Several times in this thread you have stated things that I have omitted in my testing; but were things I explicitly did. Either I am not documenting it correctly (I don't think so) or you are not giving it enough attention to absorb what I've done.
Yes, that is why I challenged you to try and pressurize your tank. Even to .5 PSI. I tried and failed. I think it's a valid test. After my mods I was able to pressurize it to 30 psi.
And I have posted an open link that anyone in the world can view my MPG for my vehicle. I have done so many times here I will do it again: LX470 (Lexus LX470) | Fuelly
2MPG on these vehicles is a 15-20% improvement. Please, where else can I find a 15-20% improvement in my MPG on a vehicle with less than $100 in parts and minimal labor?? You are discounting a serious improvement. I plan to drive this vehicle for another 200k at least, do the math.
Not only that but the reduction in fire hazard from open fumes, embarrassment from having a truck that stinks every time you park it, and venting fuel straight into the atmosphere just to breath it into your own lungs.
epa.gov
Exactly where you pen is pointing. I thought I illustrated this very well in my post #364 several pages back: Gas tank building excessive pressure & fuel smell. Dangerous for sure! Why does this happen?
Which brings us back to how you're asking a lot of questions that lead me to think you aren't really paying attention.
Numbered so I can keep track of each topic/point:
1. I have not tried to pressurize per the manual. I don't have a gauge that can faithfully show .5 psi. Can you share what gauge you used to show fractions of 1 psi? I think I'll need to buy something like a bike pump. All i have are pneumatic air tools and gauges that are 0-200 psi gauges. I can't tell a supply pressure of .7 psi from .5 psi.
2. Can you pull the fuelly data into an excel spreadsheet and pull up the std dev? I'm guessing it's at least 1.5-2 MPG which means from a statistical standpoint we'll need to have a lot of post-fix data to tell what the improvement is.
3. I'm not discounting how nice that improvement might be. It's amazing - if true. If you can gain 2MPG for $100 and reduce emissions that would likely be the "mod of the decade on 'mud". The benefit of the proposition doesn't make me less likely to question it - quite the opposite.
4. EPA - you can't just link the epa website, haha. Provide a numeric value for the proper pressure of the 100 tank. Numerical digits and a source.
5. That's an intentional non-sealing joint - it's the air inlet. That's not meant to seal. The diagram shows that area to be non-sealing. The sealing mechanisms for that line are presumably a combination of the upstream air filter (which may contain a check valve), Vent Valve, refueling valve and perhaps other mechanisms not labeled on that diagram. You say you found a leaking component - I say that was never meant to seal and the failure *may* be further upstream in one of those other components that was, IMO, the intended mechanism for preventing outward pressure loss through that line, but very easily allowing air to come into the tank.
*Additionally, if your gauge for step 1 was allowing .7 psi and the tank is only supposed to hold .5 psi, perhaps you were just overpowering the built in pressure controls. I doubt the tank is limited to only .5 psi, but I'm saying we need some specs to say otherwise. We don't seem to have those specs so it's a hard pill to swallow to say the tank must have a failure because it wouldn't hold pressure.