DIY Electric Power Steering

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Rivalduke said:
Been following this thread with interest. I am doing a DIY system but fitting the eps unit the engine side of the firewall ( there is just enough room ) . I will try and get some pics up the next week or so.
Modified column / modified bulkhead flange / modified steering coupler .
Looks stock from the cab side.

Cheers Andrew
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I've been curious about that option when someone asked earlier. Was Ken (or anyone) able to confirm that the heat from the manifolds wouldn't be detrimental to the EPS unit? Do you have a carb cooling fan competing for space? I think it would fit regardless.
 
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I have a question on this whole process in general. What are the limitations of these systems? I ask as my father in law has a 72 International Loadstar 1700. It is a single axle dumptruck, an old Colorado DOT truck actually, has about a 10 foot blade on the front, 2WD. Moving down the road, or if the snowplow is off it steers pretty well. But in tight quarters, trying to maneuver, especially while plowing it about pulls your shoulder right out of the socket. Everyone that has ever had to plow with it through the years has thrown a rib out trying to armstrong the damn thing.

Finding the proper power steering box for it and such is difficult. I looked at some inline hydraulic solutions, similar to the electric motor of these systems. I'm wondering if a cheap ebay eps system would give the needed assist to make this truck easier to use. Don't want to spend a lot on it, it is just a farm truck, but it would be nice to have some steering assist.

It uses a manual box and linkage setup similar to the early Toyota pickups. Of course everything is bigger, but the steering shaft is your typical diameter and setup. I would think the mechanical advantage is in the steering box itself, so if these electric systems provide assist to the torque you apply at the wheel, does it matter what size tire you are moving. If a person can move it manually, I would think these could assist just about any mechanical steering box.

Any thoughts on the limitations of these systems in these types of applications. Sounds like the results people are getting on 40's is promising, and actually in certain situations, I bet I didn't apply much more force to turn the wheel of a 40 as you do to turn this dump truck.
 
I suggest you direct your question to Ken at epowersteering.com. These are used on a bunch of different rigs so I'd wager he has the answer you are looking for. Nice guy.
 
MoCoNative said:
I have a question on this whole process in general. What are the limitations of these systems? I ask as my father in law has a 72 International Loadstar 1700. It is a single axle dumptruck, an old Colorado DOT truck actually, has about a 10 foot blade on the front, 2WD. Moving down the road, or if the snowplow is off it steers pretty well. But in tight quarters, trying to maneuver, especially while plowing it about pulls your shoulder right out of the socket. Everyone that has ever had to plow with it through the years has thrown a rib out trying to armstrong the damn thing.

Finding the proper power steering box for it and such is difficult. I looked at some inline hydraulic solutions, similar to the electric motor of these systems. I'm wondering if a cheap ebay eps system would give the needed assist to make this truck easier to use. Don't want to spend a lot on it, it is just a farm truck, but it would be nice to have some steering assist.

It uses a manual box and linkage setup similar to the early Toyota pickups. Of course everything is bigger, but the steering shaft is your typical diameter and setup. I would think the mechanical advantage is in the steering box itself, so if these electric systems provide assist to the torque you apply at the wheel, does it matter what size tire you are moving. If a person can move it manually, I would think these could assist just about any mechanical steering box.

Any thoughts on the limitations of these systems in these types of applications. Sounds like the results people are getting on 40's is promising, and actually in certain situations, I bet I didn't apply much more force to turn the wheel of a 40 as you do to turn this dump truck.
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It does matter what tire size, that is the limiting factor really, the EPS I have been told is best for up to 33 inch tires, above that you are going to want saginaw / hydraulic power....
 
I have no idea what the upper limit is - I think it's likely speculation vs. actual proven results that 33" tires are the max. I have 31"s and am using only about 30% of the boost. You will likely run into other limiting factors with the steering/suspension/body with large tires vs. maxing out the EPS.
 
x463 said:
I have no idea what the upper limit is - I think it's likely speculation vs. actual proven results that 33" tires are the max. I have 31"s and am using only about 30% of the boost. You will likely run into other limiting factors with the steering/suspension/body with large tires vs. maxing out the EPS.
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On the road you are correct you could run bigger tires. But off road over rocks and such I see 33" being the max. Could certainly try it with 35"s. It's a 600 gamble.
 
x463 said:
I've been curious about that option when someone asked earlier. Was Ken (or anyone) able to confirm that the heat from the manifolds wouldn't be detrimental to the EPS unit? Do you have a carb cooling fan competing for space? I think it would fit regardless.
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Should have clarified. Rhd vehicle here in Aus. No manifold heat issue.
 
Finished my steering column parts up yesterday. It's going into a 77'fj40 that appears to be all stock in this area.

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Did you weld the spline on the steering wheel side of the eps unit?
 
Why was that necessary?
 
myquestoyota said:
Why was that necessary?
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In order to adapt the original steering shaft to the steering box, a splined fitting is necessary. The kit comes with a slip (slips into steering shaft) to spline, which the spline goes onto the provided spline parts that are welded to the input shaft of the Psc after you chop it down.

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step 1: chop off input shaft on PSC box at the end of the splines
step 2: insert part #2 into the remainder of the input shaft you just shortened.
step 3: Weld part #2 to the input shaft of psc
Step 4: Slide #3 over part #2 in the correct orientation (tapered end out). Weld on part #3 over the top of part #2
step 5: weld part #4 on #6 at the correct length
step 6: now that part #6 has a female spline on it, you can slide part #6/#4 (welded together) onto part #3 as it will be welded to part #2, which is welded onto the PSC!


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Mine looks like this out of the box.

eps out of the box.webp
 
Looks like you got your EPS box from epowersteering. It already has the correct spline installed.
Just cut your shafts and column, weld them and you are set.
 
That's what I'm thinking. Just need to take the plunge now, thanks for the measurements.
:steer:
 
I welded the pin (2) and the upper splined connection (3) in one shot. Left a little gap between the new splined connection (2/3) on the EPS side of the cut upper shaft and TIG'd both at the same time. I then TIG'd the top of the splined connection (3) to the pin (2) filling in the depression. (If I did another one - I'd buy the EPS from Ken at ePowerSteering with this already done. Units are also tested and grease has been changed vs. an eBay or junkyard gamble.)

Your upper shaft to the steering wheel doesn't look like mine. I don't have that bulb or flare-out. Is that a different year thing? If so....might be a warning to others that there are variations in steering shafts and don't rely on other's measurements without double checking fit in your truck!!
 
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