Builds Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB (4 Viewers)

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Glad you chose to stick with the drums. Boring yes, doubtful to be worth the money maybe but in the end :)

What size is stamped on your front and rear wheel cylinders? Fronts should be 1 1/4 and rears should be 7/8. At any rate backs should be smaller than fronts.
 
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How to Make your barn or garage find road-worthy- Part Three Restoring the Brake System
https://garage.eastwood.com/eastwood-chatter/barn-find-brakes/

This Vintage 1934 Film Perfectly Explains How Drum Brakes Work
This Vintage 1934 Film Perfectly Explains How Drum Brakes Work

SCG Classic Car Troubleshooting Checklist — Drum Brakes
Drum Brake Troubleshooting Checklist

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Yesterday`s driving fun- today`s braking saftey .........by Porsche

The only part of a Porsche that is designed to slow things down.
Since the 1950s requirements for safety-related components such as the braking system have increased.
Porsche Classic has now reissued the brake drums for the Porsche 356 A for both axles.
Produced in accordance with the original plans and featuring the original look, of course.

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Glad you chose to stick with the drums. Boring yes, doubtful to be worth the money maybe but in the end :)

What size is stamped on your front and rear wheel cylinders? Fronts should be 1 1/8 I think and rears should be 7/8 I think. At any rate backs should be smaller than fronts.

Good idea to Check. Maybe the rears got the big bore
 
The good. From the tub back and the engine bay are all clean and Rust Converter treated. Took 2 more cans for the axle to the tub.

I got about 30# of Arizona out of that section of the frame.

C2F7437F-C9CC-4BC1-A55D-A1FD719AEEC9.jpeg

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Now for the belly section.

Ugh. Not sure how @Texican stood it when he ran the new exhaust leaving all that crap in the frame.

I’m dreading this. I have found I prefer to chip it out into the shop vac versus trying to wash it out with water.

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D241F267-F3AE-4A4C-ADD7-A1FD56D562E9.jpeg
 
The good. From the tub back and the engine bay are all clean and Rust Converter treated. Took 2 more cans for the axle to the tub.

I got about 30# of Arizona out of that section of the frame.

View attachment 1639352
View attachment 1639353

Now for the belly section.

Ugh. Not sure how @Texican stood it when he ran the new exhaust leaving all that crap in the frame.

I’m dreading this. I have found I prefer to chip it out into the shop vac versus trying to wash it out with water.

View attachment 1639354

View attachment 1639355

When the work is done spray her belly the insides of the doors and frame too.
https://www.fluid-film.com/
Cheers Peter
 
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Wow that's some serious crud build up. Keep scraping away. Truck is looking great.
 
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Ugh. Not sure how @Texican stood it when he ran the new exhaust leaving all that crap in the frame
 
my FJ45 frame was packed on the drivers side.. leaking manual steering box and leaking oil bath air cleaner i believe were the cause. You should be pleased when you get it all cleaned out, factory paint was intact in that region.. I used a power washer, and dollar store degreaser/grill cleaner.
 
Drivers side of the tub was easy. Nice and clean. Just brushed and wiped the metal and hosed it with 1/2 can of Rust Inhibitor

Passenger side though.

51 years of driveshaft grease, leaking parking brakes and 1/4” of glazed gasoline was bad. 3 hours I spent with a paint scraper and wire brush.

It’s clean. I made 3 piles like this and I still have yet to drop the skid plate and tackle the section of frame that’s packed full.

Something to look forward to on Saturday.

AA6D150D-D89A-41CA-9FAE-2B7E6E531D23.jpeg
 

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