FJ62 - AC Question (1 Viewer)

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Questions.....
Is that part of the evaporator unit...or is that accessible once the evap is out? Is that the flapper door for Fresh and Recirc air? What did you use to rehab the flat foam surfaces?

Haha, theres a few different AC threads going on (including my own) and I keep forgetting which is which. Think it was you or @jawjatek that posted the weatherstripping sourced at Home Depot in another thread.

What about the flat foam?
So the first photo is the heater core box, those flaps are the blend doors that direct air to defrost, upper and lower vents, as well as heat or no heat (Heater box can only come out after the evap box and taking a lot of the dash apart). The second photo is of the blower box and those flaps do control the fresh air or re-circ (The blower box can come out after the evap box, not before). There are no blend doors in the evap box. I hunted around for a while the perfect foam match to the factory blend door/flapper is a polyester open cell foam, I found it as acoustical foam at a foam shop. 12"x4' cost me $3. 1/4" thick was about perfect. I had to thin it out (by shaving) at some of the pivot points but other than that it provides a perfect seal and is besides the color looks the exact same as factory.
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Sorry to hijack the thread. I will start a more comprehensive one.

Back to the thread at hand. If you don't have blockage at the intake, and the motor is running strong, and you doing have a major leak at one of the duct joints then I am going to guess a block in the EVAP. Does airflow change if you switch it to heat or cool air (that way would test the heater core for air blockage).
 
Great info, thank you. Not a hijack at all, IMO....its all relevant good information. Now that I think about it, pretty sure Onur detailed the air duct foam rehab in his What's a parts guy to do thread.
 
Did you confirm that the cable controlling the recirc flaps was connected? If it wasn't, maybe check the other control cables as well?
 
I would first look at the cable attachments on the blower box and heater box first before taking out the control panel to look at that end of the cable attachment. I can take pics later of the attachment points on the heater box. The blower box connection was posted in a pic a few posts back. You can see it if you look up under the dash just above where the blower box and AC evap box meet.
 
Here is the cable that attaches to the flap that controls air going to the heater core or not. You can see this attachment point if you look under the box in front of the transfer case shifter
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Hey All,

I just wanted to share the results. The fan near the passengers feet was indeed wired incorrectly! Now she is blowing like a walk-in refrigerator.

Having said that... does anyone know what could be causing this noise? (VIDEO) It only happens when the AC is on and seems to be tied to when I press the accelerator. Thanks in advance!

 
Classic sound of loose/old/tired belt that slips until it gets hot (from slipping) and then grips. Replace the belt and test the tensioners for smooth operation.
 
The left-most one (as you face the engine) that runs the A/C compressor. It's down low, behind the rest, hard to see, etc. Look for shinyness on the belt surface or other signs of distress.

When you step on the accelerator, the engine revs faster than the belt (in its current condition) can transmit power to the A/C. Recall that A/C systems draw several horsepower, so they put quite a load on the belt. Good cheap belts available at Rockauto.com - try to get Bando, Mitsuboshi, Gates, or Dayco premium brand.
 
Yes, but if you've never changed a fan belt, you're in for a fairly difficult job, due to access issues. Whatever you do, change all 3 belts at the same time. Get the FSM, be patient - this will take several hours.
 

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