Gas tank building excessive pressure & fuel smell. Dangerous for sure! Why does this happen?

[Skidoo]

Alright @2001LC , count me in for helping with experiments. I'm giving my LX470 1 year and less than $1,000 to fix this venting garbage or she's being traded for a Jeep or Land Rover. We just got back from a camping trip and she gassed me and my son in the cab (headaches the rest of the night), and vented for a good half hour at camp, including brief twists of the cap to vent it quicker. My dad just laughed and unscrewed the cap on his JK, not so much as the faintest whisper of pressure. All of this after having previously worked on it last year (including a mod dream-crushing $600 charcoal canister swap in Ridgeway Colorado.)

Anyway, I'm going to give the LX one more winter to sort this out, but if it barfs again, it's going on the trading block.

That is pretty messed up. Sounds like you are going through the components, you might also check all the fuel and vent lines. One guy had a vent line pinched shut by a dealer that replaced the gas tank. A hard line could be crushed, or soft line pinched.

 

[abuck99]

ECT

You asked: "-New solenoid valve on the intake (still need one more to do, are they the same part #?)" I'm not sure what solenoid you're asking about. A dealership or www.partsouq.com with your VIN # will help you make that determination. Your scanner may or may not have ability to log data and generate a report in realtime. Most (hard wired) scanners can just see few data points, but do not log the data. I'm using BlueDriver & iphone or Tech stream & PC. These can log data and generate a reports.

I'm unsure if CAT temps can be read before VVT (2006) which have a A/F sensor. I'll need to check the years in my scans when I get chance in well tuned stock.

Right now what I'm most interested in is getting a baseline for ECT, by year.

Other data like OAT, Fuel trims, RPM, MPH, CAT temps, etc. will help in seeing conditions at time. Those may also give clues to other issues. Reason being is, first one that came to me, engine was running way to hot. I managed to get ECT down by ~15F and steady. Once that was done, the fuel boiling condition greatly improved. Now I can start looking elsewhere on that one. It may have taken some damage from boiling fuel and extreme pressure caused be such boiling.

Differences in years, I believe we can break down into 3 groups:
98-02: 184F to 187F ECT in this engine configuration, in all pure stock well tuned rigs.
03-05: ECT ?
06-07: ECT ?

I first want to know, that engine is running at optimal design and engine coolant temps and fuel trims help me see that at a glance. That way I'll not chases my tail looking at EVAP and Fuel system.


Toyota has a few ways to change ECT and the range. One will likely never know the is the software in the ECM code. But others are little more apparent in parts used.
98-02 First generation; has different throttle body, ECT sensors (2) and CC (charcoal canister) in engine bay.
03-05 First major change to throttle body. Only one ECT sensor used. CC move to rear.
06-07 VVT. Change in Fan clutch & Fan blade design. Many other changes also. Some very aprentent others not so much. This engine, we're seeing runs hotter and temp has greater spread. But need more examples of well tuned stock.

We then need to look at built rigs, to compare. So all data from all configuration, is key.

This is going to take until next summer at least. As summer heat is key to most as is altitude.

I would add A/C on or off when consolidating your averages for ECT by model year. My truck ECT at idle runs a little cooler with A/C off. Also consider measuring Trans Temps in this matrix as well. Higher trans temps will inch ECT slightly higher.

For reference average city/hwy driving in 85-95F ECT runs at 190F with A/C on and stationary indefintely idling in the driveway 186-188 in the same OAT. Trans temps high 130's to low 140's around town summer time. On recent Westward trip driving 15hrs straight in 90~100 OAT ECT were 188-193 and trans temps 148-170. Heat soak has a big impact on ECT & Trans Temp after hours and hours of continuous driving in high OAT.

 

[8lifgr8]

I'll start logging engine temps, that's easy since it's my daily. Is there a safe way to get Testbook without risking chinese spyware?

I'll take a look at all my lines. They looked good in the engine bay and underneath (when I swapped the canister), but I'm unsure about the lines that go from the rear to the front.

 

[suprarx7nut]

You asked: "-New solenoid valve on the intake (still need one more to do, are they the same part #?)" I'm not sure what solenoid you're asking about. A dealership or www.partsouq.com with your VIN # will help you make that determination. Your scanner may or may not have ability to log data and generate a report in realtime. Most (hard wired) scanners can just see few data points, but do not log the data. I'm using BlueDriver & iphone or Tech stream & PC. These can log data and generate a reports.

I'm unsure if CAT temps can be read before VVT (2006) which have a A/F sensor. I'll need to check the years in my scans when I get chance in well tuned stock.

Right now what I'm most interested in is getting a baseline for ECT, by year.

Other data like OAT, Fuel trims, RPM, MPH, CAT temps, etc. will help in seeing conditions at time. Those may also give clues to other issues. Reason being is, first one that came to me, engine was running way to hot. I managed to get ECT down by ~15F and steady. Once that was done, the fuel boiling condition greatly improved. Now I can start looking elsewhere on that one. It may have taken some damage from boiling fuel and extreme pressure caused be such boiling.

Differences in years, I believe we can break down into 3 groups:
98-02: 184F to 187F ECT in this engine configuration, in all pure stock well tuned rigs.
03-05: ECT ?
06-07: ECT ?

I first want to know, that engine is running at optimal design and engine coolant temps and fuel trims help me see that at a glance. That way I'll not chases my tail looking at EVAP and Fuel system.


Toyota has a few ways to change ECT and the range. One will likely never know the is the software in the ECM code. But others are little more apparent in parts used.
98-02 First generation; has different throttle body, ECT sensors (2) and CC (charcoal canister) in engine bay.
03-05 First major change to throttle body. Only one ECT sensor used. CC move to rear.
06-07 VVT. Change in Fan clutch & Fan blade design. Many other changes also. Some very aprentent others not so much. This engine, we're seeing runs hotter and temp has greater spread. But need more examples of well tuned stock.

We then need to look at built rigs, to compare. So all data from all configuration, is key.

This is going to take until next summer at least. As summer heat is key to most as is altitude.

For your records, my 06 has the following stats with Dissent armor, sliders, old fan clutch (seems too loud during normal acceleration):

ECT:
Idle on hot day: 198-210F
Highway on hot day: 195F

Air Intake
Idle on hot day: 160F
Highway on hot day: 105-110F


I'm going to replace the fan clutch soon and see if it changes anything.

 

[Skidoo]

For your records, my 06 has the following stats with Dissent armor, sliders, old fan clutch (seems too loud during normal acceleration):

ECT:
Idle on hot day: 198-210F
Highway on hot day: 195F

Air Intake
Idle on hot day: 160F
Highway on hot day: 105-110F


I'm going to replace the fan clutch soon and see if it changes anything.

I don't think you have a snorkel with those intake temps. We are having a real heat wave here so I will get some intake numbers with my snorkel.

 

[J1000]

Since I last posted in this thread I have not recorded an MPG lower than 13.6. I have also not smelled fuel outside my vehicle at all. I did some wheeling up to 10k feet and did not experience any overheating, no fuel vapor smell at all, no boiling, and my MPG was 14. Usually after a day of wheeling I am 10-11 MPG because of high heat and high evaporation of fuel (smelling gasoline vapors = evaporation of fuel), but instead it was 14 MPG and I did not smell anything all day.

I have since capped off my EVAP line and gotten a new gas cap. After stopping all my leaks, I found out the Lexus/Toyota gas caps are vented around 7 psi positive pressure = releasing your gasoline straight into the atmosphere. I replaced with a Carquest 10834 non-venting gas cap. This cap lets pressure in under vacuum but does not release under pressure. @suprarx7nut I guarantee your leaking gas around the filler door is from either the leaking EVAP/plastic ring or your vented gas cap. Been there, done that. I would NOT recommend doing this unless you also heat shield your fuel system to stop excessive heat build up. I would be curious to see a 105 6-cylinder in person to see how the EVAP system works comparatively (presumably less exhaust heat).

Instead of just capping off my EVAP line, I drilled out and tapped the nipple bump and installed a 1/2" barb fitting and used silicone hose to connect it. I JB Welded it and pressure tested my tank to 30 PSI. Now I can fill up the tank normally without the pump shutting off every 3 seconds. Even using the Kum & Go stations that have fire hoses for gas pumps. No CELs now after a few tanks.

1/2" barb to 1/4" NPT fitting: EDGE INDUSTRIAL 1/2" Hose ID to 1/4" Male NPT MNPT Straight Brass Fitting Fuel/AIR / Water/Oil / Gas/WOG: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
1/2" silicone hose: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TNRKNH4/?tag=ihco-20
1/4" NPT tap: Amazon.com: IRWIN NPT Tap for Tap Die Extraction, 1/4-Inch, 18 NPT(1903ZR): Home Improvement
JB Weld: https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Cold-Weld-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE/?tag=ihco-20

MPG doesn't lie. I am so happy to be burning my fuel and not just having 2 MPG worth evaporate into the atmosphere. That is so much worse for the environment, benzene etc that is released. Now I am saving money and saving the planet! Of course you know me I will keep documenting my MPG and experiences going forward.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Since I last posted in this thread I have not recorded an MPG lower than 13.6. I have also not smelled fuel outside my vehicle at all. I did some wheeling up to 10k feet and did not experience any overheating, no fuel vapor smell at all, no boiling, and my MPG was 14. Usually after a day of wheeling I am 10-11 MPG because of high heat and high evaporation of fuel (smelling gasoline vapors = evaporation of fuel), but instead it was 14 MPG and I did not smell anything all day.

I have since capped off my EVAP line and gotten a new gas cap. After stopping all my leaks, I found out the Lexus/Toyota gas caps are vented around 7 psi positive pressure = releasing your gasoline straight into the atmosphere. I replaced with a Carquest 10834 non-venting gas cap. This cap lets pressure in under vacuum but does not release under pressure. @suprarx7nut I guarantee your leaking gas around the filler door is from either the leaking EVAP/plastic ring or your vented gas cap. Been there, done that. I would NOT recommend doing this unless you also heat shield your fuel system to stop excessive heat build up. I would be curious to see a 105 6-cylinder in person to see how the EVAP system works comparatively (presumably less exhaust heat).

Instead of just capping off my EVAP line, I drilled out and tapped the nipple bump and installed a 1/2" barb fitting and used silicone hose to connect it. I JB Welded it and pressure tested my tank to 30 PSI. Now I can fill up the tank normally without the pump shutting off every 3 seconds. Even using the Kum & Go stations that have fire hoses for gas pumps. No CELs now after a few tanks.

1/2" barb to 1/4" NPT fitting: EDGE INDUSTRIAL 1/2" Hose ID to 1/4" Male NPT MNPT Straight Brass Fitting Fuel/AIR / Water/Oil / Gas/WOG: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
1/2" silicone hose: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TNRKNH4/?tag=ihco-20
1/4" NPT tap: Amazon.com: IRWIN NPT Tap for Tap Die Extraction, 1/4-Inch, 18 NPT(1903ZR): Home Improvement
JB Weld: https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Cold-Weld-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE/?tag=ihco-20

MPG doesn't lie. I am so happy to be burning my fuel and not just having 2 MPG worth evaporate into the atmosphere. That is so much worse for the environment, benzene etc that is released. Now I am saving money and saving the planet! Of course you know me I will keep documenting my MPG and experiences going forward.

Any idea what normal tank pressures are? Or what pressure the tank is rated for?

 

[J1000]

Any idea what normal tank pressures are? Or what pressure the tank is rated for?

No I have been trying to get Tank Pressure into Torque but so far unable. I even paid for an "Advanced Toyota app plug in" to no avail. Planning to add an old fashioned boost gauge if I can't figure out the PIDs soon. I noticed the EVAP solenoid duty cycle has jumped up considerably. Before it was usually 20-30% in closed loop. Now I see it go up to 100% regularly, presumably to deal with the extra pressure. So far I have run it down below 1/4 in the heat we have been having lately after highway driving and similar fuel temperatures I've been seeing all year but tank pressure (when releasing fuel cap) has been nominal. Same as my other "normal" vehicles.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I don't think you have a snorkel with those intake temps. We are having a real heat wave here so I will get some intake numbers with my snorkel.

Correct, no snorkel.

No I have been trying to get Tank Pressure into Torque but so far unable. I even paid for an "Advanced Toyota app plug in" to no avail. Planning to add an old fashioned boost gauge if I can't figure out the PIDs soon. I noticed the EVAP solenoid duty cycle has jumped up considerably. Before it was usually 20-30% in closed loop. Now I see it go up to 100% regularly, presumably to deal with the extra pressure. So far I have run it down below 1/4 in the heat we have been having lately after highway driving and similar fuel temperatures I've been seeing all year but tank pressure (when releasing fuel cap) has been nominal. Same as my other "normal" vehicles.

Oooh, is that that duty cycle a PID Torque can read? If so, can you share what you're using? I'd love to see that. I think that's key to this issue. If I can see that the EVAP solenoid is anything less than 100% when these venting events happen, I'd want to look into manually overriding that or multiplying it somehow.

 

[J1000]

Correct, no snorkel.



Oooh, is that that duty cycle a PID Torque can read? If so, can you share what you're using? I'd love to see that. I think that's key to this issue. If I can see that the EVAP solenoid is anything less than 100% when these venting events happen, I'd want to look into manually overriding that or multiplying it somehow.

Looks like the plug-in has that locked down so I can't see the PID directly. See screenshots below. The add on was only $6 I think, one was free.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Looks like the plug-in has that locked down so I can't see the PID directly. See screenshots below. The add on was only $6 I think, one was free.

Awesome, thank you!

 

[J1000]

If I can see that the EVAP solenoid is anything less than 100% when these venting events happen, I'd want to look into manually overriding that or multiplying it somehow.

Good luck!

 

[Sykoslug]

What engine did you choose when selecting the PID set?

 

[silver02accord]

I am going through the 100 series that caught fire thread but wanted to post this asap. I havent had the chance to read this thread it it's entirety but I will in the morning . One more update when on the fwy at 65 plus mph engine coolant temp was between 185 and 196, the outside temp was mostly over 100 deg up to about 113. We stopped for some lunch and shut off truck for 15 minutes. Fired up truck and waited at a drive through I noticed the temp when stopped climbed up to 213 deg. I am thinking to replace fan clutch asap as well. Recently replaced t Stat, new oem rad installed by lexus 2 years ago and new oem rad cap within last month. I should add I run 91 the po had ran 87(it sounds like) and I just had ran through a tank full of chevron injector cleaner which would have been diluted by this time due to 2 fuel tank refills on this trip. Please see my post below from other 100 series catching fire thread sorry for double post:

I am in page 5 of this thread but skipping ahead to post here. I have an 06 LX which I bought 2 months ago. This is the first extended road trip of more than 100 miles continuous. I have wheeled the car at approximately 4 to 6k elevation in Temps up to 100 deg no venting issue noted. Prior to this trip to bishop I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and gas cap with oem-the pump is a denso. I replaced thr pump this past week as PM and the truck fired right up. I did not replace fuel sock.

This past weekend I drove from San Diego(sea level) to Bishop approximately 7k elevation. This is about a 6 hour drive the outside temperature was about 90 to 108 degrees for most of the dive. I refueled twice, I am not sure of ethanol content. The most recent refueling was at about 4k feet approximately I filled the tank but did not "too off" beyond thr gas station auto shut off. We stopped at a friend's house at about 6k feet with no noticeable fuel smell. We then climbed another 1k or less to about 7k feet,this portion was mostly off road but speeds in the 20s with a few slow downs for obstacles.

I backed the car into parking spot shut off engine and noticed fuel smell. I looked at fuel tank door and saw visible vapors coming from fuel door. Here is a video link below. When the cap was shut vapors were still coming out. I opened the cap and thr fuel sounded like it was boiling. It took about 15 minutes to stop. The gas tank was approximately 3/4 full at this time.

When I bought the car the PO had maintenance records from Lexus. A cel threw 5 evap codes in March 2020. Per lexus tech: "isolated failure of leak detection pump. Tech recommends replace leak detection pump with vsv and related hoses" There was no cel when I bought it July 2020. I had the following codes come on in my ownership(p0441&p0445 gross leak and incorrect purge flow) I replaced fuel cap with oem and cleared the codes and the codes have not come back at all - it has been approximately 5 weeks.

Fuel door video-i have another showing fuel vapor with fuel door closed prior to opening it but don't think it's helpful.

This is all the details I can think of - maybe I should bite bullet and replace evap system as diagnosed?

 

[suprarx7nut]

View attachment 2428384
What engine did you choose when selecting the PID set?

The Plugin is a little odd. IMO, it's got some faulty user interface quirks. On your screen there, the plugin is represented by the first listing "Avensis" or "Highlander". If you play around with the Torque app you can go into that plugin from the main screen and choose your vehicle. None of the listed vehicles are a 100 series and none use a 2UZ so the list is somewhat meaningless. I kept mine as "Avensis" and selected that as the preselected list. That got me the purge duty cycle.

I am going through the 100 series that caught fire thread but wanted to post this asap. I havent had the chance to read this thread it it's entirety but I will in the morning . One more update when on the fwy at 65 plus mph engine coolant temp was between 185 and 196, the outside temp was mostly over 100 deg up to about 113. We stopped for some lunch and shut off truck for 15 minutes. Fired up truck and waited at a drive through I noticed the temp when stopped climbed up to 213 deg. I am thinking to replace fan clutch asap as well. Recently replaced t Stat, new oem rad installed by lexus 2 years ago and new oem rad cap within last month. I should add I run 91 the po had ran 87(it sounds like) and I just had ran through a tank full of chevron injector cleaner which would have been diluted by this time due to 2 fuel tank refills on this trip. Please see my post below from other 100 series catching fire thread sorry for double post:

I am in page 5 of this thread but skipping ahead to post here. I have an 06 LX which I bought 2 months ago. This is the first extended road trip of more than 100 miles continuous. I have wheeled the car at approximately 4 to 6k elevation in Temps up to 100 deg no venting issue noted. Prior to this trip to bishop I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and gas cap with oem-the pump is a denso. I replaced thr pump this past week as PM and the truck fired right up. I did not replace fuel sock.

This past weekend I drove from San Diego(sea level) to Bishop approximately 7k elevation. This is about a 6 hour drive the outside temperature was about 90 to 108 degrees for most of the dive. I refueled twice, I am not sure of ethanol content. The most recent refueling was at about 4k feet approximately I filled the tank but did not "too off" beyond thr gas station auto shut off. We stopped at a friend's house at about 6k feet with no noticeable fuel smell. We then climbed another 1k or less to about 7k feet,this portion was mostly off road but speeds in the 20s with a few slow downs for obstacles.

I backed the car into parking spot shut off engine and noticed fuel smell. I looked at fuel tank door and saw visible vapors coming from fuel door. Here is a video link below. When the cap was shut vapors were still coming out. I opened the cap and thr fuel sounded like it was boiling. It took about 15 minutes to stop. The gas tank was approximately 3/4 full at this time.

When I bought the car the PO had maintenance records from Lexus. A cel threw 5 evap codes in March 2020. Per lexus tech: "isolated failure of leak detection pump. Tech recommends replace leak detection pump with vsv and related hoses" There was no cel when I bought it July 2020. I had the following codes come on in my ownership(p0441&p0445 gross leak and incorrect purge flow) I replaced fuel cap with oem and cleared the codes and the codes have not come back at all - it has been approximately 5 weeks.

Fuel door video-i have another showing fuel vapor with fuel door closed prior to opening it but don't think it's helpful.

This is all the details I can think of - maybe I should bite bullet and replace evap system as diagnosed?

FWIW, I have very similar temps on my 06LX. Seemingly healthy engine, but at prolonged hot idle, my ECT climbs past 210F. I am also planning on a new fan clutch (as a good preventative maintenance item if nothing else) and will seek to lower air intake temps. My air intake temps get up to 170F. That seems really f-in hot. I had one time where I tried to start it quickly after shutting down and the engine sputtered and died. I think the intake temps in excess of 170F were a contributor. After a short cool down and getting some air flowing, it fired up and intake temps were below 160.

Final note: The fuel vapor smell and boiling isn't worrisome for me. Some venting is perfectly normal and safe. What's not normal or safe is when condensate or liquid fuel is gushing from the vehicle. I think it's important to differentiate between normal venting and dangerous liquid spewing/condensing that leaves the liquid trails down the side of the quarter panel. I think that's were the big fire risk lies.

 

[Sykoslug]

The Plugin is a little odd. IMO, it's got some faulty user interface quirks. On your screen there, the plugin is represented by the first listing "Avensis" or "Highlander". If you play around with the Torque app you can go into that plugin from the main screen and choose your vehicle. None of the listed vehicles are a 100 series and none use a 2UZ so the list is somewhat meaningless. I kept mine as "Avensis" and selected that as the preselected list. That got me the purge duty cycle.

Thanks I'll try it with the non-2UZ engine PID lists and see what I get.

 

[J1000]

View attachment 2428384
What engine did you choose when selecting the PID set?

I tried all of the vehicles that the add on has listed but they all have the same results. Go back to the main screen and tap the Advanced icon and then do Start Scan and it will scan through, then add that vehicle PIDs on the other screen. Hope that make sense.

 

[silver02accord]

I'm about to replace all of the lines in my entire fuel system and gas tank probably with quality Gates not OEM. Even the gas fill neck connection. On my truck I have the opposite problem, no pressure build up in the tank at all but fumes around the rear end at times. The earlier trucks built up crazy pressure, the newer trucks just leak it out. Fuel temp gets well over 110F on an average 70-80F day, and if it's hotter then 120+F fuel temperature is reached. Since no pressure build up this means the fuel boils.

I have followed the FSM procedure for pressure testing the fuel vapor system and I have multiple leaks from nearly all hose connections on or around the gas tank.

I've already done shielding of the fuel lines the next step after I replace all of the fuel vapor lines is adding a fuel cooler radiator and fan with a 100F thermostat.

Fuel cooler: Amazon.com: Dorman 918-337 Fuel Cooler for Select Chevrolet/GMC Models: Automotive
100F thermostatic switch: Amazon.com: Midwest Hearth Thermal Fan Switch for Fireplace Blower (115 Degree ON, 90 Degree OFF): Home Improvement

My two point plan is to try and further reduce fuel temperature and secondly stop all vapor leaks.

How do you know if your have high pressure build up-engine shuts off/sputters? I definitely had the leaking vapors in my 06, then opened the gas cap (sounds like wrong move) and could hear the fuel boiling see my post above.

 

[d4nvu]

I'm reporting back to say that all my fuel boiling and excessive pressure problems have been completely resolved. I am ECSTATIC!

This is what I replaced in the previous month and STILL experienced problems:

• Radiator (Spectra)
• Radiator Cap (OEM)
• Thermostat (OEM)
• Coolant Flush (Toyota Red)
• Clutch Fan (Aisin)
• Fuel Pressure Regulator (OEM)
• Fuel Pump (Denso)
• Fuel Cap (OEM)
• VSV

This is what I did differently this trip and has seemed to completely FIXED the problem:

• Extend Heatshield (I also have aftermarket CATs and used 24 gauge 24"x 4" sheet of aluminum)
• Wrap Fuel lines (used fuel wrap and galvanized steel wire)
• Fixed the pinched vapor fuel line (might have blocked venting to my CC)

Some anecdotal evidence: Came back from a 3 day trip on slow crawls and highway driving (both of which I have previously experienced these problems) in 90-105F weather, A/C blasting at 8500' in Lassen National Forest. This trip was much higher elevation, hotter, and fully loaded compared to my previous trips. My 2002 LX470 @ 196k miles has Dissent F/R bumpers, dual swing outs, full Dissent aluminum skids, 12k winch, 3 Jerry Cans, 33s on stock 16s, stock gearing, Front runner roof rack, Tepui tent, KISS drawers and sliders. The truck was also fully loaded with 3 adults so definitely very heavy. I also filled with CA 91 Octane gas (10% Ethonal) only and had a full tank to eliminate all variables. I checked fuel door every hour or so on-trail and off-trail and there was no evidence of vapor leaking or excessive pressure at all when opening the cap or fuel smell. My engine temp also ranged from 184-215F. I did hear groaning from my Charcoal Canister at 8000', but other than that I would say that my problem solved. If I were to do everything again, the first thing that I would advise addressing first are the fuel lines and making sure that they are all in order. All cooling related stuff is just regular maintenance IMHO, and I would not say that it helped solve my problem. Wrap/protect those lines!!!!

Fixed this line:

Wrapped the lines and installed a heatshield:

Fully loaded:

Saw a cow on the trail:

 

[Sykoslug]

I keep getting this