I still see them
Builds Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread (30 Viewers)
- Thread starter jcardona1
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Is there a rumor going around that you are going 40"s or did I just start it?
- Thread starter
- #2,223
I almost did when Pitbull had the 50% off sale the day after the election. Was trying to find a local guy so we could qualify for free shipping. By the time I found someone the sale was over. Maybe Pitbull will have another sale if Trump gets reelected
2fpower
SILVER Star
I did pull the trigger; however, tires have not showed up yet.
Bumping Jose's thread. What size?
2fpower
SILVER Star
39.5" Still not ready yet. They replied on facebook that orders are still being filled.
At this rate, Trump will be impeached before they show up.
At this rate, Trump will be impeached before they show up.
Lol39.5" Still not ready yet. They replied on facebook that orders are still being filled.
At this rate, Trump will be impeached before they show up.
- Thread starter
- #2,228
Adding a new project to the list of projects that will probably never get done! Picked up a full set of doors for $100 (no glass, no interior panels, no mirrors or motors). Perfect to chop up. This is the line I'm picturing. Want to keep the exterior door handle which will also serve as an armrest. Coming summer '19 (maybe).
2fpower
SILVER Star
Awesome... you will love them. some things you need to think about are:
cupholders. Really come in handy for sunscreen, drinks, etc. I used some from ebay made for a boat, make sure they have drain hole.
inner storage for trash. I made up some inner panels.
Height of your armrest. I found that I needed mine low as possible; however I am adding a leather covered armrest to keep from getting too hot to the top. The trick here is that your door mechanism has a cam that goes up when you open the door. My point is that you need about 1/2 above the door handle at a minimum.
Dont forget to get waterproof door speakers, as you will still need music. I picked up an extra wiring haness so I can swap doors and just plug them in.
If your going to use OEM mirrors, you will also want the harness to be able to use them. I think they are damage magnets, so not my first choice.
Why keep the top of the door frame? you thinking about making snap in covers?
cupholders. Really come in handy for sunscreen, drinks, etc. I used some from ebay made for a boat, make sure they have drain hole.
inner storage for trash. I made up some inner panels.
Height of your armrest. I found that I needed mine low as possible; however I am adding a leather covered armrest to keep from getting too hot to the top. The trick here is that your door mechanism has a cam that goes up when you open the door. My point is that you need about 1/2 above the door handle at a minimum.
Dont forget to get waterproof door speakers, as you will still need music. I picked up an extra wiring haness so I can swap doors and just plug them in.
If your going to use OEM mirrors, you will also want the harness to be able to use them. I think they are damage magnets, so not my first choice.
Why keep the top of the door frame? you thinking about making snap in covers?
- Thread starter
- #2,230
Thanks for the tips! Do you have photos of how you finished the inside of the door? I don't think you thread showed the inside. Regarding the top frames, aesthetics mostly so that it covers the inner channels. And I think it would add a bit of rigidity to the overall door. Definitely want to add some aftermarket mirrors, I already broke my OEM mirrors. Some other designs I drew up, I'm kinda liking #3
1.
2.
3.
4.
2fpower
SILVER Star
A few items. Look inside the door and you will see the side protection tube. I would stop your cut there, so you keep it. Mine went too low, so I had to remove, or lower it.
The actual capping of the door opening, (I used 16 gauge I think) gave it rigidity, no need for the top of the frame. We stand on the doors quite a bit, so I can tell you the cap gives it strength.
Remember there is a second reason for the dropped center section, and that is so you can much easier see your front driver tire line. I don't think #3 is a good option for that point.
Foo is in storage for winter; however when I get it out, I will take pics.
The actual capping of the door opening, (I used 16 gauge I think) gave it rigidity, no need for the top of the frame. We stand on the doors quite a bit, so I can tell you the cap gives it strength.
Remember there is a second reason for the dropped center section, and that is so you can much easier see your front driver tire line. I don't think #3 is a good option for that point.
Foo is in storage for winter; however when I get it out, I will take pics.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
If there aren't going to be windows in these I'd ditch the window rail hoop.
Or cut it off and put some clips in it and pop it in place so that it still gives the rig a finished look while not being connected to the door.
Or cut it off and put some clips in it and pop it in place so that it still gives the rig a finished look while not being connected to the door.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
I did this. It's about as low as you can go and still use the factory outside handle and leave the crash bar in the door. I reworked the inside handle so I didn't have to reach outside to open the door. They're cool I guess - lower would be better but the crash bar really helps stiffen things up.
Brian
Brian
2fpower
SILVER Star
Found these.... last one gives you a good idea of height for your arm rest.
- Thread starter
- #2,235
So there is definitely no crash bar/tube inside my doors. I wonder if these were added after a certain year. I believe these are from a very early model 80.
Won't be windows in them, but I am still keeping my original doors so I can swap back in for winter. So I can't really attach the rail hoop to the cab, although that is a good idea to give it a finished look.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
As long as the paint/ monstaliner has a clean finish between colors it will look fine without the rail hoop. I was just thinking of mine and how I finished my monstaliner in that area
Also was wondering what this crash bar was....... my doors don't have them......
2fpower
SILVER Star
As long as the paint/ monstaliner has a clean finish between colors it will look fine without the rail hoop. I was just thinking of mine and how I finished my monstaliner in that area
Also was wondering what this crash bar was....... my doors don't have them......
Side impact rules in USA made them put a bar inside, actually pretty heavy DOM tubing maybe 1 1/4 size.
Mine are cut out as I dipped too low, and they are still super stiff. As in any half door situation, be sure to weld them on the car in the actual door they go into.
2fpower
SILVER Star
JohnnyOshow22
KK0TEQ
I think the crash bar started in 95
so many good ideas in this thread!
