I don't think you will have any problem.
I have driven mine with Pac boots and Muck style rubber boots, size 10 with no issues. The unit looks like it is a lot closer to the usable pedal area than it really is.
DIY Electric Power Steering
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I don't think you will have any problem.
I have driven mine with Pac boots and Muck style rubber boots, size 10 with no issues. The unit looks like it is a lot closer to the usable pedal area than it really is.
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Not possible. There is no reduction of foot space.
TCEd
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I really need to get this done, my worn out body and parallel parking don't match up well.
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Wow - over 4 years since I did this project. Still works great and never an issue.
TCEd
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I like seeing your reply, it seems few have done the conversion and with little reliability discussion. Ed
Doing this mod today, my PS box hits the brake pedal, did anyone else have this issue? I have some adjustment in it to push it back but it might not be enough. I thought about taking the pedal out and shaving it down a little to get the clearance I need.
I had to shave the brake pedal a little. It can be done with a grinder with a flap sander disk without removing the pedal.
It doesn't need much. I just notched it about a 1/4 in deep where it hit the top of the motor.
Thanks! I got it mostly mocked up yesterday, waiting on the mail for the last items I need to finish it up.
BEST MOD EVER!!! What a difference driving it is now. Not sure why I waited 11 years to add power steering.
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hahaha... that's the best!
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Important update - I had a problem w/ the lower coupler I sourced. As you can see - the engagement w/ the coupler and lower end of the EPS unit was very poor. My fault for not noticing at the time. This summer I started noticing a click in the steering in really tight turns in/out of the garage. I think that was the splines skipping. My solution - just welded it solid. If anyone used the same coupler I did - DOUBLE CHECK!!!!
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Any recommendations on how to measure how far to place the motor away from the firewall, and also at what angle to prevent issues with the fuse box or other obstructions? This seems to be the biggest challenge.
Show some pics, what steering box are you working with? I measured from the steering wheel end to the dash and kept that the same, along with the total length of the inner column.
I have a 1976. I haven’t pulled the steering yet, just doing some planning. I will probably get a Prius electric steering box from a friend. I’m just wondering how you make sure your placement of the motor is far enough away from the clutch pedal but also not obstructing anything. Just hold it in position and take measurements? Eye-ball the angle of the motor?
Honestly- if you haven’t bought anything yet the City Racer kit will put you a lot farther ahead. It’s spendy but so much quicker and such a better end result than piecing it together.
Yea, the City Racer kit looks seamless. Here’s my starting point: I have an extra steering column, a Prius box with controller for $150, and the entire winter season. My welding skills are ok. Measurements just seem tricky with this.
Work backwards from the steering wheel. Make that measurement the same, then get the e motor up as close to the dash as you can. You’ll probably have to clearance the brake pedal arm. Then make the entire inner column the same length as it was. You’ll have to play around with order of operations for assembly but dont send anything home till you are certain it’s what you want. I had 2 inner columns that I was working with to make sure they were the same length on a 71. Your later outer colkmn sleeve should stay the same length as well from the dash to the firewall but you’ll probably have to go back into the truck in pieces.
This is helpful. So, working back from the steering wheel and fitting the motor snug to the dash, could you say that I could assemble and tack that portion first? This way I can determine that the motor is in the right place (as you say, close to the dash and also in clearance to the brake pedal arm). Once this is configured, then measure and test the shaft from the motor to the firewall? And after than of course adopt the column to original length.
Sounds about right- the collar at the top of the motor might cause some issues with the the dash bracket. I also used longer bolts and came in from the top so I could tighten the nuts by hand to speed up assembly/disassembly during mock up. Motor will hang off of those to get a good feeling for what’s next. I probably would not want the motor touching the back side of the dash anywhere. There’s room for everything to work.