You sure you don't have a broken motor mount or missing exhaust hanger? That's kind of an odd place for them to crack - most just crack right around the flange where it bolts to the head.
You sure you don't have a broken motor mount or missing exhaust hanger? That's kind of an odd place for them to crack - most just crack right around the flange where it bolts to the head.
I'm not sure about motor mounts, but I did get new isolators and a transmission mount to install. I did have a broken exhaust hanger on the passenger side, but now I need to investigate driver side. I feel like the passenger side has the longer run from engine to first hanger, but the driver side has a hanger upstream of the y pipe, as I recall. But yeah, sure does seem like a lot of bad luck on my end.
Met friends for a Beef basin camping trip (just outside of Canyonlands Needles district) from 10/14-16 last weekend and my driver's side manifold gave up the ghost about 10 minutes off hwy 211 (on the cottonwood canyon/beef basin rd!!
The issues has been forced!!!
Got home from that trip and started pulling heat shields but couldn't get the driver cat out, not enough wiggle room with driveline in place.
Idled over to buddy's house Sunday with plans for wrenching this week...
2 hrs of wrenching Tuesday morning.
Agreed, amazing they all stayed in the head! Must be that arid Utah climate. Also agree that the DS is by far the hardest. I spent a lot of time laying the exact same spot you took that picture from .
As a FYI, I was unable to re-install one of the header flange nuts per side due to interference with the motor mounts. Out of frustration I just put my LT's on with 7 nuts per side, and used Fel-Pro manifold gaskets (multi-layer stainless steel, made in Japan, and identical to OEM - don't use the provided DT gaskets as they kind of suck). I re-torqued the nuts after a couple of weeks and have had zero leaks since, as verified by soapy water spray bottle and shop vac pressurizing the tailpipe. So don't sweat it if there is one that is a nut on each side that is just impossible to get.
At that point I was 3 days in and had already spent hundreds of dollars in unplanned tools to get the old nuts/studs out, taken up much of my wife's weekend in having her help me hold up the 24" long string of extensions/joints while I torqued it down, and more or less gave up on getting it done perfectly .
If I were to do it again....motor mounts would have been taken off right after the OEM manifolds came out. I wasn't about to pull the other 6 nuts per side back out, pull the headers out, and then remove the motor mount.
Worst wrenching job ever but I'm still loving the power gains.
Another several hours tonight.
Passenger manifold off and still haven't lifted the engine off the motor mounts!
Having the driver cat out of the way was AWESOME! I'd say just cut them off to work on getting the manifolds out! Had to disconnect driveline for the driver cat's removal, but easy.
I retained all studs (only 3 years old anyway) in passenger side too, so winning there!
WD40!!!!
Also, got the prado tails done! We chased a gremlin which prevented turns and reverse from illuminating but hazards, tails and brakes did, that gremlin ended up being ig1 no2 fuse.
With my tire carrier covering my reverse lights, I really need to finish wiring in my Prado reverse lights. I'm sure it would be done if it didn't require pulling out my fridge and drawers to access the wires!
Discoveries.
Fit and finish is different right from left. I imagine different hands were at work in this batch and would prefer the passenger craftsman for both headers...
Rails have different end lengths
pass:
Driver:
That extended rail bit on the driver's side may be interfering with a hard line from power steering plumbing...
Progress was made. Cats removed and shields trimmed.
Driver top removed and trimmed back to spec.