Engine Rebuilding options for S/C

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Cruiserdrew said:
You should have paid for the pretest

That's painful but also strange. You must have done something really bad in your life to deserve this.

If the EGR isn't opening, the EGR temp sensor should set off your engine light. Is the engine light on?

How far advanced is the timing? Could incorrect timing be the casue of your "lag"?
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Yeah I was a messed up kid growing up so I think I'm still paying for it :bang:

I didn't pay for any of it. Part of the issue is I need to drive for like 20 or so miles for the computer to even start reading. So that's what I'm doing now.

Since the modulator was just changed and the timing back to 3deg, this thing is a complete and utter dog off the line. It takes about 8-10 seconds and near flooring it before the truck starts moving. I'm posting a YouTube video of it now.
 
Well duh!!!

The issue was that the computer was disconnected for two months :flipoff:

While I was driving around trying to figure out what the hell was wrong, the CEL came on and the problem went away. The computer had to relearn and once it did it readjusted the fuel delivery. Of course now I have a PO125 but it's progress!!!
 
So the whole issue, turns out, was dirty (really dirty) MAF sensor wires. Cleaned those out and all the check engine lights went away. No joke.

At the Smog place right now. Third time is the charm?
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landtank said:
from the look of it a previous issue is still around.:frown:

I encourage customers who do extensive engine work to replace the engine harness. Considering most of the work of removing it is already done it's just the cost of the harness at that point and they are known to fail.
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Looking back, now that I'm driving it, I'm wishing I did. I still may. It really doesn't look that difficult to replace.

BTW, the engine management guru at Richard's suggested NOT to put the sleeve in the MAF because it now more closely matches the opening of the bored-out throttle body.

Thoughts?
 
NLXTACY said:
Looking back, now that I'm driving it, I'm wishing I did. I still may. It really doesn't look that difficult to replace.

BTW, the engine management guru at Richard's suggested NOT to put the sleeve in the MAF because it now more closely matches the opening of the bored-out throttle body.

Thoughts?
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I'm thinking that a sleeved (GENII) MAF is a better choice but wouldn't mind any input from Richard's guy.

I'll PM you.
 
landtank said:
I'm thinking that a sleeved (GENII) MAF is a better choice but wouldn't mind any input from Richard's guy.
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It still may be the better choice.

When he saw the bored/honed throttle body he was very concerned because he said the MAF isn't ported to match the TB. I mentioned I had an aftermarket MAF and upgraded sensor but needed to add the sleeve in order to get things back to being happier. I brought the sleeve in with me. He measured the TB and the MAF (without the sleeve) and said its closer to being matched now then with adding the sleeve. He brought up a nightmare Ford Ranger. It was in a front end collision and needed among other things a new airbox. The Ranger one was out of stock but they had an Explorer one that was bolt on. Nothing but problems. The issue was traced down to the airbox outlet was narrower by 6mm and that was enough to throw off the air/fuel mixture. Whether or not that has any relevance to the Landcruiser, I have no clue. But the idea is sound.

So for now...I'm not going to run the sleeve AND I put that small run of vacuum hose back, I will report back.
 
it's the same for LC as it is for that ford. The sleeve causes a slight increase in the output voltage of the MAF so it matches a stock unit. That is why with the sleeve you leave the vac line on the fuel pressure regulator.

I would run the MAF with the sleeve if you are going to have the FPR vac line attached.
 
Spike Strip said:
Awwwwwright! Two-years parole !
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Not sure that's true in California. I've never failed a smog test, but I've been told that if you fail you get bumped into the must-test-every-year category. Maybe that's only if your vehicle is beyond a certain age though.
 
TrickyT said:
Not sure that's true in California. I've never failed a smog test, but I've been told that if you fail you get bumped into the must-test-every-year category. Maybe that's only if your vehicle is beyond a certain age though.
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Only if it qualified as a "gross polluter" but from what I've seen that doesn't exist anymore.
 
The original owner failed (miserably) the first smog and was labeled a gross polluter. EGR was replaced and passed the retest with flying colors.

The truck is still considered a gross polluter and must go to a "test only" (every other year) for the rest of its life. From what I understand it is virtually impossible to remove that demon. Stupid DMV.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
boydmick said:
The original owner failed (miserably) the first smog and was labeled a gross polluter. EGR was replaced and passed the retest with flying colors.

The truck is still considered a gross polluter and must go to a "test only" (every other year) for the rest of its life. From what I understand it is virtually impossible to remove that demon. Stupid DMV.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
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Wouldn't you have to test it every two years anyway? John
 
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