Im still using the wishbone and too lazy to make anotherDamn him and damn you because I wanted that! Maybe this is because I wouldn't take his sway bar?
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Im still using the wishbone and too lazy to make anotherDamn him and damn you because I wanted that! Maybe this is because I wouldn't take his sway bar?
Im still using the wishbone and too lazy to make another
When i do hit my rear frame rails i am never hung up on them. Imo theres no reason to optimize that area further
I just finished the complete disassembly of an 80 with a March 1994 production date and it had the crash bar.I think the crash bar started in 95
I think it's time for the "BOB".
I know you've resisted it for years, but that's what you're REALLY talking about here.
Shorten/remove the rear windows and move the tailgate forward 18" so the rear tires are actually exposed beyond the plane of the rear of the body. That way your exit angle is 90°.
Do the same on the front and move the radiator to the top of the hood.
I think by the time we're done here, most would call it a............Truggy........
@jcardona1 what prep doc you do to paint the headlights and bumper ?
Here is what I do when painting any surface with spray paint:
- If the surface has been previously painted/finished or has rust, I will sand/scuff the surface to give the paint something to adhere to.
- If surface is bare and has no paint or coating, I will use primer.
- For plastics, I will use an adhesion promoter after the primer if it is something that will get lots of abuse.
- Paint with multiple heavy coats, about 10min apart. I am partial to Rustoleum paint, rarely use anything else.
- If it's something that will get lots of abuse, I will apply clear coat. Clear coat must be applied within 10min of the final paint coat. Otherwise you need to wait about 2 days for the paint to cure. If you apply after the paint has dried but before it has cured, the clear coat will react with the paint and will cause it to crinkle up.
- Paint and clear coat will be fresh for several days so be careful with it. Over the next few weeks it will harden and become pretty durable.
I've done pretty much the same thing on all my parts. The only difference is adding clear to make it more durable.Here is what I do when painting any surface with spray paint:
- If the surface has been previously painted/finished or has rust, I will sand/scuff the surface to give the paint something to adhere to.
- If surface is bare and has no paint or coating, I will use primer.
- For plastics, I will use an adhesion promoter after the primer if it is something that will get lots of abuse.
- Paint with multiple heavy coats, about 10min apart. I am partial to Rustoleum paint, rarely use anything else.
- If it's something that will get lots of abuse, I will apply clear coat. Clear coat must be applied within 10min of the final paint coat. Otherwise you need to wait about 2 days for the paint to cure. If you apply after the paint has dried but before it has cured, the clear coat will react with the paint and will cause it to crinkle up.
- Paint and clear coat will be fresh for several days so be careful with it. Over the next few weeks it will harden and become pretty durable.
Jose, don't know if you have them posted already, I searched through here and couldn't find them, but can you post up length measurements of your front links and panhard? And what is your current ground-to-frame measurement? Those would be awesome if it's not too much trouble.
Bump...
Sorry was out of town for work, just got home last night so I could take measurements. Figures are bolt center-to-bolt center.
Lower links: 34.5"
Panhard: 35.5"
No worries! What about your upper and ground to the bottom of the frame?