Builds Fly By Night

scrapdaddy

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What's your thoughts on the receiver tube and interference with the gas tank. With my big azz tank, I didn't have any room there.
 

RUSH55

 
 
 
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I trimmed the excess that goes through the back down to just an inch. Whatever hitches I use might have to be custom trimmed just for the Cruiser. The future tank is gonna have to be built with the new rear crossmember in mind - maybe just a few inches short of maximum space availability. But I’m pretty sure, like you, I’m gonna have to chuck the bolt-on crossmember that chained up the OEM spare tire. Sucks cause I was using that crossmember to hold my air tank.
Also thinking of the future rear bumper and how it’s going to shape around the new receiver - not many running around set up like that. Most Cruiser bumpers have the receiver going through them. Both of my other homebrew bumpers were that way.
BTW, a quick bit of searching revealed that a good friend of the 55 group here on Mud, Trail Tailor, makes a rear inner c-channel replacement kit for FJ60’s. Not sure how those measure out against an FJ55. The replacement channels are 3/16” thick and are intended to be bolted to the frame.
Gonna get mine off and survey the damage before making any decisions. If I need to build new ones, I happen to know a guy.
 

RUSH55

 
 
 
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😉

Another thing... (Pig on the brain..)
Thinking ahead to the FJ60 axles - I made some new low-profile perches to swap out with the OEM’s when going together. Afterwards I realized that all the OEM perch heights are based off the right front perch, as it sits halfway on the radius of the banjo of the diff housing. To go with the low-pro idea would involve cutting a pie slice out of that radius and recessing some material and then placing the perch on that. Not sure how much all of that is worth reducing the perch height by 1/2” - 3/4”.(?)
Trying to do some searches on whether anyone has done that has so far not answered my question, but has dug up a lot of what was going on back in the day when guys were doing 60 axle swaps into 40’s which were kind of a turn-off and why I didn’t embark on the mission years ago. The first method was to set the axle perches to the 40 or 55 springs, which involved some God-awful notching and grinder work on the diff housing (this was before the plate mod). Or the other method was to line up the passenger side perch and spring, relocate the driver’s side spring perch (or outboard the driver side spring and shackle hangers ~3”), cut the knuckle in the passenger side and add a 3” spacer and then source a long side axle shaft. Mainly this was all done to keep the diff housing in the original location. I guess outboarding 1-1/2” on each side must have come later, or was maybe dismissed because this places the diff housing 1-1/2” closer under the frame.
These pics from SLOW 71 downplay that concern for me to pretty much nothing. Imagining the path of travel of the diff housing as the passenger side wheel climbs over an obstacle, the diff actually arcs away from the frame slightly as the driver side wheel drops. The only possible way there could ever be any interference would be a sky-high jump where both wheels went slamming upwards, bottoming out the suspension on both sides equally. Maybe then the diff would glance off the frame.

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scrapdaddy

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On the SLOW 71 the bump stops are keeping anything from making contact, but I never thought I had an issue with the pumpkin getting close to the frame.
 

scrapdaddy

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Yeah, I've been playing with them since I built it. My main concern was the oil pan and the front u joint tapping. I don't have much up travel, but it seems to be enough for what we do.
 
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scrapdaddy

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No, stock placement. Let me see if I can get a good picture, be right back......

Ok, the driver's side for some reason is close to center. The pass. side could of used a little out boarding, but seems to make contact and work. Please overlook the dirty pictures...
Drivers....
IMG_3985.JPG


Pass. side....
IMG_3984.JPG
 
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RUSH55

 
 
 
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Howdy!👋
Here’s a comparison pic between an LC aftermarket poly replacement on the left, and Ruff Stuff’s bushing stock on the right.
Ruff Stuff sells their bushed DOM sleeves with an ID bolt sleeve for either a 1/2” or 9/16” bolt. Without the inner sleeve the bushing’s ID is 3/4”. The greasable shackle bolts which came with the new shackles I picked up from CCOT are 18mm. It’s a loose fit. Been scouring the web for something to possibly use as a sleeve to tighten the fit a little bit. What I don’t really know is if 18mm ID, 20mm OD, DOM tubing would be too much of an interference fit for an 18mm bolt. I’m going out on a limb and guessing, yes, it would be. So the next possibility would be 19mm ID, 22mm OD DOM. A nice fit bolt to sleeve, and a possible need for boring the bushings a bit to get the sleeve in.
Another option is to refit for 3/4” bolts. Possibly find a machinist to drill a set out, bore out the bolt holes in the shackle and everything else.
ATM, planning on doing absolutely nothing.

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Joined
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Howdy!👋
Here’s a comparison pic between an LC aftermarket poly replacement on the left, and Ruff Stuff’s bushing stock on the right.
Ruff Stuff sells their bushed DOM sleeves with an ID bolt sleeve for either a 1/2” or 9/16” bolt. Without the inner sleeve the bushing’s ID is 3/4”. The greasable shackle bolts which came with the new shackles I picked up from CCOT are 18mm. It’s a loose fit. Been scouring the web for something to possibly use as a sleeve to tighten the fit a little bit. What I don’t really know is if 18mm ID, 20mm OD, DOM tubing would be too much of an interference fit for an 18mm bolt. I’m going out on a limb and guessing, yes, it would be. So the next possibility would be 19mm ID, 22mm OD DOM. A nice fit bolt to sleeve, and a possible need for boring the bushings a bit to get the sleeve in.
Another option is to refit for 3/4” bolts. Possibly find a machinist to drill a set out, bore out the bolt holes in the shackle and everything else.
ATM, planning on doing absolutely nothing.

View attachment 2249281
40/55 vs 60 series Toyota bushings are all different sizes I think, I know the OD on the 60 series bushings I got won’t fit the stock hangers in rear. Check on 60 series sizes?
 

RUSH55

 
 
 
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Found this finally. Was gonna drop the name-bomb even before finding this, and sure enough, the guy delivered already!
Thanks @cruiseroutfit !🍻

 

cruiseroutfit

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Found this finally. Was gonna drop the name-bomb even before finding this, and sure enough, the guy delivered already!
Thanks @cruiseroutfit !🍻

Happy that is still helpful. We still stock all of those bushings and even have more variants both different brands and different sizes too!
 

RUSH55

 
 
 
Joined
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Thank you Kurt!

And now this just in...
We interrupt your media deluge of the Chinese Wuhan Province Covid 19 plague of Biblical proportions for this important announcement....

Dustin “RUSH55” Fitch of Cottonwood, AZ has experienced a game changer....

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We now return you to your regularly scheduled deluge...
 
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RUSH55

 
 
 
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So the answer to the great bushing dilemma is 75 series bushings. As stated by Kurt in the above linked 2009 thread, 75 series rear bushings have an ID of 18mm, and an OD of 40 mm which equates out to 1.57”, barely a touch over the 1.5” ID of Ruff Stuff’s DOM bushing sleeve. It’s like it was meant to be. Life can now continue on a forward path.
 
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RUSH55

 
 
 
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Thanks Ron! Right tools. Am fortunate enough to be able to borrow this welder from a good friend. Gotta try to get as much knocked out as possible over the next couple weeks so I can get it back to him.
 
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