Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (2 Viewers)

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A clean H41 is a happy H41 :)

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All ready for tomorrow morning :wrench:
 
Can I get some help with this? I never hooked up my reverse lights when I did the H41 swap and now that I have easy access I want to. This is what I'm working with, the connector on the red/black wire coming off the 3-wire connector goes in my starter, and the splice looks terrible.

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And here's the connector on the transmission that I'll cut and use a Weatherpak replacement.

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Soooo... What do I do? I'm an electrical hack. I want reverse lights and I want to clean that splice up. Help?
 
I'll take a look...can't recall off the top of my head...there ARE pics of these connections in one of those 3fe-manual swap threads....maybe Georgs...
 
The only manual swap thread I've seen with comprhensive wiring information is pismo62's, his is an 88 or 89 and his connectors are different colors, I think the wires are too.
 
Wires are done. This took some reading of old posts and figuring out. I tryed to make it as simple as possible. By doing the re-wiring you are doing 2 things: 1. By-passing the nuetral safety switch,(the truck won't start unless the Nuetral safty switch is by passed). 2 wiring the reverse light.

So, You need to look at the auto tranny on the side. there are 3 connectors; one near the rear and 2 near the front, each has wires that were connected that need to be re-connected. Archtimb had a good write-up on the process. Mine was slightly different I think because i decided to get rid of the connectors, so the wire colors are pre-connector. I decided I wanted less connectors hanging off the harness. I high-lighted in red the differences in wire colors on mine, on the write-up below.


Originally Posted by archtimb
This is for a H55 install.

Near the PS firewall are the electric connectors for your tranny & transfer. The transfer connections stay the same. We are dealing with the two round connectors for the tranny, one white, one blue. (Mine were both grey)

When your A440F is out, you will have an unused connection (on the wire harness) at the tranny for the AT temp. sensor. This connector will plug into the reverse switch connection on your new H55! This contains a yellow/red and a yellow/green wire.

Now comes the magic. You need to open the harness of your tranny connection where the two round connectors are. On the blue connector,(3 wire connector) cut and solder the two heavy gauge wires together (white & black)(Black/white and Black/red). This will jump out your NSS. Now would be a good time to install a NSS kill switch (hint, hint). Place a switch between the white & black and you will be able to select when your starter will work!

The light gauge black wire(blue) in the blue connector (3 wire connector) is one side of your reverse lights. Cut this and solder it to the the yellow/red wire going to the old AT temp sensor.

On the white connector,(2 wire) cut the blue wire and solder this to the yellow/green wire going to the old AT temp sensor.
Cut and cap the red (yellow/blue) wire on the white connector.
Done.


The pictures show:

1. The wire harness plug that connects to the Reverse Switch
2 The connectors and which wires you will use and cut.
3. The wires cut and connected before I closed up the loom and sealed it.
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Last edited: Aug 1, 2010
Guy
__________

KI6LHZ
89- FJ62 Restoration Project
94- 80 Sold
99- 100 Partially Trail Ready


it's all I'm going to have- mine is early 88...
 
Will this work? I guess my question is: Is the Black wire with the Red stripe related to the reverse lights? The full body schematics at the end of the FSM has the reverse lights to the reverse switch on the old automatic using a Black and Red wire, which I'm assuming is this one. It appears different years had different colors.

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on mine- 1987 production 88 model year...- the NSS is just the 2 wires jumped at the 3 wire connector- I jumped them on the trans side of the connector... the third wire goes to one of the reverse switch leads. the other lead from the switch goes to the blue wire of the 2 wire connector...it is a 50/50 chance if the colors are off, but you only stand a chance to illuminate the AT temp light should you get the wrong one...HTH
 
OK I figured it out, my dad is pretty good at electrics so he helped me. basically just need to put the reverse switch between the wire to either ground out of send power to the rear lights.
 
Update:

Engine is in, and running, but not "right". Throwing codes 12, 21 and 53.

Idle-ing around 1350 with the Golden Screw all the way in and the dizzy around 6-8 degrees. Vibrating like crazy and sounds like it's missing. Going to test each spark plug and injector with a noid light. Also engine warms up extremely fast.
Running lean?
 
Also here's some pics from the last few days.

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I'll post a video in a few minutes,
 
Also, I haven't "burped" the coolant system yet, could that contribute to it heating up so fast?
 
Good job man,if you haven't done it don't forget to add Zinc additive to your oil to help the engine proper break in and change it after 500 miles.
 
retorque the head bolts after an hour of running, 150-200 miles and 500 miles...have you gone thru the codes yet? you sure it's a 53 and not a 43? All of those codes are related to wires at or nearby the neutral safety switch wiring....the code 12 is no signal from the distributor circuit or the starter circuit, the code 21 is related to the O2 sensors, and the 53 I can't find, but a 43 is related to the ignition circuit. might double check all those connections to start, then double check ALLLllllll of the grounds.
 
It starts fine, great actually. Just runs really rough, vibrating like crazy, and won't idle below 1250 and I have idle screw ALL the way in.

One of the O2 sensors wasn't plugged in, fixed that but it didn't change anything.

I'm going to check the spark on each cylinder but I think that two of the injectors might be wired backwards.

And I need to burp the cooling system.
 
one of my vacuum caps popped off, haven't fixed yet but I've had enough vacuum leaks to know that this is much more severe. I know one of the cylinders is missing, either form spark of fuel. Going to run the engine and pull of a spark plug wire one at a time to see which cylinder it is.
 

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