Early fj steering wheel restoration (1 Viewer)

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I have Cerakoted most all of the removable parts on my Land Cruiser including the engine, I build firearms and have a large curing oven so most all my parts are heat cured. The heat cure is more durable and in my experience would be the best long term solution for the top coat if you can get the shade of black you’re looking for. For plastic parts we cure at 150° for three hours then it can be put right into service, if your plan is to only do steering wheels I would build a simple wooden box oven with a PID controller and top coat with heat cure.
Thanks a lot, I talked to the cerakote company and they recommend the H (?) series air cure for the UV and thermal properties. It has been working good so far but I have a few practice wheels I am going to try the oven cure on. Thanks again!
Jimmy
 
I have Cerakoted most all of the removable parts on my Land Cruiser including the engine, I build firearms and have a large curing oven so most all my parts are heat cured. The heat cure is more durable and in my experience would be the best long term solution for the top coat if you can get the shade of black you’re looking for. For plastic parts we cure at 150° for three hours then it can be put right into service, if your plan is to only do steering wheels I would build a simple wooden box oven with a PID controller and top coat with heat cure.
Is there any place with EZ oven plans?
 
Thanks a lot, I talked to the cerakote company and they recommend the H (?) series air cure for the UV and thermal properties. It has been working good so far but I have a few practice wheels I am going to try the oven cure on. Thanks again!
Jimmy


The H series is heat cure and the most durable, it is somewhat less UV stable than the air cure but my exterior parts that are coated with the H series coating like my grill and bumpers are holding up extremely well. The interior parts like my dash look just as good today as the day I painted them and get handled almost daily.






Is there any place with EZ oven plans?

I’ll see if I can dig up some plans for you in the next day or two.
 
If you have the space you can get an old house oven and add a PID controller and that would work well for your needs for not much money.

PID controller, Complete Package (PID Temperature Controller Thermocouple Probe SSR Relay 40A Heatsink) for Kiln Paragon Pottery Glass Annealing


Similar controller from amazon, $45.00 if you buy all three items needed at the bottom of this page. Lightobject ETC-JLD612-DC Dual Display Fahrenheit and Celsius PID Temperature Controller, DC 12V-30V: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
 
Latest wheel.

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Amazing what you can do with such damaged wheels!
Thanks, I'm still learning and experimenting w/ what works best.
 
Are you any closer to trying the oven method. I'm daydreaming that it may net a smoother finish.
 
Are you any closer to trying the oven method. I'm daydreaming that it may net a smoother finish.
Yeah I have it now to where they are very smooth and I cut & polish then now, which gives it a smooth finish. Yours was my first practice wheel and I have learned a lot since then. I will gladly fix yours now that I know a little more.
 
Are you any closer to trying the oven method. I'm daydreaming that it may net a smoother finish.
And did you ever find out if you have runningvboards? If you ha e those parts we talked about, send the wheel and I'll fix it for you.
 
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And did you ever find out if you have runningvboards? If you ha e those parts we talked about, send the wheel and I'll fix it for you.

I have a note to look tomorrow.
 
Just read through this...I've got hundreds of hours using cerakote. Regarding the black color... I would recommend "armor black" as it's a much richer, darker black than the graphite black.

Regarding the oven.... just wait till your wife leaves to go shopping and use the oven in the house. The key to doing this is to let it air dry so all the moisture airs out before you bake it. Shhhh. She never has to know!

Cerakote can be VERY sensitive when spraying... make sure your using a .8mm tip, and make sure your using either 80 or 100 grit garnet sand for the blasting. If you use something coarser, it will puddle and run.

If it's feels dry after you cure it, it's cause you were "dry spraying" it. Reduce the air pressure. Mad or use some scotch brite to knock it down.


Pm me with and cerakote question.... we use it on all our rifles we make.
 
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Just read through this...I've got hundreds of hours using cerakote. Regarding the black color... I would recommend "armor black" as it's a much richer, darker black than the graphite black.

Regarding the oven.... just wait till your wife leaves to go shopping and use the oven in the house. They key to doing this is to let it air dry so all the moisture airs out before you bake it. Shhhh. She never has to know!

Cerakote can be VERY sensitive when spraying... make sure your using a .8mm tip, and make sure your using either 80 or 100 grit garnet sand for the blasting. If you use something coarser, it will puddle and run.

If it's feels dry after you cure it, it's cause you were "dry spraying" it. Reduce the air pressure. Mad or use some scotch brite to knock it down.


Pm me with and cerakote question.... we use it on all our rifles we make.


PS... if you want to try a 77' wheel I'm your huckleberry
 
PS... if you want to try a 77' wheel I'm your huckleberry
I have been trying to find a later model steering wheel, PM and we'll set it up.
 
The only problem with epoxy is the hardness difference at sanding.
Epoxy is much harder than the steering wheel so when you sand it and you not very precise you may sand the wheel more than the epoxy filling.
My best result is to cut the cracks wider and fill with epoxy and scrape off any excess so you have pronounced repair areas to than easyer to sand them.
The other way is best at hair cracks, I just wipe it with marine tex and wipe off without sanding. It makes a terrible mess however on my table and hands and clothes and everything..

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The only problem with epoxy is the hardness difference at sanding.
Epoxy is much harder than the steering wheel so when you sand it and you not very precise you may sand the wheel more than the epoxy filling.
My best result is to cut the cracks wider and fill with epoxy and scrape off any excess so you have pronounced repair areas to than easyer to sand them.
The other way is best at hair cracks, I just wipe it with marine tex and wipe off without sanding. It makes a terrible mess however on my table and hands and clothes and everything..

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PC-7 seems to have a good hardness w/ the steering wheel and I can use it to form places that have broken off and it's strong enough that it will last.
 

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