can't stomach the $5K+ cost for a non-Chinese knockoff lift right now. I also like the shop being open and not having 2 giant posts in the middle bay, as we also use the shop for many other things (including living it it while waiting for the house to get done!). Maybe in the future, but it would take another project vehicle to justify it.

 

[gsi18867]

The last pair of ramps I had cracked! Too bad as I actually liked using them for changing the oil on a Mazda 3 hatchback I had at that time, which was super-low to the ground and difficult to get a floorjack under. Luckily all of our current rigs have better jacking points, so it's NBD to lift them up with a 6,000# floorjacks.

Your trans actually looks quite clean on the inside, although the fluid is a bit brown-ish. Any smoking guns so far?

No smoking gun yet. That fluid has less than 5K miles on it. And I’ve done 2X 5 qt swaps and a filter change. The clutches Ive removed so far are dark. I’m not experienced enough to tell if they’re burnt. None of the metal disks between have discoloration. All seals look great. No leaks

 

[Acrad]

I designed my shop to accommodate a lift (footings in the floor, 12' walls with a cathedral ceiling, and it's wired for one) but I can't stomach the $5K+ cost for a non-Chinese knockoff lift right now. I also like the shop being open and not having 2 giant posts in the middle bay, as we also use the shop for many other things (including living it it while waiting for the house to get done!). Maybe in the future, but it would take another project vehicle to justify it.

I totally understand... one of my future investments at another property is for shop large enough I can do anything but that is down the road a bit.

In the meantime I need to get measurements done for current vehicles to see which Quickjack model I need. I think the 8000TL will accommodate.

 

[Rednexus]

I totally understand... one of my future investments at another property is for shop large enough I can do anything but that is down the road a bit.

In the meantime I need to get measurements done for current vehicles to see which Quickjack model I need. I think the 8000TL will accommodate.

Let me know how it works if you get a set. The 8K standard-length does appear to be ideally sized for a Toyota SUV, and overall they look like a pretty big jump over a set of jackstands without the expense and permanence of a lift.

 

[gsi18867]

It’s definitely both, but if I’m of the opinion if we can point to either temps or oil change interval as the main factor for seal hardening then temps are the #1 offender

I’d say it’s both but would put more weight on temps. This thing has the cats on either side. It’s a small tunnel with an ex pipe crossing under the trans

 

[Biginboca]

Just reporting in with another day of absolutely trouble free running in D, perfect shifts and all gears normal.

Meanwhile the GX just keeps giving with another nice surprise. Opened the hood today it’s time to get caught up on deferred maintenance like Spark plugs and coolant change. And for the first time ever I noticed a sticker under the hood.

I purchased my 2011 GX in 2020 with 106k miles, and it’s a base model not a premium. I honestly never even knew this was an option on GX back then.

So what do you know… I googled and it says press the lock button on the fob twice then hold it for 3 seconds, which I did and my GX started!

I’m really falling in love with this truck all over again!

 

[Acrad]

It was a port or dealer installed option. I installed it in my '12. That sticker was part of the kit

GX460 #Remote #Engine #Start ( #RES & #RES+ ) - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion

GX - 2nd Gen (2010-2023) - GX460 #Remote #Engine #Start ( #RES & #RES+ ) - Is there any sort of setting the dealer can change to keep the vehicle running upon entering it after it has been remote started? It shuts off every time I open the door and get in. Dealer told me that's the way Lexus...

www.clublexus.com

 

[Acrad]

You can also add a Glass Break Sensor to the factory alarm

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-2nd-gen-2010-2023/905789-factory-alarm-gbs-2.html#post10428032

 

[gsi18867]

Everything out. Still disassembling the piston housings, so haven’t seen the actual bonded seals just yet. 8 clutch packs. All very dark. No visual damage to any gears. No loose metal fragments, no visual damage to any mandrels or housings

Just reporting in with another day of absolutely trouble free running in D, perfect shifts and all gears normal.

Meanwhile the GX just keeps giving with another nice surprise. Opened the hood today it’s time to get caught up on deferred maintenance like Spark plugs and coolant change. And for the first time ever I noticed a sticker under the hood.

View attachment 4180303

I purchased my 2011 GX in 2020 with 106k miles, and it’s a base model not a premium. I honestly never even knew this was an option on GX back then.

So what do you know… I googled and it says press the lock button on the fob twice then hold it for 3 seconds, which I did and my GX started!

I’m really falling in love with this truck all over again!

how long did your truck sit before the AT205 experiment? The reason I ask is before my reverse completely gave up, the longer it sat, the better chance I had that reverse would work immediately upon start up. Time combined with AT205?

 

[BlkGX2011]

Just reporting in with another day of absolutely trouble free running in D, perfect shifts and all gears normal.

Meanwhile the GX just keeps giving with another nice surprise. Opened the hood today it’s time to get caught up on deferred maintenance like Spark plugs and coolant change. And for the first time ever I noticed a sticker under the hood.

View attachment 4180303

I purchased my 2011 GX in 2020 with 106k miles, and it’s a base model not a premium. I honestly never even knew this was an option on GX back then.

So what do you know… I googled and it says press the lock button on the fob twice then hold it for 3 seconds, which I did and my GX started!

I’m really falling in love with this truck all over again!

I think the real test will be when its winter again and temperatures drop significantly, like in December, or January time. My trans worked fine in AZ summer but would act up during winter, colder temps.

 

[Rednexus]

I’d say it’s both but would put more weight on temps. This thing has the cats on either side. It’s a small tunnel with an ex pipe crossing under the trans

FWIW, the GX470 has the same downstream cat and Y pipe location as the 460. IMO it's more due to the thermostat and lack of an aux cooler as opposed to the cat location. One benefit of the exhaust being where it is is that the GXs have great ground clearance.

 

[Biginboca]

Everything out. Still disassembling the piston housings, so haven’t seen the actual bonded seals just yet. 8 clutch packs. All very dark. No visual damage to any gears. No loose metal fragments, no visual damage to any mandrels or housings

how long did your truck sit before the AT205 experiment? The reason I ask is before my reverse completely gave up, the longer it sat, the better chance I had that reverse would work immediately upon start up. Time combined with AT205?

View attachment 4180423

View attachment 4180424

View attachment 4180425

My GX first had the codes about 2.5 years ago January 2024 @ 141k miles (post #7 on page 1 of this thread) and I did Sport mode for about a year before losing reverse occasionally in January of 2025 at 154k. At that time I parked the GX next to my driveway (Post #224 in this thread).

It sat until Jan 2026, about a year later, until my wife who had not been working took a new job and needed transportation. The job was less than 3 miles away so we put a battery in the GX and she started driving to to work 2-3 days a week with strict instructions to always back into parking spots upon arrival because reverse may not work when you go to leave somewhere. We also started using it for local errands like grocery store, etc. We put maybe 3500 miles on it from Jan 2026 to July 2026 driving it 4-5 times a week.

So it was driven somewhat regularly from Jan 2026 up to the experiment. The last few weeks before the experiment she had it not work in reverse a few times even after driving to work, and I started driving it more to run errands and it didn’t work in reverse the last 4 times I drove it the week before the experiment.

My GX was at about 159,740 when I added the AT205 9 days ago and is at 160,050 now so a little over 300 miles added since the experiment. Since the experiment started I have swapped cars with my wife and I’m driving the GX daily.

This morning with no warm up I drove down the same section of road to work that always tripped the codes before in D and it’s driving fine in D. Reverse has not failed to engage immediately a single time since added AT205 and probably close to 60 uses now, and I always start it and try reverse immediately because I want to see if I can make it fail and it hasn’t once.

Guys, I can’t shout this any louder. Try a bottle of AT205. It’s $20 on Amazon prime delivery, installs in 3 minutes with a single 24mm plug removed. What have you got to lose!?!?

BTW if you do buy it I recommend you buy this also. This is what I used to put it into the transmission, a large syringe with tubing. The entire bottle of AT205 only filled this about halfway:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SRGLJ5T?tag=ihco-20

 

[gsi18867]

My GX first had the codes about 2.5 years ago January 2024 @ 141k miles (post #7 on page 1 of this thread) and I did Sport mode for about a year before losing reverse occasionally in January of 2025 at 154k. At that time I parked the GX next to my driveway (Post #224 in this thread).

It sat until Jan 2026, about a year later, until my wife who had not been working took a new job and needed transportation. The job was less than 3 miles away so we put a battery in the GX and she started driving to to work 2-3 days a week with strict instructions to always back into parking spots upon arrival because reverse may not work when you go to leave somewhere. We also started using it for local errands like grocery store, etc. I would say we put maybe 1500 miles on it from Jan 2026 to July 2026 driving it 4-5 times a week.

So it was driven somewhat regularly from Jan 2026 up to the experiment. The last few weeks before the experiment she had it not work in reverse a few times even after driving to work, and I started driving it more to run errands and it didn’t work in reverse the last 4 times I drove it the week before the experiment.

My GX was at about 159,740 when I added the AT205 9 days ago and is at 160,050 now so a little over 300 miles added since the experiment. This morning with no warm up I drove down the same section of road to work that always tripped the codes before in D and it’s driving fine in D. Reverse has not failed to engage immediately a single time since added AT205 and probably close to 60 uses now, and I always start it and try reverse immediately because I want to see if I can make it fail and it hasn’t once.

Guys, I can’t shout this any louder. Try a bottle of AT205. It’s $20 on Amazon prime delivery, installs in 3 minutes with a single 24mm plug removed. What have you got to lose!?!?

BTW if you do buy it I recommend you buy this also. This is what I used to put it into the transmission, a large syringe with tubing:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SRGLJ5T?tag=ihco-20

View attachment 4180517

Identical reverse problem I have. I never needed sport shift. I wish I tried AT205 before I pulled it. After pulling it apart, I can see exactly what’s going on. Even if you get full piston fill, any leak past the seals can keep full engagement of the clutches from occurring if you lose full engagement pressure. And there is a lot of weight to shift. Did you ever get very weak reverse after cold start, if only for a few seconds. I used to plan my parking knowing I could get a few feet of reverse. But that recently stopped, which made parking in one way parking lots a real problem, hence the tear down.

 

[Biginboca]

Identical reverse problem I have. I never needed sport shift. I wish I tried AT205 before I pulled it. After pulling it apart, I can see exactly what’s going on. Even if you get full piston fill, any leak past the seals can keep full engagement of the clutches from occurring if you lose full engagement pressure. And there is a lot of weight to shift. Did you ever get very weak reverse after cold start, if only for a few seconds. I used to plan my parking knowing I could get a few feet of reverse. But that recently stopped, which made parking in one way parking lots a real problem, hence the tear down.

The reverse didn’t work sometimes, and sometimes revving a bit would make it engage suddenly. Most often when it didn’t engage it just would not catch no matter what, and this could happen even after driving and it was warmed up. I had a few instances, like 2 or 3 times when cold, where the 2-3 upshift was weird, like it called for 3rd didn’t get it and then tried calling for third again and it engaged. That one was scary but rare only happened 2-3 times in 20k miles.

The thing is, all my shifts are smooth and normal now. There is not a single oddity to report in how the transmission is operating. When I WOT the shifts are quick and sharp, when I drive normally they are smooth. The revs never seem off at all.

 

[gsi18867]

The reverse didn’t work sometimes, and sometimes revving a bit would make it engage suddenly. Most often when it didn’t engage it just would not catch no matter what, and this could happen even after driving and it was warmed up. I had a few instances, like 2 or 3 times when cold, where the 2-3 upshift was weird, like it called for 3rd didn’t get it and then tried calling for third again and it engaged. That one was scary but rare only happened 2-3 times in 20k miles.

The thing is, all my shifts are smooth and normal now. There is not a single oddity to report in how the transmission is operating. When I WOT the shifts are quick and sharp, when I drive normally they are smooth. The revs never seem off at all.

Yep, exact reverse symptoms. From what I’m looking at, the 2-3 shift is the tail end of the first piston. 3-4 should be the beginning of the 4-6 piston. Which is why some of us got a delayed shift, drop in power at that shift. It looks like the least amount of shift pressure needed is into 1st gear, the largest piston. I think that’s why getting it into 1st gear from park is not a symptom we’ve heard before. I believe the reverse clutch pack is all the way in the rear of the case, so it would need the most amount of pressure on the smallest piston to shift.

 

[jpeterferrell]

I agree that the root cause of all this is heat...compounded by a few things. All of which contribute to the fluid cooking, then the transmission cooking. In no particular order...

(1) The transmission should have had the auxiliary cooler in all markets, full stop. That *might* have slowed a lot of this, or prevented it altogether.
(2) The fluid just isn't "lifetime." Even a drain and fill interval of 50k or so would have done a lot of good, combined with a recommendation to pull the strainer and replace in heavy use scenarios at 120k or so. Eventually, this fluid will cook, and start messing stuff up.
(3) General weak points that cause high temp conditions. Think things like the heater tees failing, the coolant valley leak, fan clutches wearing out, etc. These are all things that start to become a problem around 100k, and any one of them (or a combination of them) can lead to high heat situations. Since the transmission fluid is running through the integrated cooler in the radiator, a heat-soaked and overworked primary cooling system is going to translate that to the transmission.

Put all that together, and it's a recipe for disaster. Probably mitigated in more temperate climates, or by use-cases that don't normally result in high transmission temperatures, but combine all that and you see the results at 120k-150k on these things!

 

[Rednexus]

Put all that together, and it's a recipe for disaster. Probably mitigated in more temperate climates, or by use-cases that don't normally result in high transmission temperatures, but combine all that and you see the results at 120k-150k on these things!

Cooling is such an easy upgrade too with bolt-on parts. I checked vitals on my 470 this morning and thought of this thread. The static temp was 85 degrees, heat index was 95+ (it's quite humid here this week) and I had already driven 35 miles of rolling 4-lane highway hills when this pic was taken. This is with a CSF aluminum radiator (~$500) and Hayden 698 cooler (~$75). GX460 trans failures could probably be completely prevented with those two aftermarket parts.

 

[gsi18867]

Cooling is such an easy upgrade too with bolt-on parts. I checked vitals on my 470 this morning and thought of this thread. The static temp was 85 degrees, heat index was 95+ (it's quite humid here this week) and I had already driven 35 miles of rolling 4-lane highway hills when this pic was taken. This is with a CSF aluminum radiator (~$500) and Hayden 698 cooler (~$75). GX460 trans failures could probably be completely prevented with those two aftermarket parts.
View attachment 4180746

Looks like I’m definitely going with a cooler add on if I get my truck back together

 

[landtank]

I’ve got a Tundra 5.7 with almost 200,000 and have hauled trucks up and down the east coast. No issues.

2 days ago on a facebook group a guy with a 2021 needs a transmission.

My 2018 was the last year for the factory transmission cooler.

My wife’s GX 460 is getting one.