Builds Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread (3 Viewers)

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Damn him and damn you because I wanted that! Maybe this is because I wouldn't take his sway bar? :lol:
Im still using the wishbone and too lazy to make another
 
Im still using the wishbone and too lazy to make another

Yep, I just drew up a replacement last night, now I just need to start getting materials.

When i do hit my rear frame rails i am never hung up on them. Imo theres no reason to optimize that area further

Agree. I've never gotten hung up on the rear of the truck, I've always gotten hung up on the middle.
 
I think the crash bar started in 95
I just finished the complete disassembly of an 80 with a March 1994 production date and it had the crash bar.
 
I think it's time for the "BOB".

I know you've resisted it for years, but that's what you're REALLY talking about here.

Shorten/remove the rear windows and move the tailgate forward 18" so the rear tires are actually exposed beyond the plane of the rear of the body. That way your exit angle is 90°.

Do the same on the front and move the radiator to the top of the hood.

I think by the time we're done here, most would call it a............Truggy........
 
I think it's time for the "BOB".

I know you've resisted it for years, but that's what you're REALLY talking about here.

Shorten/remove the rear windows and move the tailgate forward 18" so the rear tires are actually exposed beyond the plane of the rear of the body. That way your exit angle is 90°.

Do the same on the front and move the radiator to the top of the hood.

I think by the time we're done here, most would call it a............Truggy........

Ugly
 
Choped just like mine :)
Keep updating your work man !!
 
@jcardona1 what prep doc you do to paint the headlights and bumper ?

Here is what I do when painting any surface with spray paint:

  • If the surface has been previously painted/finished or has rust, I will sand/scuff the surface to give the paint something to adhere to.

  • If surface is bare and has no paint or coating, I will use primer.

  • For plastics, I will use an adhesion promoter after the primer if it is something that will get lots of abuse.

  • Paint with multiple heavy coats, about 10min apart. I am partial to Rustoleum paint, rarely use anything else.

  • If it's something that will get lots of abuse, I will apply clear coat. Clear coat must be applied within 10min of the final paint coat. Otherwise you need to wait about 2 days for the paint to cure. If you apply after the paint has dried but before it has cured, the clear coat will react with the paint and will cause it to crinkle up.

  • Paint and clear coat will be fresh for several days so be careful with it. Over the next few weeks it will harden and become pretty durable.
 
Here is what I do when painting any surface with spray paint:

  • If the surface has been previously painted/finished or has rust, I will sand/scuff the surface to give the paint something to adhere to.

  • If surface is bare and has no paint or coating, I will use primer.

  • For plastics, I will use an adhesion promoter after the primer if it is something that will get lots of abuse.

  • Paint with multiple heavy coats, about 10min apart. I am partial to Rustoleum paint, rarely use anything else.

  • If it's something that will get lots of abuse, I will apply clear coat. Clear coat must be applied within 10min of the final paint coat. Otherwise you need to wait about 2 days for the paint to cure. If you apply after the paint has dried but before it has cured, the clear coat will react with the paint and will cause it to crinkle up.

  • Paint and clear coat will be fresh for several days so be careful with it. Over the next few weeks it will harden and become pretty durable.

Thank you @jcardona1 ! :)
 
Here is what I do when painting any surface with spray paint:

  • If the surface has been previously painted/finished or has rust, I will sand/scuff the surface to give the paint something to adhere to.

  • If surface is bare and has no paint or coating, I will use primer.

  • For plastics, I will use an adhesion promoter after the primer if it is something that will get lots of abuse.

  • Paint with multiple heavy coats, about 10min apart. I am partial to Rustoleum paint, rarely use anything else.

  • If it's something that will get lots of abuse, I will apply clear coat. Clear coat must be applied within 10min of the final paint coat. Otherwise you need to wait about 2 days for the paint to cure. If you apply after the paint has dried but before it has cured, the clear coat will react with the paint and will cause it to crinkle up.

  • Paint and clear coat will be fresh for several days so be careful with it. Over the next few weeks it will harden and become pretty durable.
I've done pretty much the same thing on all my parts. The only difference is adding clear to make it more durable.
 
Jose, don't know if you have them posted already, I searched through here and couldn't find them, but can you post up length measurements of your front links and panhard? And what is your current ground-to-frame measurement? Those would be awesome if it's not too much trouble.

Bump...
 

Sorry was out of town for work, just got home last night so I could take measurements. Figures are bolt center-to-bolt center.

Lower links: 34.5"
Panhard: 35.5"
 
Sorry was out of town for work, just got home last night so I could take measurements. Figures are bolt center-to-bolt center.

Lower links: 34.5"
Panhard: 35.5"

No worries! What about your upper and ground to the bottom of the frame?
 
No worries! What about your upper and ground to the bottom of the frame?

Sorry forgot to measure the upper link, can do that one later. Here is an older pic of ground-to-frame measurement. This was when I first finished the 3-link. Can't get a current measurement as I have to let the air out of my tires to fit in the garage.

mfQbce6h.jpg
 
Awesome, thanks!! I'm going to plug your numbers into the calculator and see what I get, I'm figuring your 80 is the closest in terms of wheelbase/rideheight/tiresize/weight/intended use to what I'm shooting for so your numbers should get be a good baseline to start from. What do you think? Sound logic?
 
Today I finished capping off the passenger side rear quarter panel. Once I finished that I started on the bumper. After lots of back n forth I decided that I would attach a 2x6 plank directly to the body crossmember. So i chopped off the body mounts and shortened the frame even more.

There will be a bushing in between the body and the bumper eventually. And the plank will be tied into the frame rails.

34213104342_3b580ec694_h.jpg


34213104542_28245ecc39_h.jpg


For the sides, I'm thinking of the same 2x6 attached to the main bumper then trimmed at an angle.

34240734671_e61c0542d9_h.jpg
 
Not quite sure what youre saying... a 2x6 attached directly to the body crossmember and tied into the frame? But bushings between the plank and the body? Wat
 
so you are making a new body mount that is also a rear bar?
 

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