Front Bearing Replacement
- Thread starter hank14
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I've done the procedure on two 100 series in the past month, both in conjunction with new rotors.
I'm a bit OCD, so I thoroughly clean everything.
Wipe all grease out of hub, clean hub in parts washer, let dry.
Keep bearings with the hub they came out of.
Bearing and races wear together, so you should not move a used bearing from one hub to another.
Soak bearings in diesel, then thoroughly clean with brake cleaner, let dry.
Check bearings for wear (best to compare to brand new bearings).
If they aren't Koyo or Timken, I suggest replacing.
Use a bearing packer to pack the bearings (they are cheap...).
I use the grease leftover from the bearing packer to fill the inside of the hub (1/3 to 1/2 full).
I then follow the procedure below, which I believe is the FSM procedure, or pretty close to it.
I've reused all bearings in the last 2 jobs and the Torque specs below have put me between 10 and 11 Lbs for the final preload range for all 4 hubs.
I've read that rigs with more weight / bigger wheel and tire combos should be closer to the 15 Lbs for the final preload.
Note: When you Install the Claw Washer, if the Outer Side is Not Clean (No Grease), your Torque will be Much Higher.
- Install Inner Bearing and Oil Seal. Coat the lip of the Oil Seal with Grease. Use a 3/4" x 8” x 8” piece of clean wood and a hammer to evenly push / drive the new oil seal into place. The Flat Side of the Oil Seal goes up / is what you hammer the wood against.
- Install Axle Hub to Steering Knuckle. It should slide right in and fit squarely
- Install the Outer Bearing. Wipe All Grease off of the Threads of the Steering Knuckle.
- Install the Claw Washer. The Outer Side Must be Clean (No Grease).
- Install the Adjusting Nut. Torque to 43 Ft Lbs.
- Rotate the Axle Hub (Forward Rotation) several times to settle down the bearings.
- Loosen the Adjusting Nut until it can be turned by hand.
*** Retighten the Adjusting Nut. Torque to 15 Ft Lbs.
- Rotate the Axle Hub (Forward Rotation) several times to settle down the bearings.
- Using a Spring Gauge, measure the Preload of one of the Wheel Lugs in the 12 O’clock Position. The Preload should be between 5 and 8 Lbs. Take several measurements, each time Rotating the Axle Hub 1 Full Rotation (Forward).
- If the Preload is Not between 5 and 8 Lbs, adjust the Torque of the Adjusting Nut Accordingly.
- Install Lock Washer and the Locking Nut. Torque to 47 Ft Lbs.
- Rotate the Axle Hub (Forward Rotation) several times to settle down the bearings.
- Using a Spring Gauge, measure the Preload. The Preload should be between 9.5 and 15 lbs. Take several measurements, each time Rotating the Axle Hub 1 Full Rotation (Forward). If not within the specified range, restart procedure at ***, adjusting the Torque in the 1st step accordingly.
- Secure the Locking Nut by bending one of the Lock Washer teeth inward and another tooth outward.
Good luck.
Tom
I'm a bit OCD, so I thoroughly clean everything.
Wipe all grease out of hub, clean hub in parts washer, let dry.
Keep bearings with the hub they came out of.
Bearing and races wear together, so you should not move a used bearing from one hub to another.
Soak bearings in diesel, then thoroughly clean with brake cleaner, let dry.
Check bearings for wear (best to compare to brand new bearings).
If they aren't Koyo or Timken, I suggest replacing.
Use a bearing packer to pack the bearings (they are cheap...).
I use the grease leftover from the bearing packer to fill the inside of the hub (1/3 to 1/2 full).
I then follow the procedure below, which I believe is the FSM procedure, or pretty close to it.
I've reused all bearings in the last 2 jobs and the Torque specs below have put me between 10 and 11 Lbs for the final preload range for all 4 hubs.
I've read that rigs with more weight / bigger wheel and tire combos should be closer to the 15 Lbs for the final preload.
Note: When you Install the Claw Washer, if the Outer Side is Not Clean (No Grease), your Torque will be Much Higher.
- Install Inner Bearing and Oil Seal. Coat the lip of the Oil Seal with Grease. Use a 3/4" x 8” x 8” piece of clean wood and a hammer to evenly push / drive the new oil seal into place. The Flat Side of the Oil Seal goes up / is what you hammer the wood against.
- Install Axle Hub to Steering Knuckle. It should slide right in and fit squarely
- Install the Outer Bearing. Wipe All Grease off of the Threads of the Steering Knuckle.
- Install the Claw Washer. The Outer Side Must be Clean (No Grease).
- Install the Adjusting Nut. Torque to 43 Ft Lbs.
- Rotate the Axle Hub (Forward Rotation) several times to settle down the bearings.
- Loosen the Adjusting Nut until it can be turned by hand.
*** Retighten the Adjusting Nut. Torque to 15 Ft Lbs.
- Rotate the Axle Hub (Forward Rotation) several times to settle down the bearings.
- Using a Spring Gauge, measure the Preload of one of the Wheel Lugs in the 12 O’clock Position. The Preload should be between 5 and 8 Lbs. Take several measurements, each time Rotating the Axle Hub 1 Full Rotation (Forward).
- If the Preload is Not between 5 and 8 Lbs, adjust the Torque of the Adjusting Nut Accordingly.
- Install Lock Washer and the Locking Nut. Torque to 47 Ft Lbs.
- Rotate the Axle Hub (Forward Rotation) several times to settle down the bearings.
- Using a Spring Gauge, measure the Preload. The Preload should be between 9.5 and 15 lbs. Take several measurements, each time Rotating the Axle Hub 1 Full Rotation (Forward). If not within the specified range, restart procedure at ***, adjusting the Torque in the 1st step accordingly.
- Secure the Locking Nut by bending one of the Lock Washer teeth inward and another tooth outward.
Good luck.
Tom
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Thanks Tom, I’m also a little (maybe a lot) OCD and used almost the same steps as you outlined.
I may have had grease on the face of the claw washer tho, causing my higher torque numbers.
But, I’m still not clear on where these bearing resistance (preload) fish scale values are coming from. I don’t see anything in the FSM stating 9.5-15 lbs or the 5-8lbs initial values you mentioned. Where did the 9.5-15 lbs come from? Every video and all the discussion here states that range but I’m not understanding. My OCD is only surpassed by my thick-head.
Appreciate your guidance and insight.
Holy crap - that is wild. My FSM for a 1999 LX has very different numbers.
Trick here; Is to fill cavity to a point, where grease is just over edge of roller bearings. That is so, centrifugal force grease pushes out of hub cavity into roller bearings. To little grease in wheel hub cavity, and centrifugal force pushes/slings grease out of bearings. Which, bearings would then burn up, from lack of grease.
But we also want a small air gap, between knuckles' spindle and the grease pack in cavity. Without this air gap, we hold in & transfer bearings heat, into spindle. Bearing will then run hot.
Note: Keep bearings with their respective races, as they come out of wheel hub. Bearings and race, are match and seat/break-in together. To this end; I mark DS wheel hub, with a single punch mark, next to drilled balance dimples. Which tells me, it's BK1 (DS wheel hub). I keep bearings in container, marked with either #1 (DS) and other #2 (PS).
Note: Make sure, claw washer in good condition. If it is scored/grooved, on one side. Replace, or install scored side out, smooth/good side in against bearing. The key/tab, must be in perfect condition. Protruding out it full length. If claw washers key/tab worn down, it may spin out of spindles key slot. Which will likely, damage spindles threads.
Make very sure. The flat side of seal out. The side of seal with a raise, must be in against large bearing. Drive seal in, until squarely flush with back of wheel hub.
I like to place, small bearing in wheel hub, while on the bench. Then, place my thumbs on bearing, as I hold wheel hub in hands. Place the entire wheel hub assemble, on spindle in one smooth movement, pressing small/outer bearing in with thumbs..
Actually it is better, to have grease on claw washer. Why: It reduce resistance of adjusting nut on it. To much resistance, and it turns claw washer. Putting to much pressure on claw washers tab/key. Which can damage the tab/keep.
Correct typo: 5 to 8 lbs should read 9.5 to 15 lbs. I shoot for 12LB breakaway preload on stock rigs. 15lb on lifted heavy rigs.
I grease lock washer also. Just like the claw washer. This helps reduce resistance, for locking nut. Which can damaged the tab/key, by turning lock washer. Never reuse lock washer. If one must reuse. It must have a perfect tab/key, and we must not re-bend any locking tab.
Final points:
Lube axle bearing & brass bushing. Which will require settling grease, before installing the new hub flange snap ring.
Hook spring scale, on a lug nut stud. That is at top dead center (12 o-clock). Spin wheel hub in direction of travel, until stud at TDC. Never back up/reverse wheel hub, to get a stud to TDC.
Never use a glue/FPIG, on hub flange. Use a good gasket, new best.
Use a medium strength thread sealer, on hub flange studs threads. Or Replace the nuts with OEM, which have a thread sealer in their threads. Torque to 24ft-lbf
Replace hub flange snap ring. With proper size/thickness, so gap under .20mm. Never reuse hub flange snap ring.
Always replace grease cap, with new OEM.
Note: Temperature of grease/bearing/races/spindle will affect preload. Best is above 62F. The lower the temp, the low torque on adjusting nut, to get 12lb breakaway preload. At under ~40F, bearings will end up, way to loose once grease heats up (run on).
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Many thanks 2001LC! I’ve read many of your posts and comments on this procedure alone. Grateful that you don’t get tired of answering questions.
Hello 2001LC,
2 Points of Clarification.
1st Point.
There are 2 Preload Steps, correct?
Initial Preload (After Adjusting Nut is Torqued) and Final Preload (After Locking Nut is Torqued).
Initial Preload should be between 5 and 8 (this one you corrected, which IMO should not have been corrected).
Final Preload should be between 9.5 and 15 (I had stated 8 to 15, which came out of an earlier FSM. I'll update my earlier post).
2nd Point.
Honestly, I disagree with greasing the outside of the claw washer.
IMO, it's the reason why everyone's torquing the adjusting nut so high to get the right Preload values.
Same reason why anti-seize shouldn't be used on a mating surface of a fastener that requires a very specific torque.
Grease, just like anti-seize, lowers the coefficient of friction by an unknown value.
It's much easier to replicate preload and torque values with a non-greased "dry" claw washer.
You're potentially creating higher rotational pressure on the claw washer by torquing it greased to 30+ Ft Lbs vs 15 Ft Lbs dry.
You'll have a similar issue if there's grease on the lock washer and lock nut.
If the FSM says the torque value should be 47 Ft Lbs, and the FSM assumes No Grease, and you grease the surface and torque the lock nut to 47 Ft Lbs, it is putting an additional unknown value of torque above 47 Ft Lbs on everything it touches (mating surface and threads).
This is the reason why sometimes fasters get broken or threads get stripped when using anti-seize and not reducing torque.
To each their own, by I would not grease the outside of the claw washer, either nut, or the lock washer.
Notes: I don't reuse claw washers or lock washers.
If either nut is damaged (often a deep nick by someone using a chisel to remove), I replace it.
I check both nuts for minor damage / burrs and use a file if needed to clean them up.
I appreciate the conversation.
Tom
2 Points of Clarification.
1st Point.
There are 2 Preload Steps, correct?
Initial Preload (After Adjusting Nut is Torqued) and Final Preload (After Locking Nut is Torqued).
Initial Preload should be between 5 and 8 (this one you corrected, which IMO should not have been corrected).
Final Preload should be between 9.5 and 15 (I had stated 8 to 15, which came out of an earlier FSM. I'll update my earlier post).
2nd Point.
Honestly, I disagree with greasing the outside of the claw washer.
IMO, it's the reason why everyone's torquing the adjusting nut so high to get the right Preload values.
Same reason why anti-seize shouldn't be used on a mating surface of a fastener that requires a very specific torque.
Grease, just like anti-seize, lowers the coefficient of friction by an unknown value.
It's much easier to replicate preload and torque values with a non-greased "dry" claw washer.
You're potentially creating higher rotational pressure on the claw washer by torquing it greased to 30+ Ft Lbs vs 15 Ft Lbs dry.
You'll have a similar issue if there's grease on the lock washer and lock nut.
If the FSM says the torque value should be 47 Ft Lbs, and the FSM assumes No Grease, and you grease the surface and torque the lock nut to 47 Ft Lbs, it is putting an additional unknown value of torque above 47 Ft Lbs on everything it touches (mating surface and threads).
This is the reason why sometimes fasters get broken or threads get stripped when using anti-seize and not reducing torque.
To each their own, by I would not grease the outside of the claw washer, either nut, or the lock washer.
Notes: I don't reuse claw washers or lock washers.
If either nut is damaged (often a deep nick by someone using a chisel to remove), I replace it.
I check both nuts for minor damage / burrs and use a file if needed to clean them up.
I appreciate the conversation.
Tom
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Adjusting preload (pull on fish scale) is done with by the amount of torque we put on adjusting nut. The adjusting nut creates pressure on claw washer. Which claw washer transfers, adjusting nut torque/force/pressure to bearings.
The goal is a starting preload of 9.5 to 15lb on spring scale. Starting means, amount of pull to start wheel hub to turn/move, as we pull on spring scale from a stud at TDC (12 o'clock).
After getting our target preload, by tightening adjusting nut. We installing locking washer and nut. Then torque lock nut to 47ft-lbf. We then do a final "check" of preload. To check, that preload has not gone over 15lb of pull on spring scale. Which in cases of a torque under 47ft-lbf on adjusting nut. We will see, preload go higher. If preload on final check is not within the specified value. We're instructed to readjust preload, with adjusting nut.
Nowhere that I've read, in FSM. Does the FSM recommend a starting preload of 5 to 8lb or a starting torque on adjusting nut of 15ft-lbf.
What confuses most, (see 2, D) is the starting torque on adjusting nut, of only 38 to 57 INCH-lbf., after settle down the bearing (Grease in bearings). Which is just a starting point, for adjusting nut.
See 3, d, Hint: Adjust it again with adjusting nut.
Also note: It states new hub flange nuts. Why new? They have a sealer in the threads. If our old nuts are still good (thread not worn out, (loose fit)) we can reuse hub flange nuts. But we need a medium thread sealer (I use blue). We do not need to lower torque of 24fl-lbf for lube on thread, since factory has already taken lubed threads into consideration in their torque spec.
We must remember here. Torque on adjusting nut, is not the goal. Starting Preload of wheel hub is the goal.
Where is is true. Lubing thread or surfaces of nuts or bolt heads contacts. We must reduce torque to compensate for reduced fiction. When no lube is called for in the spec. But again, final torque of adjusting nut is not the goal nor stated in FSM. We keep tightening adjusting nut, to whatever torque/pressure it takes on claw washer/bearings, to get to our preload goal.
I once became concerned. That a torque of 70ft or 80-lbf + on adjusting nut, might damage thread of adjusting nut or spindle. Which I voiced that concern, in the forum. Someone (engineer) then, did the math. He said; it would take over 180ft-lbf (IIRC) to damage the thread. At 80ft-lbf, with surface greased. We be somewhere around 120ft-lbf actual torque.
Why lube claw and lock washer. As I stated earlier. To reduce chance of washer spins, out of keep. Which will result in spindle thread damage.
After doing hundreds of wheel bearing service since 2003 on 100 series. I've seen the damage caused, by others doing service before me. One of those is, spun claw and or lock washer. Where it's key has come out of it slot/keep in spindle. This damages threads on spindle. It happens mostly from reusing a bad claw washer, most any used lock washer or if adjust nut fiction grabs and turns washer.
Like these spindle threads seen here:
This first pictures was taken. After, I started grinding on claw washer to remove tab/key. Which wedged on spindle threads. So, to not damage threads more than they were, already
I once, spent 5 hour restoring spindle threads. With thread restore file and mini files. Due to keep damaging threads. I've since tooled up, to restore threads in minutes. A Bad Ass thread die and holder.
I should also note: Both adjusting nut and lock nut. We want to orient flat side in. 98- 2002 nuts, are hard to tell, which is flat side. Around 2003 and new OEM nuts we buy today. Flat side is very notable.
98-02 nuts.
This is true, that final value will be over 47ft-lbf. But not so much as to damage threads. Also FSM has us check preload, after torque. Which again, preload is the goal. I'll add:
- I found the guys at Slee, as I come behind their work often. They were over torqueing lock nut. Doing so, even when bearing where to point, they had some play after 30K plus miles later. The lock nut was still taught on adjusting nut. Most I see (not slee), lock nuts are loose!
- The FSM does not state wipe grease from any of these surfaces not even spindle threads. nor avoid get grease on them. Which one will almost get grease on threads and surface, during assembly.
- The math shows, even at 47ft-lbf on a lubed locking washer & nut threads. We not even hit 100ft-lbf.
- After doing hundreds of wheel bearing service, many my second, third even fourth time on same vehicle. My wheel bearings services, stay tighter for longer, and spindle & nut threads, are still in prefect condition as are the claw washers.
I've seen some of your other post. You sound like you do better work than most any shop. Kudos to you!
DIDO
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BTW
When you look in that first spindle pictured above. Notice the brown grease inside spindle. Brown means water contamination. Which was due to re-using a grease cap, and or excessive snap ring gap.
When you look in that first spindle pictured above. Notice the brown grease inside spindle. Brown means water contamination. Which was due to re-using a grease cap, and or excessive snap ring gap.
The goal is a starting preload of 9.5 to 15 pounds after the adjusting nut has been torqued, lock washer installed, and lock nut has been torqued.
On this I believe most of us agree.
Per Toyota, the torque setting for the lock nut is 47 ft lbs.
Therefore, the only adjustment to be made is to the torque of the adjusting nut.
You have 4 options.
1. Torque both adjusting nut and lock nut with grease.
2. Torque the adjusting nut with grease and the lock nut without grease.
3. Torque the adjusting nut without grease and the lock nut with grease.
4. Torque both adjusting nut and lock nut without grease.
We're going to assume that options 2 and 3 are not really viable options. If there's grease on the adjusting nut, there's most likely grease on the lock nut.
Toyota's FSM says absolutely nothing about greasing either the adjusting nut or the lock nut.
I'm going to trust the Toyota's engineers knew what they were doing.
They tell us when to use thread locker, give us specific torque specs, etc.
There's no chance they would've missed this, especially since they updated the starting preload range in the FSM for later Land Cruisers.
Therefore, per the Toyota FSM, neither nut should be greased.
I've been working on cars for 40+ years.
I also have an engineering degree from a top 10 engineering school, so yes, I know what I'm talking about.
What every good mechanic knows in the North East is how Anti Seize affects torque.
It's the main reason why manufacturers of spark plugs tell you not to use Anti Seize.
Depending on the Anti Seize, torque is affected by anywhere from 15 to 40 percent.
Due to salt, North East mechanics use Anti Seize is certain situations, and good ones know how to use it (typically on threads, not on mating surfaces).
NLGI2 grease has a lower coefficient of friction than Anti Seize.
Therefore, torque may be affected by more than 40% if using NLGI2 grease.
40%+ is a lot.
Many have been accidentally (or on purpose) greasing the outside of the claw washer / adjusting nut mating surface (and also the lock nut) and therefore having to add a lot of extra torque to the adjusting nut in order to get the preload correct.
The low coefficient of friction of the grease is the reason you have to add so much more torque.
IMO, there is no upside and plenty of downside to greasing the claw washer / adjusting nut.
It takes some effort to make sure the outside of the claw washer is dry / has no grease, but the effort is worth it.
In addition, if the lock nut is greased, and you are setting your torque wrench to 47 ft lbs per the FSM, you are over torquing that nut as well.
Conveniently, Toyota over engineered the spindle threads.
Therefore, even though you've added a lot of extra torque, the spindle has been able to handle it.
Will your spindle threads be able to handle it after 350k miles and many instances of over-torquing?
Maybe.
Maybe not.
I've tried this both ways.
I've seen how much additional torque needed to be applied to the adjusting nut, if it's greased, in order to get the preload correct.
I can get in the 9.5 to 15 pound range with 15 ft lbs of torque on a dry adjusting nut.
Last time I greased the adjusting nut (or more accurately didn't clean off the outside of a greasy claw washer) it took 36 fl lbs of torque to get to 9.5+ pounds.
The goal is getting to the starting preload of 9.5 to 15 pounds.
You now have 2 options to get there.
And if you've read this far, you have enough knowledge to make an education decision on which method to use.
Note: At a bare minimum, you should replace the following per side with OEM (cheap insurance):
- Oil Seal (90311-70011)
- Claw Washer (90214-42030)
- Locking Washer (90215-42025)
- Hub Flange Gasket (43422-60070)
- Snap Ring [6 Sizes are Available]
90520-31005 - T2.8
90520-31006 - T2.6 C [3rd Most Likely]
90520-31007 - T2.4 D [Most Likely Size Needed]
90520-31008 - T2.2 E [2nd Most Likely]
90520-31009 - T2.0
90520-31010 – T1.8
Happy wrenching.
Tom
On this I believe most of us agree.
Per Toyota, the torque setting for the lock nut is 47 ft lbs.
Therefore, the only adjustment to be made is to the torque of the adjusting nut.
You have 4 options.
1. Torque both adjusting nut and lock nut with grease.
2. Torque the adjusting nut with grease and the lock nut without grease.
3. Torque the adjusting nut without grease and the lock nut with grease.
4. Torque both adjusting nut and lock nut without grease.
We're going to assume that options 2 and 3 are not really viable options. If there's grease on the adjusting nut, there's most likely grease on the lock nut.
Toyota's FSM says absolutely nothing about greasing either the adjusting nut or the lock nut.
I'm going to trust the Toyota's engineers knew what they were doing.
They tell us when to use thread locker, give us specific torque specs, etc.
There's no chance they would've missed this, especially since they updated the starting preload range in the FSM for later Land Cruisers.
Therefore, per the Toyota FSM, neither nut should be greased.
I've been working on cars for 40+ years.
I also have an engineering degree from a top 10 engineering school, so yes, I know what I'm talking about.
What every good mechanic knows in the North East is how Anti Seize affects torque.
It's the main reason why manufacturers of spark plugs tell you not to use Anti Seize.
Depending on the Anti Seize, torque is affected by anywhere from 15 to 40 percent.
Due to salt, North East mechanics use Anti Seize is certain situations, and good ones know how to use it (typically on threads, not on mating surfaces).
NLGI2 grease has a lower coefficient of friction than Anti Seize.
Therefore, torque may be affected by more than 40% if using NLGI2 grease.
40%+ is a lot.
Many have been accidentally (or on purpose) greasing the outside of the claw washer / adjusting nut mating surface (and also the lock nut) and therefore having to add a lot of extra torque to the adjusting nut in order to get the preload correct.
The low coefficient of friction of the grease is the reason you have to add so much more torque.
IMO, there is no upside and plenty of downside to greasing the claw washer / adjusting nut.
It takes some effort to make sure the outside of the claw washer is dry / has no grease, but the effort is worth it.
In addition, if the lock nut is greased, and you are setting your torque wrench to 47 ft lbs per the FSM, you are over torquing that nut as well.
Conveniently, Toyota over engineered the spindle threads.
Therefore, even though you've added a lot of extra torque, the spindle has been able to handle it.
Will your spindle threads be able to handle it after 350k miles and many instances of over-torquing?
Maybe.
Maybe not.
I've tried this both ways.
I've seen how much additional torque needed to be applied to the adjusting nut, if it's greased, in order to get the preload correct.
I can get in the 9.5 to 15 pound range with 15 ft lbs of torque on a dry adjusting nut.
Last time I greased the adjusting nut (or more accurately didn't clean off the outside of a greasy claw washer) it took 36 fl lbs of torque to get to 9.5+ pounds.
The goal is getting to the starting preload of 9.5 to 15 pounds.
You now have 2 options to get there.
And if you've read this far, you have enough knowledge to make an education decision on which method to use.
Note: At a bare minimum, you should replace the following per side with OEM (cheap insurance):
- Oil Seal (90311-70011)
- Claw Washer (90214-42030)
- Locking Washer (90215-42025)
- Hub Flange Gasket (43422-60070)
- Snap Ring [6 Sizes are Available]
90520-31005 - T2.8
90520-31006 - T2.6 C [3rd Most Likely]
90520-31007 - T2.4 D [Most Likely Size Needed]
90520-31008 - T2.2 E [2nd Most Likely]
90520-31009 - T2.0
90520-31010 – T1.8
Happy wrenching.
Tom
Engineer, cool. Please tell us, What does, the engineering indicate:
Maximum torque spindle threads, can handle?
Maximum torque spindle nut threads, can handle?
I lube washers, simple to reduce friction from nut. Which, if to much friction on washer. Washer spins, pressing key tab into spindle groove. This often leads to metal of tab, being deposited (imbedded) into spindle threads. Then as we remove spindle nut, threads become damaged from imbedded metal stuck in threads. Nuts easy & cheap to replace. Spindle/knuckle, not so much.
Here pic of damage lock washer key tab. I find the key tabs of lock washer, damaged a bit too often. The metal torn from tab, often end up in threads between nut and spindle. Then we've and issue to deal with. Of repairing threads on spindle and replace the nut.
We want to see spindle key tab. As seen in this used lock washer, after lock nut torqued to 47ft-lbf wet (lubed).
So let's use a high percentage change from torque wrench reading. Say, 50% over torque reading of wrench, when lock washer lubed. Then 47ft-lbf lubed, would be ~70.5ft-lbf (47 x 1.50) compared to dry.
Many including myself. Have reported, getting adjusting nut to 70ft-lbf of torque or more. To reach ~12.5 to 15ft-lbf. None have ever reported damage, to threads, spindle or any wheel bearing component.
We are instructed, pre FSM. To use adjusting nut, to achieve a target BWPL.
That is to say: "Increase clamping pressure on bearings, until target BWPL is reached. The adjusting nut, is used to create this pressure, on claw washer. Which pressure transfer through bearings, to knuckle (back side of spindle). Clamping wheel hub bearing ASSY, between claw washer & knuckle.
We keep tightening adjusting nut, to whatever amount of pressure on claw washer is needed, to get target BWPL. FSM does not gives us a limit on adjusting nut torque. Fact is; We don't need a torque wrench to set BWPL, just pull (fish) scale.
In my experience. I find that when; Wheel bearing are in very good condition, well broken-in, supper clean and properly packed with grease. I will routinely get 70ft-lbf to 80ft-lbf torque wrench reading on adjusting nut.
Whether, there's any grease on claw washer. Has no effect on BWPL, when adjusted by the adjusting nut. It simply reduce friction between nut & washer.
Is this a typo?
"additional torque needed" "if it's greased". So your talking about, reading on torque wrench.
Bottom line. Our bearings like it tight. Tighter the better. However, you get there, is good.
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I just did my first wheel bearing work on my car and I went with new OEM bearings as I didn’t know if the PO had replaced them previously with aftermarket or not. I lightly greased the claw washer and preload nuts. I torqued to 50, and I was surprised to read 11-12 on the fish scale. I torqued the lock nut to 48 and final preload was 13-14. I checked a bunch of times pulling from 12 o clock in the direction of travel. I hope the system doesn’t loosen up in short order. I was really expecting to need like 70+ to get the 13 pounds force on the fish scale that I was looking for.
With new OEM bearings. ~ 50ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut, to get a BWPL of 11lbf. Is in expected range.
Next wheel bearing service in 30K miles. You'll see higher torque on adjusting nut. As torque increases on adjusting nut. You'll see less increase in BWPL, after lock nut torqued.
Next wheel bearing service in 30K miles. You'll see higher torque on adjusting nut. As torque increases on adjusting nut. You'll see less increase in BWPL, after lock nut torqued.